Converting Bit Charge tx to stick type rudder control - RC Groups
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Apr 23, 2003, 09:20 AM
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Graham Smith's Avatar

Converting Bit Charge tx to stick type rudder control

If like me you are used to flying with a conventional transmitter, you might find this mod to the 'Bit charge transmitter' of interest.
It only takes about 20 minutes to do and costs nothing. I hope the drawing is self explanatory.

Most of my flying has been done outdoors in the dark by street light (the only time here in the UK when the winds die down!) and having a rudder stick has eliminated the fumbling for the buttons and made flying much more relaxing!
The plastic in the case is fairly thin for the self tapping screw, ( my screw came from the plate which held the car down in the snow dome) so make this hole a tight fit. Mine shows no sign of coming loose though. You could double up the plastic in this area with a bit of scrap plastic, left over from the car chassis.

The other Graham.

West Midlands UK.
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Apr 23, 2003, 09:31 AM
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Graham Smith's Avatar

converitng bit charge tx etc.

Here is a photo of the transmitter
Apr 23, 2003, 09:35 AM
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Graham Smith's Avatar
Here is a photo of transmitter
Apr 23, 2003, 09:37 AM
Fanfold abuser
Jgardner's Avatar


Neat modification. Thanks for the detailed graphic.
Apr 23, 2003, 02:22 PM
Thats NOT indestructible
j8m8l's Avatar
Thanks Graham

Very nice , i have seen these for actual bits, but that would not help me (i am SOO cheap )


Apr 24, 2003, 06:48 PM
Sticky Shepherd
Graham Stabler's Avatar
Great idea, I have added it to the useful threads, thread.
Apr 25, 2003, 07:07 AM
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Graham Smith's Avatar
Thanks for doing that Graham.
Apr 25, 2003, 02:17 PM
Alfredo Rubio's Avatar
Very smart idea... looks like an more profesional transmitter, and I think is more easy to control, as all of us use sticks controls, I will to do it with mine.
Nov 10, 2003, 05:59 PM
Registered User

little help needed please! :)

Hi! I live down south in the UK so feel sure if we have bad weather you have too!? I love what you have done with your control and will be sure to try it as soon as I work out all this other stuff on here relating to the micro flyer etc.....Im not new to flying but very new to all this micro stuff! its the electrical bits that get me and just a few too many buzz words for my likkle head! I have a bit-charger car and plans for an easy build plane so we will see! if you have any old (working) made up planes I would be happy to pay you for them! (and anyone else come to that!) well thanks for your time Philip Cameron
Nov 11, 2003, 06:40 AM
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Graham Smith's Avatar
Nice to hear from another UK flyer. Glad you like the TX conversion. I Am also waiting for some better weather - calm evenings so that I can fly outside the house. Although there are more indoor venues springing up all the time.
I am still flying all my models. as I have only been experimenting with bit charge models for about nine months, so I have no models to sell. Part of the fun is building the models and experimenting. The models needn't take long to make, especially if you use foam. Search the threads and see what other people have done.
Don't forget to keep the model light. If you are using the unmodified reciever from a bit charge car aim for a max weight of about 15 grams. Most people use the 145 lithium poly. battery, which is about 3.7 volts. A single bit charge car battery (1.2 volts) won't give enough power. Although the reciever will take the extra volts of a lithium battery without damage.

Have fun.

The other Graham
Nov 12, 2003, 06:42 PM
Registered User

A few questions from the UK!

Hey Graham,
Thanks for the reply! well after reading your words I decided to get stuck in with it all and if you have the time id love to ask you a few questions!!? I have taken the car apart and have already managed to break off one of the actuators! the other is in tact but is not working! I have checked the connections and they seam to be fine! I have read that allot of people suggest making their own would you solder something so fine!? (I guess it will be necessary to create my own as the wires are not long enough to extent all the way to the back of a plane?

I have made sure that the motor works and have removed the old TX Arial although when trying to replace it with an old one I striped to just its wire (about 30") it does not work when its connected!? when I take it off the solder point it works when rx is very close....any ideas!!?
I also see that I am required to alter parts in both the TX and rx with bits and there anywhere down south I can get these from (for a sensible price!) and what about the bat and charger?

I am sorry for so many questions I feel like I am taking and not giving in return.......not the person id like to be in a forum! if you (or anyone reading!) has any questions about electric helis or planes id be happy to try and help...iv been flying for ages but im very new to building my own!!

Thanks for reading!
Philip Cameron
Nov 13, 2003, 08:58 AM
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Graham Smith's Avatar
Phillip, Itís a pleasure to answer your queries. It works both ways, you will probably be sharing your ideas with fellow contributors when you get your model flying!

I would suggest to start of with, you should aim to get a model to fly with as few mods as possible to start of with. What range are you getting with the standard car set up?, this dictates what sort of mods you need to do.
with the two makes of cars that I have converted I get about 30 feet of range on the ground. If this is what you are getting, then all you need to do is replace the short thick car aerial with a longer single strand of fine wire. (5amp fuse wire, or single strand from an electric cable) and then see what sort of range you are getting with the car held two foot off the ground. The range on my cars. increases to about 80í which is sufficient for flying lightly loaded half ounce models.
I am about to try taping an extra length of wire to the TX arial to see what effect this has on range. I canít understand why your RX doesnít work when you replaced the arial (you said TX but I think you meant RX?) If it worked before, so it should still work as long as the soldered joint is ok. 30Ē length sounds fine.
The car actuators work fine, Mine weighs 1.5 grams, people wind their own to save weight, but as you say they are tricky to get out without breaking the wires. Unsolder the wires from the reciever first and label them to remind you where they go. This will reduce the flexing and stress on the wires. I leave the coils in the car chassis and cut the assembly out of the car with a junior hacksaw, then I trim as much plastic away as is feasable with a modelling knife to reduce weight, until there is just a ĎUí shaped part of the frame remaining, with the coils still attached, this means they are spaced correctly for the arm holding the magnet. Soldering the wires is easy, if you happen to break them, as long as you scrape away the coating with a modelling knife first. I like to keep the actuator near the CG and use invisible thread to connect them to the rudder, so there is no need to lengthen the wires. Someone suggested recently that they remove the coils by heating the plastic with a soldering iron to soften it and the coils then drop out, which seems quite a good idea if you want to remove them.
I can send you the plan for my model, ( 26" span floater type, similiar style , but smaller than, Phillip Camerons superb model, -see "a couple of new models thread")which explains in detail how I modded all the bits and pieces including the car gearbox. If you let me have your email address I can email it to you (jpeg file).
Hope this helps.
The other Graham
Nov 13, 2003, 01:23 PM
Registered User
THANK YOU! your information is great. I will be getting on with things tonight! and I think the reason the RX will not work with the new aira is due to its thinkness. My email address is and I would be very greatful for the plans you mentioned. Look forward to hearing from you soon all the best Phil
Nov 13, 2003, 08:09 PM
Registered User
i think this fits to "stick type rudder control" thread as well )

the resistance change of the input chanel will be AD converted the output pin will be triggered(in this test case the small led)

the outpin pin will be connected to the motor or steering it works proportional

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