there has been test showing Gens Ace 25c to 55C same power same heat when discharged... Read about it at GointCods forums, there was a guy who did the test..

So it seems same cells....

Dont know about discharge @ 50-55C ? But if a all the cells shows same curve @ 25C, dont think 50C would be worse in burstes with the 25C vs 55C..

What seems strange to me is that while the 55C and 25C is of the same size the 30C is bigger (longer). Besides the 25C has 14awg leads while the 30C and 55C have 12awg.

Originally Posted by henke

what dimension of CF rod do you use? for X-tail the CF-rod must be superior but for T-tail it's a bit trickier to get it working as the pivot would be a true challenge to most people

Sorry, I was thinking it was a x-tail. I used a 4mm od rod.

Hmm.

Thinking of this for the elevator horn. I'll just use a standard "L" bend on the end of the pushrod that goes into the horn. The standard pushrod wire is .023", but I have a K&S music wire that is .025". Might also try a .032" wire. The .032 wire easily fits through a short pice of guide tube I have, but not sure how it will fit through the entire length down the fuselage. Then, you also have to take into account the bend. I'll try it later.

Tim

Why do you make the horn go around the elevator, but never around an aileron?

Originally Posted by henke

Why do you make the horn go around the elevator, but never around an aileron?

Think about geometry for second.......And "T-tail"......

Originally Posted by Flyextreme

Think about geometry for second.......And "T-tail"......

geometry is maybe a bit better on the T-tail, so makes no sense still

Originally Posted by henke

geometry is maybe a bit better on the T-tail, so makes no sense still

Well, it "may" be effective, but it sure isn't elegant.

Originally Posted by KRProton

Hmm.

The standard pushrod wire is .023", but I have a K&S music wire that is .025". Might also try a .032" wire. The .032 wire easily fits through a short pice of guide tube I have, but not sure how it will fit through the entire length down the fuselage. Then, you also have to take into account the bend. I'll try it later.

Tim

The bend in the snake housing makes a big difference. A pushrod that works great in a straight line may not work well at all going around the curve.

Test out your different wire sizes outside the model first -- with the snake housing curved to approximately the right shape. It can very easily get draggy, resulting in an elevator that won't center properly. Definitely not good!

Once you find the wire size that seems to work well, you can carefully bend a little bit of curve into it to better match the curved shape of the snake. This will make it run smoother.

Good luck,
Lenny

Of course, real men, use a stiff rod, not a "curved snake"...

Incredible build thread Troy pointed out a long time ago:

http://www.rcmania.cz/viewtopic.php?t=26056&start=

Originally Posted by KRProton

Hmm.

Thinking of this for the elevator horn. I'll just use a standard "L" bend on the end of the pushrod that goes into the horn. The standard pushrod wire is .023", but I have a K&S music wire that is .025". Might also try a .032" wire. The .032 wire easily fits through a short pice of guide tube I have, but not sure how it will fit through the entire length down the fuselage. Then, you also have to take into account the bend. I'll try it later.

Tim

Hi Tim,

Some may do things for different reasons, but the reason I built a wrap-around elevator horn on my Viper F5D was merely to connect the pushrod out further than the edge of the elevator (see pic). I did not build my horn like that for the sake of a more robust horn installment; I did it for higher elevator resolution, more mechanical advantage, and to minimize any affects of elevator slop (I see that in your diagram, the wrap-around horn does not appear to serve this purpose). On my Viper F5B, I did not build the horn this way, since I wanted more control surface throw and did not need as high of resolution due to the slower flight speeds. The reality is, I think the setup I have for my F5B version is more than adequate. Moreover, it is easier to set up, since one of the dangers you run in connecting the pushrod further out is that your servo may not be able to generate enough throw to get enough elevator deflection (+/- 3.5 for F5D version). Ultimately, if everything isn't right, you'll either have to lengthen the servo arm, which kind of undoes the benefit of the wrap-around horn, or program the servo (if it's digital) to have extra throw, which can cause the elevator pushrod to flex considerably where it attaches to the servo arm, causing a new set of problems.

Another thing to note, the stock pushrod sleeve barely fits through the vertical stab. Therefore, if you replace this sleeve with another one, the new one must be either the same or smaller in diameter. For both of the Vipers pictured, I used the standard pushrod. Moreoever, you may notice in the pics that the end of the pushrod is more aft of the stab than you can achieve when your pushrod is in place. This is because 1) I filed flats on opposing sides of the last few inches of the pushrod so that it could fit further aft within the vertical stab, and 2) I used a thin file to file back the slot on the stab through which the pushrod exits. This is how I was, even on my F5B version, capable of attaching the pushrod closer toward the edge of the elevator.

Also attached a picture of one way to install the elevator servo (it makes installation solid, places the servo as far aft as possible, and makes replacement, should you make a mistake in cutting the length of the pushrod or bending the "L," easy to undo).

BTW, I used the 0.023 mm stock wire in my F5D version and the 0.025 wire in my F5B version; I did not notice much of a difference, but I would use the thicker one given the choice. You may use up one of them just trying to get everything right. I also pre-curved the wire a bit, as Lenny mentioned.

AEM

Thanks everybody.

Lenny, right now I have the .032" wire inside the guide tube temporarily fit inside the fuselage. Seems like it moves easy enough. If I pre bend the wire and add a little lube it'll probably be even easier, but I haven't totally decided yet.

AEM, I was already comtimplating tapering the end of the guide tube to get it to fit all the way up through the opening of the vertical stab.

I haven't finalized anything yet. Maybe I'll move the hole in the elevator horn to the trailing edge like yours AEM.

Whatever I do, I'm not gluing anything in place until I have it all figured out and working smoothly.

Thanks for all the photos and expertise.

Tim

Originally Posted by KRProton

Hmm.

Thinking of this for the elevator horn. I'll just use a standard "L" bend on the end of the pushrod that goes into the horn. The standard pushrod wire is .023", but I have a K&S music wire that is .025". Might also try a .032" wire. The .032 wire easily fits through a short pice of guide tube I have, but not sure how it will fit through the entire length down the fuselage. Then, you also have to take into account the bend. I'll try it later.

Tim

Tim, much better this way, otherwise you will end up with like 30% travel to get the throws recomended... There is no advantage on elevator to have it this way,,,,, I can understand on ailerons maybee you want to use flaps, that makes you want the possibility to move them more..

when flying 200mph the sensitive elevator will "fell" much more precise and secure having mechanical advantage as in my picture..



Just a thought..

better picture of my elevator horn..

I can do that!

Thanks!

Tim