Originally Posted by kidlat

Has anybody tried the HK 250 with the cx-3x1000 FBL gyro? I heard these "cheap" gyros don't work very well with 250 sized helis.

Yep - works absolutely fine

Originally Posted by efx

I just checked my last one with a needle. The depth seems about 10mm. The thread is hard to tell how far they go, looks to be far down. It seems the middle has enough strength. I put in one of the new screws and it screws all the way down, without the washer. The length of the screw is about 5mm so that may need to be fixed on them.

Before I receive the new FBL head I was thinking on using a longer bolt, you may try that just for safety.

If I can find longer screws, that may help that. Good idea. I'm not sure I have anything longer.

Originally Posted by r3dskull

Before I receive the new FBL head I was thinking on using a longer bolt, you may try that just for safety.

Originally Posted by MikeHRC

Yep - works absolutely fine

Thanks Mike!

Originally Posted by efx

Thanks for the suggestion. Adding washers is a pain on it. So what other gears has anyone used on these that may work, or other workaround? I'm thinking the shaft may need to be changed as the lip sits a bit higher making the gear sit higher. I really don't want to use washers even though that may work. I'll do a test for now but thanks again. Actually I was just afraid the gear would break on when that set screw side comes around each time.

If you take a 2.3mm drill bit, you can open up the gear end about 2mm, just to the point where the set screw starts, and the gear will go onto the shaft farther.
I have made shims out of carbon fiber board and CA to the motor.

My 250GT is almost done, but I encountered this problem

HK-250GT: The rejected main shaft (0 min 15 sec)

Main shaft has been replaced but head assembly still wobble. Bottom main shaft block seems does not fit properly and make the main shaft wobbly.
Is this common problem with 250GT?

Sounds like your main shaft is not fully seated and the bearing is riding on the small part of the shaft.

What do you mean with bearing is riding on the small part of the shaft?
Before attaching main gear, I spin the main shaft and I could see bottom part of main shaft was wobble. There are a lot of play room between lower bearing block and main shaft.
Is this normal or do I need to change the bearing blocks?
Are align bearing blocks fit 250GT?

Originally Posted by denox

What do you mean with bearing is riding on the small part of the shaft?
Before attaching main gear, I spin the main shaft and I could see bottom part of main shaft was wobble. There are a lot of play room between lower bearing block and main shaft.
Is this normal or do I need to change the bearing blocks?
Are align bearing blocks fit 250GT?

From the amount of wobble with a new shaft, it looks to me like the bottom bearing is missing. Could it have fallen out?

Originally Posted by denox

My 250GT is almost done, but I encountered this problem

http://youtu.be/K5XBxpOykXQ

Main shaft has been replaced but head assembly still wobble. Bottom main shaft block seems does not fit properly and make the main shaft wobbly.
Is this common problem with 250GT?

take the head off and the swash, turn it back on and see if it still wobbles.
if its seems strait then add the swash . if it still looks smooth then add the head only without the flybar and blade holder , just the head. it may be a bad swash or head . i had a head that didnt sit or drilled strait that will do that wobble

The next logical step right...

Homer's 2011 (25 min 40 sec)

Originally Posted by efx

The next logical step right...

Do they come with a reset.

Thanks for quick replies guys.
Bearing is still in the block, I suspected wrong bearing size is installed in bearing block.
Jombo, I will try your suggestion later.
Are bearing blocks compatible with align?

Haha...I don't think you get a second chance on a crash with those.

Originally Posted by BThirsk

Do they come with a reset.

I found some 10mm and 6mm long screws. I put the 10mm into the new shaft to see how far they would go in, but they stick out, so I'm now using the 6mm long screws for the feathering shaft. I think even 8mm may work but I don't have any to check. Either way 2mm more than the short ones that come with the feathering shaft is better than none.

Good idea on opening the gear to bring it down more. I decided to just try this as they are and the heli has been fine. Just had other issues with the belt losening, the new link being too tight and forgetting the battery strap. I have these thin velcro straps and decided to just stick it between the metal and carbon fiber pieces. I just unscrewed the one screw at the front, slide the strap in and put the screw back and through the strap. Now I don't have to worry about those things falling off all the time or forgetting them. Seems to work great if you are having problems with your straps too.