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This thread is privately moderated by fw190, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Sep 22, 2009, 06:01 PM
VicRC
Build Log

Vic's Build-a-Bear; Jerry Bates 1/5.5 Bearcat


I finally got around to finishing my own Bearcat, since I made a glass fuselage a long time ago, built one for a lost friend of mine and never got around to finishing and flying my own.

To view this blog/thread click https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1115600

Designed by Jerry Bates, 80" span and weighs in between 20-24lbs. I am powering it with a Zenoah G62 and using Gene Barton's articulating retracts. Jerry is a great designed and this is the best scaled plans for this aircraft, not to mention its also a great flyer. With a G62 and around 22lbs will make it scoot pretty good!

The second picture is one that my friend ScottDogg build last year. As Mr O' would say, 'Its Phenomenal'.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 23, 2009 at 10:00 PM.
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Sep 22, 2009, 06:08 PM
VicRC
Here are a few examples of this aircraft, built from the glass fuselage.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 22, 2009 at 06:44 PM.
Sep 22, 2009, 06:16 PM
VicRC
The first step was to install the formers in the glass fuselage, laser cut parts available from Bob Holman, as well as other plans, accessories for this aircraft. As you can see the servo trays are integrated to the formers so it is strong and provides clean install of servos. I made sure the servos are as far forward to the front as this cat is short nosed and will take less dead weight to CG.

I located the formers in the fuselage and marked them with a sharpie from the outside, anywhere you need to glue something to the fuselage you need to sand the area to help glue stick permanently to it.

You must have already built your wing to install the front former that holds the dowels from the leading edge of the wing. This way it can be positioned at the correct location.

Installing the formers is easy and took only a few nights to do. You zap CA them in place and then epoxy them. On the tail wheel former, you should pre-drill your tail retract before you install it. Its best to cut open the tail wheel door to help access the area.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 23, 2009 at 10:03 PM.
Sep 22, 2009, 06:20 PM
VicRC
To mount your wing, I drilled through the front fuse area and drilled through the former and into the wing. Make sure all is lined up. Then you can glue in your dowel for the wing and it all should line up perfectly. Its easier to do this if the rear wing bolts are already in place.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 23, 2009 at 08:09 PM.
Sep 22, 2009, 06:25 PM
VicRC
The next step was to make the tail feathers. I used Fliteskin to sheet the stab. Since this stuff is very thin I capped all my ribs, leading and trailing edge with 1/16th balsa sheets before sheeting with Fliteskin. After sheeting I glued in the leading edge, sanded and glassed the bare balsa with 1 oz cloth.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 22, 2009 at 07:07 PM.
Sep 23, 2009, 05:26 PM
VicRC
I manage to get the main gear in and it was a chore grinding to get the strut cylinder free and its very very close to the top of the wing skin as it pivots. On the inner door I used a brass tube with a piano wire inserts. The wheel doors are removable to make painting and maintenance easier.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 23, 2009 at 08:12 PM.
Sep 23, 2009, 05:28 PM
VicRC
You need a large access area to get the gear in and out of the retract mounts so I made an access panel to get the gear in and out of the mount. I only need one screw to keep the panel in place as the two other edges have keepers to hold them down.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 23, 2009 at 09:37 PM.
Sep 23, 2009, 05:33 PM
VicRC
Today I tested out my Ultra Precision 3 valve and it worked great. Opens the inner wheel doors, lets the gears down, and leaves the doors open. During retraction, gears go up into the wing and waits for a bit then closes the inner wheel doors. This stuff works awesome! the only trouble was finding the perfect location for the air cylinder, and mounting the horn for it on the inner wheel doors, this took the most time as I had to test and try different size horns. The cylinders I am using have 1" stroke, would be nice with a 1.5" stroke but then those cylinders might be too long to fit inside the wing.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 24, 2009 at 12:33 PM.
Sep 24, 2009, 05:03 PM
VicRC
To ease the connection between the wing and fuselage, I might put a twin air bottle inside the belly pan, since it is pretty much empty space and once placed in there I will never need to access it.
Sep 25, 2009, 07:07 PM
VicRC
For the flap and ailerons servo mounts I am using an aluminum L brackets that will be mounted on the ply and hardwood block that I will gluing inside the top sheeting and closest rib. The screws where really short that came with the L brackets because they were used for jets, but with gas powered warbird you need to use the servo grommets to ease the vibration from the engine. I ended up getting longer 4-40 screws and used red loc-tite on the nuts to keep them from loosening up. I could have used a nylon-lock nuts but did not have on hand.

With the aileron control I cut a small pathway for the rod to go into. This method is easier than making a servo horn opening on the servo covers. The aileron horn I used is just a Dubro heavy duty servo horns, ground down the stems and pushed it through the routed slot on the aileron.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 25, 2009 at 07:14 PM.
Sep 25, 2009, 07:18 PM
VicRC
Next I cut the flap and test the hinges. I don't know if this is what I want as I have hinged my first bearcat with recessed hinges but this one I might leave it the way it is and go fly.
Last edited by fw190; Sep 26, 2009 at 10:17 PM.
Sep 26, 2009, 08:39 PM
Registered User

hinges


I like the flap hinges hope you can bring one tomorrow. John
Last edited by lawndart65; Sep 26, 2009 at 08:51 PM.
Sep 26, 2009, 09:32 PM
Registered User

Bearcat


Hi,
What type [make] of hinges are those that you,ve used on the Flaps.
They appear to be a very simple and effective way of hinging flaps.

thx
Dave
Sep 26, 2009, 10:30 PM
VicRC
I will try and bring some John Boy!

Dave, they are really simple to use. To simple I feel like I am cheating. Well its not really super scale, if it was the bump will only be in the flap area and not on the wing. Anyways it works well and its operates easy plus it does give you more leverage on the control as the flaps hinges below the skin.

Here is what they look like http://hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store...idproduct=8400
Sep 26, 2009, 10:39 PM
VicRC
After cutting the flaps I need a round leading eges on the flaps so it will look right when deployed and not just an empty gap between the wing and the flaps. I added ribs, sanded the ribs down and sheeted the top with 1/16 balsa sheeting. Well I wasnt too happy with the way it looked and at the same time I felt lazy glassing and having to wait another day for the epoxy to cure I laminated the flap leading edges with very thin fliteskin. I was surprised how well it came out and it looks fantastic. Plus I don't have to waste anytime sanding and filling fiberglass weave.

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