Originally Posted by killickb

Dan, just checked incidences on the plan and it looks like about 2 degree positive on the wing. I always draw chord lines on the plan for wing/tailplane and you had drawn the wing chordline so ignoring my Clark ''Y" section and assuming flat plate I still have a small positive with respect to wing, that you do not, that means that my boom is down if anything? Am going to try and line up fuse over plan now.

Yes, the wing root rib is set to 2 degrees positive and the stab is at zero degrees.

Originally Posted by killickb

Ok, overlaid fuse on plan, lined up bottom of fuse with plan and using triangle lined up the tailplane seat (EM) with plan and it is almost perfect. However I note that although my B10 is the right length below EM (per plan) my B11 is about 3/8 shorter than plan so that the bottom sheeting of the boom is at a greater angle than the tailhook angle. This sheeting is not glued on yet so can add some shims etc to get it right. So it is not that the boom is at an incorrect angle but that it is to short (vertically) at B-11, no idea what happened here. I am going to refinish the boom, use calipers to transfer correct dimensions from plan to balsa and if neccessary make a new tailhook to suit.

Another point you might add to instructions is to make cardboard or ply radius patterns for the fuse corners at each bulkhead -- gives something to sand to.

Hmmm... Weird. Can you post a pic that shows B11 so that I can see what you're describing?

Good suggestion. Thanks.

Originally Posted by DanSavage

The last one is Daren's F-4.

Actually, I encountered this also. I did a minor reshape on the tailhook to raise rear portion up to touch the bottom of the boom. I just thought it was due to some weird sheeting I did and didn't mention it to Dan.

Here's a template from my tailhook.

Daren

I don't recall if I had that issue...senior moment..

Fuzz

Originally Posted by Daren

Actually, I encountered this also. I did a minor reshape on the tailhook to raise rear portion up to touch the bottom of the boom. I just thought it was due to some weird sheeting I did and didn't mention it to Dan.

Here's a template from my tailhook.

Daren

Thanks for the template, Daren. I'll let Barry try your tailhook and if it fits better, then I'll update the laser files and add it to the corrections pdf.

Dan

Well, good to know that I haven't lost it totally. Thanks for template but I couldn't get it to print out full size with all of the shape edges showing so went back to creating my own which turns out to be not very far from original shape. Dan, I wouldn't change files because it looks like all versions are ending up just that little bit different at the back end anyway. Am now sanding the ply cockpit floor and might just change the cockpit floor to balsa from ply so as to be able to blend it in while in situ, have to keep taking ply off to sand, even with tape on the balsa fuse edge. Don't know why it needs to be ply anyway because once canopy is on it will be stiff enough to retain shape?

This brings up the question does the model require building to be nose light or tail light --- will use ply floor if needing to be tail light. I'm sure battery tray allows enough travel to balance but just wondering if you guys had to add deadweight anywhere?

Fuse state is pictured.

Ahhh..now I remember.. your pic restored my memory. Yes I did note and redo that part. But like "brother" Daren, I thought it was my fault with the sheeting.

Great work on the sheeting! You can now run around the house making funny noises, and straffing the cat!

Fuzz

Build the model nose-light. Otherwise you'll have to push the motor batteries too far back. Even then, I had to put 3 oz. of lead under the elevator hatch.

I recommend putting your receiver and as much of the air system as possible in the fan compartment.

Daren did this with his and he's able to use two 4s packs and his requires no lead in the tail to balance.

How much is this Kit,does anyone have a link?
Thanks

My kit was built using the balsa floor. I found this to be too delicate when I tried to remove the hatch for the first time after I finished sanding in the bevel and took a big chunk out. Arghh!

I was too lazy to build a new floor and knew that a balsa patch would only do the same thing again. I think the ply patch could be much shorter and still work.

Here is what I call my Lazy Man's Solution.

No lead in my F-4, it's all usable weight.

Daren

Originally Posted by killickb

Am now sanding the ply cockpit floor and might just change the cockpit floor to balsa from ply so as to be able to blend it in while in situ, have to keep taking ply off to sand, even with tape on the balsa fuse edge. Don't know why it needs to be ply anyway because once canopy is on it will be stiff enough to retain shape?

This brings up the question does the model require building to be nose light or tail light --- will use ply floor if needing to be tail light. I'm sure battery tray allows enough travel to balance but just wondering if you guys had to add deadweight anywhere?

Fuse state is pictured.

Dan has several pricing options available. $149-$219. SavageLight.com F-4.

Daren

Originally Posted by keith b

How much is this Kit,does anyone have a link?
Thanks

Thanks Daren it looks as if it would be a fun kit to build,and I love F-4s.

Thanks for the cockpit floor tip Daren but too late! Have finally got my ply floor bevel sanded to match the fuse without too many four letter words!! I could still lighten the floor and not loose stiffness by some strategic cutting but will wait until final assembly to see if that dieting is required. Noticed my fin was off a bit, must have moved the stringers when gluing on the sheeting so a minor fix needed there. Ready for final sanding now. Had to throw in a couple of those little 50mm jets (foam!!!) in between sanding/spackle!

Keith, go for it, this one at least looks like an F-4 and the build is fun not tedious at all.

You're welcome. The build is fun, but where this model really shines is in the flying! Especially with 2K+ watts pushing 6-3/4 lbs. around the sky.

Daren

Originally Posted by keith b

Thanks Daren it looks as if it would be a fun kit to build,and I love F-4s.

So far so good. Have decided against the Luftwaffe "orange bird" and going for the red/white/blue Boscombe Down version. Hopefully Callie is pricing out the decals as we speak. Decided to add f/glass as well as the dihedral braces, as suggested by Dan, think the edges are pretty well feathered in. Sort of sad that the primary build is over! Lost one of my pull through strings so now have to fish servo wires etc through the fuse!! E-Flite retracts fit and work great. Now onto final sanding and getting out the iron.

Where did you all end up locating the esc?