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Jan 30, 2013, 12:07 PM
3d NOOBular
3DNater's Avatar
3/16 in robarts.

Lots of guys like to just use a hot soldering iron tip to melt out the old hinge. Basically you just cut off the hinge flush with the wood. Carefully melt out what is left inside with the soldering iron tip. Use a fairly narrow tip. I have read some guys like to clean it up just a bit with a drill afterward before gluing the new hinges in.
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Jan 30, 2013, 01:18 PM
Registered User
Dennis C's Avatar
For right now I will stay with the A50-14l It has been good in the Extra but the 7xs looks sweet.

UPS says Feb 6 for the slick

Dennis
Jan 30, 2013, 02:02 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
1/8" Robart hinge points......3/16" are for the 50CC size planes...as to removal, there are a few methods, but, a fine point soldering iron (preferably smaller than 1/8") will melt them right out....if you don't have a soldering iron that small get a piece of music wire and heat it to melt it out.

SteveT.
Last edited by SteveT.; Jan 30, 2013 at 02:10 PM.
Jan 30, 2013, 02:21 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
losifanatic's Avatar
1/8th is the stock size but l upgraded all mine to the 3/16ths as l liked the idea of a more robust hinge.
Jan 30, 2013, 02:26 PM
FlyGuy
ldhflyguy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveT. View Post
1/8" Robart hinge points......3/16" are for the 50CC size planes...as to removal, there are a few methods, but, a fine point soldering iron (preferably smaller than 1/8") will melt them right out....if you don't have a soldering iron that small get a piece of music wire and heat it to melt it out.

SteveT.
Hey Steve,
I'm curious. In case I need to remove these hinges some day, does "melt them right out" mean that they fall out, come out stuck to the soldering iron tip, get pushed in to inside the wing, or what? I've also heard about cutting around them with a piece of sharpened brass tubing. I think I would prefer not having the hinge point or bits of balsa wind up inside the wing/stab.
Thanks.
Larry
Jan 30, 2013, 06:07 PM
OOPS
Manta1's Avatar
Hehe ive had a hinge piece or two in a plane before. Heheh made a nice little rattle sometimes
Jan 30, 2013, 06:36 PM
Just go with the flow
goflyhighrc's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ldhflyguy View Post
Hey Steve,
I'm curious. In case I need to remove these hinges some day, does "melt them right out" mean that they fall out, come out stuck to the soldering iron tip, get pushed in to inside the wing, or what? I've also heard about cutting around them with a piece of sharpened brass tubing. I think I would prefer not having the hinge point or bits of balsa wind up inside the wing/stab.
Thanks.
Larry


I've recently replaced hinges in my 89 and 70 Slicks. It's tuff not to get any pieces to drop inside the control surface. I thinks using a sharpened brass piece to cut them out will make the whole a little wider than you'd like, unless you plane on plugging with round stock,not sure though. I melted mine out and it worked pretty goo. The most important thing to do when melting them out is to make sure all the metal part of the hinge is out before melting. If left in it will pushe the soldering iron to one side of the hole a bit, therefore getting the hole off center or a bit larger than you need. If you cut the Robarts out, make sure all the metal part of the hinge is removed, just go real slow when melting, go part way in then back out it will bring some of the hinge with it, the do it again real slow.
Jan 30, 2013, 08:20 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
The only way that usually will not possibly leave a piece in the surface is to use a sharpened brass tube in a drill bit...

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Jan 30, 2013, 09:41 PM
bryansifsof44's Avatar
Using a soldering iron worked great for me... replaced with Robarts.
Jan 30, 2013, 10:27 PM
FlyGuy
ldhflyguy's Avatar
Thanks Guys.
I'm sure that sooner or later I'll need to replace some hinges.
Jan 30, 2013, 10:47 PM
Registered User
robj's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveT. View Post
The only way that usually will not possibly leave a piece in the surface is to use a sharpened brass tube in a drill bit...

SteveT.
Have you actually ever done this? Not being ficious either.
Jan 30, 2013, 11:18 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by robj View Post
Have you actually ever done this? Not being ficious either.
Yes....before I learned the soldering iron trick.

I broke the top hinge on my 89" Slick and fortunately since I made the rudder removable when I built it, I pulled the music wire out and removed the rudder, Fortunately only one side had broken, so I cut the hinge flush with the vertical stab, then used a very small grinding burr in a Dremel tool to grind around the outside of the hinge to bring the diameter of the large part of the hinge down to slightly less than the diameter of the part glued into the vertical stab. I then took a piece of 3/16" brass tubing and again used a Dremel tool with a tapered grinding burr to grind the inside of the tubing to sharpen it, then filed notches into it to make "teeth" in the end. Then I put the piece of tubing into the drill and put the other end over the ground down hinge...I used the high speed on my Dewalt 18 volt battery drill, and ran it in. It did a great job of removing the hinge point....with no pieces left in the vertical stab.

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Jan 31, 2013, 11:26 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by StevePortland View Post
Steve would not want to put you out, but will take you up if your ok with it. Is a winter build and my first big plane. Not hard up but the basterd is asking to be finished. Love this forum, good people.
Steve got the motor today, again big thanks. Going to be fun this weekend putting a hart in this bird. Know you went out of your way and hope to pay you back some day!!
Jan 31, 2013, 11:34 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
No problem...always happy to help, and that one was just being saved until Bigfoot come out...

SteveT.
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Feb 01, 2013, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Quick question for everyone.
Pictured below is my current RX battery setup.
I do not run switchs to eliminate a point of failure.
As you can see I have a y harness on each Aileron port.
I am running a GensAce 7.4v 2600mah battery with 2 outputs connected to each y harness for redundancy and not to overload a single connector.
No regulator as both RX and servos are able to handle a full charged 2s Lipo
Is my single battery dual connector setup adequate or should I switch to two smaller (1300-1500mah) batteries?



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