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May 17, 2010, 01:09 PM
Registered User
Yep, sure was a great price and great service. Got thorugh on the phone
and Ben is sending one out!!!!! I may just get to maiden this thing this weekend. By the way this is my second 70"Slick. The first one was electric
and was totaly destroyed except servos. I was coming in for a landing
on base leg and lost all control. My bet was the bec quit working on the ICE 100 I was using but I'll never Know.

Thanks for all the help guys and i will try not to be a stranger

James
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May 17, 2010, 02:03 PM
Just "hanging" Around
3D-Dabbler's Avatar
I think the same thing happened to me. My best interpretation of the ICE 100 data log is that it rebooted while I was in a harrier pass.

My servos were intermittently getting noisy even though I can't seem to find any binding. So, I suspect that I may have exceeded the BEC current limit momentary and it rebooted.

That is why I lost control and it was completely unresponsive while it was rebooting and then I got some limited control back just before impact which saved the plane frankly. It was going in completely vertical.
May 17, 2010, 02:26 PM
Registered User
Mine also ended up going in vertical(nose first) I was flying 72mhz
when it happened but no glitches at all just no response.
If i were to do it in electric again, I would use an rx pack because I
also had an incident with a 47" Edge where the battery (zippy 3s2200)
had a cold solder joint from the tab to the circuit board come loose
and it also went in nose first. Oh well out with the old in with the new!!

James
May 17, 2010, 02:42 PM
iumop ap!sdn w,I
G.P.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 500melon View Post
Mine also ended up going in vertical(nose first) I was flying 72mhz
when it happened but no glitches at all just no response.
If i were to do it in electric again, I would use an rx pack because I
also had an incident with a 47" Edge where the battery (zippy 3s2200)
had a cold solder joint from the tab to the circuit board come loose
and it also went in nose first. Oh well out with the old in with the new!!

James
That could happen with the Rx pack too.

I'm running a 2s lipo with a castle BEC to power my servos and Rx, and I can't believe how little power a flight is using. Four 5-6 minute flights is only around 200 mah!
May 17, 2010, 02:45 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.P. View Post
That could happen with the Rx pack too.

I'm running a 2s lipo with a castle BEC to power my servos and Rx, and I can't believe how little power a flight is using. Four 5-6 minute flights is only around 200 mah!
Very true, I guess no matter what way your setup you can always have a failure.

James
May 17, 2010, 06:08 PM
Pants on the ground
xsubsailor's Avatar
I've been using a gp lifesource rx pack for $26.00 it's a life battery no need for a regulator lower voltage than a 2s lipo very happy so far
May 17, 2010, 09:05 PM
Loving Life!!!
jwilson32's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by xsubsailor View Post
I've been using a gp lifesource rx pack for $26.00 it's a life battery no need for a regulator lower voltage than a 2s lipo very happy so far
Link?
May 17, 2010, 10:18 PM
Pants on the ground
xsubsailor's Avatar
They are made by great planes and sold at tower hobbies lifesource rx batts 2s 1100 mah is what I use
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXYAS7&P=ML
Last edited by xsubsailor; May 17, 2010 at 10:23 PM.
May 17, 2010, 10:21 PM
Aerobatic Fanatic
HugoCraft's Avatar
Here:
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...93p?&C=MCD&P=7

I'm using the 2100mah one but I burned up two throttle servos. First the HS-5245MG digital so then switched to the analog version which is the HS-225MG. Alot of people have had good luck with that one but I burned that one up too. Both just stopped working so I went overkill and got the HS-7940TH since I know it can take the extra .5v since the life battery is about 6.5v charged. Also it has "(8) O-Rings for Water/Dust/Fuel protection" and I have the servo directly behind the carb like most people which does spit fuel sometimes.

But I love flying gas and have no regrets other than my electrics sometimes never make it out of the truck at the field now....sometimes.....
May 17, 2010, 11:01 PM
OOPS
Manta1's Avatar
http://www.hobbico.com/radioaccys/hcam6415.html

these are what I have in my 70 slick and 65 vyper.1000mah.I fly prolly 6 flights then charge,never used half of a pack between charges yet.I get mine from Hodges Hobbies.
May 18, 2010, 02:56 AM
3D Wanna Be
sk8rob's Avatar
Got 4 packs through my 70" today....I love this plane. It's so gentle and easy to fly. Everything happens in slow motion.

Anyway, I'm having a problem with my prop nut...it keeps coming loose. I have the A50-16L hacker motor, elite spinner, and 20x10 Xoar prop. There are no grooves on the spinner backplate, so the prop slides when I try to tighten it. Also, the motor turns while trying to tighten it. Any suggestions?
May 18, 2010, 03:13 AM
Registered User
brucewsb's Avatar
I cut a section of heat shrink then split it length wise and cut it to a circle about the size of a quarter (or diameter of prop adapter washer). Cut a hole in the middle and placed it between the adapter and backplate of the spinner and as it tightens down it builds up enough friction to lock it down. Works great since its difficult to hold the can of the motor through the vent holes while tightening.
May 18, 2010, 08:38 AM
doh!
ryan_m's Avatar
I saw a post once where a guy cut a small disc of sandpaper and glued it to the front of the spinner backplate, and then you could use another on the aluminum washer that goes on the front of the prop. That should stop the turning problems.

Maybe clean the threads of the nut and prop shaft with alcohol and use a drop of blue loctite on it. That should keep it from loosening up.
May 18, 2010, 11:12 AM
Registered User
Scooter0509's Avatar
I posted this on Sunday night so in case you missed it here is a link. This was the testing for the Motrolfly 4325-340kv on 8S with an APC18x8. I think the numbers were good but I would like some opinions from people with more knowledge on the subject.
thanks,
Scott
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=7557
May 18, 2010, 11:33 AM
Team $CRILLA_VILLA
bajajrider's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryan_m View Post
I saw a post once where a guy cut a small disc of sandpaper and glued it to the front of the spinner backplate, and then you could use another on the aluminum washer that goes on the front of the prop. That should stop the turning problems.

Maybe clean the threads of the nut and prop shaft with alcohol and use a drop of blue loctite on it. That should keep it from loosening up.
yep, works great! get that self adhesive sandpaper from the hobby shop,its for the T style sanding bars. i use it on all my motors now.


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