That's what I do now too.

Originally Posted by hone1er

I put Welder glue on my servo screws(similar to shoe goo), it seems to do the job

I was going to use a tap designed for plastic that forms, not cuts. When I posted I wondered if someone was going to pick up on that point. Yes, you are right about material removal not aiding the strength.

Originally Posted by SteveT.

Better not to run a tap into a ball link, as the tap cuts the material out, while a rod doesn't. Best bet is to use a known good rod and thread it into your ball links, then thread them onto the others. One trick I use to install ball links, is to stick one end of a control rod into a battery drill and run the rod partway in to get it started....then remove it, and thread it onto the rod I am going to use...

SteveT

If anyone has a 70" FB GAS canopy they aren't using I really need one! Please pm me if you have one. 3dhs is out of them. I can get a red one, which I might do and integrate it in with some custom vinyl or something but I'd rather have a blue one.

Mine exploded off this morning during a full throttle slow roll. It was like blue plastic confetti Cool to watch but now what? lol.

I just googled M3 thread forming tap. found one at RC Planet

http://www.rcplanet.com/Tamiya_Formi...p/tam54232.htm

Cheap insurance

Originally Posted by alfabeast

I was going to use a tap designed for plastic that forms, not cuts. When I posted I wondered if someone was going to pick up on that point. Yes, you are right about material removal not aiding the strength.

Originally Posted by alfabeast

I was going to use a tap designed for plastic that forms, not cuts. When I posted I wondered if someone was going to pick up on that point. Yes, you are right about material removal not aiding the strength.

Yeah, if the threads are the correct size and sharpness then no need to tap or form. Only issue I had was on a pair of V1 51''s the threads were flattened and would slip a bit. Almost lost my first 51 on the maiden when the trim kept moving. Of course it was on the elevator. I replaced the rod.

Originally Posted by alfabeast

I just googled M3 thread forming tap. found one at RC Planet

http://www.rcplanet.com/Tamiya_Formi...p/tam54232.htm

Cheap insurance

The rods are only M2.5...not M3....(at least for the 7X" planes)

SteveT

I think the 50cc is m3, lot bigger than my 30cc.

on this one the cross bolt loosened up and that was all she wrote. Right into a tree stump from 30 ft high.

Grainger has some nice m2.5's

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OSG-Hand-Tap-6VYP6

Or I could buy a 50 cc to go with the M3 tap!

Originally Posted by SteveT.

The rods are only M2.5...not M3....(at least for the 7X" planes)

SteveT

Originally Posted by alfabeast

Grainger has some nice m2.5's

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OSG-Hand-Tap-6VYP6

Or I could buy a 50 cc to go with the M3 tap!

There you go.....either way!!

SteveT

Originally Posted by losifanatic

How does the 70 velox compare to the 68?

I have had both, I think they fly pretty much the same. My 70 has faster/better servos, but otherwise the aerodynamics of the two feel the same to me. I talked briefly with Ben at the Missouri FLI and he said that the aerodynamics were unchanged as well.

Suck!

I put a dab of hot glue in each screw recess after the screw is secured. It just peels out if you need to get at the screw.

Originally Posted by robj

Well the aerial recon with the T-28 worked. I walked right to the plane. But it was a mess. But it was better than a lawn dart. It caught a tree, most of the plane stopped, many parts did not. But this is good. The front of the plane didn't hit the tree, so the cowl, batterys, and front kept going, it unplugged all the power so my hyperions are sitting at a balanced 16v instead of being drained all night. Servos all still good, RX, bec pro, all intact even though some was scattered. Gear survived, cowl is usable but chipped. Rudder/elevator could be reused. wings and darn wing tube toast. I gutted it at the site and took what I could.

It was a good plane for the $175 arf. this is the one that I got with the front blown out for $75. But also got another fuse with a UPS crushed tail. I spliced the 2 together and been flyng it for a year. Picked up a set of wings from Randily for $100. Gear is from a Vyper I think.

Oh and what happened....drum roll?? The elevator control screw had back out enough to allow the horn to disengauge from the spline. The screw was still in the servo. So who is checking those screws tonight? Actually this is the last 30cc plane I had where I have not converted to the metal arms that have the servo screw AND the pinch screw.

Probably with go with another 71, but will be taking a look at the new Velox, yellow, red, pretty plane!

Ok this may be a stupid question! Knife Edge Mix( Rudder/Elevator) do you put this on a switch so when you are going to do a knife edge you flip the switch or is this something that you always use no matter what. The reason I ask is because I had this in and it seemed like my plane flew great while doing a knife edge but while doing anything else it was all out of whack!

Originally Posted by hertzrepkeith

Ok this may be a stupid question! Knife Edge Mix( Rudder/Elevator) do you put this on a switch so when you are going to do a knife edge you flip the switch or is this something that you always use no matter what. The reason I ask is because I had this in and it seemed like my plane flew great while doing a knife edge but while doing anything else it was all out of whack!

Should be on all the time..

Got the motor mounted up 3/4" of spacer = about 5/32" spinner gap.