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Aug 27, 2009, 09:01 PM
Team 3DHS
BoneDoc's Avatar
Thread OP

3D Hobby Shop 71" AJ Slick - Build & Fly thread

Newly updated:

OK, here they are. Per Ben from 3DHS

The new 25% AJ slicks measure 71" WS x 70" Long with 1012 sq. inches of wing area.

I think every single customer request ever made about the 70" Slick has been addressed:

The 71" Slick featured a carbon-carbon reinforced landing gear plate assembly with carbon tube fuselage stiffeners and heavy-duty fasteners.

The 71" Slick features 3" diameter main wheels.

The 71" Slick retains the pre-hinged and gap-sealed ailerons, but the tail hinges are no longer glued to allow them to be changed if desired by the builder (different brand, or do custom work like removable rudder).

The 71" Slick electric retains the extra-long hatch and cowl cutout for easy battery placement.

Carbon wing tube, carbon main gear, and carbon tail wheel are included.

A vinyl decal package featuring outline-vinyl graphics is included.

"AJ Design" mylar decal sheet and AJ throwmeter included.

Wing bags included.

All ball link/phenolic hardware.

AND. We are now building these aircraft at a new facility which is allowing us to raise the wood quality a bit, do a slightly better job overall...and offer the 71" in either color scheme for $389.99 plus shipping for now.

They are going live now, and are in stock now. The 71" uses exactly the same components as the 70" Slick, and flies essentially the same, which is to say just about perfectly.

Another fine work by IPSMotors

(6 min 24 sec)

(6 min 44 sec)

(7 min 15 sec)

(6 min 27 sec)

(4 min 41 sec)

70 AJ Slick Video #1 - AJ Uncut
70slick03 (4 min 38 sec)

70 AJ Slick Video #2 - 2009 IMAC Sportsman Sequence
70 AJ Slick Video #3 - First Huck

Component weight in grams / oz
Bare fuselage 767 / 26.4
Hatch 190 / 6.6
Cowl 142 / 4.9
rudder 70 / 2.4
Wing tube 54 / 1.9
Hstab+elev+joiner 193 / 6.7
Wheel pant 35 / 1.2
Carbon main gear 86 / 3.0
Wing, hinged w/ aileron 390 / 13.4
Tailwheel assembly 23 / 0.8

Parts List Added Courtesy of Matt (DaLoaf)

SLICK COCKPIT (Thanks to GP!!)
Last edited by BoneDoc; Mar 03, 2012 at 03:00 AM.
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Aug 27, 2009, 09:02 PM
blucor basher's Avatar
Note: We have made a few changes to the kit since IPS did the build videos. These few changes are reflected in the "build thread" posts below.

Instruction manual:

The 70" Slick manual is available for download as a .pdf file below.

NOTE about servo arms:

Make sure that your ball links do not contact your servo arms as they travel. We want to have smooth action and low servo-current draw. As pictured below, when using stock Hitec GRP servo arms, one way to do this is to cut or sand away the corner of the arm as shown.

Photo of Fantasy Blue:

Below is also a photo of the Fantasy blue color scheme on the 70" Slick, a 51" Slick is shown in the photo for size comparison.

Video added:

First video of Blue scheme added below. Setup:

Reaper GR60-XL
Xoar 18x8
Castle Hv-85
Turnigy 6S 5000mah 15C

70RBSlick01HQ (4 min 59 sec)


Canopy Hatch - Blue

Canopy Hatch - Red

Cowl - Blue

Cowl - Red

Motor box

Wing spar tube

Landing Gear

Pants Red/White

Pants Yellow

Tailwheel assem.

Main Wheels
Last edited by blucor basher; Aug 06, 2010 at 12:45 PM.
Aug 27, 2009, 09:03 PM
Team 3DHS
BoneDoc's Avatar
Thread OP
More info to come
Aug 27, 2009, 09:03 PM
blucor basher's Avatar

70 Build Thread pt. 2

The 70" Slick uses pin-style hinges.

The wing hinges are glued, gap-sealed and finished.

The tail hinges are unglued. On these hinges, we recommend the use of vasoline on the center rotating portion to keep your glue from making the hinge sticky. When hinging the tail, you can use hinge glue, polyurethane glue (gorilla or sumo), or 30-minute epoxy glue. For epoxy or polyurethane, use alcohol for cleanup. Note that polyurethane will bubble up out of the hinge for approx 30-45 miunutes and you will need to clean off the excess a few times with alcohol.

The control hardware on the 70" slick uses allen-screws and self-locking nuts to attach the ball links to arms and horns.

As pictured below, there is a rear-rudder servo option, for pilots who opt for heavy power systems. Space is tight for this install, and so the pushrod attaches to the inside of the servo arm, and a spacer may be needed between the ball link and the arm if you are using an arm with a tall installed height. Do whatever it takes to keep the pushrod from contacting the elevator at full throw.
Last edited by blucor basher; Aug 28, 2009 at 01:17 PM.
Aug 27, 2009, 09:04 PM
blucor basher's Avatar

70" Slick build thread pt. 3

Hstab and elevators.

Cut out the holes in the fuslage covering as shown. Slide the horiztonal stab into its slot. Align side to side with a ruler. Temporarily install wing tube and wings onto fuse and measure form the Hstab tips to the rear aileron tips, equalize this dimension to make sure stab is perfectly aligned (illustration coming).

Drip thin Ca glue onto the Hstab-to-fuselage joint. Again, we DO NOT remove any covering from the Hstab. Thin CA binds very well to both covering and wood. Allow to dry. Clean up any leakage with Ca debonder.

Install the hinge points on the elevators in the same manner as on the rudder.

Install the elevator with the joiner-rod first. Put some thick CA, polyurethane, or epoxy into the joiner slot on the other elevator before installing it. NOTE: the joiner slot is TIGHT. Trial fit once before doing it for real.

Install elevator servo, horn, and linkage as shown. If you use a very heavy power system, you can use a second elevator servo, this system can be done a second time on the other side, everything is mirror-image and the hardware is included. Our test aircraft use ONE elevator servo and we fly them hard.
Last edited by blucor basher; Aug 30, 2009 at 09:17 PM.
Aug 27, 2009, 09:04 PM
blucor basher's Avatar

70" Slick build thread pt. 4

The aileron installation is very simple.

Cut out the covering over the servo hole and the control horn slots as shown.

Use epoxy or polyurethane to glue the horn in, just as on the rudder and elevator.

Install the servo, using the pull-string inside the wing to pull the wire through.

Assemble and install the pushrod as shown, using the allen-screws and nylon locknuts. Check for free motion, and make sure the ball-link is not rubbing the servo arm. Cut away servo arm as needed.
Last edited by blucor basher; Aug 30, 2009 at 10:30 PM.
Aug 27, 2009, 09:06 PM
blucor basher's Avatar
Reserved 6
Aug 27, 2009, 09:28 PM
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Reserved 7
Aug 27, 2009, 09:35 PM
Registered User
jadamian75's Avatar
Hey Ben took all the front row seats. LOL
Aug 28, 2009, 12:00 AM
Check Your Bolts!!
JClark's Avatar
I just got off the phone with him a while ago and know what motor is going in one. It is going to be off the hook.
Aug 28, 2009, 02:15 AM
SkyHi Aerial
Daloaf's Avatar
I just ordered my CC Pro BEC, so all I have left to pick up is the motor spacers and I'm done buying stuff for the Slick. Now its time to start collecting parts all over again for the big Vyper.

Aug 28, 2009, 02:30 AM
Registered User
brucewsb's Avatar
I just measured my Scorpion S4025-12 and got 78mm from back of x-plate to seat of prop adapter. Looks like I won't need any spacers.
Aug 28, 2009, 05:50 AM
Team 3DHS
BoneDoc's Avatar
Thread OP
Here's a relatively simple way to install the Neu setup for those interested. Basically, just drill / enlarge the hole to allow the motor to fit (but not too large as to allow you to still drill the four supporting hole.

Then you mount the Neu on an aluminum plate (I just modded one of my other motor's X mount for this purpose)

Also measure out how long your mount needs to be.

Use an appropriate length nylon washer and rods found at Lowe's, and you're set

Last edited by BoneDoc; Oct 06, 2009 at 04:30 AM.
Aug 28, 2009, 07:59 AM

I like the videos

great job on the video's showing the how to put the slick together.

Very helpfull

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