Here is a pic of a removed arbor with chuck attached. The arbor is the tapered part and the chuck is screwed on the end. This assembly is what will come out of the drill press but you must apply downward pressure to the back of the chuck somehow to get it out.

Added: I just looked at your diagram you posted and you will have to find out whether your chuck just comes off a taper like you picture or whether it has the tapered arbor on the back of it like I show in the picture.

Originally Posted by thanhTran

Thanks Pug!
The chuck is not screwed in. When I installed it, I just push it in, and tap the nose of the chuck a little and it just stayed there. There was a pdf link I posted last night of that same machine. When I looked into the chuck with a mirror, it's just a flat end of the shaft.

I'm afraid I would break the bearings if I give it a good whack. No???

Thanks

Thanh

Just went trough your parts manual and you appear to have a tapered back chuck not like the one in my pic. You still have to find a way to apply sharp downward pressure on the back of the chuck but the chuck is the only thing that will come off.

One thing you will need to know is the size of Jacobs taper it has. It should be marked on the chuck somewhere 1Jt,2JT,33JT so on. You can also order the wedges to seperate it if you know the size. My catalog list the wedges for about $8 a set.

Jacobs has a page on removal

http://www.jacobschuck.com/drill-chuck-install.asp

now back to the quadcopter

What kind and what size is everyone making there arms out of? Workin on prototype number two

Circuit completed!!!!

Quick question: With the atmega disconnected from the circuit, If I check the + and - of the servo bus I get a small voltage ( cap c7 ) but when I connect the unprogrammed atmega, I get what looks like a short between the pos and neg servo bus terminals. Is this normal?

Servo bus?

You mean that if you number the servo lines as 1 - GND 2- VCC 3-signal, then you measure on the PCB without anything else connected a voltage between VCC and GND (pin 1 and 2)?

That sounds a bit weird, but if you put the meter into continuity-check / diode test, you should measure something between 400 and 1600 mV. Especially if you put in the atmega. Remember: polarity matters!

Your measurement could be explained by some voltage being still on the capacitor (you'd see the voltage slowly decaying), and the atmega using enough current that it drains the capacitor almost completely almost immediately.

Sorry, I meant Gnd and vcc, and that I have the meter in continuity check. The current decays with no atmega connected. Polarity does matter, one way it does not even charge the cap. Before I program the chip and fire the sucker up, are there any critical continuity checks that I can look before connecting power to make sure I don't smoke the chip?

Originally Posted by braindead4554

What kind and what size is everyone making there arms out of? Workin on prototype number two

1.2" square Aluminum Tube.

onlinemetalstore.com

Carbon Fiber Tube (hollow) D6.0×Ф5.0×1m

Originally Posted by DarkHeli

Sorry, I meant Gnd and vcc, and that I have the meter in continuity check. The current decays with no atmega connected. Polarity does matter, one way it does not even charge the cap. Before I program the chip and fire the sucker up, are there any critical continuity checks that I can look before connecting power to make sure I don't smoke the chip?

Just check to make sure you don't power the chip with higher voltage than what says in the spec, and that don't power it in reverse. These chips are pretty resilient. We don't deal with high voltage here, and other chip stuff on board uses same voltage level, so no worry...

Originally Posted by braindead4554

What kind and what size is everyone making there arms out of? Workin on prototype number two

Originally Posted by km28104

1.2" square Aluminum Tube.

onlinemetalstore.com

Looking for a couple more CF golf clubs at stores like Goodwill, Salvation Army and Value Village, I bought two for $8, are they ever strong!

Done!!!
Video:

Zotfidjy: Quadcopter con controladora Kapteinkuk (Araxiñas) (6 min 18 sec)

Thanks!!!!

Originally Posted by zotfidjy

Done!!!
Video:
http://www.vimeo.com/12307035
Thanks!!!!

nice

are you the guy using kite "inter-locks" for the landing gear? could you post some pics of that? looks like a nice skid setup.

Originally Posted by braindead4554

What kind and what size is everyone making there arms out of? Workin on prototype number two

Most recent quad was made with 10mm OD, 8mm ID alu tubing @ 82 grams per meter. Cheap and strong stuff from the local DIY store...

Have also used 10*10 square alu tube @ 90 grams a meter on tricopter.

Hexa will be made with 12 mm HK450 booms (alu) at about 51 grams per meter.

Am also working a MicroTri that will use 6 mm booms from Gaui 200 or 5 mm carbon tubing.

Many people uses Wood. Daddes impressive FPV videos is made with a tricopter with wooden arms, as far as I remember!

Ken, are you serious about the 1.2" square alu tube - it sounds quite heavy to me.....

Originally Posted by km28104

1.2" square Aluminum Tube.

onlinemetalstore.com

Thanks for the information. I am building a quad. Would you recommend the same size tube (1.2") for this? It seems a little big, but I have not built one before.

Thanks!