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Old Apr 26, 2003, 01:55 PM
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Here we go. I figured it would be less confusing to start a new thread just for building.

Gregg introduced me to the razor saw which works very easy in cutting the hatch.

First I marked the hatch lines with a pencil.

Then taped over it and re marked the line again.

I started by cutting the top of the fuse, it's easier to start than the sides.

Once I cut both of those I started the sides with an exacto blade and then finished with the saw. It cuts like butter.

The saw is an extra fine exacto razor saw to be exact.

Didn't take long at all and the cuts are very straight.

Tomorrow I'll place the carbon spar, which keeps the the rigidity of the fuse while continuing to build.

Then I'll show you how the hatch will seal correctly.

As you can see the there's all kinds of room to place the ducting and fan. All I had around was a KY unit and even it fits with room to spare.

The fuse I'm using is was number two from the mold. The new ones are much cleaner inside. Still very usable.

More tomorrow.

Steve
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Old Apr 26, 2003, 01:56 PM
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cutting the top first.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 01:57 PM
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hatch cut open.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 01:58 PM
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Lots of room in there. Looks like a fast build so far.

More later.

Steve
Old Apr 26, 2003, 02:41 PM
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great pictures, Steve. where am i on your shipping list ?
Old Apr 26, 2003, 04:08 PM
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Is there a template to mark the hatch, or are the measurements somewhere?
Mike
Old Apr 26, 2003, 04:22 PM
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Mike,

There's a line in the fuse that marks it.

It's hard to see but when you angle it to the light source it shows up. I just marked it with a pencil to see it better.

I may mark them with a fine pen before I send them out. Might help.

Steve
Old Apr 26, 2003, 04:31 PM
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Okie Doakie.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 06:13 PM
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I used a 1/4 inch carbon tube for the spar.

Drilled a hole 4 1/4 forward from the TE and 3/8 down from the top of the wing filet.

I made the hole a little under sized and used a reamer to get it just right.

Spar is 12 inches long, make sure you have in even and straight.

It's pretty easy.

I used a little CA to hold it in place until you epoxy and micro balloon it securely.

Steve
Old Apr 26, 2003, 06:17 PM
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Next I located another set of holes 3/4 back from the LE and 1/4 down.

You may have to do a little adjusting to get it pararell and fill in any gaps with epoxy and balloons.

This piece adds more strength to the fuse and gives you a nice tray to mount the battery to. Also a little more bite for the wings.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 06:19 PM
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Eventually we will add a ply tray, but this is the idea.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 06:20 PM
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Micro balloons and epoxy added.

Now to the hatch.

Steve
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:41 PM
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Ok the hatch went pretty easy.

First thing is to cut some the fiber glass strips included to 1/4 inch wide. Also cut some 1/2 inch strips.

Glue the strips to the locations as shown, on the inside of the fuse.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:43 PM
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Glued to the inside of the fuse so a little more than half it's width is sticking up.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:45 PM
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Do this to both sides and the curves.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:47 PM
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Next thing to do is add the quarter inch strips to the inside of the hatch as shown.

First mark the locations, the strips are glued front edge to the lines.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:48 PM
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Strips glued in.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:51 PM
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Then take the 1/2 inch strips and glue them to the 1/4 inch stips so they over hang even to the hatch edge. This makes a nice slot.

Do this to both sides and the forward part of the hatch only.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:53 PM
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Last edited by U812; Apr 26, 2003 at 08:02 PM.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:55 PM
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I bent all the edges on the tabs a bit forward to make it easy to slide on. It fits just perfect and will eventually be held down at the back with a magnet.

Here's a few pics.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 07:56 PM
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Closed.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 08:00 PM
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Next step will be to build the wings.

Turns out the 4 pair I have are off, so back over to TDL model systems for some late night cutting.


Be back soon.

Steve
Old Apr 26, 2003, 08:10 PM
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Once again, ignore the scrappy looking fuse. It was the 2nd one I made up, messy but still good.
Old Apr 26, 2003, 11:52 PM
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Steve,

This is a very neat idea for mounting the hatch. I'm glad I waited to see how you were going to do it. My EJF A-10 will surely benefite from this technique. Thanks.

One question though, were did you get the fiberglass sheet? Did you just make it?

Art
Old Apr 27, 2003, 12:19 AM
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Can't take credit for it, it's an old techique. First time I used it was on my HOB F-86 back in 88, or was it 89?

Anyway glad it helps you, it keeps it perfectly aligned.

The material is made in sheets all ready to go. I get it from my friend who's doing my wings. He uses it to vacuum bag wings for UAV's and saves me the scraps.

I'll find out the link to the company if you want to order some.

In the past I have used 030 petg and abs, but I like this better because it's made of the same material the fuse is and will last longer.

Steve
Old Apr 27, 2003, 02:53 AM
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While I wait on the new wings tonight I started the tails.

You guys know the drill.

First mark the elevators using the supplied template.

Then shape it to an airfoil.

Cut the elevators from the tails.

Final sand and prep for 1/2 oz. cloth and epoxy.

Getting tired, more tomorrow.

Steve
Old Apr 27, 2003, 02:54 AM
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airfoil shape
Old Apr 27, 2003, 02:55 AM
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elevators cut away.
Old Apr 27, 2003, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by U812
I'll find out the link to the company if you want to order some.
Steve,

Please do. I would appreciate it.

Art
Old Apr 27, 2003, 04:05 PM
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Arthur,

I'll find out later tonight and post.

Steve
Old Apr 27, 2003, 10:44 PM
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ME P.1101


Looking sweet Steve,

I guess all the fiberglass fuselages I have dealt with were dogs compared to the one you are working on. Always had a bit of filling to do and lots of sanding before primer. Anyways I found a picture of a P.1101, actually a rendering of it and I thought I would send it to you.

Eric
Old Apr 28, 2003, 12:03 AM
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Eric,

I'm doing my best to avoid the pin holes and bubbles. As I make more I improve each time to a point now where they're coming out consistant.

You always have to sand them and primer until smooth not unless it's a Jepe. When I find bubbles I patch them so you don't have to.

Love the picture. It's interesting that you can see the hatch in the picture. The real plane may have had those panel lines. Didn't know that. Makes me fell better about the big hatch on the back. It's scale after all.

Will and his dad are very clever.

Thanks Eric!

Steve
Old May 01, 2003, 02:21 AM
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Got the tail feathers glassed, wings sheeted and tomorrow I'll add the tips and glass the wings.

I'll post some more pictures tomorrow but this process is pretty routine for anyone who's built a few planes.

I'll attach the wings and tails this weekend, after that I'll be able to show the engine installation. Gregg is lending me a fan and motor for that so I can get the instructions done.

Canopies should be here anytime now. Next week I get the boxes so it's moving along well.

Steve
Old May 02, 2003, 01:29 AM
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Got the wings all framed up today. The canopies showed up and they look great . Thanks Will.

I think the pictures tell the hole story.

What you do is make sure the TE is even with the root. Then mark the foam around the over kill spars.

Dig it out until the cores sit even against the root or filet.
Dig a small hole for the front spar.

Then slip them on to the spar and make a piece of scrap foam fill the hole and glue in, don't get any glue on the spar.

Once dry you sand it even with the rest of the core and your ready to sheet the wings.

Gregg taught a neat trick.

First cut the 1/32 sheets to fit the wings. Do not glue then together.

Spread an even coat of Probond over top surface and lay the sheets on butted up tight, repeat on the other side.

Put the wings back in the cradles ( make sure you have wax paper on both sides ), stack some books or weights on top and wait 24 hours before opening.

They come out perfect and any gaps are filled well by the Probond.

Trim the TE's. Sand the root and the tip .

Place the LE's on with epoxy and the tips. Once dry sand the wings to shape and your ready to glass them.

More tomorrow.

Steve
Old May 02, 2003, 01:29 AM
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next
Last edited by U812; May 02, 2003 at 01:34 AM.
Old May 02, 2003, 01:31 AM
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This leaves a nice hole to push the spars into.
Old May 02, 2003, 01:34 AM
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next
Last edited by U812; May 02, 2003 at 01:37 AM.
Old May 02, 2003, 01:38 AM
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wing pushed up flush.
Old May 02, 2003, 01:44 AM
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Tips and LE's on, it all matches up well. I'm going to have the wing cores dropped evenly about 1/32. They are just a little fat.

But these will be fine once I glass them to the root and add a little filler.

This will be the last time I change the cores. I held off CNC cutting anymore until I got pass this step.

This is one of the things we had to adjust for a few times before we got it right.

Steve
Old May 02, 2003, 02:06 AM
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Yeaahhh Baby!


Looks good Steve. Cant imagine how many cores it could'a taken to get the wing right. And I'm still trying to come up with a good accurate way to drill cores. The other day I was thinking I might try a CF rod with the end sharp like a hole punch and lightly soak it in epoxy then roll it in some sand. Basically a bladeless drill bit. There's got to be a better way, I'm sick of blowing out cores even with a drill press. Plus maybe with the rod you can have any length bit you want to get through those pesky foam fuses.

Barry
Old May 02, 2003, 02:35 AM
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Re: Yeaahhh Baby!


Quote:
Originally posted by monkamarm2000
I'm still trying to come up with a good accurate way to drill cores. The other day I was thinking I might try a CF rod with the end sharp like a hole punch and lightly soak it in epoxy then roll it in some sand. Basically a bladeless drill bit. There's got to be a better way, I'm sick of blowing out cores even with a drill press. Plus maybe with the rod you can have any length bit you want to get through those pesky foam fuses.

Barry
barry: a brass tube with the end sharpened via exacto #11 works well. just twist and push. ..............gregg
Old May 02, 2003, 09:17 AM
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Steve I'm getting EXCITED and the money is burning a hole in my pocket!!! stefanP
Old May 02, 2003, 10:50 PM
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Stefan,

Hold on to your horse's. It's coming to a field near you soon.

Finally cut the slots with and exacto and the tails fit perfect.

For the fin ( which I for got to mark in the plug ) I measured 5/8 back from the rear of the fuse for the location. I used the finished fin and marked around it cutting to the inside of the line. Didn't take long at all to cut the slots.

Now to glass the wings tonight. Next step will be to cut the ailerons and put in the servo's. Once that's done I can install the wings and tails for good. I'll post lots of pictures for those steps.

I'll be mounting the trust tube and intake- motor, fan after that.

Getting there.

Steve
Old May 02, 2003, 10:52 PM
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The tails look a little bumpy because there still not cured enough to sand down and I picked up some darn dust in the second coat of resin.

Here's the whole bird, starting to look like an airplane now.

More tomorrow.

Steve
Old May 02, 2003, 11:14 PM
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Awesome Stevo Looks like a real nice bird. And thanks Gregg, that makes sense. I guess with the thinner walls of the brass tubing you get less dragging of the material into the hole. I'll try that. I'm already working on a nice tube jig out of CF for straight holes in long pockets and thick fuses. The brass will still slide right through it no prob.

Barry

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Old May 02, 2003, 11:15 PM
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Wo der Luftwaffe Pilot ist.................
Old May 03, 2003, 12:03 AM
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Looking really good Steve, Keep up the good work!!!

Eric
Old May 03, 2003, 05:59 AM
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You're a machine Steve Good workin'
Old May 03, 2003, 03:19 PM
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Thanks Guys! And Haldor, so are you. Get busy on the ford would ya?

Steve
Old May 03, 2003, 03:41 PM
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Very nice Steve, just don't give it Gregg yet though!

Definitely worth a Hacker BA (B** **S) .
Old May 03, 2003, 06:06 PM
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That one is mine, yours, Gregg's are standing by. You can get it end of this week coming up.

Glassing the surfaces takes longer than anything else in building this plane. Can't wait to see what you do with it.

Have a paint scheme in mind yet?

Thanks Herb,

Steve
Old May 05, 2003, 11:47 PM
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Starting to look like an airplane.

Took me a short day to sand and fill the seam on the fuse. Then I primed it.

This was the second pull I made and it wasn't very good in IMO, but still it came out nice. Not many pin holes. Surface is great.

Finishing off the fuse is the easy part. It took days waiting for the various layers of resin to set up enough to wet sand everything. But it was worth it, you get a great surface.

Next I'll start cutting the ailerons and putting in the servo's. Once that's done I can attach the wings. I'll post good pictures of this process, but it's pretty basic stuff.

Steve
Old May 05, 2003, 11:49 PM
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I just taped everything on for a look.
Old May 06, 2003, 02:55 AM
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great! we're getting arf's now
Old May 06, 2003, 01:36 PM
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I wish. Maybe some day.

Steve
Old May 07, 2003, 01:46 AM
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Got the wings finished today. Servos in place. Now I can attach them. I'll post pictures tomorrow.

Tails get attached next. Than the motor, fan and ducting.

Oh...and then the best part, I get to paint it this weekend.

Anyone have any good files for German markings for this plane?

Steve
Old May 07, 2003, 04:04 PM
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Here's some pictures of the procedure I used for finishing the wings and attaching them.

First thing is to mark the location for the ailerons. I'm supplying a CD that will have all the drawings and templates on it. All you do is print them out, they are to scale.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:08 PM
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Here's the blades I used. These are carbon steel. One blade last 10 times longer than the exacto blades. They are # 11. Try them you'll never go back to the exacto.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:11 PM
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Next cut them out. I used a razor saw for the solid balsa tip. I cut them out to the outside line and then removed the material from the actual aileron to account for the balsa to be added.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:12 PM
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The line is the material to be cut away.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:14 PM
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Once that's cut away mark as shown.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:15 PM
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Material cut away
Old May 07, 2003, 04:17 PM
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Cut all your wood to finish the ailerons and wing TE. Make sure it all fits before glueing.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:18 PM
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I used 5 min. epoxy and taped the pieces in place.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:21 PM
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After they dry, sand to shape and fill if needed.

While that sets, we then cut the boxes for the servo's. CS 10's or anything else in that size group just fit flush into the wing.

Mark at the measurements as shown.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:22 PM
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another
Old May 07, 2003, 04:26 PM
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Once the hole is cut and the servo fits well, take a 1/4 brass tube ( thanks Gregg ), grin it sharp at one end.

Draw a line with a pencil on the wing indicating the path of your tunnel.

Core out the hole with the brass tube. Then you can feed in the servo wires to the outside of the root.
Last edited by U812; May 07, 2003 at 04:48 PM.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:28 PM
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servo in and wires outside. Use silicone to glue the servo in.

Tape the base of the servo wires to keep epoxy from sticking to them when you glue the wings on.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:30 PM
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I made ABS covers and used silicone to glue them in place. If you should ever need to replace a servo you'll be able to peel them off.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:33 PM
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Now I've sanded everything and primered the surfaces.

I used glass horns and glued them in, hinges in place. Once I hook up the radio I'll hook up the control wires.

At this point your ready to attach the wings.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:37 PM
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First you make a jig from the image supplied on the CD. Just print it out, glue it to some blue foam or balsa.

I placed a battery inside the fuse to keep the fuse level and seated well in the jig.

The filets are set at 1 degree positive and that seems to check out well, you can trust the jig, but always use your gauges for best results.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by U812
Once the hole is cut and the servo fits well, take a 5/8 brass tube ( thanks Gregg ), grin it sharp at one end.

Draw a line with a pencil on the wing indicating the path of your tunnel.

Core out the hole with the brass tube. Then you can feed in the servo wires to the outside of the root.
5/8"! are you using supersize servo wires
Old May 07, 2003, 04:41 PM
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Use epoxy and micro balloons to attach the wings.

Coat the spar and the root surface, make sure you drill some holes in the root at the fuse.

Press the wing up against the root and wipe off and excess.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:43 PM
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It's what I had and it allowed for easy passage of the wires to the out side.


I used the old incidence gauge to make sure.
Old May 07, 2003, 04:46 PM
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Also used a level to make sure the wing was level and sheared it up. When dry repeat all steps for the other wing panel.

More later.

Steve
Old May 07, 2003, 04:48 PM
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I take it back, I used 1/4 inch brass tube. Just double checked it.

Not so bad Gregg and the wires pass through easy.
Old May 07, 2003, 05:00 PM
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Are you going to put a ball link on the horn? (or the servo side)

It's nice to have the pushrod aligned with the direction of flight but unless you use ball links the rod should be 90 degrees to the hinge line IMHO.
Old May 07, 2003, 05:10 PM
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Great wing pictures.

Paul Askins
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Old May 07, 2003, 05:41 PM
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Chris,

I'll be using ball links, just have to go get the hardware tomorrow.

Of course your right about that, and all input to this build is appreciated as always.

Thanks Paul, glad you like it.

Steve
Old May 07, 2003, 06:42 PM
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Most excellent construction photo's! You make it look easy. What is the red filler? Auto body?

mike
Old May 07, 2003, 06:49 PM
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Yep. It paints the same as the glass.

You have to build it up in layers if you doing a deep recess or it takes too long to dry and it can crack.

Stays attached very well,even in area's that flex.

Thanks Mike.

Steve
Old May 07, 2003, 06:53 PM
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As Chris has pointed out, my servo angles are not correct to the flight path.

The locations will remain the same, but make sure you angle them to the direction of flight.

I over looked this by getting ahead of myself, but it will be corrected by ball links.

Steve
Old May 07, 2003, 08:23 PM
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Servo wire channels


Quote:
Originally posted by U812
I take it back, I used 1/4 inch brass tube. Just double checked it.
Wouldn't it be easier to do this before you glass the wings? That's the way I've always done it, is it better to do it after glassing?

Mitch.
Old May 07, 2003, 09:01 PM
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Great job Steve, as usual.
Old May 07, 2003, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by U812
... my servo angles are not correct to the flight path. The locations will remain the same, but make sure you angle them to the direction of flight. Steve
Very nice Steve. Will the epoxy stick to the primer on the wing-fuse joint? Re hinges I have seen them often at right angle to the hinge line, with short linkages. Side push on the hinge does no useful work except stress the hinge.
Last edited by Herb; May 07, 2003 at 09:32 PM.
Old May 07, 2003, 09:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by U812
I made ABS covers and used silicone to glue them in place....
Remember that ge silicone does not take paint though, it won't stick so you have to be careful. Better glue them on at the end, after the Hellblau has been applied to the underwings.
Old May 07, 2003, 09:59 PM
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Thanks Herb,

But I'll tell ya, these hatches will not be removed very easy. I just tried, stuck to the paint very well.

I'll still use the ball links, couldn't hurt.

Really guys, you can build this plane as you please, nothing is set in stone.

But keep it coming, it all helps for those who will be building shortly to have the imformation.

Kevin, thanks man!

Steve
Old May 08, 2003, 12:59 AM
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Wings


Another good poor mans incidence guage is your Wing saddles. Of course your screwd if they were wired straight, but I always set my templates square just for that occcasion. Then I won't need the whole saddle just 3 inch sections one cut out near the tip and one cut out near the root but far enough away to epoxy. Plus I get the added bonus of using the saddles to drill spar hole's straight.


Barry
Old May 08, 2003, 01:01 AM
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Right on Barry.Will finish this bird this weekend, paint and all.

The wings are on and it's all down hill from here.

Again, if anyone has some good files for the decals post them here.

Steve
Old May 08, 2003, 01:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by U812
... if anyone has some good files for the decals post them here.
Now let's see, which Jagdgeschwader did you have in mind ?
Old May 08, 2003, 02:00 AM
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Translate Jagdgeschwader please Herb.

Those are great. Iron crosses are needed if you have then too.

Here's my paint scheme.

Thanks Herb,

Steve
Old May 08, 2003, 02:01 AM
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This one is nice too.
Old May 08, 2003, 02:11 AM
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i like this one
Old May 08, 2003, 02:12 AM
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some more
Old May 08, 2003, 02:16 AM
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I get it now. Thanks Gregg.

Steve
Old May 08, 2003, 02:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by U812
Translate Jagdgeschwader please Herb.

Steve
Steve: you need to brush up on your German
or try this http://world.altavista.com/

btw: when you fly a German plane, you need to think in German!
viel Glueck
Old May 08, 2003, 02:29 AM
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Roger Das

Ich arbeite auf es

Steve
Old May 08, 2003, 03:17 AM
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Here's some history on the plane I copied from the www.luft46.com site.



Engineer Hans Hornung, of Messerschmitt, began to create the first of the Me P.1101 single-seat, single jet engine fighter designs. Only nine days after the specification was issued by the RLM (July 24, 1944), the first Me P.1101 had taken shape on paper. The fuselage was short and wide, with two round air intakes on either side of the cockpit, which fed the single He S 011 jet engine which was located in the lower rear fuselage. 710 liters (188 gallons) of fuel could be contained above and below the turbojet. The wings featured two different sweepback angles, a steeper angle (40 degrees) near the fuselage and a shallower angle (26 degrees) outboard. Flaps were located over the entire trailing edge to aid in slow speed operations. Another 170 liters (45 gallons) of fuel could be carried in wing tanks located in each of the inner wing sections, making a total of 1050 liters (277 gallons). The V-tail unit (110 degrees of separation) was mounted on a boom that extended above the jet exhaust, a feature that would be present on all future Me P.1101 designs. A steel plate was used on the underside of the tail boom, to protect the enclosed radio equipment from engine exhaust heat. The nose wheel of the tricycle landing gear retracted to the rear and the two main wheels retracted forwards into the wing roots. A single SC 500 bomb could be carried, partially stowed in a belly recess. The main armament was to consist of two MK 108 30mm cannon, located in the lower forward fuselage sides.
The next Me P.1101 design dated from August 30, 1944. It was basically similar to the first design, but sleeker. The fuselage had a more pointed nose section, and was designed to hold a variety of armament. As in the first design, two circular air intakes, located on either side of the cockpit, fed the single He S 011 jet engine which was located in the rear fuselage. There were two protected fuel tanks above the engine and behind the cockpit that held 830 kg (1830 lbs) of fuel. The wing was "borrowed" from the Me 262 outer wing, was swept back at 40 degrees and mounted mid-fuselage. A V-tail was also to be fitted on this design, with the jet engine exhausting below the tail boom. The nose wheel retracted to the rear and rotated 90 degrees to lie flat beneath the weapons bay in the nose. Both main wheels retracted inwards towards the wing roots. Provisions were made for a drop tank, and even for a towed fuel tank using the V-1 wing! The armament was to be either a MK 112 55mm cannon or two MK 108 30mm cannons, with a possible third MK 108 or MK 103 30mm cannon being able to be squeezed in. One of the more advanced weapon proposals for this design variant of the Me P.1101 was for the upward firing SG 500 "Jagdfaust" (Fighter's Fist). This was basically a thin cased 50mm high explosive rocket propelled shell housed in a vertical tube. Two of these would have been placed in the fuselage nose, and a single SC 500 bomb could also be carried beneath the fuselage.
Even a ramjet powered P.1101 was proposed, the Me P.1101L (L for the Lorin ramjet). The fuselage was enlarged to accept the Lorin ramjet tube, and the undercarriage was kept simplified and low to the ground. Since a ramjet does not operate until a certain speed is reached, eight solid-propellant rockets with 1000 kp thrust each would be ignited to reach the ramjet's operating speed. Only a very short takeoff distance would be needed, but the aircraft's range would be limited, thus the Me P.1101L would have to be deployed near key Allied bombing targets.
After obtaining many differing results from a variety of wing profiles and fuselage shapes from windtunnel testing, Messerschmitt decided to actually build a full-scale, flying test aircraft. Since many of the components were already built (wing assembly, undercarriage, engine and controls), it was felt that the aircraft could be flying and giving more accurate test results in a relatively short time. There was no official backing from the RLM of Luftwaffe High Command for the construction of this test aircraft. On November 10, 1944, Engineer Hans Hornung brought the initial design phase of the final variant to a close by handing over all documents and design data to the Construction Bureau. The selection of the construction materials was begun shortly thereafter on December 4, 1944, with component manufacturing commencing under the direction of Mortiz Asam( who, after the war, helped design the Aero Spacelines "Super Guppy" for the US). A time-saving, yet risky approach was tried on the final version of the Me P.1101: Production was to run parallel with statistical calculations and with detail construction. Despite delays due to the worsening war situation and transportation of some of the components, construction slowly took place at Messerschmitt's Oberammergau complex in the Bavarian mountains of southern Germany. This complex was unknown to the Allies, and never suffered any bombing raids during the war. An experimental testing program was also being devised. It was intended to begin the test flights with the wing sweep set at 35 degrees, and later to try a 45 degree sweep, since the wing was designed to be set at different sweepback angles while on the ground. The first test flight was to take place in June 1945. Also, a combat version was also being developed from the research version then being constructed.
The Me P.1101 V1 was about 80% complete when the Oberammergau complex was discovered by American troops on April 29, 1945, a few days before the war's end. The fuselage was constructed out of duralumin, with space provided beneath the cockpit for the air duct. Located behind the cockpit and above the engine was the fuel supply of 1000 liters (220 gallons). The rear fuselage tapered down to a cone, where the radio equipment, oxygen equipment, directional control and master compass were mounted. The underside of the rear fuselage was covered over with sheet steel, for protection from the heat of the jet exhaust. Although a Jumo 004B jet engine was planned for the first prototype, the more powerful He S 011 could be added on later versions with a minimum of fuss. The wing was basically the same as the Messerschmitt Me 262 wing from the engine (rib 7) to the end cap (rib 21), including the Me 262's aileron and leading edge slats. A second wing assembly was delivered in February 1945, in which the leading edge slots had been enlarged from 13% to 20% of the wing chord. The wing covered in plywood, and could be adjusted on the ground at 35, 40 or 45 degrees of sweepback. Both the vertical and horizontal tails were constructed of wood, and the rudder could be deflected 20 degrees. Also under design was a T-tail unit and a V-tail also. The undercarriage was of a tricycle arrangement. The nose wheel retracted to the rear and was steerable. The main gear retracted to the front, and included brakes. The cockpit was located in the nose, with a bubble canopy giving good vision all around. The canopy was kept clear by warm air which could be drawn from the engine. Cockpit pressurization was to be incorporated in the production model, as was either two or four MK 108 30mm cannon. The production model was also to fitted with cockpit armor, and up to four underwing X-4 air-to-air missiles could be carried.
A few days before the Allied Army was expected to appear, Messerschmitt had all the engineering drawings, calculations and design work placed on microfilm and packed in watertight containers. These containers were then hidden in four locations in surrounding villages. On Sunday, April 29, 1945, an American infantry unit entered the Oberammergau complex, seizes a few documents, and destroyed much of what remained with axes. The Me P.1101 V1 incomplete prototype was also found, and pulled out of a nearby tunnel where it was hidden. Within a few days of the German capitulation, American specialists had arrived to assess the significance of the seized Messerschmitt complex. After questioning some of the Messerschmitt employees, it was learned of the missing documents. When the American team tried to recover these hidden microfilmed documents, they found that the French Army had already recovered some of the documents.
One of the men in the American research team was Robert J. Woods, of the Bell Aircraft Works. He and Messerschmitt chief designer Woldemar Voight lobbied for the completion of the Me P.1101 V1 prototype in June 1945. This proved to be impossible, due to the fact that most of the design documents were now in France (which they refused to share at this point in time), and other key information had been destroyed. The prototype was by now showing damage due to the rough treatment it had been receiving, such as sitting outside in the elements and even as a photographical curiosity for American GIs.
The Me P.1101 V1 was shipped to the Bell Aircraft Works in Buffalo, New York in August 1948. More damage was sustained when the aircraft fell off a freight car, which in effect ruled out any possibility for repair and flight testing. The P.1101 was fitted with an Allison J-35 jet engine, and mock-up weapons (6 x Mg 151 and 4 x MK 108 cannon) were pasted on the fuselage sides. Bell used the Me P.1101 as the basis for the X-5, during which individual parts of the P.1101 were used for static testing. Sometime in the early 1950s, the remainder of the Messerschmitt Me P.1101 V1 was sent to the scrap yard, thus ending this unique and distinctive aircraft's history.
Last edited by U812; May 08, 2003 at 03:26 AM.
Old May 08, 2003, 03:19 AM
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Found this handy instrument panel. Actual panel drawing for the 1101. Also from luft46.

I plan to do a complete cockpit since it sits well above the intake with room to spare.

Steve
Old May 08, 2003, 02:26 PM
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Got this if it helps Steve.

Will


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