Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 04:55 PM
MikeHRC is online now
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Hal,

The "stickness" that you describe on T250s and clones is generally that one or more of the links is too tight on the ball - if you size them then the heli will hover much better.

Cheers,
Mike.
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Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeHRC
Hal,

The "stickness" that you describe on T250s and clones is generally that one or more of the links is too tight on the ball - if you size them then the heli will hover much better.

Cheers,
Mike.
thanks, but the problem was traced back to the washout base, which i replaced, it was too sloppy and so there was slop in the collective which made it unresponsive
Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Hal_The_Hacker
thanks, but the problem was traced back to the washout base, which i replaced, it was too sloppy and so there was slop in the collective which made it unresponsive
Heya Hal,

Where did you buy the washout base, and the blade grip bearings from?
Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:22 PM
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Surprisingly my balls (no jokes) were sized right on....
Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:32 PM
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since we are on the subject of ball sizing, should i buy a ball sizing tool or a knife edge reamer? and where do i buy one?

Thank you
Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Evan D
Surprisingly my balls (no jokes) were sized right on....
yeah my balls are nice and smooth too, no excessive stiffness or rubbing damned innuendo
Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by tornadorc
Heya Hal,

Where did you buy the washout base, and the blade grip bearings from?
got them from my HK250PL kit, but I get my align parts from: http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/
Old Oct 13, 2009, 05:56 PM
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thank you Hal.
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:32 PM
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What package dear?
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Originally Posted by Hal_The_Hacker
thanks, but the problem was traced back to the washout base, which i replaced, it was too sloppy and so there was slop in the collective which made it unresponsive
Nice review, I am under the impression still that with metal grips and metal main rotor hub and Align feathering shaft, that the plastic version is lighter less slop and is a good bang for the buck?
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Hellysmack
Nice review, I am under the impression still that with metal grips and metal main rotor hub and Align feathering shaft, that the plastic version is lighter less slop and is a good bang for the buck?
yeah thats the head, but the frame sucks, and the tail looks awful for any headspeed
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:38 PM
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Hmmm...what head parts would you replace with Align parts if you wanted it to be more precise? Besides the washout, woudl you replace other parts?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 250 size heli, but would like a full metal one if possible as I believe it would survive crashes better. The HK250GT is appealing...
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lovespicyfood
Hmmm...what head parts would you replace with Align parts if you wanted it to be more precise? Besides the washout, woudl you replace other parts?

I'm about to pull the trigger on a 250 size heli, but would like a full metal one if possible as I believe it would survive crashes better. The HK250GT is appealing...
actually durability in crashes is about the same between plastic and metal heads, plastic snaps when metal bends, but for my kind of flying, plastic would snap in flight .

if you DO go for the GT, then you need to replace two of the blade grip bearings, the flybar seesaw bushings (with bearings) and possibly the washout base
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:44 PM
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if your planning to crash...., crash with a cheap one. if not, go with the real deal. The cost of replacing parts on a clone to make it like the real deal, would cost almost the same as getting the real deal. hmmm
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by tornadorc
if your planning to crash...., crash with a cheap one. if not, go with the real deal. The cost of replacing parts on a clone to make it like the real deal, would cost almost the same as getting the real deal. hmmm
not really, i paid $90 for my heli in effect, and i got bunch of spare parts for it, a genuine align would cost around $300, and fly and crash just the same
Old Oct 13, 2009, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal_The_Hacker
actually durability in crashes is about the same between plastic and metal heads, plastic snaps when metal bends, but for my kind of flying, plastic would snap in flight .

if you DO go for the GT, then you need to replace two of the blade grip bearings, the flybar seesaw bushings (with bearings) and possibly the washout base
Thank you for the info, I appreciate it.

Was it a b**ch to get the bearings out of the blade grips? I know I have ruined a pair of Align 450 blade grips trying to get bearings out in the past... I think I've now perfected the heat method and a properly angled punch, but this small grip might drive me nutz!

I have found that in the vast majority of crashes on my full metal 450 helis, the metal survives nicely, ultimately saving $ imo.

Not sure what works better on this size heli as metal parts certainly have more weight and thus momentum to bend!

Pete


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