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Old May 25, 2010, 09:45 AM
ta2cba is offline
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AVR Programmer


Hi Guys,

This AVR programmer http://www.mikroe.com/eng/products/view/6/avrprog2/

is very reliable and problem free.I am using it for sometime and find it easy to use. Just a thought.Hope it helps.

Cheers,

BA
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Old May 25, 2010, 09:56 AM
JussiH is offline
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Friend is a 4 letter word...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scorpia View Post
Fast, thats awsome, i was told that europe would probably be 7-10 days, looks like it was 6 including the weekend. AWSOME.

I hope it works for you. some build pics would be great.
I will post photos....shipping time took me by suprise as well...so the last components will arrive in a day or two....But I will probably start build with components from HK401 and XM401....

Am also deep into quadbuild, and the tri needs repair as well - so guess IŽll be burning the midnite oil....
Old May 25, 2010, 10:48 AM
ben123 is offline
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Hello. I'm back from my holiday (during which I got to see the Atlantis space shuttle launch - amazing) and here is my finished but untested board!

The first picture shows the through holes I did. I drilled with a 0.6mm bit, put a piece of wire through, soldered both sides then filed it a little to make it flatter. Alignment was only off about 0.1 - 0.2mm on one plane... lamintor technique really impresses me.

The last 3 pictures are of the completed board: top, bottom and side. I slung in a penny for scale (pretty much the exact same size as a 1 cent coin). I'll weigh it tomorrow I hope as someone said they'd bring their digital scales into work for me

My motors, escs, radio gear also arrived during my holiday so lots of playing around in store for me to see if I can connect it all up!

Ben.
Old May 25, 2010, 12:53 PM
braindead4554 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben123 View Post
Hello. I'm back from my holiday (during which I got to see the Atlantis space shuttle launch - amazing) and here is my finished but untested board!

The first picture shows the through holes I did. I drilled with a 0.6mm bit, put a piece of wire through, soldered both sides then filed it a little to make it flatter. Alignment was only off about 0.1 - 0.2mm on one plane... lamintor technique really impresses me.

The last 3 pictures are of the completed board: top, bottom and side. I slung in a penny for scale (pretty much the exact same size as a 1 cent coin). I'll weigh it tomorrow I hope as someone said they'd bring their digital scales into work for me

My motors, escs, radio gear also arrived during my holiday so lots of playing around in store for me to see if I can connect it all up!

Ben.
Looks like a piece of art!! I rreally like your board layout and how you incorporated the gyros into it. Great work!!
Old May 25, 2010, 01:31 PM
thanhTran is offline
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That tree again!!!!
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Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
Here is the new TriCopter version, It has faster yaw response.
Awesome flying Kaptein!!!
The control and response of your tri-copter is really fast and solid.

I'm building a tri-copter now, hopefully to use your new code soon
One question: the tail arm with servo and motor is a little longer due to the servo & twisting arm assembly, so should I cut the tail arm down a bit to make the tail motor at the same distant from the center of the tri-copter as the other two arms? Or should I just move the battery up to get the CG at the middle?

Thanks

-Thanh
Old May 25, 2010, 01:40 PM
thanhTran is offline
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That tree again!!!!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben123 View Post
Hello. I'm back from my holiday (during which I got to see the Atlantis space shuttle launch - amazing) and here is my finished but untested board!
...
The board looks really great Ben!

Are those pots 2mm in size? I found some 2mm pots from Digikey, they look similar to the one you have there.

I'm building a board X-Y-Z MEMS gyro board (using 2 ST gyros). Hopefully I will then be able to use those gyros with your 2 layer edition. Should make a very small, thin & light board.

-Thanh
Old May 25, 2010, 01:51 PM
kapteinkuk is offline
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Originally Posted by bob4432 View Post
i was looking at that and had a question - do you build an additional board w/ the a socket for the type of chips you are going to program? kind of like a zif socket for a cpu? or are those, i guess possibly a breakout board it could be called, be purchased for the different chips?
Instead of using a ZIF socket, remove the unused pin receptors from a normal socket. Makes it easier to insert and remove chip.
Old May 25, 2010, 01:55 PM
kapteinkuk is offline
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Originally Posted by Scorpia View Post
What "C" rating batteries are you using? I was thinking that 2200Mah wouldnt give enough current to run 4 motors. but i guess a high C rating might work.

Also what ESC are you using?
I use 2200mAh, 20C
Esc is Turnigy Plush 25.
Old May 25, 2010, 02:05 PM
kapteinkuk is offline
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Originally Posted by thanhTran View Post
Awesome flying Kaptein!!!
The control and response of your tri-copter is really fast and solid.

I'm building a tri-copter now, hopefully to use your new code soon
One question: the tail arm with servo and motor is a little longer due to the servo & twisting arm assembly, so should I cut the tail arm down a bit to make the tail motor at the same distant from the center of the tri-copter as the other two arms? Or should I just move the battery up to get the CG at the middle?

Thanks

-Thanh
Thanks

Cut the arm down to get equal distances, and move the battery forward to offset the weight of the servo.
Old May 25, 2010, 03:09 PM
JussiH is offline
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Friend is a 4 letter word...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben123 View Post
Hello. I'm back from my holiday (during which I got to see the Atlantis space shuttle launch - amazing) and here is my finished but untested board!

The first picture shows the through holes I did. I drilled with a 0.6mm bit, put a piece of wire through, soldered both sides then filed it a little to make it flatter. Alignment was only off about 0.1 - 0.2mm on one plane... lamintor technique really impresses me.

The last 3 pictures are of the completed board: top, bottom and side. I slung in a penny for scale (pretty much the exact same size as a 1 cent coin). I'll weigh it tomorrow I hope as someone said they'd bring their digital scales into work for me

My motors, escs, radio gear also arrived during my holiday so lots of playing around in store for me to see if I can connect it all up!

Ben.
That is one nice piece of work!

What is the board dimensions - looks to be way smaller than 50*50 mm....?
Old May 25, 2010, 04:32 PM
Niall is offline
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OK guys here are the pics of the Through Hole PCB.

Old May 25, 2010, 05:59 PM
bob.titus is offline
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Flying at Sochi 2014 Olympics
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very nice, congrats!

Bob
Quote:
Originally Posted by ben123 View Post
Hello. I'm back from my holiday (during which I got to see the Atlantis space shuttle launch - amazing) and here is my finished but untested board!

The first picture shows the through holes I did. I drilled with a 0.6mm bit, put a piece of wire through, soldered both sides then filed it a little to make it flatter. Alignment was only off about 0.1 - 0.2mm on one plane... lamintor technique really impresses me.

The last 3 pictures are of the completed board: top, bottom and side. I slung in a penny for scale (pretty much the exact same size as a 1 cent coin). I'll weigh it tomorrow I hope as someone said they'd bring their digital scales into work for me

My motors, escs, radio gear also arrived during my holiday so lots of playing around in store for me to see if I can connect it all up!

Ben.
Old May 25, 2010, 06:05 PM
Scorpia is offline
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Originally Posted by kapteinkuk View Post
I use 2200mAh, 20C
Esc is Turnigy Plush 25.
Wow, thats good news.

I thought that a 20c wouldnt cut it. So then current draw must be under 10amps per motor under normal flying. very nice.

Peter
Last edited by Scorpia; May 25, 2010 at 06:20 PM.
Old May 25, 2010, 06:11 PM
bob.titus is offline
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Flying at Sochi 2014 Olympics
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I'm using 5000mAh 15C (75A max) on rather large quads (2200g) without any issue.
As long as your max amp draw does not exceed the battery capacity to deliver amps, it's ok.
If you draw 15 amps max per motor, that's a total of 60 amps. With a 4000mAh at 15c you can deliver 15x4A = 60A so you are good. Anything below could be a problem.

FWIW,
Bob
Old May 25, 2010, 07:07 PM
ben123 is offline
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Thanks guys Just hope it works or is easily fixed or else its just a paperweight with an interesting story!

Thanh:

The pots are around 4mm square and are these ones :

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/s...duct&R=177-223

I'll post the final, fully tidied-up Eagle files once I know it works

420RcPilot:
It's about 3.2x3.7cm at the moment but could be smaller with a bit of trimming I think. I wish I'd used thinner copper-board... I see it comes in thinner sheets. But maybe wouldn't help vibrations?

I've been playing around with the tx and rx tonight. The set didn't come with any instructions :s It's the 6 channel Hobbyking 2.4GHz set... it has six channels labelled ch1-ch6 but I'm not sure which channel corresponds with which function so I'm a little confused but I'm sure a little Googling will sort that

I bought some thin carbon fiber plate and hollow 3mm diameter carbon fiber tubes to construct a frame. Will be fun trying to bodge something together that won't rattle itself apart on its maiden flight/crash

I'm going to build this ISP programmer to program my atmega48. Anyone ever used it?

http://www.mytutorialcafe.com/Microc...er%2089S51.htm

Ben


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