show off those ar6400 planes! - Page 230 - RC Groups
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Jan 19, 2013, 11:00 AM
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Terry Rigden's Avatar
I have a Su 26 airframe doing nothing in my loft , it's there because it flies like a heap of junk it tips stalls badly and will snap out of a loop if your not careful. You can have it for the price of the postage but I don't think its wort even that.

I put the gear in a 10" nutball though I think 12" would have been better see :
for plans and instructions you can make it any size you like and it's just about the nicest aeroplane I've flown in a while both indoors and out.
Depending how you set it up it can be a docile trainer or a wild 3D aeobat. And mine cost nothing to make as I used an old pizza plate. Constuction time a couple of hours.

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Jan 19, 2013, 01:15 PM
miatamama's Avatar
Terry, Since you have the 4 channel setup Try the Pie Yak at 12". The pie yaks have obsoleted our nutballs . The nutball is great but try a Pie yak.
The picture is of my design which is a sort of PieYak but with champ gear. It is an awesome flyer, will out turn the pieyak and the stingray. With 4 channel it would be wow. This one is 11"
Jan 19, 2013, 07:24 PM
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BryanEW710's Avatar
Originally Posted by GoAround
Is there any kit that the entire guts of this Trojan would fit into? I want something more aerobatic than the Trojan, ideally.
Check with cpdude. He might be able to laser cut you a Yak-55 if he's still doing it.
Jan 20, 2013, 02:34 AM
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davereap's Avatar
Originally Posted by GoAround
I hope this isn't off topic but I have an ageing and abused PZ T-28UM. This means an AR6400 plus aileron servo (long throw in my case, a replacement of the original) and brushed 1S set up. I also have 5 nice 190mAh Miniaviation 1S batteries.

Is there any kit that the entire guts of this Trojan would fit into? I want something more aerobatic than the Trojan, ideally.

I have found that 40 will buy me all the body and rod parts for a micro Su-26. I'm sure this would be good, even though the elevator and rudder would not quite have the throw of the original. However, this is a lot to spend when you consider any of the parts I put in could give up the ghost very soon.

I would prefer a cheaper solution. Those Donuts models would be great but I have almost no modelling experience and no idea how I would get them working so I probably need something more user friendly.

BRC hobbies has the full dsm2 micro SU BNF at 42 so dont buy your bits part by part, thats an expensive way to do it..

Have a go at a very simple type of model....see the micro piyak type above or a micro size Bug or a micro wing( )
..they only have a few parts to cut and glue... its far cheaper to build like that than to buy a kit
Last edited by davereap; Jan 20, 2013 at 02:46 AM.
Jan 20, 2013, 05:11 AM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
GoAround's Avatar
Terry and Dave, Thanks for the Su-26 advice. I didn't realise they weren't all that great and I certainly didn't realise that you could get the whole thing for 43!!

In that case, I think I will stick with the requirement for the parts to go into something interesting rather than aerobatic. I have an Sbach 3D UM and am about to buy a Beast 3D (now back in the UK!) and a Visionaire for the Club so it is probably daft to want another aerobatic ship. Something very slow flying like the Nutball or a ultra light profile that will do 3D on my very small lawn! Gotta say that wing looks good as well!
Jan 21, 2013, 02:23 AM
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davereap's Avatar
For a whole lot of plans look at this thread of oldtimers... 1000's of plans here .. ..and a lot will be suited for micro electric conversions, especially the small rubber scale and free flight models...

Here is My new micro kite at version-2 for the SU type of setup.. Ive gone lighter on the rods.. and the covering will be the carrier bag material...I am trying to go lighter than my first build for the ar6400 block setups
My first Xmas foil v1 version ended up at 35gms AUW so it was light enough to fly fine, and was just up for a hover on a 5gm brushless and 1 cell micro setup..
The v1 was over strong and would have been better suited for a 10gms and 2 cell setup..
which is what it will eventually get

More general info on building these type of rc kites is over here .. the construction of these micros follows the pattern used by the bigger versions, they are just made smaller, with lighter covering material
Last edited by davereap; Jan 25, 2013 at 12:29 AM.
Jan 22, 2013, 12:36 AM
Registered User
numanair's Avatar
Originally Posted by davereap
I put my gear ito the IFO?BUG and the final AUW was 35gms which with the 5gm brushless gave me just enough thrust to hover... good.. however the motor started to fail to initialize, down to a wire becoming detached.. rewiring it still didn't work.. testing with a meter and I had no power to the esc... so rewired again.. and got power but in testing I shorted out the b***** thing and now the esc signal on the block is dead and the brushless esc on the block is dead...
Its just too easy to short something with these tiny blocks...and up it goes in a puff of smoke..
However the block and servos work so Ive now got to figure a mix that will let me control the brushless esc through the spare servo channel... .. if possible...

On the micro topic for anyone in the uk, these are from ebay and are usefull for parts..
The big twin motor gearbox uses the same motor size as on many of our micro models , the motors can be moved so one or both work a single shaft, giving more or less power as you like
..the tail rotor motors are the same size as used in the tiny linear servos..and on the twin AA planes...
the lipos are 85mA ...
plus there are multi colored LEDs, USB 1 cell charger leads and various other connectors and switches..
I dare say the TX boxes will have some bits in as well .. at the very least they have a charge connection lead plug..edit thats all that was worth salvaging from the tx...
Should be possible with mixing.
Hmmm, I bet you could use those gearboxes for a contra-rotating prop setup.
I'm not sure about the USB chargers. I thought that some of the charging circuitry was in the heli, which means they can't be used for directly charging lipos. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Jan 22, 2013, 04:15 AM
Registered User
davereap's Avatar
The USB chargers that came with the so called "dead" helis have the circuitry in the unit, they will do a direct charge to a single cell... Thats handy, I thought, As the cells salvaged from the helis are 85mA ones, the usb should be ok for small cells , but possibly a bit slow for bigger cells .. its usefull as you can get plugs that take 2 or 4 USB charge leads at a time

As for the burnt out esc on my block, I puzzled it out and got it working using the signal from a spare servo connection on the block, and mixing on my tx ...then later I found there is a thread that tells you how... duh! lol
now also found that onthe futaba the gear switch can be turned off this brought the mix to its full potential and the esc is now working well..

The twin motors could be used for counter rotating, if you can find the appropriate prop..or use the heli props that are already in place. but best is that they can be adjusted so both motors drive the one shaft.. and the one shaft can be shortened...which will fit a model easier..that gives more power to the prop.. their spec is they give 5 mins flying or more on the 85mA cell so they will be better on a a longer flight.. for a prop I will be simply gluing the bottom rotorblades straight ..they will do well...its easy like that
you can also take one motor out if you dont need the power or for lower weight or longer flight times
Have a look for bulk buys of these C*** helis..... all the bits ive got out are working just fine so it was a great purchase for the spares...
Even the cheapest motor gearbox from HK will cost twice the price I paid.. In the UK the cheapest little motor gearbox will cost near half the price of the 10 helis.... so at the next show I will be looking to find some more...

trying for a lighter IFO?BUG but still getting 35gms all up weight.. .the span on this the version-2 is 17"
having a real problem breaking that 35gm weight... I went with lighter rods, but added more of them, then I added wheels.. ..
Never mind next time lighter rods , and no extras rods or un-wanted bits...
However this is over 1sqft so it has a low wing loading and reasonably large control surfaces so it should fly ok..
plastic bag covering is going well...
Been messing setting up the trims etc.. and found out by accident that the batteries can make a vast difference...
Ive got a wide mix and just tried a turnegy 160 20C on it... now have got more than enough power for vertical .. various other batteries have enough power to fly the model but they all fall short of vertical.
I have been looking at my model and being ive redrawn the plan, see the lines, to a version-3 making some mods that will loose weight, improve the looks , straighten pushrod runs, and show the correct elevon size .. the area is now up to 180 sq"

edit after maidening the v2 , which was lovely and slow, I now think the v3 will be slower flying, and that is not what I am after..
I am after a more arerobatic kite, so I will be going back smaller, faster and slimmer..
Last edited by davereap; Jan 25, 2013 at 12:39 AM.
Jan 23, 2013, 11:38 AM
valiantGLX's Avatar

Unrelated question

I know this is unrelated but I come here because I know you guy are pretty switched on when it comes to electronics.

I am trying to instal indicators on my 1:24 SCT, this is what I have so far:

Now the problem is that I need almost full digital trim on my TX to get the lights in a neutral position (off). I tried countering it by moving the servo horn, but then I get too much servo throw in one direction.

I am currently using these resistors: 0,25W 560Ohm resistors [yellow/violet/brown/gold]

Do you guy think I should try using different resistors? If so what would you recommend?

Or would moving the main servo gear (the one that the horn attaches to) a few notches around would help?

Or as a last resort should I try to move the servo pot around?

Again sorry for posting this here, but I think you guys can help.

EDIT: I found the answer, YIPPEE!!!

I was looking around for different resistors when I came across these:

Then I remembered I had some in an unbuilt interval timer kit, so I whacked one in instead of the resistors, and voila!!! It works with my steering trim neutralised


My recent findings raises another question.

What kind of ohm rating trim potentiometer would be recommended for the following lights:

Small SMDs
- Intensity: 100mcd about
- Wave length: 590nm
- Voltage: max. 2.6 V
- Current: about 20mA

3mm LEDs
- Intensity: approximately 9,000 - 10.000mcd
- Voltage: type. 2.8 V - 3.6 V Max
- Current: 20mA type, 30mA Max.

I have found trim potentiometers ranging from 100 to 1,000,000 ohm
Last edited by valiantGLX; Jan 23, 2013 at 01:12 PM.
Jan 23, 2013, 12:10 PM
Registered User
davereap's Avatar
what about old style... a mechanical system for the indicators, with flashing LED's.....using a wiper blade on a board type of setup attached to the stearing servo
Jan 23, 2013, 12:15 PM
valiantGLX's Avatar
Originally Posted by davereap
what about old style... a mechanical system, use a wiper blade on a board type of setup attached to the stearing servo
That would work for sure, but there's no room in these little cars for that kind of shenanigans.

I found a more elegant solution, I edited it into the original post. I just need assistance selecting one with the right ohm rating now

Thanks for the idea though
Jan 23, 2013, 12:29 PM
Registered User
3d astronaut's Avatar
Guys does anyone have any info on how to replace a rudder fet? I can replace the mcpx fets but have no idea where to start on this board and havent been able to find much help.
Jan 23, 2013, 12:42 PM
valiantGLX's Avatar
Originally Posted by 3d astronaut
Guys does anyone have any info on how to replace a rudder fet? I can replace the mcpx fets but have no idea where to start on this board and havent been able to find much help.
You start by desoldering the burnt out FET

FET part #: fdg6322c
Jan 23, 2013, 12:46 PM
Registered User
3d astronaut's Avatar
Originally Posted by valiantGLX
You start by desoldering the burnt out FET

FET part #: fdg6322c
So there are two fets? Sorry I am not familiar with these. The mcpx fets have 3 connections, two on one side, one on the other. Thanks for the pic!
Jan 23, 2013, 01:10 PM
valiantGLX's Avatar
Originally Posted by 3d astronaut
So there are two fets? Sorry I am not familiar with these. The mcpx fets have 3 connections, two on one side, one on the other. Thanks for the pic!
looks like it, I'm not really an expert myself Also it could be a possibility that 1 is good and the other is burnt out, I think, but its probably better to replace them both anyway

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