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Delivery from Hong Kong in 16 days isn't that bad. If you put an item to your wish list you will get notification when stock arrives. Then you have to act quick and you will get your goodies like I did. Robert |
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Hi SkydiverDiver,
There is more on www.Vimeo.com and Youtube. Search for Rotatorus and/or COX. Robert |
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Maybe I missed it but not sure which plane you are going to build first. At any rate your equipment is almost exactally like my Mustang. The only difference is I am using a Flysky 3channel Rx (same as yours just different firmware) and I am using a 5x4.3 prop. Every thing else is the same. Should work out to be a really nice flyer. Here is a quick synopsis of my maiden. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2049 I would guess you should get around 6-7 minutes flying time. Rhino 360 2S is a good choice for battery (what I used) I also tried a Rhino 360 3S and the Mustang is a little rocket, almost uncontrollable at WOT, with almost unlimeted vertical capability. The stock props are 4x2.5 but are built differently than GWS props, more like a Master Airscrew (thinner and pointy on the ends) if you are familiar with those. Post crash inspection revealed what may have caused my crash. Somehow during the build I only used two strips of floppy disk material for the rudder hinges. This allows the rudder to pivot some when going to the extents. The movement is not completely on a vertical axis as it should be, but rather almost like a V-tail (some horizontal movement along the lower portion of the rudder.) I will fix this problem as I repair the crash damage to the nose. |
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IndyMatt I've not had any problems running the 10gr motors on 3S batteries, you just have to be sure you don't over prop them. Maybe a 6x3 at most on 3S. But with that you better be ready, 'cos its gonna scream. As far as prop savers I use this adapter http://lazertoyz.ncweb.net/10Gram.htm the second one down on the right. Fits really nice on the smaller GWS props. I was able to reuse the spinner from the stock Mustang with this adapter, basically just cut out the stock prop, opened the blade openings a bit (to fit my 5x4.3 prop) and enlarged the hole to fit over the adapter mounting shaft. You will need a 1.5mm or 1.27mm allen wrench though (can't remember which it is.) |
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Last edited by Eagle34; Nov 16, 2010 at 03:49 PM.
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Aileron...
Hello all
We're really well on this forum ... I also want to ask your advice ... What types of “aileron” are most effective for the roll axis of cox-warbird without penalizing the flying qualities (during the turn by example )?? Photo 1: Large and wingtip Photo 2: The whole length of the trailing edge and rather late Photo 3: half and half ? (I copied the pictures on this forum) thank you in advance and soon |
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Full length ailerons are the most efficient. You need less deflection for the same roll rate. For a scale look, outboard ones look the most realistic.
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Re cockpit / Correction supply rhodoïd #2275
Correction on leaves rhodoïd it is exactly these sheets here:
Brand: Pavo PVC Coverboard / 200 micron See here: http://www.pavo.eu/product_detail.ph...value=subsub13 For Rotatorus I think the seat of the company is in Holland! PAVO HeadOffice Reggestraat1 5348 LG Oss The Netherlands Tel. +31 412 65 27 27 Fax. +31 412 65 27 65 E-mail: info@pavo.eu soon |
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Pictures as promised...yep, I am going to fill in the holes!
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Thanks everyone for your help! Robert that is a great video and really shows what these birds are capable of when done right.
Eagle again thanks for your help as well! fxb - I remember someone saying that full-length ailerons can lead to tip stall. I am thinking about adding them but will leave about an inche of left of the trailing edge of the wing. |
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P.S. Did you find a replacement ESC? I see therre are some 10A ones available from HK, don't know about the quality though as I haven't used them. |
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Here's an 8 gram ESC @ a real good price from HK :
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=14870 I bought 2 yesterday. g |
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