Originally Posted by cdi3d

Talontsi96 - That is one sweet looking frame! - How was it to put together?

Mike

It needed a bunch of filing on the tabs but it went together quite nice and quick, I'm pretty happy...

Jim, what is a safe way to cut CF Rods? I have some that I purchased but have not used for another project.

Originally Posted by jesolins

RR,
Just trying to share lessons learned from the school of hard knocks... It is the old Air Force Instructor Nav in me
Cheers,
Jim

RR,
Under water Seriously this stuff is nasty on the lungs and body. Cancerous! Use appropriate precautions always! I have heard that Askman of heli camera mount fame succumbed due to health problems from CF dust.
I wear a surgical mask and goggles to protect the air and eye pathway to the vascular system. I also use rubber gloves for the bigger jobs. A vacuum fitted with a hypoallergenic filter is a good precaution too.
Cheers,
Jim

Originally Posted by reverendrichie

Jim, what is a safe way to cut CF Rods? I have some that I purchased but have not used for another project.

Wow, for me, it is not worth the risk.

thank you.

Originally Posted by jesolins

RR,
Under water Seriously this stuff is nasty on the lungs and body. Cancerous! Use appropriate precautions always! I have heard that Askman of heli camera mount fame succumed due to health problems from CF dust.
I wear a surgical mask and goggles to protect the air and eye pathway to the vascular system. I also use rubber gloves for the bigger jobs. A vacuum fitted with a hypoallergenic filter is a good precaution too.
Cheers,
Jim

How does the TGY SK Series 28-30 750Kv compare with the original motor listed. I've noticed several people have made that choice.

very nice! whats the height hold thing you may try with it?

Originally Posted by AZ ChopperCam

started machining the frames for our ultra large Tricopter. 40" radius from center to motor shafts. 18"-22" props (not sure on that yet).

For size reference here are some shots of it next to a Futaba 10C radio and Panasonic HMC150 camera. The camera is about 15" long and is the one we intend to put on this rig if flight tests prove successful.

Will install two motors tomorrow and finish drawing up the yaw bearing assembly for the yaw motor. Planning to use some 25mm I.D. Needle bearings for that mechanism.

Nice work DJ! That red pool table is becoming famous as your picture backdrop.

I'm going to start a new topic for my Ultra Large Tricopter build. It's not entirely relevant in here.... I'll answer all your questions in that thread once I start it, Later today most likely.

Is that an HVX you've got mounted under there? Wow. Don't crash.

Originally Posted by AZ ChopperCam

started machining the frames for our ultra large Tricopter. 40" radius from center to motor shafts. 18"-22" props (not sure on that yet).

For size reference here are some shots of it next to a Futaba 10C radio and Panasonic HMC150 camera. The camera is about 15" long and is the one we intend to put on this rig if flight tests prove successful.

Will install two motors tomorrow and finish drawing up the yaw bearing assembly for the yaw motor. Planning to use some 25mm I.D. Needle bearings for that mechanism.

HK401B arming problem solved


I figured out how to make the Turnigy Push ESC’s work with the HK401B gyro every time. You just put a Dionysus Design glitch reducer between the HK401B and the ESC and it will arm every time. Apparently some gyros don’t output a valid signal when they are powering up that confuses some ESC’s.
http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...products_id/42

But you need three of them and at 10 bucks each, where is the savings over using the Telebee?

Originally Posted by RC Man

HK401B arming problem solved


I figured out how to make the Turnigy Push ESC’s work with the HK401B gyro every time. You just put a Dionysus Design glitch reducer between the HK401B and the ESC and it will arm every time. Apparently some gyros don’t output a valid signal when they are powering up that confuses some ESC’s.
http://www.dionysusdesign.com/produc...products_id/42

Originally Posted by reverendrichie

But you need three of them and at 10 bucks each, where is the savings over using the Telebee?

I do like the HK401B better than the Telebee.

This was mainly for those who already have the HK401 gyros and have to weight until the gyros initialize then plug in the ESC’s. With the Glitch Reducer you just apply power to all and go fly.

The problem with the Telebee is that you can’t fly them in very cold weather. I sure with that they would have spent the extra buck to add a temperature compensation circuit – or perhaps they just use poor quality parts that won’t work reliably in the cold.

Originally Posted by RC Man

I do like the HL401B better than the Telebee.

Give this one a try next time, so far, I have no complains at all.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dy-1017.html

Thanks for the tips lads.

One thing I will mention is the motors that I bought (the ones from the original build) don't come with the nut you need to hold the prop on with GRR!!!

I will have to go out today and get some.

Cheers
-J

Just a quick note about safety with these tricopters, what I noticed is, because we are not using the throttle channel but pitch to simulate throttle, the throttle cut does not function. If you are not aware of this already, what I would suggest is programming a flat 0,0,0,0 pitch curve for the Idle up so when the idle switch is turned on and you accidentally push the throttle, the copter will not spin up.