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Stevens Aeromodel FredE Review

Times may be tough, but that doesn't mean that the fun factor has to suffer. Meet FredE, a quirky airplane from Stevens Aeromodel whose funky levels just might cheer you up a bit — because who can't be cheered up at the mere sight of Trexler wheels, anyway?



Wing Area:265 sq. in.
Weight:12 oz.
Wing Loading:6.5 oz/sq. ft.
Servos:Two Hitec HS-55 sub-micro servos
Transmitter:Spektrum DX7SE
Receiver:Spektrum AR6110e
Battery:2S 800mAh LiPo
Motor:GWS 350 motor with a 5.33:1 gearbox
ESC:Castle Creations Pixie 20P brushed speed controller
Manufacturer:Stevens Aeromodel
Available From:Stevens Aeromodel

I fondly remember my first encounter with balsa. It rang the doorbell one late summer afternoon, stealthily cloaked in a USPS triangle-shaped box. I thought it would be just another plane, another build — nothing special. It went by the name of MudBug — strange, yet enticing. Little did I know, that encounter with MudBug (it said it hailed from out west) would change the way I built and flew, right down to this day.

That was my first balsa build (and I reviewed it here, as a matter of fact), the Stevens Aeromodel MudBug, a quirky plane with looks and attitude. I soon found out that was the main trait of its creator, Bill Stevens: Funny planes with funny names, bringing the fun back to the hobby, one laser-cut piece at a time. I soon collected and reviewed the rest of the diddle-sized planes, and I kept waiting for that next esoteric release.

It has arrived now, under the name of FredE. A bigger cousin to the diddle-sized planes — this series is called WingNUTs — it sports some cartoony characteristics yet is best suited for the great outdoors. Will it be love at first takeoff, as it was with the MudBug? Let's find out.

Kit contents

There was plenty once again in that mysterious box hailing from out west. Everything that comes from Stevens Aeromodel comes neatly packed, and inside I was greeted by the following:

  • A bagful of wood: It's all precisely laser-cut, and there are 12 sheets of balsa and plywood combined. The motor stick also is included, along with a sampling of dowels and the like.
  • Hardware galore: From pushrods to pre-bent landing gear (insert sigh of relief here) to a Du-Bro tailwheel to everything in between (even magnets), it's all in the bag. An impressive package, indeed.
  • Paper, and more paper: Full-size plans are included, as is the norm with Stevens Aeromodel kits, and instructions are too. They are even more detailed than have been before, full of photographs and tips — and for your viewing pleasure, they are also available here for download.

FredE will look like a fine static model this way, but if you want it airborne, you'll need the following:

  • Motor: I used the recommended GWS 350 motor with a 5.33:1 gearbox.
  • Speed controller: Castle Creations provided its trusty Pixie 20P
  • Servos: Hobby-Lobby sent along a couple of Hitec HS-55 sub-micro servos, which Stevens Aeromodel recommends for this plane.
  • Battery: Any 2S 800mAh (or similar capacity) will do, and so I used a variety of the ones I had in the LiPo stash.
  • Radio system: As always, I trusted my Spektrum DX7SE for the thumb-twiddling task, and inside the cockpit I tested one of the new Spektrum AR6110e receivers — smaller than the previous AR6100e ones, but still as reliable.
  • Covering: A roll or two of your favorite colors will do the trick, and so I went for orange and blue, in honor of my alma mater. I used AeroFilm from Stevens Aeromodel's Web site — it's a tad heavier than SoLite, but the color choices are greater, and the weight penalty won't be that significant in this particular model.
  • Wheels: Nothing says fun like a pair of oversized balloon wheels, and so I used the recommended Trexlers #6 — an oldie but a goodie, and the perfect funny-looking complement to a funny-looking plane.
  • Optional foam cockpit: If you want to add that extra something-something to your FredE, this optional cockpit foam will be the ticket.
  • Tools of the trade: You be the judge of that, but a variety of sharp tools, thin and medium CA, some stick glue, sanding tools, a covering iron and anything in between will be required.

<font size=-2>GWS - EPS-350C-CS 5.33:1 brushed motor</font>
GWS - EPS-350C-CS 5.33:1 brushed motor
Type: Brushed, geared
Gear ratio:5.33:1
Prop range:EP 8x6 to 10 x 6
Cells:2S LiPo maximum<

<font size=-2>Castle Creations Pixie 20P ESC</font>
Castle Creations Pixie 20P ESC
Maximum current:20 amps
Weight:8.5 grams
Dimensions:0.7 x 0.4"
BEC: 1.25 amps
Price: $30

<font size=-2>Hitec HS-55 servo</font>
Hitec HS-55 servo
Type: Sub-micro servo
Operating voltage: 4.8V-6V
Operating speed: 0.17 sec/60°
Stall torque (4.8V): 15.27 oz/in.
Weight: 8 grams
Dimensions: 0.89" x 0.45"x 0.94"
Gear type: All-nylon
Connector wire length: 6.29"

<font size=-2>Spektrum AR6110e receiver</font>
Spektrum AR6110e receiver
Frequency: 2.4Ghz DSM2
Number of channels: 6
Voltage range: 3.5 - 9.6V
Weight: 4 grams
Dimensions: 21 x 28.7 x 10mm
MSRP: $49.99


I won't go into the intricacies of building the FredE (or else you would be pulling an all-nighter reading the assembly part of this review). The instructions are beyond informative and do a great job of guiding builders novice or experienced through the assembly.

The best way I can describe the laser-cut parts on this kit is to compare them to a perfectly cooked rack of ribs: They just fall off the bone. All the balsa sheets are expertly cut, and so each part slides off with barely any need to use the hobby knife.

It took me approximately two weeks to get the plane finished, from package to runway — not too shabby, but it would be easy to beat that time if you don't have an infant in the house.


The build starts off slowly with the fuselage sides and then assembling the separate formers that will give this little plane its fair share of rigidity. Some are plywood, some are balsa, and you'll pick and choose from the different laser-cut sheets.

As you make your way toward the motor mount, you have the option of building it with two separate kinds of noses: one will be round, while the other has more jagged edges. I chose the former (for no particular reason, mind you), but it's nice to have different styles from which to pick when it comes to the aesthetics.

Reinforcing galore goes throughout the fuselage sides, and after that, you stumble upon the hatch latch and different thin balsa parts that start giving the plane some sort of FredE-ish resemblance. Add the motor mount, and it starts to look like a real R/C plane. Moving aft, several formers and other parts give even more shape to the fuselage, and now it looks like a finished product.

Now, it's down to the details — and what fine details they are. The design allows you (should you be a bit OCD like me) to install the elevator servo on the side of your choosing — which means that you would install the rudder pushrods on the opposite side. Finally, add a small cardboard tube in between the formers (a nice touch for routing the elevator servo), and you're done.

You'll have to build the hatch, and the one thing you must remember there is to make sure the rare-earth magnets are properly installed. Otherwise, so much for having magnets.

And last but not least, it wouldn't be a Stevens Aeromodel without a faux glow engine, now would it? Assemble it, and now you may stare at your creation. You, young man, have just finished the fuselage.


Moving along, we proceed to the 27-inch, 265-square-inch behemoth. It goes together quickly, and it's just a matter of attaching ribs to spars. Thanks to all the notches, you can be sure that all parts are well-aligned (but if you're a skeptic, you can always check against the plans). Ribs get put in place, then the rest of the main spar, and then it's time for the trailing edge and some turbulators.

The wingtips are pre-scored so they may bend more easily along the airfoil, but a few squirts of Windex (husband tip: look for it wherever your wife stores the housecleaning supplies). Be sure to bend it carefully, however, for you don't want to hear that infamous "crack" sound.

After a few more turbulators and sub-spars, it's time to install the other wingtip, just as carefully as you did the first one. And, after adding a couple of reinforcements here and there and everywhere (Stevens Aeromodel is quite good about adding rigidity without adding much of a weight penalty), it's time to carefully sand the leading edge to mimic the airfoil. And, without further ado, there's a finished wing, ready for covering.


There's not much to the elevator/vertical stab and rudder/horizontal stab assemblies. It's the quintessential Truss-Loc-enabled jigsaw puzzle from Stevens Aeromodel, and each part fits wherever it's supposed to (or else it won't look right). I assembled all these parts over the plans, and that way I could make sure everything was well-aligned.

Before you ship the parts over to the covering department, a quick stroll through the sanding block is in order. The leading edges of both the elevator and rudder need to beveled at a 45-degree angle in order to get them ready for hinging. It's a simple step, but one you want to do carefully — long, even passes through the balsa with a sanding stick will take care of that without a problem.


Now would be a good time to warm up your covering iron. And so, the timeless cut/tack/stretch/seal/shrink ritual begins — and it's not a long process either, with just a few small pieces to take care of (it took me a couple of evenings, and I was done). As always, the main thing to worry about is warps on the wing or tail surfaces, but those can often be fixed by an extra dose of high-temperature shrinking.

Installing the tail wheel and tail assembly

A plane this small, with a steerable tail wheel? You might think it's a bit over the top, but when it comes to details, no expense can be spared, right?

This step is a bit involved, but the instructions do a good job of explaining the step-by-step procedures for bending the tail-wheel assembly. In essence, you need to bend the wire to an L shape, then route it through the fuselage, and afterward you may install the empennage. After that, a series of bends ensure the proper alignment so you don't zig-zag your way down the runway.


This area is, for the most part, a no-frills affair. The servos go in their respective places, the pushrods are routed through their respective connectors, tubes and horns, and everything should check out without much of a problem.

There is plenty of room inside the fuselage to accommodate the receiver — especially one as tiny as the AR6110e. I installed mine forward of the rudder servo, but your location may vary depending on how your center of gravity checks out. The 2S battery will easily fit on the side of the fuselage near the battery hatch as well. Finally, the speed controller will get plenty of air as long as you install it somewhere behind the firewall — and the tiny Pixie 20P shouldn't offer much trouble when it comes time to balancing the FredE.

Details, details, details

If there's one thing that the FredE doesn't lack, it's charm. It may not be huge (certainly not as huge as its XXL-sized sibling), but it has personality to spare — and that comes standard with the kit.

If you have the optional cockpit foam (and it adds a good bit of extra charm to it), now would be a good time to install it — and it goes together easily thanks to the adhesive backing. FredE himself finally makes his appearance, and with the help of some spray adhesive or stick glue, he gets his dose of rigidity when attached to the wooden silhouette.

The landing gear is a simple step, as the wire is already pre-bent. Stevens Aero has built plenty of forgiveness-in-case-of-rough-landing factor, and the gear does not bolt to the fuselage but is rather held together with some tiny rubber bands. Therefore, between the bounciness of the Trexlers and the built-in forgiveness factor of the landing gear, there's a smaller chance you'll have to open the glue bottle at the field.

After doing that, it's simply a matter of installing the struts (and its accompanying plywood reinforcements) and put the wing in place with some wire. Then, add the motor, put the faux motor in place.

Now, please stand back and admire your handiwork: You are looking at a finished FredE (and FredE is looking back at you).


Measuring a mere 27 inches from wingtip to wingtip, it's safe to say you won't need a pasture to fly this plane. A soccer field will be more than plenty, and even something half its size should do the job. Large-backyard flyer, anyone?

Achieving the correct center of gravity is quite easy, as it balances without a problem just in front of the main spar. I used several different 2S 800mAh range, and they all were tucked a bit in front of the battery hatch to achieve proper balance.

The instructions called for dual rates on the control surfaces. Dual rates, you say? On such a small plane that's supposed to stroll its way past you at crawling speed, you say? In a show of conservatism, I added them — 15 and 30 degrees for the rudder, and 20 and 40 degrees for the elevator, with expo set at 30 and 70 percent respectively. Little did I know, they would come in handy.

Taking Off and Landing

With such big wheels, taking off from grass is certainly doable, though short grass is always preferred. I mostly take off from paved surfaces, but either way will do.

That's not to say it's not going to be tricky, however. Getting airborne was a bit more convoluted than I had expected: FredE has a serious tendency to torque as soon as you hit the throttle, and the ground handling is not as easy as you would imagine. And, since the landing gear is a bit wobbly on purpose, those tendencies get exponentially magnified. Fortunately, with the help of low rates and a bit of self-control at the sticks, takeoffs can be accomplished. It's a learned technique, one would say.

Of course, there's always the good ole hand-toss option, if you don't want to fool with torque-rolling on the ground. But what's life without a bit of a challenge, right?

The return back to earth is a lot more pleasant, however. By maintaining a bit of throttle, you can still have that extra-long glide approach that you expect from such a big wing, yet you'll still keep your nose pointed a bit less toward terra firma. Once you touch down, however, don't expect to get instantly glued to the ground: The Trexlers will take you on a bit of a bumpy ride, and it's all good, for that's what they're supposed to do.

Furthermore, the rubber bands on the landing gear will also offer their fair share of bouncing — and they certainly are successful when it comes to offering some forgiveness. If you come in a bit too hot, the gear will push forward, making FredE roll in a nose-wheelie sort of maneuver, almost as if he were the aeronautical version of Evel Knievel.


While taking off and landing is best accomplished with low rates, flying is definitely better left to the high rates, no question about it. And once in the air, grace is the name of the game here. FredE is a quiet, relaxing, no-odd-tendencies kind of plane.

As expected, it takes little throttle to keep it flying level, thanks to the light wing loading it boasts. It doesn't require your undevoted attention to keep it from doing lazy circuits across the field, yet it responds quickly to any kind of stick-jamming you challenge it to.

The power system does its job quite well for a geared setup. It is by no means an unlimited-vertical kind of power, but who's counting watts, really? No one would fly this kind of plane to poke holes at the clouds and come down in an inverted flat spin. FredE is made for kicking back, and there's enough power for that, and then some.

There is plenty of wiggle room when it comes to choosing the right prop. I started with a 9x4.7 slow fly, but fate soon intervened and decided that the only spare one I had laying around — a 8x6 slow fly — would suddenly become my prop of choice. It worked just fine, though it did make FredE a bit zippier (nothing wrong with that). In higher altitudes, you could even use a 10x4.7 slow fly and be fine with it. The possibilities are quite varied, and you can't go too wrong with either choice.

With an 800mAh, there is enough juice for you to get tired of standing up — and then some. My flight times average no less than 10 minutes, and I still have some electrons left on my LiPos by the time I land.

And, while FredE is in his element doing figure-eights across the sky, he does have a few tricks up his sleeve. Read on.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

It's not like the FredE is boring — far be it from it — but sometimes, it's time to get a bit crazy and step out of the comfort zone. And, while this kind of plane doesn't look like it can do much than putt up and down the flight line, it does have the ability of getting wild and wooly — all in relative terms, of course.

Inside loops are a bit of an exercise in futility. You will need plenty of airspeed to enter them, and by the time you're halfway there, there will be a tendency for the plane to stall or snap out of them (that's a similar trait from the ever-tranquil MudBug as well). So, with some speed, they are doable, but they're often not too pretty. And, needless to say, inverted flight is therefore also another futile exercise.

Rudder-induced maneuvers, on the other hand, are quite the hoot. Despite its size and deflection, the rudder is amazingly effective (hence the need for dual rates). Snap rolls are more than doable by burying the right stick in one of the bottom corners. It will snap on a dime and roll like the best — it will also lose altitude quickly if you're not careful, but again, that's the same aftereffect as when coming out of a loop. It just doesn't like to be upside down one bit.

Hammerheads and other stall-based maneuvers are easy to do as well. With the help of the extra-effective rudder, it wastes no time in getting swung all over the place.

But, in the spirit of saving the best for last, spins is where it's at. Those are the most fun of the bunch — and the most unexpected of the bunch as well. With plenty of altitude (again, you'll need your fair share of buffer zone, as the plane takes a while to recover), hit the sticks to the bottom corners and leave them there. FredE will tuck tightly and spin madly until you put the sticks back into neutral. Just remember to factor in for being one extra mistake high.

And, of course, touch-and-gos with such a bouncy landing-gear setup can also be the source of great entertainment. They are fun, and they almost look like a touch-and-go-and-touch-and-go-and-touch-and-go as you hop all along the runway. Needless to say, you might be turning a few heads with such a quirky show.

Is This For a Beginner?

I'd say so. As with just about every Stevens Aeromodel release, the build process is relatively fool-proof, and this specific release is even easier to assemble. It is, just all of the diddle-series planes, a perfect introduction to the wonderful world of balsa kits.

In the air, it's safe to say it's an easy-to-fly plane as well. There are no odd tendencies as long as it has been built correctly, and it's a gentle flyer if I ever saw one. Trimmed out with tame surface throws, I don't see a reason why it couldn't be a first-timer's plane. It's has plenty of self-correcting attitude, and it doesn't zip along too fast.

Now, of course, someone might claim that it's a balsa plane and that it might implode upon impact. Valid point, but here at Here at the Monasterio Electric Aerospace Institute and Crash Test Facility© (motto: "Electrons Rule, Yet Gravity Always Laughs Last"©), we did put that argument to the test. There was an unexpected rendezvous with a rogue chain-link fence, and things could have been ugly. Instead, all that broke was a prop, and the only damage sustained was a small crack on the wing's leading edge. A bit of CA and some clear tape (and a new prop, of course), and it was time to get back to business.

Furthermore, the landing gear is designed with beginners in mind, and the rubber bands offer plenty of forgiveness in case of a rough landing. That, in itself, may be the strongest advocate for those new to the sticks.

Flight Video


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Scale planes, I must admit, are a dime a dozen (and I probably have a dozen of them to speak of, too). And, if variety is in fact the spice of life, then I want some of it. So, having something as esoteric as FredE in the hangar is indeed a welcome change from the rest of cookie-cutter releases out there.


I would like to thank the following for making this review possible: Stevens Aeromodel for providing the kit and foam cockpit; Castle Creations for providing the Pixie 20P speed controller; Hobby-Lobby for providing the Hitec HS-55 servos; Birmingham R/C Associationfor its hospitality when we shot footage for this review; and fellow authors and good friends Andy Grose and Gary Grose for the great photos and videos.

In the workbench, it was a pleasant build. On the ground, charm abounds. And in the air, your blood pressure may very well drop as you lazily maneuver FredE on a calm evening. It is pleasant, it is charming and it may very well have blood-pressure-lowering powers. Can you ask for more? Sure you could — but that would be downright selfish.

I enjoy taking FredE out for quiet strolls across the flight line. It's a head-turner if I ever saw one, and the club members still say I bring "the most interesting stuff" to the field — in no less part thanks to this War Eagle plane.


  • Great-quality design, and the kit comes with all the hardware necessary.
  • Assembly is enjoyable and suitable for a beginner.
  • Light wing loading translates to floatiness.
  • In the air, it's mostly relaxing yet has a knack for mild R 'n' R.
  • Durable enough for a first-time pilot, especially because of all the light reinforcements and landing-gear setup.
  • Accepts inexpensive electronics.
  • Funkiness levels are off the charts.


  • Takeoffs can be a bit tricky.
  • I would like to see a stock setup (or at least an option) for a brushless motor, as most people these days have gone down that route.

Last edited by Angela H; Dec 04, 2009 at 05:46 PM..
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Dec 08, 2009, 09:47 AM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Great review as always Napo - a unique little plane for sure.....

Dec 08, 2009, 10:15 AM
Yea..When mowers fly!
Jay-viator's Avatar
Yes, definately looked like a funfilled day.
Seems to be a really nice kit.
Happy Flying!!
Dec 08, 2009, 12:06 PM
Clinger, MAGA
rclark's Avatar
Nice review... It sure is fun to fly. I will be trying the 'maneuvers' above the next time I get a chance to fly my Frede. (Way to cold now) . So far I've just done the figure eights and putt putt around enjoying the flight. The Frede is just that.... fun to fly and see fly!

Biggest thing I found is keep the pitch speed below or about 25mph (thanks to Bill Stevens for that suggestion BTW) . Now that probably isn't a problem with the stock motor. But I put a brushless 400xt on mine with a 3 Cell Lipo and started with a 7x4 prop.... then 8x6 ... it sure made for some 'wild' takeoffs and a couple of initial crashes. Once I backed off on the throttle, Frede settled right down -- should have been a big 'hint'. Finally settled on a 9x3.8SF after a few tests with watt meter and tach. Frede is now a docile bird on takeoff with plenty of static thrust to boot. Putt putt putt .

Oh yeah, do use the low rates too for your initial flight(s). As said above the rudder has plenty of authority!
Dec 08, 2009, 12:16 PM
Registered User
Kmart's Avatar
It IS electric! Good job on your dummy motor, it fooled me!

Spectacular review!
Dec 08, 2009, 01:39 PM
Registered User

Great Review, Napo!

As always...and excellent review. Looks like I will need to find someone to build me one of these, too

Any thoughts on a brushless set-up for this little bugger?
Dec 08, 2009, 02:05 PM
Suspended Account
Excellent review, Napo!

And it warms my heart to see Bill still including those brushed GWS motors and gearboxes in his planes! That is part and parcel of the absolute charm of his lineup!

Looks like there's a FredE in my future...

Dec 08, 2009, 02:08 PM
Registered User
digdugb17's Avatar

Trexler tires

I agree with the comment about Trexler tires, there should be a National Trexler Tire fly-in. I use them on both of my Lazy Bees and they are just plan cool.
Dec 08, 2009, 02:25 PM
ground penetration specialist
Nathan Schmoekel's Avatar
Originally Posted by bighank13
As always...and excellent review. Looks like I will need to find someone to build me one of these, too

Any thoughts on a brushless set-up for this little bugger?
Brushless?? Why bother? As rclark discovered too much power is not of any benifit for this design. Looks like it flys great on the reccomended brushed set-up and with a 700-1000mah 2 cel lipo I'll bet the flight times are 20 minutes plus.
And another thing...the nose is short, so most modern brushless motors without gearboxes are probably going to get you tail heavy anyhow.

If you have a b-less setup laying around by all means try it, but I personaly would not spend the money for the "upgrade" for this plane.
Dec 08, 2009, 02:46 PM
Suspended Account
Originally Posted by Nathan Schmoekel
Brushless?? Why bother? As rclark discovered too much power is not of any benifit for this design. Looks like it flys great on the reccomended brushed set-up and with a 700-1000mah 2 cel lipo I'll bet the flight times are 20 minutes plus.
And another thing...the nose is short, so most modern brushless motors without gearboxes are probably going to get you tail heavy anyhow.

If you have a b-less setup laying around by all means try it, but I personaly would not spend the money for the "upgrade" for this plane.
A man after my own heart. These planes in his lineup that are built around brushed motors work flawlessly. As evidenced by the WAA 2008 SQuiRT 400 plane that is still going strong on a brushed 400.

Dec 08, 2009, 03:21 PM
Registered User

why oh why

why oh why did steve not put in a little dihedral, this would give more stability and smother turning power????
Dec 08, 2009, 03:24 PM
SB-28 UK Display Pilot
GeeW's Avatar
It doesn't need it. There is enough pendulum stability there as is.....and besides the full size doesn't have any dihederal. Search on Eric Clutton FRED.
Dec 08, 2009, 03:24 PM
Clinger, MAGA
rclark's Avatar
Brushless?? Why bother? As rclark discovered too much power is not of any benefit for this design.
Well, I agree ... to a point . More like to much pitch speed is not of any benefit -- in fact it makes it a terrible flier! In my case, I had the brushless motor on hand and thought I'd try it (was in a HL yak-54 3D foam flatty) ... wasn't looking for more power... and actually with the right prop the 400xt is working just fine! Oh, and there is plenty of room to move the battery around to balance. I actually had to move the battery all the way back to get it balance nearer the spar.

It doesn't need it. There is enough pendulum stability there as is.
I agree. At the correct air speeds it is very easy to fly. Hands off just floats along....
Dec 08, 2009, 06:45 PM
Registered User
thechannelmast's Avatar

Great Review Napo

i think it a little over price for a kit. it does look like it be fun to fly
Dec 08, 2009, 06:57 PM
Suspended Account
Originally Posted by thechannelmast
i think it a little over price for a kit. it does look like it be fun to fly
I don't know... considering that these kits out of SA are all cut from contest grade balsa, and come with all the little things like connectors and other little pieces (read that as full kit), $59.00 is very reasonable in my opinion. I've built kits costing lots more that I had to head to the LHS at least 2-3 times to buy balsa because the balsa that came in the kits was so hard it would actually break my Exacto blades.


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