Some pictures of me and my fleet. - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Jun 09, 2017, 01:21 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Erwin 5 Carbon
Wingspan 79 in
Airfoil HQW Mod
Length 44 in
Weight 56 oz
Controls Ail-Ele-Rud-Flaps
Current price online for a new one is: $799.00 Just the airframe
not selling mine just documenting price for future reference.

Podivin Composite Modelbau (PCM) is introducing some very unique ideas to the high performance sailplane market, and the Erwin 5 Carbon is a perfect example of this.

Starting from the front, PCM eliminated the nose cone, providing more strength to the nose and the fuselage as a whole, while reducing the overall weight. The two piece wing sits atop the fuselage and is taped in place. Yup, taped in place. Turns out, if you do it right (as PCM did), it makes for a perfect solution, easily releasing the wings if you have a "less than desirable" landing. And while we are on the wings, PCM added a little innovation to the wing skins as well.. They departed from the usual skin construction, eliminating the center portion of the sandwich, instead using carefully calculated cloth biasing and properly engineered and placed internal wing structures (extra sub spars and shear webs) to provide incredible torsional strength! The fuselage actually arrives as two pieces, joined behind the wing, giving us the proper fuse length, without the financial penalty of shipping around the world in an oversize package. The V-tail is fairly standard in its' construction, from the molded saddle to the pre-drilled mounting bolt holes.

OK, so it is built nice.. Yeah, well it flies even better.. From the generous flap spans, to the ailerons that reach way out onto the wing tip, flight quality was not sacrificed in any way on this model! The Quabeck airfoil is very slippery and just loves to have a little camber dialed in.. This adds up to a ship that has the strength and penetration for DS'ing, but can still be unloaded and cambered for sport flying in moderate conditions..

Erwins feature a natural finish on the bottom, and a variety of colors on the top.

A build manual! (pdf format)

Podivin Composite Modelbau
Last edited by DWA; Jun 15, 2017 at 08:47 PM.
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Jun 09, 2017, 01:59 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Span 3.3 meter with XL center-wing(129 inches)
Span 3.1 meter with Standard center-wing
Wing area 61dm2
Wing aspect ratio 15,8
Wing airfoil HD 45 mod.
V-Tail area 6,8dm2
Fuselage length 1610mm
Empty mass approx. 1500g
Take-off mass approx. 2150g
Wing loading approx. 35g/dm2
Center of gravity 103-110 way back is 115mm 105mm seems most common
Produced by Baudismodel Trinity F3F

Price new at Soaring USA: $1500 plane only,

Here are the versions of Trinity I know of.

- Trinity F3F - D-box - 3 meter - Carbon D-box wing, fiberglass fuse and tail
- Trinity F3F - Carbon - 3 meter - full carbon/balsa
- Trinity F3B Lite - 3.15 meter - double carbon/Rohacell
- Trinity F3B XS - 3.15 meter - Extra Strong carbon/balsa
- Trinity F3B X-tail - 3.15 meter, same as F3B XS version, but with an X-tail
- Trinity F3J - 3.2 meter - Carbon D-box wing, fiberglass fuse and tail

The F3F- D-Box version is best for general purpose F3F. It's significantly lighter, and turns harder, floats better, and is more nimble.

The Carbon F3F models have two different layups, primarly in the fuses. The heavy carbon fuse is increadibly stout, but heavy. The lighter fuse is strong torsionally, but not as rigid in the sidewalls. Also a swapped broken light fuse for a heavy carbon fuse, and had to add 4 ounces of nose weight!
The Full carbons have been coming in at about 92-94oz.....
The Carbon D at 87-88....
Some of the older Trinity models were 106
AUW (all up weight) 87oz's is better for light wind days- one other way to get your wingloading down if you want--order the F3J center panel! It adds 10" to the wingspan--with a 10" root-- tells you 100 sq" added with just a plug-in center panel, the plane flies nice and turns even harder with the larger center panel.

set up advice...
got about 30% down elevator mixed in, but use trial and error to adjust that. Just get it up high--pull crow and be sure it maintains a slight down attitude to keep from stalling when you are low to the ground. BTW-- I don't use crow--up ailerons--just camber for slowing--then flaps full down for landing with no up aileron-- works better for me. The up aileron cause's upward pitching from the nose-- So I don't use it.

A lot of guys shim the front of the v tail up.

some use (4) pieces of electric tape under the LE of the tail

At one time theTrinity held the US F3F record!

The control throws were set as follows, with the measurements at the tip for aileron and tail and wing root for the flaps
• Elevator - 5mm up, 7mm down o 25% exponential
• Rudder - 8mm up, 10mm down
• Aileron - 10mm up, 4mm down
o 60% differential in Multiplex terminology
o 25% exponential
• Flap as aileron - 4mm up, 1mm down
• Flap as snap – 8mm down
o Applied across full trailing edge • Flap as flap – 5mm
o Applied across full trailing edge
o No elevator compensation
• Flap as spoiler – 50mm down
• Aileron as spoiler – 10mm up
o Differential suppressed at full up • Elevator as spoiler - 5mm downNote: Sensitive elevator settings, model will flick if you're rude to it
Last edited by DWA; Jun 24, 2017 at 02:18 PM.
Jun 09, 2017, 02:10 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Aris F3F

Wingspan 117 in. (2.97m)
Wing Area 905 (58.4dm2)
Wing loading 12.62 oz/sq.ft. (38g/dm2)
Airfoil HN-483B
Length 57.4 in. (1.457m)
Weight 79.4 oz (2.251kg)
Controls Ail, Ele, Rud, Flaps
Current price online for a new one is: $1799 just the airframe
Not selling mine just documenting price for future reference.

Aris is one of the top F3F models designed and manufactured by Aerodesign of Slovak Republic.  Its advanced airfoil and streamline aerodynamic design ensure its top airspeed in various wind conditions. It has won many contests in Europe, USA and Asia. Its V-tail is removable and together with a two-piece wing, it is easy transportable.
The ARIS was introduced to the world in late 2004. Since that time this model has set the benchmark in quality. The contest record is superb. In the USA its the preferred tool for Man on Man racing and in F3F the results speak for themselves. Its durable, fast and transports easily.

The 2-piece V tail and wing control surfaces are built using "waveform technology" What the heck is that? This is a coreless structure with a corrugated inner structure all CO-molded and CO-cured. It provides extremely stiff and light structures. The main wing is carbon/core/glass and the fuse construction also has a surprise. It's all molded around a series of horizontal and vertical keels!

The model was in development for 2 years. Flight tests by F3F Euro Tour champions give it the seal of approval and top pilots all over the word have it. If it's good enough for them I hope its good enough.

I test flew it at Pt Fermin The ARIS is simply "the next level" in F3F models it is as fast as the trusted Acacia but handles like the F3F NYX. This combo is difficult to beat. It is a top class model in construction quality and demands a good price but you won't be sorry or at an equipment disadvantage to anyone.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 15, 2017 at 08:48 PM.
Jun 09, 2017, 02:14 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Wizard Compact 2X

The Wizard is one of the best slope planes in the world and the construction fit and finish is second to none. It is truly a work of art.
All Wizards are handmade in Slovakia by Milan Janek
Worldwide production is about 40 per year! His attention to detail has to be seen to be believed. look inside a wing before you install servos and you will see. These planes are as pretty inside as out.
This is a rare plane!
I think it was introduced in 2002 not sure when production stoped but I think around 2012

Type: F3F racer/ sport slopping
Wingspan: 2.5 meter (98 inches)
Length: 47 inches
Wing area: 770 sq/in
Airfoil: SD 2030 MOD

DS version has one piece tail. I do not have DS version.

The Wizard is a nice size, nice design and very high quality.

First of all and most important, this plane is just outright good to fly! It handles really well and can be set up in different modes by adjusting the centre of gravity. Take it far back and it gets very sensitive and very responsive on the elevator, but be careful, tip stall may occur in this mode. Adjust the CG to a more normal setting and the Wizard behaves very smoothly and gentle. Still you can have a lot of fun with it and this setting is good for Dynamic Soaring.

The Selig airfoil was not really my cup of tea but after testing it I must say it works really well. This little plane launches ever so good on the winch or with the bungee (with some wind). For the F3F task you might set records or even win contest with it.
For slope/sports soaring it’s a dream, it flies of any slope with a minimum of wind and does not mind stormy weather either.
I have used 13mm Volz servos, but the flaps can for sure take 15mm servos. In the fuselage 13mm is recommended. I guess a handyman can fit 15mm also here.

The wings is made of glass/balsa/glass lay-up and it is possible to get it in carbon also. Fuselage is made of glass/kevlar with additional carbon rovings for added strength.

The Compact now comes with a two piece wing and a two piece V-tail, that means very easy transportation. The fuselage is based on Ellipse 3 and has the same ballast system allowing up to 1000 grams.

by Slopeflyer on December 24, 2003 in Wizard Compact II
Wizard Compact 2x tips

I have had 4 Wizards and flown them a lot. I also asked other owners and perused the web for tips. Here is a collection of tidbits so far…

On a plane like the Wizard go for top-notch servos. I’ve used Volz, Multiplex and JRs in my Wizards.

If you want to do a side-by-side servo setup like in my building pictures you need a servo like the JR-341 non-digital or the DS-368 digital or a servo no larger than these. If you go tandem you could use larger servos but you have to watch for the ballast tube intruding on your available space.

The flap and aileron servos can be about as big as the Multiplex Speed Digi although I am not sure what the same size non-digital is called. Micro-Maxx Xs and Micro Maxx Xps can be used and with a little finagling, you can get the Volz mount in so you have removable, serviceable servos. Recent DS versions have been build with JR DS-3421.

If you are really going to go fast with your Wiz I’d add a shear web on either side of the servo and from the spar to the sub trailing edge. Tedious but the box section makes a very flex resistant structure. I have also just made a shim to wedge in between the servo and the bottom skin. This helps make it solid and is not as big a hassle as the shear web.

A Hitec Superslim receiver fits perfectly.

I use 4-cell 1400mah Nicad pack or a 5-cell 600ae pack. In the cold weather here in Wisconsin I do not trust any of the newer NiMh or LiPoly or whatever else the chemical of the day is. Cold really beats up on those batteries ability to hold a charge.

If you need control horns for your Wizard I found the HLWAN009 Wanitschek Low Drag Brass Control from to work well. I’d go bigger if you will DS it though. Etienne at Icare carries a 3mm brass horn that is nice and beefy.

Watch out for the ballast screw. It comes up into the receiver area if it is screwed in too far.

I love the Hoopes Harness ( Very tidy and saves me 2 hours of soldering.

Settings to start. Personal preference of course!

CG start at 95 back from the LE. I fly mine around 100mm back from the LE. Dave Reese likes his about 104mm back.

You will need some down elevator with CROW. If you have the full flying tail it is about 6mm at the Leading Edge of the stab.

If you set your flaps up right you should be able to get close to 90-degrees. Mine all seem to be about 80-degrees though.

I use a bit of up aileron in the CROW mode. Approximately 10MM measured at the tip. I also use a rudder mix when landing. That left thumb is prone to dumb moves when it matters!

The Wizard likes ballast on the good days. Don’t be afraid to load it up. Using lead I get about 24 ounces in the fuse. Plus I have a Winch Doc joiner that adds another 17 ounces! On 45 mph wind days this makes a very fast plane!
Last edited by DWA; Jun 12, 2017 at 12:05 PM.
Jun 09, 2017, 02:31 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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I have 2 models of the Opus. One yellow and blue the other white and blue.

Opus V review:
Not my review just one I was able on the Internet while doing research on this aircraft

Type: 2 meter racing/sport slope sailplane
Wingspan: 74.5"
Wing Area: 483 sq in.
Airfoil: RG14
Weight: 48oz
Construction: Molded fiberglass fuselage, Rohacell/fiberglass hollow molded wing
Controls: Aileron, flaps, v-tail (rudder/elevator)
Current price online for a new one is: $700 just the airframe
Not selling mine just documenting price for future reference.

The slick Opus looks a bit like an undersized F3F racer. It's smooth, high speed peformance has made it a popular slope sport plane in southern California. With so many 60" and 3 meter race planes out there, the 2 meter span Opus, along with a couple other planes, fills a void in the mid-size slope glider class. The Opus is big enough to feel like a larger plane, but small enough to be as practical as a 60" plane.

Wing: The wing is a single piece unit, with a flat center section and slight dihedral on the outer wing panels. The planform is a straight center section with elliptical wing tips2. Airfoil is the RG-14. The flaps and ailerons have live skin hinges, and are hinged on the top3. The hinge line is scored on the wing surface, so the hinges aren't overly stiff. There are no wipers, unfortuantely. Molded servo covers are included, though. The skin is a fiberglass/Rohacell/fiberglass sandwich, with a carbon fiber capped spar for strength (which it has plenty of). There is a ballast tube installed on the CG, which extends out to the flap servo bays. It holds 9 brass ballast slugs, which all together weigh about 10 ounces. The wing is mounted with a single metal bolt at the rear, and at the front with a curved tab that slides in underneath the fuselage.

V-tail: The v-tail is a single piece unit. It's attached to the fuselage with 2 nylon bolts. Construction is similar to the wing, though with no spar. The elevators are also live hinged (again with no wipers), and the ball link topped control horns are installed.

Fuselage: The fuselage is made of fairly thick fiberglass. It might have kevlar reinforcement, but I'm not sure. One unusual feature is the lack of either a slip on nosecone or a canopy. The only access to the forward fuselage is through the wing saddle opening. This design may be due to the Opus wing being shared by another plane, the Colt 2, an electric sailplane with a fuselage slightly wider, but with a similar shape to the Opus'.

Fit and Finish: Overal, the fit and finish on the Opus is excellant. The quality of the gel-coated finish, especially on the wing and v-tail, is essentially flawless (at least to my eye). The surface is mirror smooth, and the 3 color paint job is crisp and bright (you can get the Opus in a white or yellow base color, with a variety of trim colors on the top and bottom of of the wing). I wasn't sure about the fit of the wing to the fuselage at first, though. Initially, it seemed very difficult to get the wing attached properly without using some force to wrangle it into position. I couldn't really see any reason why this was happening, but as the wing was successively removed and reattached during the construction process, it got easier and easier to attach. Perhaps there was some extra material left in the wing bolt hole or in the internal nut in the fuselage that eventually wore away. Whatever the case, the wing now fits perfectly.

Construction: There really isn't much construction, since all the main components come built and ready to bolt on to the fuselage. In fact, the plane doesn't come with any instruction sheet at all. Actually, mine did include a printed copy of Doug Reel's highly recommended Opus V setup information web page, which provides radio installation, construction, and setup tips. Unfortunately, not all Opus V's seem to come packaged with this. With this information in hand, I proceeded to install the wing servos, install v-tail push rods, and build and install the fuselage servo tray (remember, there's no nose access).

Here you can just see the two bolts in
the nose that hold in the radio tray.
The bolt under the wing is for carrying extra
ballast in the fuselage.
I also did the "Doug Reel Opus flap mod," which is detailed on his web page. Because the Opus has top hinged flaps, they don't come down more then 45 degrees. I wanted to be able to slow this puppy down for landings on our narrow ridged slope site, so this modification was a must for me. Basically, it involves installing new flap control horns and cutting away a bit of the flap leading edge and the wing sub-trailing edge in front of the flap. This allows the flap to bend down without being stopped by the upper or lower wing surface. The drawback is that it creates a large gap between the wing and the bottom surface of the flap, but this is easily sealed with gap tape. My flaps now come down nearly 90 degrees, so to me, it was well worth it. Having bottom hinged flaps and molded-in wipers would be a much better solution though.

Flap modification Almost 90 degrees of flap
Flaps up: Note the slot
cut for extra flap travel. Flaps down:Almost
90 degrees of travel.
Radio Gear: For the v-tail surfaces and the ailerons I used JR 341 micro servos. Hitec HS85 metal gear servos were used for the flaps. For the receiver I'm using a Hitec Supreme 8. Everything is powered by a big 1400 mAh NiCad in the nose. That's a pretty big battery, but the plane needs the nose weight anyway. Actually, a standard-sized square pack 1100 mAh will work fine too. It's lighter, but it fits a bit further up in the nose and will actually reduce the overal weight of the plane by 0.5 oz.

Final flying weight for my Opus is 48oz. With the plane's 483 square inch wing, this puts the dry wing loading at about 14.3oz/sq the Opus is not a light airplane. That's not what I'd call excessive, but it is higher then the more typical 11-12 oz/sq ft loadings seen in most of the other slope planes of this size.

Flying: The first flight offered no suprises. The Opus is smooth and responsive, with no real bad habits. Of course, it's also very fast, even unballasted, and it retains energy very well.

I had heard that the thin RG-14 might not be able to yank it through pylon turns as well as an F3F racer, so I was not sure what to expect. With a bit of "snap-flap," though, the Opus will carve through the turns very nicley...better then my Renegade racer, in fact. It might not claw through corners quite like an RG-15 winged 100" racer, but it's turning peformance should offer plenty of excitement for the sport flier.

Despite it's weight, the Opus offers pretty good light wind performance. As with most high performance slope planes, in light wind you need to keep the nose down and keep the speed up, especially in the turns. Of course, if the wind is so light that the Zagis and floaters are struggling, then you might want to wait for the conditions to pick up a bit before launching the Opus. If you do toss it out in light wind and you happen to find a thermal, be sure to droop the trailing edge a bit, because the Opus responds really well to camber. It will climb out nicely in light thermals, which can really add to the light lift performance.

Of course, going fast is what the Opus is really about, and it does this very well. Even when flying level, the Opus is always covering ground at a good clip. Add some ballast and drop the nose for a speed run and it really goes! The long tail boom and generous tail feathers make it rock steady, even in a screaming dive, and the great energy retention means you can zoom almost right back up to where you started and do it again.

The above qualities also make the Opus a great plane for dynamic soaring. The stability keeps everything smooth and somewhat lessens the white-knuckle factor while in the DS groove. The great energy retetion makes it easy to continue circling on the backside even if you get out of the optimal groove. I learned to DS with my Renegade on a hill with an often tricky DS zone, where the boundry layer is constantly shifting and is often fairly close to the ground. I could sometimes get the Renegade going pretty fast, but in shifting conditions I would often find myself running out of speed quickly, forcing a quick escape to the front side. The Opus will generally shrug off this type of thing, retaining enough speed to easily circle on the back side in less then optimal conditions. When DS conditions are good, and you get smooth, fast winds, and a nice boundry layer, the Opus will be absolutley screaming FAST! It should be noted that in low wind DS, the Opus is really the most comfortable with fairly round DS circles, versus the "bang-bang" eliptical pattern with hard turns on the top and bottom. The plane tends to bleed off more speed in these hard turns then other planes (the Nemesis comes to mind), but it will do them once it gets going.

Bad Habits: Most tapered wing sailplanes will tip stall if you try to pull them too hard through a turn at a given airspeed. The Opus is no exception, though it seems to be more resistant to this sort of thing then the other fast slopers I've owned (Renegade, Turbo, etc). That said, when the Opus does tip stall, it will give very little warning, and it will quite possibly "flick" (as the Brits say) quite violently. The first time this happened to me, the plane appeared to do a full-on snap roll. When I tried to recover from from the first snap without enough airpeed it then rewarded me with another snap in the opposite direction. Luckily, this happend high enough above the hill for me to finally recover safely. The Opus is not a difficult plane to fly, it just does not telegraph much of a warning as a stall approaches. Care must be taken when flying at lower speeds until you know the limits.

Aerobatics performance is good. I don't have much flap mixed into my ailerons, so the roll rate is respectable, but probably not as good as it could be. The weakest link, though, is the rudder fuction, which isn't very powerful (stall turns require early and judicious use of the rudder, for example). I suppose this might be a weakness of v-tails in general, but this being my first and only v-tail, I can't say for sure. One thing that becomes quicky apparently when doing aerobatics is that making large control movements often result in a shrill whistling sound as the exposed leading edges of the control surfaces bite into the airstream. It's kinda a cool sound, but I know it's just wasted energy. Once again, wipers would really help. Overall, though, it's a really fun plane to tear around the slope. I'd say it's more suited to large, carving/gracefull aerobatics then it is to the more violent/wild type of manuvering.

Landing: Pretty straightforward here. With the flap mod, the plane will slow down nicely and hover when pointed into the wind. The flaps will extend just a bit below the fuselage, so take that into account if you are coming in on a hard surface with the flaps fully extended.

The more I fly this plane, the more I like it. It's quickly become my favorite sloper. So, if you want a smooth, fast airplane that's lots of fun, I highly recommend the Opus.

The origins of the Opus V are somewhat mysterious. Apparently, the plane is made in the Czech Republic, but no one seems to know exactly by who. In the USA, you can get the Opus through RC Direct. In Europe, or at least Germany, the Opus is distributed by Peter Adolfs Flugmodelle and Tunmodellbau.

PAF in Germany still seems to be selling a wide variety of Opus (Opi?), so it would seem they are still in production.

here the Opus V DS is $950

I'm not sure if they are exporting them anywhere though. As I recall, rc-direct was the importer for the US...maybe you can still order through them?
They have a Opus V DS listed for $1149

Important: due to the compact slide-in radio tray design and the 1-piece nose, radio installation requires an experienced modeler; the Opus's radio system is not appropriate for installation by a beginner. The absense of any radio installation instructions will underscore that builder skill is a necessity!

Note: this is the 1st generation Opus V sailplane, with the non-swept elliptical wingtips... NOT the 2nd generation Opus W, with the less-desirable 90 degree upswept winglets. Today, this original "V" version has been replaced by the heavier, reinforced 3rd generation Opus V "DS" dynamic soaring version. Both the light "W" and the heavy "V DS" versions are in current production, and are sold through RC Direct Gliders, in San Diego. Visit their website for more information about these highly-rated, premium-quality Eastern-European hollow-molded sailplanes:

An expanded set of high-resolution photographs has been uploaded to our business's website: Just click on the thumbnail to view, download or print each large & detailed photo.

Today, RC Direct quotes the Opus W at $637, and the Opus V DS at $1,187, including the radio installation kits.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 16, 2017 at 12:39 AM.
Jun 09, 2017, 03:34 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Tips for 2.4 install with carbon.
Spectrum DX9 & DSMX (which now is the same frequency agile type as Jeti, Futaba etc) and I can add 2 remote receivers giving a total of 4 in a glider in the past I have had the whiskers sticking out... usually 2 fwd of the wing at the 4 & 8 o'clock positions, one behind the wing at 12 o clock position and if req one sticking out the back of the glider... paranoid about loosing signal...

On Carbon Bird try moving the CG back some.

If you want it to go a bit quicker, reflex the ailerons and flaps up about (2.5mm)

If you want it to slow down a bit then move all surfaces (ailerons and flaps) down about (5mm)

If surfaces are not level check upper right switch.
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Jun 12, 2017, 11:40 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Hobie Hawk

One of those RC gliders that has a huge value because of all of the nostalgia stored in them.

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Jun 12, 2017, 10:39 PM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Good thread on landing.
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Jun 15, 2017, 12:03 AM
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As the glider's cg gets closer to neutral, it gets easier and easier to upset its flight path. Up to a point, this is good, for signaling lift and changes in the air you are flying through. All axes become more reactive. But when you go too far aft the glider just becomes twitchy and will not fly straight and level without constant inputs. Most planes get really sensitive to control input as you get the CG too far aft. It will feel like you are constantly trying to make corrections to keep it flying.
The reason that you will hear such a wide range of "what is a good cg" is mostly personal preference in flying style.
The dive test is a good way to check CG.
Put plane in a 45% dive then take hands off controls. If the plane steepens its dive it is tail heavy. If it stays straight it is neutral. If it pulls out of the dive a little it is ok. If it pulls out of the dive a lot it is nose heavy.
This is a little opposite of what you might think. Nose heavy but yet nose comping up.
If you are too nose heavy you may not have enough elevator to pull up.
It I better to be a bit nose heavy than tail heavy for your first test flights. Because the plane is more controllable.
Some people use the inverted test. Take your plane to a safe altitude and flip it upside down. If you can contunue flying it without any elevator input then your cg is correct.
I usually do the dive test and balance it for a straight line and this makes the plane feel good to me.
Some like it to very gradually pull up. If you wanted to get every last bit of performance you could go for a neutral dive or a little bit tucking down.

It's nose heavy if you need elevator compensation to keep the nose up and then when it catches speed it becomes too much.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 16, 2017 at 09:47 AM.
Jun 15, 2017, 07:23 PM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Throws on V tails.

V tails do not need much throw.

For example, you could move the rudders full side to side. And have the result could be having the aircraft fully inverting. Not good...

Try to always Dial in some low, medium and high rates on a switch and have a little fun finding out how it responds.

Of course, a simple test is to dive a little and fairly positively pull full up. Too much throw will result in immediate loss of control and tip stall type effects. So make sure you have decent recovery height.

typical throws

Elevator, 8 mm each way.
Rudder, 12 mm each way.
Ailerons, 12 mm up & 9 down.
Spoilerons, 10 mm up.
Flaps usually you want as much down as possible if you can 90°. But a lot of set ups so only allow you to go to about 80°

but check with manufacture of your model
Last edited by DWA; Jun 15, 2017 at 07:46 PM.
Jun 20, 2017, 01:41 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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Well one of my workbenchs got a little sprucing up a couple days ago.
I had some extra wood from getting the floors done (actually a lot I still have plenty if I need a need to do any repair in the house) so I decided to put them on one workbench.
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Jun 20, 2017, 01:47 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
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The quiver.
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Jun 25, 2017, 12:51 AM
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The different F3F F3B F3J and so on....

All of these are international FAI tasks. F3 indicates radiocontrol soaring, the last letter indicates the specific event. A very brief overview:

F3B - Multi-Task Soaring
3 tasks comprise a round - all flown with the same aircraft. Launch is typically by a winch with mono. Task 1. Duration - very similar to standard US MoM contests, fly for 10 minutes in a 12 minute window and land on a spot. Task 2. Distance - Fly as many legs as possible in 4 minutes. A leg is 150 meter course -Fly back and forth as many times as you can in the 4 minutes. No landing points. Flown MoM 3) Speed - fly 4 legs (2 laps) of the 150m course as fast as you can. not MoM. The scores from all three tasks comprise your score for a round, then add up your rounds for a total.

F3J - Thermal Duration
Launched with 2 man hand tow.
Fly the longest flight you can in a 10 minute window. Don't overfly or a penalty. Don't launch early or a penalty. Time on launch line does not count. Land on a spot before the time expires.

F3K - Handlaunch
Perform various tasks using a HL glider.

F3F - Slope Racing

F3H - Cross Country

F3Q - Aero Tow Gliders

FAI stands for Fédération Aéronautique Internationale. That's French, by the way. You can probably come up with a good translation by yourself. This is the world organization that governs all sorts of flying activities.

Here is their web site:

The section of the FAI that deals with aeromdeling activities is called the CIAM. I had to look up what CIAM stood for, here is a cut and paste:

"The abbreviation CIAM stands for "Commission Internationale d'Aeromodelisme" (French) later renamed to "Commission Internationale Aeromodelling" (English) because the first language in the FAI has changed from French to English."

So today we in the US think of the International Aeromodeling Commission as being the part of FAI that deals with aeromodeling.

Here is their web site:

You can find a bit of history about the CIAM on that web site and you can see the F3X disciplines listed on the right side of that page. Click away and see what you can learn there.
Last edited by DWA; Jun 25, 2017 at 12:57 AM.
Nov 02, 2017, 12:32 AM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
DWA's Avatar
Just found this video searching for something else.

Good memories...

CAJON PASS FAKE PSS (18 min 4 sec)
Latest blog entry: Carbon Fiber Bird
Nov 11, 2017, 06:53 PM
1Corinthians 13:1-8
DWA's Avatar
Ahi pushrod binding fix...
Pushrods - The Easy Solution to fix them

My pushrods were both extremely stiff in operation and could not be left the way they were. Having read the OP I can take no credit for my way to fix them as he flagged up the idea.

1. Find a brass tube that is a nice fit over the plastic pushrod tube at the points they exit the fuz at the rear.

2. Sharpen one end of the brass tube to a nice chamfered cutting edge. (Run a scalpel blade around the inside of the tube at one end)

3. Now slide the brass tube over the plastic tube and slowly rotate and push in the brass tube it so as to cut/relieve the foam around the plastic tube. Its usually only the first 20-30mm that cauaes the binding.

4. Now glue some medium grade sandpaper around the circumfrence to the other end of the brass tube about 35mm long.

5. Now use this end to relieve the foam around the plastic tube even more by rotating the brass tube and pushing it along the plastic tube the required distance.

6. This method completely cured my sticking pushrod problems in a very neat way. No cutting of foam was required.
Latest blog entry: Carbon Fiber Bird

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