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Aug 31, 2009, 12:58 PM
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***ROSWELL 29" and 36" EPP Deltas***


The Roswell is a EPP 29"-36" low cost, durable, elevon trainer with EPP elevons, and easily modified to great aerobatic combat design. It can be built with a front, or middle mounted motor. It is made from EPP and can survive the abuse a new pilot dishes out. It can be a quiet, stable, aerobatic small field flyer.

The Roswell can be flown by all levels of flyers. It is made from tough EPP but is still light weight making it gentle and able to fly slow for smaller flying fields. It will turn sharply without stalling making it easy to keep close. It is also capable of vertical performance and it can compete with any of the combat wings in both aggressive and evasive maneuvers. It can be built light enough to slope soar in light wind and also can be built as a tough aerobatic combat plane that can take the abuse of combat. It has a fully symmetrical wing making it fly as well upside down as right side up. It will do outside loops till the battery dies.

The kit comes as a 36" EPP symmetrical wing that is naturally a slow and gentle delta design. I have shown how to cut the plane to 29" span in the instructions for those who want a more swept design that also decreases the wing span and drag and increases the speed and roll rate. The Roswell DOES need rudders or fins. The builder can choose to build it with one rudder or two. It flies with almost no reflux to the elevons.

THE CG MOVES BACK AS YOU SWEEP THE WING!!! The 36" wing has the CG 7.5" back and the 30" wing has the CG back 9". We have found the laminated 36" wing flies best as a nose mounted motor because it is easier to get the CG where it needs to be. The laminated 29" swept wing is easier to get to fly with the mid motor since the CG is farther back on the wing but it is quieter and the motor is more efficient when the motor is on the nose of the plane. The Roswell will not fly tail heavy or without a rudder or fins.

We recommend the CF2812 motor with the 7x6 prop and the 3 cell 1300 lipo and a 25+A ESC and MG90 or HS 82 servos.

The videos below cut through the fluff and show what it can do. Can your delta wing fly like this with a $6 motor?

For more information go to www.crashtesthobby.com

36 Roswell - front motor (5 min 36 sec)


29 Roswell - front motor (5 min 45 sec)


(3 min 20 sec)


(10 min 36 sec)


(5 min 2 sec)


(3 min 12 sec)
[url]

(3 min 33 sec)


(4 min 57 sec)


Prototype Delta (3 min 26 sec)



.[/B]
Last edited by Lee; Apr 07, 2013 at 11:47 AM.
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Aug 31, 2009, 01:00 PM
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#2 Photos
Last edited by Lee; Jun 30, 2012 at 05:12 PM.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:01 PM
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#3 Cutting Foam Parts
Last edited by Lee; Jul 24, 2012 at 12:28 AM.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:02 PM
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#5 Radio And Carbon

The motor slot does not need to be cut if you are mounting the motor on the nose of the plane. The slot at the thick part of the wing decreases efficiency because the prop has to turn in such high turbulence. Although the mid prop is popular I think the front prop configuration with laminate is an upgrade to the performance of the plane while making it quieter.
Last edited by Lee; Jun 30, 2012 at 05:19 PM.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:03 PM
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#6 Motor Mount, Center of Gravity, Laminate, or Ultracoat

For those of you who want a mid motor plane be very conscious of the CG as you build. We recommend you sweep the wing to help you get the CG right.

We looked at all the options when we started kitting the plane and the stainless steel motor mount system from the Assassin was the easiest with the most strength. It is definitely overkill but for a beginner or in combat the overkill is good although it adds about 1 oz to the plane. Install the motor mount as follows.

Cut out the 2'x8" prop slot in the middle of the plane and the motor slot as shown in the pictures and on the video, then cut the angles that help smooth out the airflow off the prop and help make the plane look better. Glue the Formica to the bottom of the wing making sure the position of the stainless steel motor mount will center the prop in the prop slot. Cover the Formica with the laminate. You can either put screws though the stainless steel motor mount or tape the motor mount to the bottom of the plane with a strong reinforced tape or both. In the pictures below I used the screws.

The Center of Gravity should be 9" back on the swept wing and 7.5" back on the full 36" wing. If the plane is unstable at all move the CG forward and decrease the throws on the elevons. If it won't pull the nose up in a glide move the CG back. The plane is a better trainer with the CG forward and more aerobatic when the CG is farther back.


If you are going to use the plane in combat or do a few death dives into the ground you need to use some form of covering besides the shock cord. All covering adds weigh most if it behind the CG so be careful so you will have to add weight to the nose to balance the plane.

I have had Roswells I did not cover. On others I only used a couple of pieces of carbon tube or the bidirectional tape a long the leading edge to keep collisions from taking a chunk out of the wing. I have also used large amounts of bidirectional tape, or covered the entire plane with Ultracoat and laminate. I like the shock cord covered with the laminate best because it is strong but incredibly light.

The advantages and disadvantages are as follows:

Ultracoat is the heaviest but is strong and looks great. The foam has to be prepped with a coat of 3M77 or 3M90 that is allowed to dry before ironing it on. Laminate and bidirectional tape do not need additional spray adhesives to stick.

I like the bidirectional tape but it has a shorter lifespan. The bidirectional tape is easy but tends to discolor and dry out and come loose over time if not covered with laminate. Here are taping directions for the Assassin that can be applied to the Roswell.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...66&postcount=8

The laminate is easy and cheap but it has no color. The plane looks like raw foam which I like. The sunlight shines though the Roswell. Colored tape sticks well to the laminate so the cheap colored packing tape can add personality to your plane. Holographic or lens tape is also available at: http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Paper-St...34Q2ec0Q2em322 for a real professional custom look. Laminates add water protection to the foam. You have to buy laminate in large quantities.

If you use the EPP elevons you need to cover the entire elevon with a double layer of 3mm laminate or they won't be stiff enough to work. If you are not laminating you will need to use a balsa or coroplast elevons or install reinforcement rods in the elevons to keep the from flexing.
Last edited by Lee; Jun 30, 2012 at 05:32 PM.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:04 PM
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EPP Foam

I have built planes from every kind of foam I could find that was ridged enough to hold the shape. When EPP foam was introduced and it's virtues proclaimed I didn't believe it. I found it to be slow to cut and quite expensive. So the question is "Is it worth it?" The answer is a big resounding "Yes!!!!" Watch the combat and limbo videos and think about what you are seeing. Planes are hitting each other, the ground and the poles and the flyers pick them up and toss them back into the air. When damage does occur it is torn not a crushed. Most repairs take longer to heat the glue gun than to repair the foam. EPP foam is used in the construction of car bumpers by some auto manufacturers.

EPP comes in many weights. The most common weights in radio control are 1.3 lb per square foot and 1.9 lb per square foot. The Roswell wing cores are cut from the 1.3 lb EPP and the EPP elevons are cut from the 1.9 lb EPP.

EPP has a waxy surface that most tapes don't like to stick to. We have found that when EPP is wire cut it gets even harder to get tape to stick to it. This is why we are so excited about the new bidirectional tapes and laminates. They stick to the EPP without having to prepare the surface with a spray adhesive like 3M77 or 3M90.

EPP glues easily with a hot glue gun on a low temperature. Shoe Goo, Gorilla Glue and 3M77 are also frequently used but not nearly so fast as the hot glue gun.

36" Wingspan

The Roswell is sold as a 36" wing but is often cut to a more tapered 30" wing to increase the roll rate. It's like choosing to drive a sports car or a school bus. Both fly well if you have enough power and the CG is in the right place.

The Roswell passes the Corolla test by fitting easily in the trunk of a Toyota Corolla. It almost can pass the suitcase test. It can be flown with smaller motors and batteries saving weight and cost. It is less likely to cause injury if it hits something and is less likely to be injured because of it's decreased mass and weight. It is big enough for the old guys to see and small enough to be able to be set up for great aerobatics.

The Airfoil

I have used a symmetrical airfoil on the Roswell. It is thick enough a 1300 3S battery can stand on it's side with room to spare to protect it in an impact. The wing is cut from solid 1.3 lb EPP and provides incredible protection for the radio.

Look at the videos and see what our club put these planes through. We really do abuse these planes. The EPP foam is as good as you have heard and now we have some other building techniques that will make it even better.

Bidirectional Reinforced Tape

Bidirectional reinforced tape is going to change the hobby. An EPP wing is already tough but when you add the bidirectional tape it feels indestructible!!!

I like the bidirectional tape because it will stick without a spray adhesive. After it is in position I seal it with an iron that is as hot as I can get it without damaging the surface of the tape.
The bidirectional reinforced tape does deteriorate in the sun. It needs to have a covering over it. we are now including a plastic laminate covering in the kits that provides UV protection.

The entire elevon needs to be taped to make it stiff enough to control the plane. Start at the back and working forward so all tape edges overlap and won't peel up in the wind or sliding in on landing, top center and nose of the wing, then put a long piece of tape on the leading edge of the wing that goes wing tip to wing tip to cover all of the loose edges of tape so they don't start peeling up.

EPP foam does not loose its shape when it tears like white bead and blue foam. It takes longer to heat the glue gun than it does to fix a tear.

The Shock Absorber

We are using the heavy multi-strand nylon construction string to make a shock cord to absorb and transfer the shock of an impact to protect the plane. We cut a small 1/4" deep slit around the edge of the wing core with a razor blade. Use a small Phillips screwdriver to inset the nylon string in the slit. Use CA glue to secure it in place. The string is so strong it keeps the plane intact and also gives support to the spar in the forward and back forces of a collision. This adds additional reinforcement between the elevons which is the most likely place for a flying wing to break in a frontal impact.

EPP Elevons

The Roswell, has 1.9 lb EPP elevons taped with the bidirectional tape and then laminated to make them stiff. Without the tape and laminate the elevons are so flexible that you can tie them in a knot. With the tape they are almost as stiff as balsa. The tape needs to be on all surfaces of the elevons to get the rigidity needed for them to work. Even a small gap in the tape makes a big difference.

We hinge the elevons with the bidirectional tape or laminate with a 1" piece on the top of the wing and another on the bottom. Leave a 1/16" gap between the elevons and the wing. The bottom piece is applied while the elevon bent back flat on the top of the wing so the tape actually makes contact with the hinge tape on the top at the hinge line. This hinge works even when the wing is slightly flexed.

Laminate and Adding Color to the Plane


The laminate we provide in the kit is clear.
So the plane needs some color. If you can't see it you can't fly it. You need to be able to tell top from bottom of plane. Colors need to stand out in all weather conditions. We like to add a small amount of the colored packing tape, Ultracoat or my favorites are the 163 kinds of holographic tape from http://stores.ebay.com/Paper-Street-Plastics. Link to their 14 color sample packs. http://cgi.ebay.com/Glittering-Sequi...item1c0952f993

Carbon Spar

We use a flat spar because it doesn't crack under stress like the tube will. It provides great strength for its weight in the vertical direction and remains flexible in the forward direction to absorb energy from impact. It is also easier to install without special tools.

Battery position

The battery is mounted sideways in the upright position 4" back from the nose of the plane in the Roswell. The battery is the heaviest part of the plane and needs to be the ballast to achieve CG and keep the weight low. Batteries weighing 3-5 oz are common. The plane can easily carry the weight but every ounce added will decrease performance.

I like to bury the battery in the wing so deep that it can't be damaged in combat. Mounting it sideways protects the electrical connections, end and edges that can easily be damaged. Even though my battery is tightly wedged into the slot I have had several batteries knocked out in combat. I put a piece of tape or Velcro over the top to keep the battery in the plane. My servos and my receiver and my ESC are all hot glued only on the top edge into the wing. To get them out I heat the plane with a heat gun carefully so I don't distort the shape of the surrounding foam.

Radio Slot


I melt a slot with a soldering iron about 1.5" deep 3/4" behind the battery. I lay the receiver on it's side in the slot an extend one of the antennas up and the other down to get maximum range. You will have to do a little more cutting to fit the receiver and ESC in but keep it tight and buried in the wing to protect the electronics for combat.

Push rods

The push rods are long because of the delta wing design. I not only install horns on the elevons but use a plastic tube wire guide half way between the servos and elevons to keep the control rod from bending. The kits have push rods with an EZ Connector that adjusts and tightens with an Allen wrench. I like my push rods exposed. Rarely do the rods get damaged in combat. The rods need to be stiff enough you can move the elevon and turn the servo in both directions with the radio off. If you can't you will find that you can not control the plane in the air.

Installing the electronics

I use the hot glue gun to secure my servos in the EPP foam wing. I secure the ESC and receiver with a piece of clear packing tape making sure that there is some ventilation for the ESC. I use my heat gun to soften the glue if I need to remove the servos from the EPP wing. I have to make sure I don't get the foam too hot and I have noticed that the heat softens the insulation on the receiver antenna and it might pull off if you aren't careful.

Horns

We are using a 28mm stiff plastic control horn on the elevon.

Complete the laminate or bidirectional tape on the wing and tape the elevon in place starting with the top then fold it up and put tape underneath so the faces of the tape barely touch on the hinge line. I usually use a 1" strip of the laminate or bidirectional tape for the hinge bot top and bottom. It is very flexible and a good hinge and will still bend even when the wing and elevon flex.

Take your Exacto blade and cut a slit where you want the horn just big enough to slide it clear through the elevon. I usually cut mine back about 3/8" from the hinge line and 1" in from the middle end of the elevon in a place the elevon is the full thickness. (not in the bevel). Make sure it is pointing at the servo.

Slide the horn up through the elevon from the bottom.

Use thin CA and glue it in place. After the CA sets take a hot glue gun and put a 1" ring of hot glue around both the top and the bottom of the horn and spread it so it is smooth. To get this horn out you will have to cut the foam around it. It is much more secure in combat the the traditional horns.

Servos

I mount the servos on the sides of the prop cut out in the wing. I connect the push rods on the farthest side of the servo. Having the servo horns as wide as possible improves the angle for the push rods from the horns on the elevons.

The planes I use in combat all have the HS82MG servos in them. I like the metal gears. The servos take a beating in combat and ultra light servos will fly the plane but not take the abuse we pride ourselves on handing out.

One of the servos will plug into the aileron site on the receiver and the other in the elevator. You will then go into the programing of your radio and program either elevons or V-Tail for this plane. You will then need to play with the reversing and which servo is plugged into the elevator and which is plugged into the aileron until you get them to both come up when you pull back on the right stick, down when you push the right stick forward and right up - left down with right stick to the right and the reverse for stick to the left. Elevons are best controlled with one stick on the transmitter.

I highly recommend metal gear servos and servo savers for combat. I have had to replace a few gear sets when using the nylon gears for head to head combat.
Last edited by Lee; Mar 07, 2010 at 09:56 AM.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:06 PM
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Radio, Control Horns, Motor Angle, Trim, Reflux, Mixing, Servo Savers

My Favorite Components

This shopping list is frequently updated as new products are introduced and old products become hard to find. We have included links so you can see what they look like and know where to get them.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...51&postcount=1

We have seen planes used in combat strip servos gears. For this reason we recommend metal gear servos if you want your combat plane to be durable and reliable. I have seen people lose planes because a servo was broken. My favorite is the HS82MGs. They are a little more expensive but can take more abuse than any other servo I know of the same size. Several of the club are flying cheaper servos and using servo savers. They claim not to have trouble but it still makes me nervous in a combat plane. There may be others servos that should be recommended. Please make suggestions if you have other servos that we should recommend.

I like the new 2.4G radios and am pleased with their performance. I like not having to worry about frequencies and I like the small receivers. We are using the 6100e receiver because it will lay flat and I like the 3" antenna rather than the 41" antenna of the older FM radios. These receivers are not rated for long range but have been reliable in the 36" planes we are flying at the distance we fly even with 40 planes in the air with most of them on the 2.4G radios.

Most ot the import ESCs have worked well for this type of plane. Most of them don't run into problems until you get too many servos or have too big of servos that have too high of amp draw.

A customer gave us the idea of using the cut down 4 pin deans for the ESC to motor plugs. It is so simple and stronger than the plugs I used to use. I now use it on all of my planes. It also allows me to change a motor at the field in seconds. To reverse the direction the motor rotates flip the plug over. See the pictures below.

I have my favorite plane size and motors. Every plane I design is based on this motor design to save money. My designs also have to pass the Corolla test. (Does it fit in a Toyota Corolla trunk?)

Control Horns

We are making control horns out of 160 lb wire tie available at many hardware stores. These horns are so easy to get in and hard to get out that they make the perfect horn for the EPP elevons. We have tried the manufactured horns that are available on the market and you have to add parts to get them to attach to the EPP elevons. Look at the picture instructions for more information.

I had a question on how to replace a broken horn in the elevon. The answer is to not replace it just put another one in next to the one that is broken. I take about 5 minutes to heat the glue gun and 15 seconds to put it in.

I tried to get the broken horn out on one plane and about tore the elevon to pieces. I cut on all sides of the old horn and then still had trouble getting it out. That is a sign of a great (and simple) installation method.

Motor Mount and Motor Angle

The Roswell motor mount is either a wood ply plate mounted in the motor slot or made of 18 gauge stainless steel with holes punched to fit a CF2812 motor. The metal motor mount is heavier but the wood mount has torn out of a plane a time or two. Two bolts are enough to securely hold the motor as long as you use lock nuts or washers. It can be re-drilled to fit any motor you want.

Set the motor in line with the center line of the airfoil.

The motor mount will take some abuse. It is tough, real tough. I haven't even bent one yet in combat. The motor is in the back so most impacts don't affect it much. It doesn't take much to hold it on. Here are several ways I have thought of to attach the motor mount to the Formica plate.

The motor mount can be attached to the Formica plate with bidirectional tape, Velcro, drilling screw holes and screwing it in place, two sided sticky tape and I am sure some types of glue may work if you set it up right. Hot glue will not likely stay stuck to the motor mount because it is made of slick stainless steel and you would be gluing to tape that might melt with the heat.

Reflux and Trim

All flying wings and deltas have some up elevator built into the plane to fly flat and level. This is called reflux. Some manufactures and designers may claim they don't have the elevons refluxed but if you look at the airfoil they build it in the airfoil not in the elevons. If you line the bottom of the elevons up with the bottom angle of the wing you should be close on your initial trim.

Servo Savers

Combat takes a toll on the servo gears so here are some recommendations:
Use Hitec metal gear HS82MG servos or an equivalent servo.
Use a servo saver. This one is linear http://h1070313.hobbyshopnow.com/pro...sp?prod=DUB120
This one is round: (looking for link still)

Elevon Mixing

One of the most common problems new flyers have is getting their radios programed to fly with elevons. Turn on the elevon mixing on your transmitter. If you do not have elevon mixing an external mixer that is plugged in between your receiver and servos is available.

Plug the right and left elevon servos into the elevator and aileron positions on the receiver. Connect your control rods from the servo arm to the elevon control horn.

Make sure the elevons come up when you pull back on the right stick and go down when you push forward. The right elevon should come up when the right stick is moved to the right and the left elevon should come up when the right transmitter stick is moved to the left.

This all sounds simple but it can be confusing to program. There are eight different combinations of servo reversing and where the servo plugs are plugged into the receiver. Most of the time when some one is having trouble they need to change which servo is plugged into the aileron and which one is plugged into the elevator then play with the reversing on the transmitter to get it right.

When you are using elevon mixing the servo movement is divided in half for each function. You can only see full servo movement by moving the right transmitter stick diagonally.

Lay your plane on the table and measure how much the elevons move up. I recommend that you have half inch up movement in the elevons when moving the transmitter stick to the side and a half inch up movement in the elevator when moving the right transmitter stick back. I recommend you also have the same amount of down movement.

If you do not have enough movement put longer servo arms on the servo. If you have too much movement connect the control rod closer to the center of the servo arm or farther away from the elevon on the horn.

***NOTE*** On some brands of transmitter you will need to turn the "Travel Adjustment" or servo movement up in the programing. This is true of my Spektrum DX6i. The radio comes set at what the manufacturer calls 100%. They do not clarify that it actually can be set to 125% in all directions.

You have to adjust the right and left separately. It is done by moving the stick in the direction you wish to adjust indicated by the small arrow on the screen and using the roller to turn the servo movment up. The same is true of up and down.

I highly recommend you make this adjustment. If you don't it is hard to get enough servo movement to control the plane.


I'm getting more questions about programing the DX6i so here is another attempt at clarification:


In the Set up menu:

*Set the memory for the model and choose a name
*Go into Wing/Tail mix and activate Elevon.

In the Adjust list:

*Go into travel adjust and turn the right and left elevons and the up and down elevator to 125% travel. Each of the four has to be adjusted separately.

*At this point the servos should be plugged into the Aileron and Elevator plugs on your receiver and the ESC plugged into the Throttle.

*Install the control rods from the servo arms to the elevon horns.

*After binding both servos should move when you move the right stick either up and down or back and forth. This is the mixer working. If you turn the elevon mixer off only one servo will move at a time.

*The trick now is to get the servos turning the right direction. Try different combination of the servo reversing of the elevator and aileron on the transmitter until the servos are turning the right direction. If it won't work trade the plugs for the aileron and elevator servos in the receiver and try the servo reversing again until you get it right.

The up and down set up seems backwards to my wife. She wants to push up on the stick to make the plane go up. Here is the way the rest of us do it.

Pull back (or push the stick towards the bottom of the Tx) on R tx stick, both elevons go up.
Push R Tx stick forward (or towards the top of the transmitter) and both elevons go down.
Push R Tx stick to the right, right elevon goes up left goes down.
Push R Tx stick to L and L elevon comes up and R elevon goes down.


*I tend to have a large amount of movement in the elevons. Most of the new flyers use about half what I use. I have expo built into my brain and can be real gentle on the sticks.

*I recommend that new flyers set up dual rates and or expo for their first flights. If your radio is set to 125% on the throws set the dual rate or expo to about 70%.

*If you are a new flyer I recommend you spend a little time with a simulator before flying. You can find a list of simulators that we have found in my blog by clicking on my Wyle Coyote avatar. I also recommend you have a qualified trainer with you if you can. Let them fly your plane the first time and get it trimmed. I destroyed seven planes learning to fly. Let's try to get you flying well with your first one.

*The most important part of the first flight is the ground check. Make sure you have everything set up right so there is no slop in the linkages from the servos to the elevons and that the elevons are moving in the right directions.

*Practice flipping on the dual rates and trimming without looking at the radio. Looking away from the plane to the transmitter to find a switch or the trim can be fatal.

Good luck.


Another E-mail gave us this method of programing the DX6i using programmable mixing rather than just the elevon mixing.

"First, plug your right servo into the aileron plug and your left servo into Aux 1 (the Flap plug). I've only tried this on one plane, so I don't know if those might be reversed in some setups.

Then set your Wing Type to Dual Ailerons. Now check your aileron control -- it should work normally for an elevon plane (elevator is not yet working). If it doesn't, you'll probably end up having to reverse your plugs to make things work right.

Next, go to Mix 1 and set Elev -> Flap with both rates (D & U) at 100%. In my case that was -100%, but you may have to use +100 percent in your setup. Check function; at this point it should look like an Elevon plane with a boatload of travel. Don't fret about that -- the extra travel will "fix" your trim buttons! And don't forget to set "Trim" to ACT in the lower right corner of this screen.

Now, if you want differential it should work perfectly. If it goes in the wrong direction, you'll have to back up and reverse the plugs (move the servo in Ail to Aux and vice-versa) and redo the other settings to reverse them. Ultimately it means you'll have all the function back at the cost of a single mix.

But you get some payback for that mix: your Flap switch will now work! Probably the best use for it on an elevon plane is adjusting the elevons to max glide duration in case you want to do some thermals and don't want to try and see what the little bugger is doing at 400 feet...

Undoubtedly your elevon travel will now be too great. If you go to Dual Rates and reduce your top rate down at least to 80% of full, your trim buttons will now be completely safe to use -- the endpoint travel will not be greater than your allowed travel, so the weird "button effects" go away.

As far as I can tell, this is a complete fix. Would be delighted to hear if anyone hits a snag... also this leaves the option of another mix open (if you're using rudder and want a mix, or wish to do a throttle -> "flap" mix to get the torque roll out, for example)."

Lee this is much more complicated than the elevon set up, and I got lost in the process as he was telling what to do. I have never mixed any thing before.

He also set my flap switch to have more up elevator, he suggested it would help with landings, I think it may also help pilots taking off, more elevator without having to hold it on take off.

When it was all done I found I had to reduce my dual rate throws, my Assassin started snapping at the top of a hard loop.
Last edited by Lee; Sep 07, 2009 at 01:25 PM.
Aug 31, 2009, 01:07 PM
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