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Oct 19, 2009, 12:14 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
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Build Log

Building a Jim Wilder


After a long time of thinking about building a new boat and then figuring out what to build and the how to secure the funds to do it. I have a new project!

Thanks to forum member Bob L I was able to obtain a Jim Wilder Tug. I know it's a fairly "simple" kit but having never really done plank on frame builds except for a model of a lifeboat, also put out by Midwest, many many years ago, this will be my first real plank on frame model. Good experience I believe.

I also like the idea that the tug is simple in it allows for alot of variation and detailing. eventually I'll buy the smoking stack from MACK, but there is still time for that. I'll also be asking the forum at large for opinions and help as needed.

Attached is the first pics of the build. The box sitting along side my Happy Hunter, where the finished model will eventually go.

Scott
Last edited by laser110; Oct 21, 2009 at 02:26 PM.
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Oct 19, 2009, 12:57 PM
Registered User
Cool! the JW makes a great boat!

A few that are used in tug and barge events locally have been modified a bit with respect to the rudder (bigger) and power but they make great competition boats!
Oct 20, 2009, 10:08 AM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
Aero,

I may have a few questions for you as I start the build. I must have read through the instructions a half of dozen times so far.

Scott
Oct 20, 2009, 10:54 AM
Registered User
I'll do my best to help! FrankG, Ropanach and Habanaro, among others here know the boat so you are in good hands!
Oct 20, 2009, 04:04 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
I have been reading their posts regularly about the JW. A long time ago I decided the cabin and decks will not be painted and will be varnished, like FrangG's example. Also thinking about copper plating the bottom.

Scott
Oct 20, 2009, 06:21 PM
Registered User
JOHN SCALE BOAT's Avatar
LASER110
I have a couple of suggestion for you to consider before you start the build.
1. shorten the prop shaft and snuff tube to move the motor so it is between the deck openings.
2. increase the size of the rudder
3. replace the lower rudder mount with square brass tube
4. replace motor (I use a mack marine with a master airscrew 3:1 box)
5. with the motor moved this allows the use of a 12v 7ah gel cel or 2x 12v 4.5ah with no balancing issues and mine balanced out centered in the cabin opening with the 4.8v 2ah receiver pack under the rear deck opening.
6. seal the interior of the planks and bulk heads before you install the deck
Oct 20, 2009, 08:21 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
John Scale Boat: Thanks for the tips. The motor one is definately good to know. I was already planning on increasing the rudder size, after reading others have done this.

Replace the lower rudder mount- do you mean the shoe?

No extra funds in the bank right now to replace the motor, I'll use the one that came with the kit and I can always change it later.

Thanks on the sealing tip. I had planned on doing this already.

I had a question about the rub rails and bulwark rails. It says to add these after the hull has been fiberglassed. How did you do this? Were they just sealed with epoxy and placed on the hull? Or this a case where I shouldn't heed the directions, add them to the hull prior to fiberglassing and then fiberglass?

Scott
Oct 21, 2009, 11:46 AM
Registered User
JOHN SCALE BOAT's Avatar
Laser110,
Yes, I ment the rudder shoe. I always use brass, does not need to be made water proof, acts as lower bushing, and will take rough handling better that wood. I screw it into the hull and with countersunk head they become hidden.
As far as the rub rails and bulwark rails go, I almost always use 1/4 fan belts. I use my boats hard and wood is slick and hard to hold paint when rubbing against barges and other items. If you are going to use the wood then I would after the hull is glassed and the bulk of the sanding is done. Then apply the rails and seal them with resin.

I forgot to suggest to make the motor mount removable. I mount flat to the hull a rectangluar piece of 3/16 ply with 4 blind nut one at each corner. Then a corrosponding piece with the motor on it and 4 screws to hold in place. This way I can change motor / gearbox and install a different one to try out different combinations with out disturbing the hull.
Oct 21, 2009, 01:44 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
John Scale Boat: thanks for the tips again. I think I am going to stick to wood for the rubrail etc. I am building the boat as a steam tug and I don't think the rubber will look just right.

Finally some progress. I still don't have a buildboard, this is because the US Mail actually did thier job, and delivered the box waaay before I was expecting it, not giving me time to go out and buy some wood. Once I am done with the board as a buildboard and the strongbacks and completed hull is removed, I'll use the board as the base for the stand. The table I am using is plastic, so I can't use it to hold my strongbacks. Instead, I skipped ahead a step and started putting together the peices that make up the keel.

I also went ahead and traced the shape around frames 3 & 6. These patterns will be cut out and be used to help make a cradle.

Finally, I took some time after punching out the frames to label them and drill a small hole in each one, except Frame 1 & 8. Each hole is 9/64 and was done by carefully twisting the bit by hand, as I was afraid a drill may tear out the wood. The purpose of the holes will be revealed later in the build.

For now here are some pics of my progress to date.

Scott
Oct 21, 2009, 02:04 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by laser110
I had a question about the rub rails and bulwark rails. It says to add these after the hull has been fiberglassed. How did you do this? Were they just sealed with epoxy and placed on the hull? Or this a case where I shouldn't heed the directions, add them to the hull prior to fiberglassing and then fiberglass?
Glassing the hull is a multi-step process (for me anyway)-

Wet out the 'glass, (sand after full cure) apply second coat of resin to fill the 'glass weave...

Attach the rub rails to the hull after sanding and before the second coat is applied. Second coat of resin will seal up the rails. No need to seal the rails before they are attached.

One other note, make sure you are able to seal the rear hatch, to keep it from leaking. there is a JW at the bottom of one of our local lakes that sunk because it was tripped and took on water via the aft hatch.
Last edited by Aerominded; Oct 21, 2009 at 02:10 PM.
Oct 21, 2009, 02:23 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
Aero, thanks for the tip. I was thinking that's how I should do it.

How do you recommend sealing the aft hatch? Make a gasket or just seal with resin?

Scott
Oct 21, 2009, 02:31 PM
Registered User
Make a gasket with silicone and add a few more screws to the hatch to ensure that it is down tight.

one method of making a nice gasket is to lay a bead of silicone around the flange of the deck opening, put a piece of plastic wrap ("cerane wrap" sp?) over that and then install the hatch- this will compress the bead to the right thickness. Wait 24 hours or so, remove the hatch, peel back the plastic wrap and you will be left with a nice gasket that will be stuck to the flange but not the hatch cover making R&R easy!

You will want to get in there for periodic maintenance so it is better not to 'glue' the hatch down with silicone. the screws will hold the hatch cover in place.
Oct 21, 2009, 02:53 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
Aero: Thaks again for the info. I actually made a gasket that way for my Soling 1M Keel. I made my keel removable and I made a gasket exactly like you described by putting down some silicone, followed by wax paper. I then put the keel and secured it as tight as I could with the lock down nut, as if it was in place for sailing. Waited 24 hours and came back, unscrewed the nut, released the keel, and peeled the paper. The end result was a perfect gasket.

It's a great tip, I forgot all about doing that, and will do the same with the rear hatch.

Scott
Oct 21, 2009, 07:39 PM
Registered User
JOHN SCALE BOAT's Avatar
Laser110,
I took a couple of pictures of the interior of the my hull to show motor location and mounting plate. Then the receiver and drive battery locations and lastly the rudder and shoe.
Oct 22, 2009, 01:37 PM
Just Limin'
laser110's Avatar
Thread OP
John Scale Boat:

Thanks for the pics, I am still thinking about how I am going arrange the inside. Think alot of it will be trial and error once I have all the parts and seeing where I can fit everything in.

BTW, you can call me Scott, instead of Laser110.

Scott


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