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Dec 31, 2009, 02:24 PM
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TheTrashMan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by springer
101: The 2822 is a great motor(even more so at the HK price!) but it's way more than you need for the glider. It'll fly a 42" BluBaby that weighs close to a pound as fast as I ever want, and it'll swing a 10x8gws prop. Check this video for how it will fly: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...t=aileron+wing I bought this motor for my version 3 glider: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...trunner_2300kv (although it's on a 24" BluBaby right now, couldn't resist!)
Guess I should have posted the links for the recommended setup, sorry. But the 2822 will be great on your next plane! The speed control is perfect for the 2822, but you will only need a 10 amper for the 20gm motor: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...ries_8-10A_ESC

The servos will work fine, but you could go as low as the 3.7gm servos (had them on the one I lost and they worked well) Another option is the 5gm Hextronix, they are a bit smaller then the 9gm Hextronix and Turnigy ones. The ones you got will transfer to a larger plane better than the small servos.

The blades and prop hub are a good fit for the 2822, but will look really large on the nose of the plane. it's only 1 by 1 3/8". For the smaller motor, this prop is a good one: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...6mm)_(6pcs/set)
You'll note that the smaller motor comes with a propsaver and a collet type bullet nose mount. Use the propsaver with the dd-6030props.
Unfortunately, same thing goes for the battery, It's a good choice for the 2822, but I don't think it will fit inside the fuse of the glider. You did a great job of picking gear for a 42" bluBaby! Should be your next plane! I would suggest this battery for the glider: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...0C_Lipoly_Pack Or this turnigy one: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s..._20C_Lipo_Pack Looks like both are out of stock, tho. Any battery in the 500 to 800 2s will probably fit in the fuse. 3s packs may be too wide to fit. And you aren't looking for speed, but duration for when you have to search for those thermals.

If you are going to make a version for high start, you will probably want to reinforce the wings more, maybe a larger dowell in the leading edge or for sure a reinforcement at the centerline joint. The high loads on the wings when they are released may fold these. The basic design is an attempt at lightest weight, so there's not a lot of reinforcing anywhere. It'll handle it's own weight even in a crash, but I'm not sure about the forces of a high start. But hey, thats the fun of scratch building, trying something new, and after all it's only foam, the easiest modeling material to repair! Gorilla glue and hot melt are our friends!
do you have a link to the motor and esc?
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Dec 31, 2009, 02:29 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Two more thoughts: you're right about how inexpensive this plane can be (my recommendations will take that price down even more!), but I'm not sure it will be a really good beginner plane. The long wingspan makes it a little more fragile than a typical trainer like a Trainer1, Blubaby, or Blu Beagle which are profile, short wing and except for the BB pushers (protected prop). But it does fly slow, and has been easy to control for me (except for getting out of that thermal.....)

Second, if you have Bass, that should make a great LE and TE wing reinforcement, light and strong! Just cut it down to about 1/8 to 3/16 square and sand off the corners. Obviously look for straight grain, clear stock to start with.
Dec 31, 2009, 09:30 PM
Out the Window
High Flyin''s Avatar
Springer

I really like the looks of your glider (really like the economy of design)! I am thinking of placing an order with HobbyKing so maybe I will add the motor/prop combination you are recommending for your build. They seem to both be in stock right now!!!

One of your gliders in your video on the first page has a folder prop on it. How does it compare with the solid prop? The folder looks cool, but if it is not a real advantage I would go with the solid as I tend to go through props pretty fast (unexpected contact with the ground with unscheduled landings). I have a bunch of 2s 800-900 batteries, will they be too heavy for your build? Also will Protection Board work for this glider?

Thanks!
Ray
Jan 01, 2010, 01:40 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
High flyin':
The little c20's will pull her up just fine. You could also order one from Don (bz1mcr) at Strongrcmotors.com. His has 3mm shafts vs the 2mm shaft of the HK one I noted - a little stronger.
I think the folder helps streamline the plane in glider mode, but haven't used it enough to really document the benefit. I cobbled the mount from a 2mm shaft prop adapter drilled out to 3mm and didn't get it straight so it wobbles some. The c20 I got from HK has a 2mm shaft and adapter, so should be better. Both the folder and fixed props are 6x3, so performance under power seems about the same. I think the folder would be better in those unscheduled landings though! I have flown mine with a Mystery 900mah 2s pack and a 500mah 3s common sense pack and a 460mah Rhino pack. All pretty much the same performance, as I'm just using motor to get me up high. (the 3s pack is pretty lame, tho) I think a 2s, 800 to 900mah pack is just about right. Just pick the ones that will fit inside the fuse, it's not really roomy.

Should be no problems with pblll, as the fuse top and bottom fit into the sides, so no changes for thickness there, the only thing you would have to revise is the monobloc, as it is a multiple of 3/16" thicknesses, versus the approx. 1/4" thicknesses of the pblll (or just use a solid pinkfoam bloc, I only did the laminated bloc to get it all out of one sheet of readiboard). Will be a little heavier, a little stronger(skin and thickness). The wing and tail will be thicker, but they just sit on the fuse, so extra thicknesses don't hurt.
Jan 01, 2010, 01:43 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Planeflyer, the links are all there in post #30 in blue.
Jan 01, 2010, 10:32 AM
RC = FUN
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...2A_BEC)___BESC

Go with this one instead. The SS have a tendency to not work on 2S batteries. -Tyler
Jan 01, 2010, 11:11 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
interesting comment, Tyler. I went to the HK link and the 10 amp ss does seem to have lots of less than stellar reviews. In my case, I have two of them, only fly them on 2s with C20 motors and haven't had a problem. Once in a while a little stutter at start up, but always starts. Have flown over a thousand ft away from me and no erratic behavior (at least that I can see that far away!). On the other hand for only a couple bucks more one can get an esc that has very good reviews. Bottom line is you want a lightweight esc in the 10-12amp range. (Depends on how cheap one is, I guess, and if I wasn't so cheap, I wouldn't be stripping paper off readiboard, but buying depron or cellfoam88!) 8^)

I generally have found that rough starts go with the motor not the esc. I have two emax2805's and they both are lousy starters, finally had to buy emax esc's to get them to start reliably (it's a bugger when you back off throttle and find you're flying dead stick cause the motor won't power back up!)
Jan 01, 2010, 11:30 AM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Planeflyer: yup, the motor is what I'm using (currently on the 24"BB, but eventually moving to v3 glider) along with the GWS 6030 prop. The prop fits nicely centered on the propsaver that comes with the motor. Depending on your sense of adventure, you can go with the HK 10 amp ss, or the Plush esc. (less risk with the Plush, I'd think, even though I have had good experience with the ss).

Remember, you will need to get connectors for motor to esc and esc to battery as well, if you don't already have some you like to use. I generally use the HK 2mm dia bullet type: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...10_pairs_(20pc) But recently tried the .8mm connectors: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...12_pairs_(24pc) and they seem to work fine for these low amp setups. If you have trouble with tiny parts, you may want to stay with the 2mm, tho. the .8's are miniscule. I use the 2mm connectors in the link on all my brushless motors up to 20amps and never had a problem ('course I don't fly wide open for a full pack either.....)

For the esc to battery, I have been using the jst connectors that mate with the jst's that come on most of the smaller batteries in the 800 to 1000mah range. Once I get over 10 amps, I use Anderson powerpoles - a little wierd and harder to find, versus the more typical Deans, but I like them. No exposed metal that can get shorted out (same with the jst's, of course). Once again, if you don't like tiny solder jobs, you might want to get the pigtail connectors and solder the wires together.
Jan 01, 2010, 01:29 PM
Registered User
Well that kinda sucks. I guess ill have to purchase diffarent equipment for the glider. Ohh well, the bright side ill get two new planes. Ill probobly have to wait a week or two before I can buy a new setup but i plan on working on the plane tonight. What kind of plane do you suggest building out of dollar tree foam with the setup i purchased? I found some 3/16'' plywood slates at wal mart do you think those would be too heavy for the firewall? I was wondering if someone glued two dollar tree pieces together to make a 9mm piece if it would be too heavy for some plans for 9mm epp. What do you think? Well my dad is truck driver and he is coming home tonight. He is a seasoned do it yourselfer when it comes to rc. I plan on picking his brain soon to see what he says. thnx.

Im still going to build the glider its just going to take a little longer.
Jan 01, 2010, 04:28 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Yeah, sorry bout that...
3/16 is pretty thick for a firewall for the glider, but it will work, but did you look around the craft area for any more little bits of wood?

I've lost track of how much you've flown to date, but the 42" BluBaby is a great flyer, and easy build with the monobloc concept. Check on the Blubaby thread, there are several guys who have built them using readiboard. I think there are a few things that you will need to change to accomodate the slightly thinner foam - just ask on that thread. I'd for sure do a KFC wing like the glider for the extra strength unless you opt for the kfm3 which is what's on the current 42" plans, I think.

well, get the glider built up and ready for the gear. The only thing that you might want to wait on is leave the bottom panel of the aft fuselage off til you get the servos and control rods in place. Wait, you got 9gm servos, so you can go ahead and put them in and get it all set except for the motor/esc and battery. Good luck!
Jan 11, 2010, 03:30 PM
Registered User
TheTrashMan's Avatar
r u building it with paper on or off?
Jan 11, 2010, 05:24 PM
In the 20' glider range
anti-gravity's Avatar
Off I would assume
Jan 11, 2010, 05:33 PM
Flying high
billwhit's Avatar
Nice Job! That's one way to eliminate all those extra scraps of foam, definitely no waste there!

I may have to play with this one at some point...when I finish some other projects. I've wanted to try a glider for a while now.
Jan 11, 2010, 10:39 PM
treefinder
springer's Avatar
Thread OP
Plane: I did both versions paper off. keeps the weight down, and the readifoam is a dream to work with, really nice small cell size. Just use the Awsome spray cleaner to wet the board down, let dry and paper will peel off usually in a single sheet per side. Some guys just wet it down with water, I may try that next.

Bill: I'd like to see how others do this baby. hope you build one!


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