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May 18, 2019, 06:11 AM
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Hi Pat

Thanks for the reply. I've just received the windsock data files on the Be2e and Be12a and the dihedral looks about 3 degrees same as the Sopwith Pup. Yes of course you're right the upper wing will get more as it's longer than the lower, why didn't I think of that!

Can you tell me if you can remember what throw you had on the ailerons and what differential if any eg 10 up 5 down. Being a sprog on biplanes I've no idea.

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May 19, 2019, 06:11 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Tony - I, again, can't remember the throws but the BE12 was not an aerobatic machine and the aileron throws mentioned would sound about right. I always use low rates when flying anyway - not exciting but more scale like. I seem to remember the BE12 was criticized as being too stable as fighter!

Latest blog entry: 2019 Already.....
May 20, 2019, 06:44 AM
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dion9146's Avatar
Pat, you are right about that. I can’t get my Be 12 to do an aerobatic move no matter what I try. It’s definitely a scale lazy flier for sure.
May 20, 2019, 04:38 PM
Registered User
Cheers Pat thanks for answering
May 21, 2019, 01:35 AM
North East England
Have you started balsa cutting yet then Tony?

I'm currently resuming the build of an Olympic 2 glider (with motor in nose) which I started a while ago and also a Kaos aerobatic model. I need to get back to my first love of WW1 models!

I found a pic of my old Rake DH6 I mentioned in an earlier post - the one which always landed itself - wish I'd kept it now but actually it was really only suitable for very calm days, which I rarely get. Regarding control throws, I had about 3/4" each way on rudder and only about 1/8"-3/16" up/down on elevator. It really didn't need any more for steady scale flight.

Used to be a WW1 scale guy in my old club and he never fixed the crew figures in his planes, just put them in loose. 'If they fall out then I'm not flying in a scale manner' he'd say. He even kept them in place when doing loops too

May 21, 2019, 05:34 AM
Registered User
Hi Steve

That is a great looking model extremely well made, surprised you parted with it. I've got the kit, waiting for some bits to come and no I haven't started yet. I was intending to do a Sopwith Pup from the '99 issue of FSM first to get my hand in. But I'm now leaning to starting the kit instead. Decisions decisions! Hope the glider goes well as that's my passion, I'm trying to set up my gliders for this weekends Radio Glide but failing miserably-I had a motor and esc blow up on me yesterday and a wing servo go dud. I'll start balsa bashing next week. I'm leaning towards the BE2c version as there's a great colour scheme on the Windsock data file, a red and white signals version, really looks different.

Question, what are the exhaust pipes made of Steve?

May 21, 2019, 10:03 AM
North East England
The DH6 went to a former club mate so it may well still be flying. A very draggy model, like all WW1 bipes and would fly slow but you needed to keep just enough power on.

The exhaust pipes are made from plastic drinking straws - if you look at the bend you can see the flexible bit. Much easier to make than trying to bend aluminium tube - and also free if you grab a handful each time you visit the pub (Those wooden coffee stirring sticks also come in very handy for gluing on wing trailing edges to stop the laggy bands digging in.) Sometimes Wetherspoons is as good as a model shop!

Exhaust supports are just paper clips bent to shape and glued into balsa blocks installed in the top wing before covering.

After using Litespan almost exclusively for years, I'm in shock at the cost of the Monocote covering needed to finish my 100" Olympic... bit of a price difference!! Have to bite the bullet and order it soon though.

I've built Pete's 36" BE2c a couple of times in the past but would love to build a bigger version sometime.

May 23, 2019, 04:52 AM
Registered User

A lot of people are using the HK covering with good results - it's cheap, certainly some of the BARCS members are. I've not used it myself but the chairman has. Easy coat is a good option as well, it's made my Oracover. At the minute the shops have "Seconds" in, there's nothing wrong with it, apparently it was a glitch in manufacturing so they deemed it necessary to tell everyone. 5m for the price of 2m, really cheap. It's great value anyway and I've used it on a couple of my electric gliders. It's translucent once on. Check the normal label on the roll and it tells you if it's a second, if so the shop has to sell it at a cheaper price. I've just bought a couple of rolls, very easy to apply but don't apply too hot a low temp is fine.

Ingenious with the DH6 build. I've just been to my local sewing shop to gather up some bits, the beading wire is great for rigging wire, they even sell kevlar thread which is way cheaper than the model shop prices. Your model as inspired me to build one instead of the Pup to get my hand in, should image I'll have the frame all ready within a week or so. Should start cutting after the weekend.

Did you build it stock RET or did you add ailerons? Oh, and what motor set up did you have as well please.

Last edited by tctele; May 23, 2019 at 04:59 AM.
May 28, 2019, 11:58 AM
North East England
Thanks for the heads-up about the covering, Tony. I'll try some of that on my Olympic and see how it goes.

Re the DH6, I built it absolutely stock as R/E/T. I think Pete's bigger one has ailerons but they're not needed on the smaller one - one less thing to go wrong too

The motor was a bog-standard cheapy BM2408-21 which cost about 7 at the time. I tend to stick with the same motor and have a few of these as they're great for 36" WW1 slow-flying planes like Pete designed. 8" prop and 2s LiPo. A cheap but effective setup.

I too use plastic coated beading wire for control wires - Beadalon 015 - and it's very thin but strong. Be careful if you use beading wire for rigging as it doesn't snap if you snag it on anything while landing so is liable to rip out the struts it's attached to and cause damage. It really is very strong stuff.

For non-working rigging I just use thick thread but if your rigging is functional then by all means use the beading wire. Pete's WW1 bipes tend not to need functional rigging though.


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