Nov 24, 2012, 10:46 PM
Power Wheels Guru
UNGN's Avatar
Originally Posted by joker24458 View Post
Maybe not the best place to ask but how do you make a hot wire cutter? Also is is dangerous? Thanks

John255's Super Simple Slicer

Billy Jim's super simple slicer thread
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Nov 25, 2012, 05:21 AM
Andy2No's Avatar
As a refinement on that, if you have an old brushed ESC, a watt meter, or just a multimeter that reads amps, and a servo tester (to control the ESC), you can control and monitor the current going through the wire. I did that mostly to make sure my batteries were okay, but it helps preserve the wire too, and takes some of the guesswork out of it.

The only part that's really worth paying for is the resistance wire or foam cutter wire from a model shop. It's not that expensive, as I recall.

As far as being dangerous, it's really no more dangerous than a soldering iron, though you might damage a battery if you use a small one. Chances are, the wire will burn through first.
Nov 25, 2012, 10:30 AM
Andres Lu
joker24458's Avatar
Thanks for the info guys, really appreciate it......

Nov 25, 2012, 04:55 PM
Pilot, Co-pilot, Navagator
nemoskull's Avatar
joker, you could also use guitar wire, the thinest stuff you can find. stainless steel plain, a busted desktop computer will give you a power supply, but its got breakers on it, draw too much and it shuts down. ultra cheap, but for better results, the nichrome wire and brushed ESC would work better.
30A (in the air, less on the ground) BRUSHED ESC.

edit: anyone every build a biplane twins?
Nov 25, 2012, 09:08 PM
No place like cloud base......
SuperBarlow's Avatar
I've got a better solution for you, joker- a dimmer switch and transformer!

Wire the AC to the dimmer switch, and then to the transformer, and finally to your cutting wire.

It's worked great for me, and I haven't had to go out and buy much.

Here's a link to a picture of the wiring that I found-

Instead of the two yellow, use one yellow wire and one black wire.

Just make sure that you solder the wires together and use heat shrink tubing.
Nov 26, 2012, 02:44 AM
Andy2No's Avatar
Now that does sound a bit dangerous

US AC is a lot safer than ours though. I guess that means you're all a bit more casual with it, and probably get electrocuted more often than we do I've survived 240V AC a couple of times though, but I was younger then. I'm sure that helps. They've lowered it a few volts, more recently - it's only about twice what yours is now.
Nov 26, 2012, 09:23 AM
Registered User
Terry Rigden's Avatar

Surprised to hear the nominal mains voltage has been lowered when did they do that ? any idea why ??

Nov 26, 2012, 09:24 AM
No place like cloud base......
SuperBarlow's Avatar
Actually, If you're careful around it, you'll be perfectly fine. I wouldn't suggest it for those of you with 240V AC, though.
Nov 26, 2012, 12:11 PM
Andy2No's Avatar
Originally Posted by Terry Rigden View Post
Surprised to hear the nominal mains voltage has been lowered when did they do that ? any idea why ??

I don't know when it happened, but it was changed to 230V +/- some margin for error that allowed it to stay at 240V without breaking the rules, to be phased out as equipment was replaced, I guess. It's an EU thing, but the voltage in Europe is 220V (also within the official margin of error), so I don't know why they didn't just go for that. Maybe too many people would have demanded their 20V back. Maybe 220V just didn't quite seem dangerous enough

I agree, SB. Mains electricity is perfectly safe, so long as you don't come into close physical contact with it Ours is just a lot less safe, when you do.
Nov 26, 2012, 12:36 PM
Addicted to building...
Freddie B's Avatar
I was enlightened recently. In the United states I always used 115v as the measured standard, even though the always said 120v. then 240v usually measured 230v. But upon a recent instal someone told me that the new standard would measure almost spot on at 120v, 240v, etc. Tested it and sure enough.

New equipment? I don't know but I grew up and lived most of my life in another State, so could their standard have been different???

Either way I don't like plugging myself into 120v or 240v AC.

Nov 26, 2012, 02:20 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
coriolan's Avatar
Just using the dimmer would be indeed very dangerous, but having a transformer between it and the load remove the risk (as long as everything is well insulated in the primary circuit). Battery+brushed esc+servo driver work fine since we all have plenty of them at hand anyway! Thats what i use for foam cutting with a basic pwm control based on a NE555 driving a Mosfet.
Nov 26, 2012, 04:13 PM
Andres Lu
joker24458's Avatar
Hmmm, interesting stuff if I hooked it up to a 12v power supply, I will still need the ESC? and how do I control the ESC? Thanks

Nov 26, 2012, 04:43 PM
"Unnecessary Necessity"
coriolan's Avatar
Either with an Rx and Tx, or with a servo driver like sold by HK and others. The 12V supply only provide the voltage and current(like a battery would do)but the current trough the wire still need to be controlled to have proper temperature. Too hot will burn the wire and produce a very wide cut,too cold will make for uneven cut (if hot enough to actually cut!). It is more important when trying to cut very thin sheets.
For the DIY type this esc driver is simple and work well:
This circuit doesn't requires an esc at all, it is also simple and to drive a wire cutter you don't need D3 as it is a non inductive load:
Last edited by coriolan; Nov 26, 2012 at 05:03 PM.
Nov 26, 2012, 07:22 PM
valiantGLX's Avatar
Nothing to do with wire foam cutters

I have decided to build another Carbon Cub Panorama, a V2 if you like.

This time I am using only 3mm depron to hopefully half the weight of the original build. Also I have opted to use the the Micro Mosquito electrics again because I have read that by swapping out the motors for Bravo SX motors you get a 28% increase in static thrust. This should bring my total static thrust to 120g, and if all goes to plan my flying weight will be around 110g, it should be a very nice flyer

Also I am using a KFm3 airfoil to generate enormous amounts of lift (I hope). The wing dimensions are 700mm x 140mm which should give me a wing loading of 3.98 oz/sq.ft (12 g/ As far as wing loading goes this will be in the glider category
Nov 26, 2012, 08:35 PM
Andres Lu
joker24458's Avatar
Ok, ya, this hot wire cutter is a bit more complicated than I it would take up a model memory on my transmitter. Anyways, Im gonna save the links and probably/most likely build one when Im older......only 11 at the moment. No really not joking


Oh ya and BTW If any of you guys have Realflight, you might know me as "BOOM"

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