Great Planes Shoestring .46-.81 GP/EP Sport ARF Review - RC Groups

Great Planes Shoestring .46-.81 GP/EP Sport ARF Review

The new Shoestring .46-.81 GP/EP Sport Scale racer from Great Planes is bright, bold and beautiful! With options for glow or electric power this mid-sized racer is worth a closer look.



Wingspan:54 in.
Wing Area:572 in2
Weight:108 oz.
Length:47 in.
Wing Loading:27 oz/sq. ft. as flown
Speed Range:Fairly Slow to Fast
Servos:Futaba S9001 BB Coreless
Transmitter:Futaba Fasst 7C on 2.4 GHz
Receiver:R617FS 7 Channel Fasst on 2.4GHz
Battery:2 x 3350 mAh 3S Electrifly 25C lipo
Motor:Rimfire 42-40-800 (.46) Outrunner
RPM:13,450 RPM Static with Full Battery
ESC:Electrifly Silver Series 60A HV Opto
Power Loading:54A / 1150W / 170 W/lb.
ESC:Electrifly Silver Series 60A HV Opto
Speed: 82 MPH Level pass using HowFast
Speed: 119 MPH Full dive
Typical Flight Duration:8 - 9 min. mixed flying
Manufacturer:Great Planes
Available From:Your Local Hobby Shop and Great Planes

Great Planes has introduced the Shoestring, a sport scale model of the famous racer developed in the 1940s for the Cleveland Air Races. The model offers versatile choices for power, with either electric or glow options easy to install. Let’s see how well the Great Planes shoestring lives up to its racing heritage.

Air racing in the USA started in Cleveland, Ohio as the Cleveland Air Races. The year was 1929, and it was the largest air show and competition of its day. Lately, the Reno Air Race has continued the tradition with several classes of aircraft. Ranging in speed from 250 to over 500MPH, air racing has been called the fastest motor sport in the world. The pilots sometimes come within 50 feet of the ground and a few feet away from each other while traveling at high speeds and pulling high "G's". Most of us will only be able to imagine the thrill of pulling a thundering WWII fighter around a tight turn at several hundred MPH, but it must rank as one of the greatest experiences of a lifetime!

The Shoestring is a midget racer that was developed in 1949 by Rodney Kreimendahl as an entry for the Cleveland Air Races and got its name from the "shoestring" budget with which he had to work. It was successfully raced through the 1970s. Modern copies are raced today in the Formula 1 category at Reno. As a Formula 1 racer, strict regulations are imposed on the engine: All must use a Continental O-200 with 100 HP. These planes run between 250 and 300 MPH in racing mode.

Most of us who are excited by high performance aircraft will not get to pilot one of these planes, but we can get quite a thrill from building and flying a scale model. The Great Planes version of Shoestring is a mid-sized model designed for either glow or electric power in the .46-.81 size range. Let's see if it gives us a taste of Formula One racing!

Kit Contents

Kit Includes:

  • Full fiberglass fuselage
  • Fiberglass cowl
  • Canopy with installed pilot figure
  • Wing halves with installed ailerons
  • Carbon Fiber wing tube
  • Fiberglass landing gear
  • Wheels and fiberglass wheel pants
  • Covered tail surfaces
  • Glow engine mount and fuel tank
  • Spinner
  • All necessary hardware
  • Kit Requires:

  • 42-40-800 Rimfire outrunner motor or .46 to .55 2C glow, or .70 to.81 4C glow engine
  • 60A Brushless ESC
  • Brushless Motor Mount
  • 6S lipo batteries, 3350 mAh 25C
  • Battery Series adapter if needed
  • Radio System and Servos
  • Receiver battery or BEC
  • 11 x 5.5 APCe Propeller
  • Thin CA
  • 30 min. Epoxy
  • Hobby tools
  • Items Included for Review:

  • Rimfire 42-60-800 Rimfire Outrunner motor
  • 2 Electrifly 3S - 3350 mAh Silver Series 25C Lipo batteries
  • 1 Battery Series Connector
  • Electrifly Silver Series HV 60 Amp Opto ESC
  • 4 Futaba S9001BB Coreless Ball Bearing Servos
  • Futaba 7C Transmitter on 2.4 GHz
  • Futaba 7 Channel R617FS Fasst Receiver on 2.4 GHz
  • 1000 mAh NiCd Receiver battery
  • Radio Switch Harness
  • Aileron “Y” Cable
  • Ernst Charge Jack for Futaba
  • The quality and appearance of the plane blew me away. Friends that have seen it have been drawn to it like a magnet and have commented about how good it looks.

    The kit was double boxed and arrived in great shape. Popping the lid off of the compact kit box showed a nice layer of decals and an instruction manual, followed by the tail parts and wing halves; each carefully bagged and taped in place. Removing the top cardboard divider revealed a full fiberglass fuselage carefully floating above the bottom, surrounded by boxes containing the cowl and wheel pants and a complete box of hardware and accessories for the glow version. On the bottom was the carbon fiber wing tube carefully taped in place. It’s a very carefully packaged, high quality kit.

    Removing the plastic bags revealed some beautiful parts. The foam core wing halves and balsa tail surfaces were smooth and well covered. The fiberglass fuselage was gorgeous to look at and quite light. The cowl and wheel pants were as nice as the fuselage.

    See the Instruction Manual HERE. I gave the instruction manual a careful read, noting only 2 places where I had questions about the assembly sequence. I marked those places for careful study before I got to gluing and assembling parts. The manual was excellent. It provides an efficient building sequence and offers good tips and solutions for easy and accurate assembly. I was especially pleased with the recommendations for drill bit sizes for installing clevises, push rods and servo arms. The final control surface installation was very smooth moving and free from play.


    My great joy during this build was that ALL of the recommended radio and power system parts were included for review. This is the first time I've used exactly what the kit manufacturer recommended, and it was a real treat to bolt or screw together parts that fit perfectly! No modification of screw or bolt holes was needed. Now THAT was fun!

    Please note that the photos and description below are just to give you an idea of the build. The manual provides all the detail you need to build carefully.

    I started by running my sealing iron over the Monokote covered surfaces to stick it to the wood really well. The covering was very well done with the exception of some small bubbles and micro wrinkles near one wing root.


    Recommended Servo:Futaba S9001 BB, Coreless

    Size:1.6 x 0.8 x 1.4" (40 x 20 x 36mm)
    Transit Time: .22 sec / 60 deg @ 4.8 V / .18 sec / 60 deg. @ 6 V
    Torque:54 oz-in ( g / cm) @ 4.8 V / 72 oz-in @ 6V
    Accessories:Extra arms, wheels and mounting hardware
    Weight1.7 oz / 48 g
    Manufacturer:Futaba Radio Control
    Available From:Online and Fine Hobby Shops

    The wing halves are already hinged with ailerons. The aileron servos install on the underside of the hatch covers. In all cases where wood screws are used, the manual recommends that you put in the screw, take it back out, wick some thin CA into the screw hole to toughen it, then reset the screw when the CA has set to prevent loosening from vibration and give it a very firm installation. I plugged together the servo extensions and secured the plugs with large heat shrink tubing (included). I used the strings to guide the servo wires down the tubes to the wing roots and then installed the control horns, noting that the screws DON'T go all the way through the aileron! Drill your pilot holes carefully. I fit the clevis to the pushrod, making a 90 degree bend at the servo location and installed a Faslink to attach the servo end. I slipped a silicone clevis retainer over the clevis to keep it closed.


    The fuselage needs to be supported in a cradle or placed on a foam pad as you work on it. It is painted, and you don't want to scratch or chip that beautiful surface. I slid in the carbon fiber wing tube, bolted on the wings and used them to align the horizontal stab.


    I fit the horizontal stab dry, lining it up by measuring carefully, and then I used 30 min. epoxy to set it accurately in place. I had to place some weight on one side to align it with the wings.

    I dry set all the elevator CA hinges, following the gluing instructions carefully.

    The rudder has always been challenging for me to do well, and I had to try twice to get this one right. The manual recommends you use CA to set the tail wheel wire into the rudder, then more CA (or epoxy) to set the nylon tab into the fuselage along with the other rudder CA hinges. After applying oil to the wire/nylon bushing pivot, I used CA to attach the tail wheel wire into the rudder. I got the nylon bushing stuck to the rudder as well, paralyzing the rudder movement. I fixed it, but I would recommend careful use of epoxy for both the tail wheel wire end and the nylon tab end so that you have plenty of time to apply glue carefully and it doesn’t tend to run onto other parts. The other hinges use CA, like the elevators.

    Next, I installed the control horns for both elevators and rudder. These screws DO go all the way through the surface, where a nylon plate joins the parts together. It is notable that there are hardwood inserts at all of the control horn locations which creates a very secure control setup.

    Radio Installation

     Futaba 7C - 2.4 GHz Radio System
    Futaba 7C - 2.4 GHz Radio System
     Complete System
    Complete System
    Frequency:2.4 GHz Fasst System
    Servo Type:Futaba 3152 Digital with Radio System
    Type:Ball bearing, Digital, Size 1.6 x 0.8 x 1.5" (40 x 20 x 36mm)
    Transit Time: .22 sec / 60 deg @ 4.8 V / .18 sec / 60 deg. @ 6 V
    Torque:70 oz-in ( g / cm) @ 4.8 V / 87 oz-in @ 6V
    Accessories:Extra arms, wheels and mounting hardware
    Weight1.5 oz / 41 g
    Manufacturer:Futaba Radio Control
    Available From:Online or your Local Hobby Shop

    The Futaba 7C FAAST radio system on 2.4 GHz was used to guide the Shoestring. This radio uses continuous frequency hopping to avoid interference and includes a full range receiver. The transmitter has adjustable gimbals for spring tension, and the sticks are adjustable for length. It has a 10 model memory and full feature sets for airplanes, helicopters and gliders. Switches can be assigned to any function, and several mixes are available. A speedy rotary input dial makes programming and model naming go quickly. The EEPROM memory does not need power to retain your settings, so the transmitter battery can be safely removed for service or cycling. Dual and even triple rates can be set to one switch, as well as a low / high rate function that can be applied to the position of the control stick. The radio guided the Shoestring precisely with no noticeable lag in response. It gave a very “connected” feel to the flights. See a complete review of this radio system HERE. .

    I used the pushrods to locate the best spot for the servo arms. I secured the servos and then followed instructions to make 90 degree bends, cut off the excess and used Faslinks to attach the pushrods to the servos. The twin elevator pushrods are joined by wheel collars. Use thread locker and tighten well!

    I installed the receiver using a foam backer and a hook and loop strip wrapped around the case. I routed servo leads from the rudder, elevator, and aileron 'Y' harness as well as the ESC radio lead. I used cable ties to neaten the installation. Since this is an Opto speed control, I added a receiver battery to power the radio which also required me to install a receiver switch and Ernst Charge Jack on the fuselage side. You could save a few ounces by using a quality BEC with plenty of amps to power your onboard radio instead of a receiver battery.


    The wheel pants bolt to each half of the landing gear. I recommend you run the screws into each blind nut to make sure they thread in easily before assembly. There was a little "fuzz" in some of the holes. Follow the steps in the manual to mount axle, wheel and wheel pant.

     Silver Series 60A HV Opto ESC
    Silver Series 60A HV Opto ESC
    Type: Brushless HV Speed Control
    Number of cells: Li-Po 4 - 12
    Weight: 102g
    Current Capacity: 60A Continuous/ 72A Surge
    Opto No BEC
    Max Power(watts): 3000W
    Brake Function: On / Off

     Rimfire 42-60-800 (.46 Equivalent)
    Rimfire 42-60-800 (.46 Equivalent)
    Type: Brushless Outrunner
    Number of cells: Li-Po 5 – 6 cells
    RPM/V: 800
    Weight: 268g
    Shaft Diameter: 5 mm
    Max Power(watts): 1000W Continuous, 1850 Burst
    Recommended Props: 10 x 5 to 11 x 5

    The motor installation comes next, and there are instructions for glow or electric. I’m building an electric version, so get out the motor, motor mount and screws. I bolted the motor to the front of the mount carefully. I had one screw that was too long, and it was starting to burrow into an insulated wire inside the motor. I took the screw out and ground off the threads until it would tighten without hitting any wires.

    I cut cooling holes in the firewall, following the instructions and using the template on the last page. I drilled several smaller holes first to reduce the load on my rotary tool. I installed the motor and mount using thread locker, built the ESC platform and then attached the ESC. The battery leads will be long enough when the “Series” adaptor is plugged onto the ESC leads. I recommend running a small cable tie around the connection between the ESC and Series connector to prevent it from pulling apart.


    Read the instructions carefully and do a lot of trial fitting until you see how the measurements work. I drilled an extra hole on each side that missed the mounting blocks inside the lower fuse. It turns out that the first picture on page 22 of the manual shows measurement "C" of 11/16", to be taken from the bottom edge of the red paint trim on the side of the fuselage. This is incorrect. The 11/16" measurement should be taken from the bottom of the "step" in the nose of the fuselage. This will correctly locate the screw hole to hit the block inside. Before you drill, "eyeball" where the drill will penetrate, and verify it will hit the mounting block. I taped the hole from the inside of the cowl, filled with lite filler and then smoothed and dotted some yellow paint in the patch. It is almost invisible. The other "extra" holes get covered by the cowl. I attached the cowl with screws and washers.

    I used my rotary tool to cut out the cooling hole in the bottom of the cowl. There is a template in the back of the manual. Wear a dust mask and work with a shop vac that has a low micron filter, or go outside to grind the fiberglass cowl.

    I balanced the prop, reamed and installed the spinner and prop, and the outer assembly was done.


    Even though these are not water slide decals, Great Planes recommends using a soap and water mix to allow you to position the decals more easily. I used the photos on the box to help orient and locate the decals properly. Note: Each decal has small lettering nearby that tells you where to put it on the plane before you cut it from the sheet.

    Battery Installation

    I slid my batteries onto the battery tray and noted the position. I attached the canopy, and then performed the CG check, marking their position on the tray. To reach the marked CG position, I found that the batteries had to come all the way back to the spar. I installed hook and loop fastener on the battery plate and batteries, then routed the long hook and loop strap around the batteries, then reinstalled the batteries and canopy.

    Set directions and throws

    The radio and servo installation yielded very smooth moving control surfaces with no play. Use the throws and exponential recommended in the manual. Low rates yield a very smooth and controllable flight path for this model.


    The moment of truth! Using low rates, I rolled on power to the Rimfire motor, which gave a lot of RPMs in a hurry. You need plenty of throttle to get moving in grass. The plane accelerated quickly, needing a little up elevator and right rudder to keep it on line. I relaxed up elevator as speed built and the tail lifted, then gave a little up elevator at 75 feet and the Shoestring lifted smoothly into the air. A couple beeps of aileron and 3 of elevator had it tracking straight ahead. I pulled on back throttle because it was getting small very quickly! After a few passes and test maneuvers, I was getting comfortable with the plane. It was apparent that this plane wants to go fast and is very groovy doing so.

    With fall well underway at my flying site, I took the best opportunity for flight tests in mid-November. The downside was the wind, blowing at 15 to 20 MPH, oriented at 45 degrees to the runway. There was some buffeting in maneuvers because of gusts, but overall the plane handled the wind very well. Its sleek design and heavier wing loading were an advantage on this windy day. On calmer days, the plane tracks smoothly along, although landing approaches have to be slowed down well in advance because the plane just wants to keep flying. This is addressed in the manual.


    Once trimmed out, the plane goes where you point it and responds quickly, yet solidly. At high throttle the Rimfire turns up to a powerful howl and Shoestring really moves out! I backed off the throttle until the motor stopped, then slowly fed in low rate elevator. The plane slowed considerably but never stopped flying. There was a slight mushiness, but no actual stall. Easing off elevator and applying power had it flying smoothly again almost immediately.

    Taking Off and Landing

    I fly off of grass, so I used my best tail dragger techniques to get the plane tracking straight ahead. Once it has some speed, no corrections were needed. Pull back a bit on the elevator, and it rises smoothly off the ground.

    Landing is another matter! This airplane is modeled after a racing plane, and it is very clean aerodynamically. It also carries a higher wing loading than a typical aerobat, so it doesn’t want to slow down. When you cut power and start your landing pattern, it flies smoothly down the glide slope, but maintains a lot of speed. I sailed over the field completely the first 2 times, and each time I cut off the motor earlier on the downwind leg. Finally, I cut the power off early enough so that it crossed the field boundary at 4 feet of altitude and held it in a slow descent. The Shoestring finally settled in about 2/3 of the field length, tracked straight ahead, and came to a stop. The best technique seems to be to let it settle to about 2 feet of altitude, then ease your way down to the ground until it settles on the gear. If you are going too fast, it bounces and keeps flying.

    Some ARFs have notoriously weak landing gear blocks that tear out with the first bounce on a grass field. This has happened to me with 4 different planes, and I’ve seen it with 10 others at our grass field. I am happy to report that the Shoestring not only zips through tall grass easily on takeoff, but it tolerates HARD drops onto the landing gear with no damage whatsoever. My first landing attempt created a stall at 3 to 4 feet of altitude, resulting in a full speed drop onto the main gear. The plane bounced back into the air without any damage to the gear, attachment plate or wheel pants. This is the most robust LG I’ve seen on an ARF, and Great Planes is to be commended for building an airplane that handles the loads imposed by flying on grass (and poor landings!).

    Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

    The Shoestring shows its racing heritage with high speed, stable flight. It is also a great sport plane on low rates. With 170 W/lb. available, loops are as big as you want with excellent vertical power. It retains energy well through maneuvers. Pulling back on the throttle hardly slows the plane as it zips through the downward portion of the loops.

    Stalls are hard to induce with low rates. High rate elevator causes the nose to drop straight ahead, where a burst of power will get it flying again.

    The Shoestring will hang on the small prop, but does not have a margin for pulling out.

    Rolls are fast and close to axial. Slower rolls need timed elevator to stay on line.

    4 point rolls look clean at speed.

    Inverted flight is neutral at the recommended CG.

    Snaps can be done on high rates, even at high speeds.

    Spins require high rates and lots of altitude because the plane comes down nose first. The control surfaces are not large enough for flat spins. The spin stops as soon as you release the sticks and add power to get it flying again.

    Knife Edge is possible at high speed. It pulls a tiny bit to the gear, with some roll coupling, but this is easily mixed out. A high speed pass not only looks exciting, but the motor turns at 13,450+ RPM and makes a nice howl. A power off high speed pass lets you hear the wind racing through the cowl and cooling outlets, creating a neat rushing sound.

    Pylon Turns are a blast! Pour on the power, roll it almost 90 degrees to the ground, and then pull on the elevator. It carves quickly around the turn with little loss of speed. Can you imagine 2 of these chasing each other around a course?

    The speed envelope is very wide, with satisfyingly high top speeds of a little over 82 MPH, all the way down to slow controllable flight. With a shallow dive the Shoestring will easily exceed 100 MPH. (119 MPH in a full dive) In fact; the airplane keeps getting small as it covers big areas of sky at speed. As a side benefit to its 27 oz/ft2 wing loading, the Shoestring flies very well in wind. Our photo and video session was done on a 15 -20 MPH day, and the plane handled it well. In fact, this may be the plane I fly when most of my fleet is grounded.

    A nice feature of the ESC is that when low voltage cutoff is reached, it pulses the throttle and you can hear it clearly. The plane's speed doesn’t change much speed as this happens, so you can back off throttle and set up your landing approach in a normal fashion.

    Is This For a Beginner?

    This is an airplane for intermediate to advanced flyers. The Shoestring is a symmetrical mid-wing design that goes where you point it. It has no bad habits, but it will not right itself like a trainer will. It also carries some speed into the landings, which you must manage carefully. Get good with an aerobatic trainer and something with some speed before you enjoy this beautiful plane.

    Flight Video/Photo Gallery

    Guest pilot Tim Tworek puts Shoestring through its paces.



    This airplane just begs to scream and go left! Between its speed and the sound of the Rimfire motor turning 13,500+ RPM, you just have to pull some pylon turns and shoot low passes! It handles wind well and can perform sport aerobatics well. The plane feels solid and precise in all maneuvers. Flying is really fun. This is the nicest airplane I have yet had the pleasure to assemble and fly. Each part is a quality item and leads to a tight, precise airframe. The Futaba radio system responds instantly to control inputs. Now I know what pilots mean when they say “I feel really connected to the plane”. It grooves in the air as you carve solid maneuvers out of the sky. The recommended power system is a great match for the airframe, yielding big, smooth, and fast performance. Shoestring has a wide speed envelope, from slow to coming by really fast, and it is comfortable to handle at all speeds. It also handles wind very well and will be my go to airplane for not so perfect days. All in all, a smooth, responsive flyer capable of high speed and standard aerobatics. Given its great looks and solid flying ability, I am looking forward to a lot of flights with the Shoestring!


  • Beautiful finish on fuselage and flying surfaces
  • Robust landing gear and wheel pants
  • Solid flying characteristics
  • Excellent wind penetration
  • Motor, ESC, batteries barely warm after full power runs
  • Recommended parts create a great combination of power, speed, duration, and flight responsiveness
  • Minuses

  • Final touchdown must be done a low speed
  • Incorrect cowl installation picture. See article for correction.
  • Last edited by Angela H; Jan 06, 2010 at 04:22 PM..
    Thread Tools
    Jan 06, 2010, 05:13 PM
    Registered User
    loved it.I had the original wayyyyyyy back but I like this one with electric.definitely on myu summer list!!
    Jan 06, 2010, 05:37 PM
    Registered User
    pda4you's Avatar
    Wow that moves out nicely. What are the motor stats (Amp/Volts/Watts)? Were you running the 11x5.5 in the video?

    Jan 06, 2010, 07:17 PM
    Registered User
    Great review!

    I'm about 75% complete with mine. I am very pleased with the quality of this plane. The build has been quite easy so far, but I'm glad to get the benefit of your review to complete mine.

    I won't be flying it until spring, but it sure looks good just sitting there!
    Jan 06, 2010, 10:24 PM
    "On the Wing"
    paulo810's Avatar
    Great plane and review. Thanks for NOT overwriting the sound track with music. I like hearing the real sound.

    Jan 06, 2010, 11:27 PM
    Registered User
    Kmart's Avatar
    Those are some great photos, both in-flight, and on the ground! I like the watermark too.
    Jan 07, 2010, 01:41 AM
    Here is a video of mine.

    I'm using a TURNIGY 50-65A 400kv Outrunner from HobbyKing here: $28

    6S 4350 EVO 25 Lipo
    16X10 Prop

    5 years ago I originally had this plane set up with an Axi 4130 on 10s5000 (2x5s packs)
    I had not flown it in a few years.
    When I went to fly it on new 10s 5000 packs, today's lipo technology was too much for the Axi 4130 and smoked the motor.
    So over the summer I tried this 6s power system. So much lighter and still plenty of power.

    Last edited by JIMinKENTUCKY; Jan 07, 2010 at 08:10 PM.
    Jan 07, 2010, 07:11 AM
    Registered User
    EYEinSKY's Avatar
    Originally Posted by kmart
    Those are some great photos, both in-flight, and on the ground! I like the watermark too.

    Thanks K! I did the build photos, and my buddy Dave L. used his big Canon to get the in-flight shots. Thanks DAVE!
    Last edited by EYEinSKY; Jan 07, 2010 at 09:31 AM.
    Jan 07, 2010, 09:27 AM
    Registered User
    EYEinSKY's Avatar
    Originally Posted by pda4you
    Wow that moves out nicely. What are the motor stats (Amp/Volts/Watts)? Were you running the 11x5.5 in the video?

    I always used the 11 x 5.5 APCe. See the top sidebar next to the intro paragraph. It lists power, weight, dimensions, etc. Those were static (on the ground) measurements.
    Jan 07, 2010, 09:30 AM
    Registered User
    EYEinSKY's Avatar
    Originally Posted by RCForever
    Great review!

    I'm about 75% complete with mine. I am very pleased with the quality of this plane. The build has been quite easy so far, but I'm glad to get the benefit of your review to complete mine.

    I won't be flying it until spring, but it sure looks good just sitting there!
    Thanks RC. The Shoestring is really pretty and shiney. I hope to talk my wife into propping it under the TV so I can admire it for the Winter!
    Jan 07, 2010, 09:30 AM
    Registered User
    pda4you's Avatar
    Originally Posted by EYEinSKY
    Thanks K! I did the build photos, and mybuddy Dave L. used his big Canon to get the in-flight shots. Thanks DAVE!
    Thanks - I see it now. Wow you would really get some speed with more pitch. Hmmmmm
    Last edited by pda4you; Jan 07, 2010 at 01:18 PM.
    Jan 07, 2010, 03:26 PM
    Registered User
    mexico's Avatar
    It looked faster than I had expected.
    Nice Tim.
    One of these days I need to fly something other than an aerobat. I have considered hotliners but my eyesight is not that good. Maybe a racer like this would be a better fix for speed for the visually challenged.

    How large a diameter prop can be run on it?
    Jan 07, 2010, 04:21 PM
    Test your IMAC!!
    sun.flyer's Avatar
    Originally Posted by mexico
    It looked faster than I had expected.
    Nice Tim.
    One of these days I need to fly something other than an aerobat. I have considered hotliners but my eyesight is not that good. Maybe a racer like this would be a better fix for speed for the visually challenged.

    How large a diameter prop can be run on it?

    Thanks Lenny!

    Excellent job on the review Tom!!

    Yeah, the GP Shoestring really moves out and I was very pleased with the top speed on the recommended setup. Some might want more but I thought the top speed was more than enough on this plane.

    The one thing that will suprise you is how slow it will fly on final. Good landings are definitely possible with good airspeed management.

    Thanks for the pull on the Shoestring Tom.

    Jan 07, 2010, 06:31 PM
    jrb's Avatar
    Originally Posted by propnut07

    loved it.I had the original wayyyyyyy back but I like this one with electric.definitely on myu summer list!!
    To which kit/ARF are you referring?
    Jan 07, 2010, 07:33 PM
    Originally Posted by jrb
    To which kit/ARF are you referring?
    He's talking about the original one for glow that came out a few years ago. It's the same plane really but without the battery hatch.

    My video above, is of the original glow version converted to electric.

    The original version came out roughly 5 years ago. My video was taken this past summer.
    I have only put about six flights on it because I normally fly EDF jets. Plane still in great condition.

    Last edited by JIMinKENTUCKY; Jan 07, 2010 at 07:48 PM.

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