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Hi all,
Glad you like the roto-molder design. Very Simple. I got my belts from Stock Drive Products, they have a great selection of all kinds of mechanical bits and pieces. This is the page in the catalog: https://sdp-si.com/eStore/PartDetail...23&GroupID=510 I think if I built another bigger one I'd make the fork a square-Y shape and put bearings at both ends of the rotating cylinder, and have a side opening to put the loaded mold into the "chamber". I would also make the pulley that rotated the cylinder in the long axis a bit smaller than the fixed one. My current one has the pulleys about the same size so there may be a mode where the sloshing isn't totally even. Making the circular motion faster would make the sloshing more even. If someone goes into production on this design, do give me a credit somewhere. Ivor |
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Oops, guess I should have clarified in my previous post. I'm thinking about selling pilots, not rotational casters.
Zach |
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Hi everybody!
I have a problem! Trying to cast My pilots with 2-comp.polyfoam, liquid releaseagent and silicon moulds,... I end up with a sticky mess,...No hard, or smooth surface,.... After a while it shrinks and deforms. Apparently I'm doing something wrong. But what?? I've tried different mixtures of A and B foam, but no joy. Even tried Vaseline as releaseagent. Could it be temperature related? Or to much or lack of humidity? ( is that the right word?) Any help would be much appreciated.....PLEASE!!!!! Regards seejay |
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I haven't cast any pilots with foam but I don't think humidity would effect it much and temperatures shouldn't matter much as long as you don't get close to freezing. It sounds like something is keeping the foam from curing. I'm sure someone will chime in with an answer here in a min. Sorry I can't be of more help. Zach |
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I just thought of something. I was focusing to much on the foam and not on the mold.
Silicone molds need to be cured after they are made. As the silicone dries it produces water and alcohol. These can keep the casting materials from drying when you try to use the mold. I have made a small oven out of a bucket with a light bulb inside that heats the molds to about 150 degrees Fahrenheit. The manufacturer of my silicone recommends I do this for 4 hours to let the alcohol and water evaporate before I use the mold. You can also set the mold in a hot car or even in a plastic bag outside on a warm day. I also think the mold will cure on it's own if you let it set for a few days. read this for more information.http://www.smooth-on.com/faq_display.php?faq_id=14 I had similar results with the feather lite resin I am using when I didn't cure my mold first. Zach |
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Wow! some of you people have amazing talent. It takes a lot of practise to get realistic looking facial features on such a small scale, some of the figures look incredible, not to mention the flight suits and safety gear.
I've made a few attempts, but only got some heads made so far. I used sculpey type clay over a small piece of balled up aluminium foil on a section of wood dowel. ImagesView all Images in thread
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Very nice looking faces. I have been avoiding ears so far. I’m afraid I’ll make the poor guy look like Dumbo. I’ve found for small scale it’s easier to get good detail if I mix some Sculpy Firm in with the Super Sculpy. My hat’s off to anyone who can work with standard Sculpy at that scale.
How did you get in my workshop? Zach |
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Very nice faces! What material you use to sculp it?
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I use a type of oven bake clay called Super Sculpy. For the smaller ones I use a different version called Sculpy Firm mixed with some Super Sculpy.
Check out www.youtube.com for sculpting tutorials. Zach |
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You are right! Nowadays we can find everythinhg on Google and youtube.. I´ll look for the tutorials
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This is my favorite set of videos. She makes it look so easy. http://www.youtube.com/user/creagers...10/xo4COOhPk3k
My rotational casting machine should be running by the end of the day. I need to mount the motor and it will be ready to go. Zach |
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