3D Hobby Shop 71" AJ Slick - Build & Fly thread - Page 875 - RC Groups
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Feb 20, 2011, 01:36 PM
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theKM's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcbirk21
Is that from the US warehouse or the chinese warehouse?
from the US warehouse... they're stocking a lot more packs now too.
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Feb 20, 2011, 01:48 PM
Barefoot Birkinsomething
rcbirk21's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by theKM
from the US warehouse... they're stocking a lot more packs now too.
sweet. really wish they would start to stock the nanos as well
Feb 20, 2011, 03:18 PM
Registered User
jsmith285's Avatar
71 going together
Feb 20, 2011, 03:24 PM
Barefoot Birkinsomething
rcbirk21's Avatar
by all means correct me if im wrong jim, but those look like some servos that are better than 985's
Feb 20, 2011, 03:59 PM
Registered User
robj's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnnyrocco123
So you plug in you motor battery with the throttle stick at full, and then you gradually move up the end point % toward 100 until you hear the beep.

Then you move the stick all the way down and gradually increase % until it arms.



Do I have this?
I don't know how mine is set up but I use a low idle on the gear switch. So before I take off the prop s spinning at a low rate. Any move of the stick gives me more. I have all my 3dhs planes set up like this.

try it.
Feb 20, 2011, 04:04 PM
Registered User
robj's Avatar
BTW I did find the tail heavy spot on my 70 yesterday. The 8s 2x3600 40c turnigys weigh in at 29oz. I bought these 3 hyperion 2600 from an addict and they are a lot lighter. 9oz to be exact. I move the battery up a bit but wanted to keep it under 2 straps. Well after take off I had about 4-5 clicks of down trim to deal with. Hovered a little easier with maybe the lighter plane and probably more because of the cg. It flew fine but the landing was interesting. Had to come in a little faster to keep the tail up!

I may check it on the sticks to see where i was.

Also this was a maiden after the motor box replacement. No trimming needed with the regular battery packs.

In the pic you can see the normal placement of the heaver setup.

Rob
Feb 20, 2011, 04:22 PM
Pain? I know pain!
I just started building my 71" today (Yea!!!) and second step stopped me cold in my tracks. I tried to install the tail wheel and one screw only goes in about 1 1/2 to 2 turns, the second about 4 or so. I tried to torque them a bit and they feel like they are bottoming out or the threads are not cut through. The screw comes out clean with no thread damage. Don't know what to do and do not have a tap this small.

Help!!!

See pictures,

Tom
Feb 20, 2011, 04:24 PM
No one has more fun than me
aerosheldon's Avatar
It is probably glue in there and a tap is the best/safest way to clean it out.
Feb 20, 2011, 04:44 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by litespeed
I just started building my 71" today (Yea!!!) and second step stopped me cold in my tracks. I tried to install the tail wheel and one screw only goes in about 1 1/2 to 2 turns, the second about 4 or so. I tried to torque them a bit and they feel like they are bottoming out or the threads are not cut through. The screw comes out clean with no thread damage. Don't know what to do and do not have a tap this small.

Help!!!

See pictures,

Tom
Hi Tom

First, take an undersized drill bit, and carefully drill through the blind nut. Make sure it is undersized, and you go slow, as you don't want to mess up the threads. Then take a screw the same size and thread a nut onto it (to "clean the threads when it is taken off) then grind a short taper (about .125" to .187") onto it. Then using a abrasive "cut-off" wheel in a Dremel tool, cut two grooves (one on each side) length-ways on the screw. Take the nut off, cleaning the threads. Basically you are making a tap. Then carefully work the screw into the hole, do not push on it, as you do NOT want to push the blind nut out inside the fuselage.

SteveT
Last edited by SteveT.; Feb 20, 2011 at 07:59 PM.
Feb 20, 2011, 04:49 PM
fmidgett's Avatar
Wow. Great tip. Cool!
Feb 20, 2011, 04:52 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fmidgett
Wow. Great tip. Cool!
I know I can't give flying tips, as I can't fly like a lot of the guys, so, I help with building tips when I can. A person does tend to learn a little in 52 years (off and on) of building...

SteveT
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Feb 20, 2011, 05:23 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcbirk21
Is that from the US warehouse or the chinese warehouse?
USA Warehouse
Feb 20, 2011, 05:25 PM
Registered User
soundchaser's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith285
71 going together
Hey Joe,
Those don't look like 985's you're putting in there?
Feb 20, 2011, 07:16 PM
Yeeah buddy!
PinkYakRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith285
71 going together
Nicey nicey!
Feb 20, 2011, 07:18 PM
Yeeah buddy!
PinkYakRC's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Draknkep
Hi Tom

First, take an undersized drill bit, and carefully drill through the blind nut. Make sure it is undersized, and you go slow, as you don't want to mess up the threads. Then take a screw the same size and thread a nut onto it (to "clean the threads when it is taken off) then grind a short taper (about .125" to .187") onto it. Then using a abrasive "cut-off" wheel in a Dremel tool, cut two grooves (one on each side) length-ways on the screw. Take the nut off, cleaning the threads. Basically you are making a tap. The carefully work the screw into the hole, do not push on it, as you do NOT want to push the blind nut out inside the fuselage.

SteveT
Ahhh...reminds me when I lost a blind nut into the fuse on my 68" Velox....then I did it again on my 70" Slick...


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