Thread Tools
Old Feb 14, 2011, 03:48 AM
WestTexasKing is offline
Find More Posts by WestTexasKing
Registered User
WestTexasKing's Avatar
Moonbeam...

A little more power might be fun, but it doesn't need much.
Most guys just switch out the props for one that has a little more pitch and find that it picks up a lot more performance.
I actually prefer the way it flies compared to a grossly overpowered 3D machine with barn door control surfaces.
The aerobatics are different, performing maneuvers requires proper inputs and a little finesse instead of the "slamming sticks around and watching what happens" 3D aerobatics.
It is a capable little model, and looks much more convincing as a scale Pitts without gobs of thrust.
Most entry level full-scale Pitts would be considered capable aerobatic trainers, it's only the highly modified ones that are competitive at unlimited aerobatic maneuvers.
So in that respect, I think it fits the bill perfectly.

Move the controls out to the very last hole on the arm, bring the CG a little more aft, and you'll probably be surprised at how well it responds to input.
About a millimeter ahead of the rear CG limit improved the rudder and elevator effectiveness/responsiveness while keeping stable flight characteristics.
Going aft of the rear limit made post-stall maneuvers very interesting, although it was a bit difficult to land and took longer to recover from stalls and spins.
Mixing rudder in with the ailerons really helped with the roll rate and slow flight turns/rolls.
I used about 20% on mine without overpowering coordinated flight with excess rudder.
Try a prop swap before you give up on the stock motor/ESC.
At least one member here has collapsed the upper wing from excess speeds after a motor swap, so it's definitely something to watch out for.
The 10x8 will give you the perfect amount of speed and amp draw for this motor and model combo, IMO:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Oblivion View Post
SuperCub 10x8E (we nickname it a paddle prop)
Full: 18.44a 218w

the stock nuts fit perfectly in the rear of the prop. prop is a great fit to shaft aswell, no play
i have a truckload of these things laying around i can now put to use

Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Feb 14, 2011, 11:59 AM
Brent Slensker is offline
Find More Posts by Brent Slensker
Weni, wedi, Java...
Brent Slensker's Avatar
The consensus at the ArtTech Corsair page, which uses the very same motor, is that the Super Cub/P51 10 x 8 prop is what this motor likes...
Old Feb 14, 2011, 12:18 PM
kuczy is offline
Find More Posts by kuczy
The Earth got in the way!
kuczy's Avatar
No need to change the motor. Just put a 11x7 on it and it will have good vertical performance. Pretty much unlimited. I put a 30amp in it just to be safe. My aileron control rods were hitting the foam inside the fuse so I had to trim some away. I also put a bigger control arm on the servo and set the aileron travel to the max. Before i did it my pitts could barely roll once. Now it roll pretty good but, could still use more. I also did the same with the rudder and elevator. Just pop off the canopy and remove the cardboard section of the cockpit to access the servos. The servos are close together but, you can put bigger arms on them too. Now I can do knife edge loops, they're not the prettiest but, it can do them.
I hot rod almost everything but, this one just needed more prop. It was way to tame before I did the mods. Low rates were impossible to use. I still only fly in high rates and all control grows maxes out but, it's 100x's better and more fun to fly.
Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:08 PM
Moonbeam is offline
Find More Posts by Moonbeam
352nd FG Association
Moonbeam's Avatar
Cool! Thanks guys!! Yeah that's what I was looking for. I'm not a 3D flyer, and I definitely like my planes to fly scale. Just this Pitts rolled like a Piper Cub rather than a Pitts.

The motor is (according to the useless manual), a 3A01C and BH's specs list says it's around 970kv. (Here's the actual quote from their site: "Brushless Outrunner High Torque 970Kv Motor, Sensorless 18amp Speed Control, and 1800mah 11.1 Volt Li-Po Battery Pack").

Is that prop from the Cub the same as the ones from the old FW190 and "Frankie" version of the PZ P-51? If so...... SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!!! I have a ton of them!!!

WestTexasKing,
Since she wants to climb at anything over 35% throttle, are you sure I shouldn't put weight in the nose? Even with a 2250 30C it was climbing with less than 1/2 throttle. I did that battery hatch mod where ya put it in at an angle from the Rx compartment and angled up toward the nose. It actually very easy to get the battery in and out that way. BIG thanks to whoever it was that posted that!!


Kuczy,
If I go with an 11x7 won't I need bigger diameter wheels? Or is there no threat of prop strike on T/O roll?
Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:26 PM
Moonbeam is offline
Find More Posts by Moonbeam
352nd FG Association
Moonbeam's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oblivion View Post




DOGS DONT BELONG AT FLYING CLUBS <----
a black lab that was under nobody's control was chasing every plane and every dog within sight.

3 attempts at landing, and 3 times i had to avoid hitting it on the strip, with my beloved Pitts Special as it wandered around
on the final climb out + bank turn to avoid it i lost power, stalled. and heres the result.

you cant fly your plane safely while also looking for pets on the loose when you land.
Thanks to Georgia's Leash Laws, I just hit the dogs if I have to, let the owner cry about it.

Seriously though, I did encounter a similar problem, and I just buzzed the dog really low twice. He got out of the way real quick.
Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:31 PM
Andy2No is offline
Find More Posts by Andy2No
NaN
Andy2No's Avatar
Moonbeam,

That's a different motor so the prop recommendations don't apply. The sttiP motor is 700Kv, which is why it needs more prop pitch. Also, you only have an 18A ESC so loading up the motor too much will blow the ESC. Unless you have access to a Watt meter, you need to be careful about over propping.
Old Feb 14, 2011, 06:39 PM
jbc is offline
jbc
Find More Posts by jbc
jbc
WHO's your DADDY!!!
jbc's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbeam View Post
Cool! Thanks guys!! Yeah that's what I was looking for. I'm not a 3D flyer, and I definitely like my planes to fly scale. Just this Pitts rolled like a Piper Cub rather than a Pitts.

The motor is (according to the useless manual), a 3A01C and BH's specs list says it's around 970kv. (Here's the actual quote from their site: "Brushless Outrunner High Torque 970Kv Motor, Sensorless 18amp Speed Control, and 1800mah 11.1 Volt Li-Po Battery Pack").

Is that prop from the Cub the same as the ones from the old FW190 and "Frankie" version of the PZ P-51? If so...... SWEEEEEEEEEET!!!!! I have a ton of them!!!

WestTexasKing,
Since she wants to climb at anything over 35% throttle, are you sure I shouldn't put weight in the nose? Even with a 2250 30C it was climbing with less than 1/2 throttle. I did that battery hatch mod where ya put it in at an angle from the Rx compartment and angled up toward the nose. It actually very easy to get the battery in and out that way. BIG thanks to whoever it was that posted that!!


Kuczy,
If I go with an 11x7 won't I need bigger diameter wheels? Or is there no threat of prop strike on T/O roll?
If that 970kv rating is correct I'd start with something like a 9x7 and go from there. Also remember you're going to get alot more thrust from a slow fly prop than just your standard sport prop in the equivalent size. And you can forget about an 11x7 if that kv you said is correct
Old Feb 14, 2011, 11:18 PM
WestTexasKing is offline
Find More Posts by WestTexasKing
Registered User
WestTexasKing's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbeam View Post
I did that battery hatch mod where ya put it in at an angle from the Rx compartment and angled up toward the nose. It actually very easy to get the battery in and out that way.
Don't forget to change the screws up top so you don't poke holes through your battery
Old Feb 15, 2011, 10:24 PM
Moonbeam is offline
Find More Posts by Moonbeam
352nd FG Association
Moonbeam's Avatar

Thank yous!!!


Hey Gang!
Thanks for the responses. I only did one rookie mistake so far. I haven't Watt Metered it yet, BUT the Cub prop, (which is the same as my old brushed PZ Mustang) did the trick!! I did a short 4 minute flight since that was all the time I had, and she flew EXACTLY like I wanted. Much better speed and maneuverability!

Take off and landing went smooth, and she even stuck to the ground well on grass!! It never so much as hinted that it wanted to nose-over, and that's with the stock wheels. So if the Watt check is good, this is the perfect set up for her. It's late and the wife and daughter are asleep so I'll have to Watt it tomorrow.

I'm very pleased with this bird now. I'm hoping that 10x8 will be fine. If I need to go with a bigger ESC I have a 20, and 3 30amp ESCs lying around in the shop. I'll also check that screw situation in the battery compartment. Overall she flew fantastic even with a fairly stout wind to contend with.

THANKS again to all you that suggested the prop change.
Old Feb 15, 2011, 10:48 PM
Moonbeam is offline
Find More Posts by Moonbeam
352nd FG Association
Moonbeam's Avatar

Watt metered


O.K., the wife and lil girl are out like lights. So I did the check, and at WOT it's only pulling 12.43 amps static. I think I'm safe.
Old Feb 16, 2011, 01:05 AM
Brent Slensker is offline
Find More Posts by Brent Slensker
Weni, wedi, Java...
Brent Slensker's Avatar
I can't WAIT to maiden mine!!....Been a week, almost flight ready, waiting for the winds to die down below 30 mph...Maybe by July....

Manual?!??..What manual??...

Speaking of flight ready....I was noticing my wing strut brackets only connect to the wing on the forward portion of the bracket...I'm thinking there is something wrong, perhaps another contact point on the wing under the covering decals?? I'll have to get it back out of the box and get a better look...
Old Feb 16, 2011, 02:01 AM
WestTexasKing is offline
Find More Posts by WestTexasKing
Registered User
WestTexasKing's Avatar
Yeah, that's what the black thumb screws are for.
The decal sheet covers the hole for them, but if you know what you're looking for you can see it.
Threads go through to the strut and into a small threaded hole.
I think we were just talking about this too LOL

FYI, flies pretty solid without them
Old Feb 16, 2011, 11:05 AM
Moonbeam is offline
Find More Posts by Moonbeam
352nd FG Association
Moonbeam's Avatar
Look that strut over real good. The set that came with my plane didn't have the screw holes in the top of the strut. The replacement pair did.
Old Feb 16, 2011, 12:32 PM
Brent Slensker is offline
Find More Posts by Brent Slensker
Weni, wedi, Java...
Brent Slensker's Avatar
Whew!...Thanks guys!...
Old Feb 18, 2011, 12:57 PM
greedyg76 is offline
Find More Posts by greedyg76
Semper Fi
greedyg76's Avatar

Batteries


Quote:
Originally Posted by jbc View Post
front compartment, I use 1300's and 1500's.
jbc - what brand of batteries are you using, because I can't get my Turnigy 15's to fit in the front compartment even after removing that foam block in the fuse. The Turnigy 1500 and 1800 mah batteries are basically the same length so I have been useing the diagonal method...


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Herr Engineering Pitts Special crashnburn Sport Planes 9 Aug 16, 2003 01:41 PM
Robbe Pitts Special JeffD Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 3 Nov 13, 2001 07:29 PM
Herr Pitts Special rubber-to-electric conversion mkirsch1 Sport Planes 11 Oct 25, 2001 11:59 PM
Robbe Pitts Special GMILL47 Scale Kit/Scratch Built 3 Oct 03, 2001 10:15 PM
Herr Engineering Pitts Special crashnburn Sport Planes 7 Jul 05, 2001 11:06 AM