Originally Posted by Rotatorus

Hi Modfly,

Extremely interesting experiment you're conducting here. You're opening up posibilities here. I'm getting ideas already and I have not finished my build yet. The P-40N is as good as finished for the part of detailing. I still have to see about a pilot and I need to put some landing gear covers on the wings (some stick in decorative landing gear is a possibility). I already started to paintbrush the fuselage.

Looking at your enormous ailerons, I have to warn you about them. If they are starting just outside the wingsaddle you're risking burned out servo's when you have a bad landing and the wing shiftsand the aileron(s) get stuck... Just a small warning out of experience. You can't always make sure your landing is perfect

I'm looking forward to hear about how effective your ailerons are.

Robert

Hey Robert, I figured you drift into the thread to check the progress. Anything to do with Cox war birds usually draws your attention. Anyway, I'm not quite the modeler you are and I'm sure this is rude and crude for your eyes. I'm working on the ailerons now and I'm using what I have on hand so its not all that pretty to look at. This is my first use of the 1.5g servo so its taking me awhile to get it going. The servo will be in the plane and not exposed. The linkage brings out the bell-crank to the bottom of the wing. This is what I have so far.

Note, I went to dual aileron servos later in this thread. that is a much better path for this plane.


This was a very time consuming mod but I finally got it The hinges I used were way to stiff and I had to mess with those then the linkage had to just so. An incredible amount of patience is required for this small stuff but its very interesting to me and I love to tinker. The Ailerons seem to work pretty well now. The 1.5g servo jambed on me a few times even with no load. Finally I lubed it and the other two right on the screw drive with 1 drop of TFT lube from Radio shack. That seemed to stop all the oscillations and no more aileron servo jambing. I will try this as is to see what kind of throws are actually required. I have a lot of throw the way its set up now. I may redo this later with a dual servo setup as its really pushing the limit of the single servo to operate these ailerons. I may redo the hinges to as these are still a little too stiff for this small servo. I refuse to use tape so that makes things a bit more difficult but they are ready for a trail flight as is.

AR6400 receiver in a Cox micro war bird (0 min 54 sec)

I'd love a cox warbird to play around with.... guess i'll just have to wait and see what parkzone bring out in their new series.

Just an observation modfly - if you moved the upper portion of your aileron bellcrank system 180 degrees you'd have a much straighter shot from the servo

Originally Posted by minirips2

Yeah, I saw that, too. I was going to hook up a BA2.5 and see what happened, but was foiled by yet another proprietary connector! Just when I was getting used to mini JST for AR6300's! I'm sure that's a Molex connector (so's the mini JST). Maybe some resourceful individual will scrounge a P/N from Digikey.

Glen2626 has been selling them for months now.

Originally Posted by UNGN

Glen2626 has been selling them for months now.

Thanks for that link. Lots of nice stuff to liberate me from my burden of cash.

Originally Posted by rusty_y2k2

I'd love a cox warbird to play around with.... guess i'll just have to wait and see what parkzone bring out in their new series.

Just an observation modfly - if you moved the upper portion of your aileron bellcrank system 180 degrees you'd have a much straighter shot from the servo

I just bought a ARF Cox micro Corsair warbird NIB from a member here along with a few other airframes from Estes so there around and for sale.

Yea, I see what your saying about the bell-crank. I'm really thinking of adding another servo. That way I could do flapperons and or spoilerons to.

I measured a Turnegy 6amp esc with a 1N4001 diode connected to nothing else than the 2cell lipos.
It shows 4.7 volts(5 volts on other side of diode).
Is this because i use this specific esc or is it the diod?
I intend to connect it to a Vaporbrick.
Looking at the specs it seems the same besides 4001 is 50volt and 4004 is 400 volt.

Im really bad at electronics and shouldns be doing this

btw. Anyone know max voltage for the Vaporbrick ?
/Ulf

A good diode to use cheap and easy to get. Go to Radio Shack and
purchase 1N4003 diodes, they come in a package of 2 for $0.99.
The end of the diode with white band connects to your receiver
battery + input (white or red wire) and the other end goes to
BEC 5V output (red wire) of brushless or brushed ESC.


Someone posted this diode and I bought it but have'nt tested it yet maybe someone could tell us wich one is correct

TODD

Originally Posted by I R Irv

A good diode to use cheap and easy to get. Go to Radio Shack and
purchase 1N4003 diodes, they come in a package of 2 for $0.99.
The end of the diode with white band connects to your receiver
battery + input (white or red wire) and the other end goes to
BEC 5V output (red wire) of brushless or brushed ESC.


Someone posted this diode and I bought it but have'nt tested it yet maybe someone could tell us wich one is correct

TODD

Either one will work fine. Make sure the silver band on the diode is facing the receiver, like you said. They're both 1 amp diodes, which is plenty to power the brick and servo.

Mod, you're insane: in a great way.

Every time I come here I see you doing something I've only dreamed of.

Do you sell tickets to your shop? I'd pay to watch you work.

hay mr thewildweasel try J perkinns rc or even better try steve webb models then look for CC Lee you can get spare wings if you want better be quick because im geting some . go for it

Originally Posted by methuso

I measured a Turnegy 6amp esc with a 1N4001 diode connected to nothing else than the 2cell lipos.
It shows 4.7 volts(5 volts on other side of diode).
Is this because i use this specific esc or is it the diod?
I intend to connect it to a Vaporbrick.
Looking at the specs it seems the same besides 4001 is 50volt and 4004 is 400 volt.

I'm really bad at electronics and shouldns be doing this

btw. Anyone know max voltage for the Vaporbrick ?
/Ulf

Thats a no load voltage your reading. Under load connected to the AR6400 it reads 4.1v. The Max recommended voltage for AR6400 is 4.2v.

Originally Posted by melcrose

Mod, you're insane: in a great way.

Every time I come here I see you doing something I've only dreamed of.

Do you sell tickets to your shop? I'd pay to watch you work.

Well thanks mel I do enjoy tinkering with this stuff and I'm all to happy to share my work with others of like interest here. I'm fortunate to be able to pursue my r\c interests nearly every day

Sorry no video yet but I'm happy to say that the aileron mod is a total success I was able to control the plane in 8mph wind (measured) with no problem. I did several rolls despite the wind and was able to land and take off with ease. I tried a E-Flite 430 mah lipo and that worked pretty good. Its the same weight as the 20c 350mah lipo (1oz.) The plane gained some weight with the aileron mod. .5oz or 14 grams. The plane now weighs 3.5oz and has a AUW of 4.5oz. Keep in mind this is a 4 channel plane with landing gear and steering tail wheel. I flew the stock P-47 afterwards and it feels like a brick at 5.8 oz compared to the 4.5 oz P-47. However, It did fly well despite the heavy wind and it will remain stock.

Thanks guys.
yes i have oriented it the way You describe ( i think i checked against the pics about 5 timed before powering up )
I hope the Vaporbrick is really as similar as it looks to the AR6400 and i'll connect it when i get home from work.
/Ulf