Originally Posted by stonerscolony

No problem glad I could help.

Looks excellent ican3d, you've all given me the bug to start up a second version of my original nano FPV racing system, I'm borrowing my cousins 3D printer soon with as much filament as I want :P

http://www.fatedev.com/project?p=145...s+and+nano+FPV

I don't want to salvage an existing car cheap or not this time, I'd rather design the entire steering rig myself which shouldn't be too hard but also the drive system. I am thinking about a direct pinion gear to the rear axle from the motor so I can print the pinion gears also but no idea how well this would work.

@ican3d - do you think it's possible to print pinion gears this small which are usable? My 2nd thought is a belt drive to the rear axle (1 single belt from motor to axle), any thoughts of the route to take?

You can actually print pinion gears that small as long the 3d printing resolution is small enough (0.2mm print nozzle or less) and use the right 3d printing filament (Nylon). I manage to print replacement spur and 14 tooth pinion gears for my old airbrush internal gears that broke recently..works great. You'll get bitten by 3d printing bug very soon.
Btw here is 3d utilities to create instant pinion or spur gear which is ready for 3d printing format: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:268787 Hope this helps you to create 3d printed parts especial wornout gears for R/Cs.

I already got bitten some years ago when I was doing 3D models for a friend who seen 3D modelling programs as a big scary monster but loved 3D printing lol. The last design I did for my own is below but looking back now I could refine this massively.

I grabbed a lot of coreless micro motors on ebay last night for a few pound which I plan to use with a servo control board as an ESC again, worked pretty well last time and the size is tiny, only the frequency output can stutter at lower RPM so might keep looking around.

Originally Posted by stonerscolony

I already got bitten some years ago when I was doing 3D models for a friend who seen 3D modelling programs as a big scary monster but loved 3D printing lol. The last design I did for my own is below but looking back now I could refine this massively.

I grabbed a lot of coreless micro motors on ebay last night for a few pound which I plan to use with a servo control board as an ESC again, worked pretty well last time and the size is tiny, only the frequency output can stutter at lower RPM so might keep looking around.

Well don't look back now, since you know how to 3d model then 3d printing will be a golden future for you. More likely you'll be building your own brand of r/c parts, models and stuff. Keep posting your 3d stuff soon.

Free download: 3d printed 1:24 scale vintage TAMIYA NISSAN KING CAB kit for WL-Toys A212 now available.
As promised today i've released the 3d printed vintage TAMIYA NISSAN KING CAB kit for 1:24 scale WL-Toys A212 platform and also compatible to any 1:24 scale truck platform which you can download at my webpage. The kit comes with 2x part truck body and wheels all in *.STL file format, the zip file also contain A4 size decal sheet for to print the decals fit nicely for 1:24 scale. Hope you enjoy 3d print and building have your very own nostalgic classic TAMIYA truck.

Download link: https://www.supermotoxl.com/real-obj...r-wl-toys-a212

Photos:

very cool, nice work

Not done any printing yet as still prototyping. Chassis dimensions are 70 * 30 mm / 1:64 scale with proportional steering. Arch areas are 15mm to allow larger hubs/wheels for better ground clearance (leant the hard way last time on that).

Designed to fit a Turnigy 4.4g 1440 servo with a side tray to house a servo board speed controller and excessive wiring (again learnt its handy to have somewhere to dump additional wiring). Steering has 3.8mm travel in each direction which translates too approx 80 degree at full lock for hair pin corners. Just began on rear section with axle mounts and motor mount - I've never designed gears before so that's where I'm at. The motor does 66k RPM @ 3.7v so thinking a 1:4 ratio or similar, however I am also pondering belt drive (but can't find any elastic bands in this scale) additionally I'm worried belt drive will pick up tons of dirt and clog the drive / burn out the motor.

Open to any input on the design. Once the drive train is designed I can work on a platform cover to house the RX and fit a lipo towards the rear followed by a camera mount and VTX housing area.

edit: Robox estimates 1h 45m fine print time @ 4g for chassis as it stands now

Originally Posted by stonerscolony

Not done any printing yet as still prototyping. Chassis dimensions are 70 * 30 mm / 1:64 scale with proportional steering. Arch areas are 15mm to allow larger hubs/wheels for better ground clearance (leant the hard way last time on that).

Designed to fit a Turnigy 4.4g 1440 servo with a side tray to house a servo board speed controller and excessive wiring (again learnt its handy to have somewhere to dump additional wiring). Steering has 3.8mm travel in each direction which translates too approx 80 degree at full lock for hair pin corners. Just began on rear section with axle mounts and motor mount - I've never designed gears before so that's where I'm at. The motor does 66k RPM @ 3.7v so thinking a 1:4 ratio or similar, however I am also pondering belt drive (but can't find any elastic bands in this scale) additionally I'm worried belt drive will pick up tons of dirt and clog the drive / burn out the motor.

Open to any input on the design. Once the drive train is designed I can work on a platform cover to house the RX and fit a lipo towards the rear followed by a camera mount and VTX housing area.

edit: Robox estimates 1h 45m fine print time @ 4g for chassis as it stands now

Great job on the micro chassis stonerscolony, it reminds me of Kyosho Dnano. Would need high resolution 0.1m 3d printing nozzle to make that fine chassis. I think it should do good with geared mesh than belt drive on tiny build. Else might source some mech parts from mini 4wd.

I have decided on gears but putting off them till I learn how to do them properly. So I cracked on and got the 2nd and 3rd tier complete with motor / axle mount + bracket. Fits a 1S 300mAh lipo sliding in next to RX up front. 3rd tier is down to drivers own FPV gear so not sure what to do there as yet.

Total height from bottom of chassis to 3rd tier is exactly 20.5mm. I'm using a Robox printer with 0.01 head and ABS plastic so should be fine.

Still to do: Gears, wheel hub assembly, wheels, potentially mounts for FPV stuff and a shell

Got the wheel hubs done although them will need some void filling to print, the wheels should be a straight up print as aero-disk wheels aka for now lol

I've accounted for 1.5mm tyre thickness max so best find some low profiles aka elastic bands maybe. Waiting on others to hear what FPV gear they are using to continue mounting points on top plate so I guess I have to either look to do the gears or.. the shell .. hmmmmmm

Nice job, the mid picture looks like ATOMIC mini-z style knuckle steering hub that i used to have.

Well I began playing with the printer, the top chassis is the 1st print on coarse print setting just too see, the servo didn't fit very well and a lot of the mounts didn't turn out that well. Additionally none of the 1mm mounting holes are there at all, I put this down to the print setting.

So I adjust the servo slot area by reducing the rear channel and tried a normal quality print, as you can see the servo fits spot on and the motor mounts etc are all way better. This time you can see a single 1mm hole did turn out ok towards the back for the motor mount cover. A fine print is 1hr 45mins so I'll try that tomorrow.

Any advice on getting holes this small or you think fine print will be able to do it?

Originally Posted by stonerscolony

Any advice on getting holes this small or you think fine print will be able to do it?

Nice print works, btw you should look for small sub micro 3g servo. For super small holes i usually manually dremmel it rather than 3d print.



3d print project replica 1984 TAMIYA GRASSHOPPER
Btw here's my 5th replica TAMIYA project for 1:24 scale: The GRASSHOPPER. It took me about less than 24 hours to 3d model from scratch via Z-modeler. The kit designed for SUBOTECH 4WD platform but unlike the previous 3d print project i tricked out the front wheels to match the 2WD looks on 4WD drivetrains platform. So today i've completed the 3d model works an in another 24 hours later will start to do some 3d printing works. Hopefully i have enough spare ABS filament material to complete the printing since most already wasted on NISSAN KING CAB. Will keep you guys updated.

Photos:

Grass hopper is looking good, should turn out nice, are you doing the whole chassis also?

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After many attempts of trying to get the steering working correctly I gave up on the hubs and the motor cover. After some talks with the rest I decided to go from 1:64 to 1:43 scale (100 * 50mm). It changes my electronics set-up so I'm going up to a 130 size brushed motor (black) with a proper speed controller (orange), 450mAh 2S lipo (blue) with the same 1440A Turnigy servo (grey). The receiver (red) stands on its side but has enough space for other RX types that could be bigger than my own.

I've simplified the steering massively by ditching the steering rack and opting for control rods from servo arm to hubs. The hubs also will be easier to print with no posts but rather a knuckle setup on a pivot bolt. Up front the FPV TX should fit just behind the bumper but we have talked about mounting all the FPV stuff on the shell instead so can switch shell for a regular car over FPV.

The motor mount will be modular from the chassis so I can switch them out easier and save having to reprint the chassis if the motor type changes.

Audley Race Tin
A piece from my childhood, dug up when I went home and now it got full proportional mod.

Originally Posted by Beaver_XT

Audley Race Tin
A piece from my childhood, dug up when I went home and now it got full proportional mod.

The 1:64 car in a can is what I did last with FPV and lights. How does it handle on surfaces not perfectly flat?