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Jan 12, 2010, 06:58 AM
RC = FUN
Putting in a tub and soaking for about a minute or two works awesome. Just make sure you let it get completely dry before pealing. -Tyler
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Jan 12, 2010, 09:01 AM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
Plane: I did both versions paper off. keeps the weight down, and the readifoam is a dream to work with, really nice small cell size. Just use the Awsome spray cleaner to wet the board down, let dry and paper will peel off usually in a single sheet per side. Some guys just wet it down with water, I may try that next.

Bill: I'd like to see how others do this baby. hope you build one!
I first time wet it with 100% alcohol and it worked great. Went to get more foam at the same store and tried. Nothing, it wouldnt come off! i went and got some more foam and some LA's totally awesome cleaner and degreaser and sprayed it on. I am getting it of in huge chuncks almost have the size of the paper.
Jan 12, 2010, 11:29 AM
Registered User
TheTrashMan's Avatar
i tried it with out paper and i thought it would be 2 week
Jan 12, 2010, 03:32 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
You'd be surprised how tough the foam is. It feels floppy in the big full sheet, but once cut down into the parts, and glued into a structure, it's surprisingly strong and tough. The one thing, is to do the doubled leading edge (KFC or KFM5b airfoil) wing structure with LE reinforced by a 1/8 or 3/16 dowel and the wing while flexible, will be plenty strong for flight loads. (hanger rash, well, I dunno....)
Jan 12, 2010, 04:56 PM
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TheTrashMan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
You'd be surprised how tough the foam is. It feels floppy in the big full sheet, but once cut down into the parts, and glued into a structure, it's surprisingly strong and tough. The one thing, is to do the doubled leading edge (KFC or KFM5b airfoil) wing structure with LE reinforced by a 1/8 or 3/16 dowel and the wing while flexible, will be plenty strong for flight loads. (hanger rash, well, I dunno....)
can you give me a pic of how you did the wing air foil and stuff,that stuff kinda confuces me.And can you find a sutable motor/esc at hobbypartz.com,cuz i am getting ready to order from and i would like to get it all at the same time.As a matter of fact i think i can get my battery from there as well,but i dont think i can get the prop from there.
Last edited by TheTrashMan; Jan 12, 2010 at 09:58 PM.
Jan 12, 2010, 05:28 PM
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TheTrashMan's Avatar
i have an xtra sheet of foam i might start cutting tonight!!!!!YAY!!!!
Jan 12, 2010, 09:57 PM
Registered User
TheTrashMan's Avatar
i have all the parts cut out and i will start glueing tomorow(if i figure where everything goes)will hot glue work?also i am a little confuced with the wing step pieces,what do they do?
Jan 12, 2010, 10:03 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
What foam are you using? if you are using Redi board (dollar tree foam) or something like it then loctite no mess stick and seal will work wonders. It will take a while to dry and assemble but will hold like no other and weighs nothing
Jan 12, 2010, 10:16 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Plane: Best is Gorilla Glue, you can get it (the fast cure white stuff) at hardware stores, walmart, Lowes, Home depot, most anywhere wood glue is sold. Hot glue will work for most everything but the wing laminations. I've never tried using hot glue for them.

As far as laminating the wing, you roll the wing over a table edge, or stair step, etc gently to create an airfoil surface Pretty much just curve the forward 40% or so. Then roll the step (the 40% piece that glues to the bottom of the main wing and makes it a KFC wing) Then you lay the main wing on a flat surface, find something that will hold the leading edge in the curl you want for the airfoil, lay the step piece on it and place a board or something that will hold the two together. Do this dry without glue first to insure that they will fit together. Then remove the board, tape the leading edges of the two pieces together, apply gorilla glue to one side, put them back in the "fixture" (on the leading edge part, and put the weight on top to hold position. and let them cure.

I'll take a look at hobbypartz and see what I can find for you.
Jan 12, 2010, 10:42 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Plane: This post has the links to the motor, esc and prop that I used, they work fine. HobbyKing also have batteries, so you can get everything from the same place. I looked at Hobbypartz, and don't think they have anything small enough, (also, found their navigation extremely difficult) Any particular reason why you want to order from them?
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
101: The 2822 is a great motor(even more so at the HK price!) but it's way more than you need for the glider. It'll fly a 42" BluBaby that weighs close to a pound as fast as I ever want, and it'll swing a 10x8gws prop. Check this video for how it will fly: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...t=aileron+wing I bought this motor for my version 3 glider: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...trunner_2300kv (although it's on a 24" BluBaby right now, couldn't resist!)
Guess I should have posted the links for the recommended setup, sorry. But the 2822 will be great on your next plane! The speed control is perfect for the 2822, but you will only need a 10 amper for the 20gm motor: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...ries_8-10A_ESC

The servos will work fine, but you could go as low as the 3.7gm servos (had them on the one I lost and they worked well) Another option is the 5gm Hextronix, they are a bit smaller then the 9gm Hextronix and Turnigy ones. The ones you got will transfer to a larger plane better than the small servos.

The blades and prop hub are a good fit for the 2822, but will look really large on the nose of the plane. it's only 1 by 1 3/8". For the smaller motor, this prop is a good one: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...6mm)_(6pcs/set)
You'll note that the smaller motor comes with a propsaver and a collet type bullet nose mount. Use the propsaver with the dd-6030props.
Unfortunately, same thing goes for the battery, It's a good choice for the 2822, but I don't think it will fit inside the fuse of the glider. You did a great job of picking gear for a 42" bluBaby! Should be your next plane! I would suggest this battery for the glider: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...0C_Lipoly_Pack Or this turnigy one: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s..._20C_Lipo_Pack Looks like both are out of stock, tho. Any battery in the 500 to 800 2s will probably fit in the fuse. 3s packs may be too wide to fit. And you aren't looking for speed, but duration for when you have to search for those thermals.

If you are going to make a version for high start, you will probably want to reinforce the wings more, maybe a larger dowell in the leading edge or for sure a reinforcement at the centerline joint. The high loads on the wings when they are released may fold these. The basic design is an attempt at lightest weight, so there's not a lot of reinforcing anywhere. It'll handle it's own weight even in a crash, but I'm not sure about the forces of a high start. But hey, thats the fun of scratch building, trying something new, and after all it's only foam, the easiest modeling material to repair! Gorilla glue and hot melt are our friends!
Jan 13, 2010, 08:19 AM
Registered User
TheTrashMan's Avatar
i am just getting ready to order from there,thats all.
Jan 13, 2010, 01:02 PM
Registered User
TheTrashMan's Avatar
ok i am going to start on the fuse and i hove a question,how thick should th fuse be in the front?and what is the bulk head for?
Jan 13, 2010, 01:43 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
The fuse bottom is 1" wide, and the monoblock if glued up will come to just under that width. That's why I show adding two pieces of back of a tablet type cardboard to each side of the monobloc. When you glue it up, just lay it on the fuse bottom, and if it is the same width, you're good, if a little shy, then add the cardboard pieces. The idea is to glue the monobloc to the fuse bottom, then you can glue the fuse sides to the bloc/bottom just by applying glue and stacking them up with weight on top to keep them tight. Pins help with alignment.
If you have a piece of the 1" thick pink or blue foam, you can simplify the monobloc as it'll come to the correct thickness. When all glued up, the nose is 1" high and 1 3/8" wide. The fire wall is 1x1, and glues to the monobloc, allowing the glue to expand out the edges onto the fuse sides that make up the extra width (3/16 thickness per side)

The bulkhead is a rectangular piece that goes into the fuse at the trailing edge of the top access hole (that the wing covers) it holds the fuse square, and provides a place for the control wires to go through and be stabilized. I glued it in at the same time as the monobloc/bottom piece to fuse sides. Man this is tough to explain with words. pictures would be much easier, but don't have them.

actually there is a picture! If you look at the picture on the left in post number 4, the bulkhead is the piece of foam just forward of the block of wood sitting inside the fuse. you can just see it. You can see it in the picture on the left too and it also shows at the bottom of the picture in post #3.
Last edited by springer; Jan 13, 2010 at 01:54 PM.
Jan 13, 2010, 02:32 PM
Registered User
TheTrashMan's Avatar
ok thanks......i kinda did that,lol.i should have pics of it up tonight.
Jan 13, 2010, 03:36 PM
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TheTrashMan's Avatar
heres a pic of my finished bird!!!


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