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Oct 24, 2012, 10:46 PM
the great Gassif´er
You can visually inspect the needle for damage on the tapered part and straightness. Usually if the needle is damaged, the seat will be also, but that is no guarantee.

Don't know what your background is with model engines, but you have to be very careful when adjusting valves, as the spring pressure is not that high, and it is very easy to push open the valves with the feeler gauge and consequently adjust the valves too tight.

Brgds, Bert
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Oct 25, 2012, 12:50 AM
Registered User
I have a TT 54 which had seat damage . You could wind it in and still not lean it out , also if you put a bit fuel tube on the nipple and blow into it even when the needle is wound in it will still let air past . Cheers the pope
Oct 26, 2012, 12:26 AM
Registered User
Reginald's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by the pope
I have a TT 54 which had seat damage . You could wind it in and still not lean it out , also if you put a bit fuel tube on the nipple and blow into it even when the needle is wound in it will still let air past . Cheers the pope
No one mentionned it but it is also very important that the needle is absolutely perfectly centered inside the holder, even more true with the old glows and diesels. If not the spray does not work correctly. I have seen engines where the needle did touch the side of the spraybar.
Oct 26, 2012, 09:59 PM
Registered User

saito 60 twin


I've searched this thread with few results. Is anyone running the saito 60 twin? I bought one today on ebay which looks to be in good condition with little use. It would be nice to hear from someone who has experience with this little gem. Thanks.
Nov 04, 2012, 07:56 PM
Dieselized User
gkamysz's Avatar
I just saw that Saito is also offering a FG-33R3. That is a 33cc 3 cylinder radial.

Greg
Nov 05, 2012, 04:47 PM
Registered User
Ok Club Saito here's a question, I have two FA -80's one has a large diameter chrome exhaust and the other has a smaller diameter black exhaust. Are these just early and late models, is one more powerful than the other?
Nov 05, 2012, 08:29 PM
I HATE GLOW PLUGS!
SrTelemaster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkamysz
I just saw that Saito is also offering a FG-33R3. That is a 33cc 3 cylinder radial.

Greg
Sounds like a gasoline version of the 200R3.
Nov 06, 2012, 12:56 AM
Cognito, Ergo Imbibo
old_dan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokeenut
Ok Club Saito here's a question, I have two FA -80's one has a large diameter chrome exhaust and the other has a smaller diameter black exhaust. Are these just early and late models, is one more powerful than the other?
Can you post a pic of the two engines? I have a couple of FA-80's. One came with a straight muffler. When it broke off from age, the replacement is the current design which is bell shaped. My other one has an aftermarket exhaust....I bought the engine used, so I never saw the factory exhaust.

Dan
Nov 06, 2012, 02:31 PM
Dieselized User
gkamysz's Avatar
There were two versions of the FA-80, but I'm unsure if the mufflers coincided with the different pistons. The early FA-80 had a domed piston. This can be seen in Clarence Lees review in 1987. When Americans had problems with detonation using glow fuel containing nitromethane, Saito changed to a flat top piston to reduce the compression ratio a bit.

Greg
Nov 06, 2012, 03:23 PM
Registered User
I wonder it the one with the small pipe is the early, we have to run a 12-8 prop because anything bigger it starts knocking badly and will spit the prop.
Nov 06, 2012, 03:33 PM
Dieselized User
gkamysz's Avatar
I have one with the skinny aluminum muffler and it's a flat top piston. With an engine potentially 25 years old and unknown history, its' anyone's guess. The importers also offered cylinder shims to reduce compression ratio.

Greg
Nov 06, 2012, 06:29 PM
Chuck it and see!
Wing-span's Avatar
I bought a second hand FA-80 today. Hope it works! it has a dented left pushrod cover and the rubber boots are split. This should fix it. But how do I go about fitting the parts?

Saito -nuubby
Nov 07, 2012, 11:27 AM
I HATE GLOW PLUGS!
SrTelemaster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing-span
I bought a second hand FA-80 today. Hope it works! it has a dented left pushrod cover and the rubber boots are split. This should fix it. But how do I go about fitting the parts?

Saito -nuubby
1st you will need to remove the rocker covers to access the rocker/pushrod interface.

Loosen & remove the cylinder base screws & W/the piston @ TDC raise the cylinder just enough to remove the tubes & pushrods. Try not to mix up the pushrods & do not get them flipped end for end.

Place the new tubes/seals W/the pushrods in them & lower the cylinder into its proper place all the while making sure that the pushrods/seals/tubes are installed correctly.

After tightening the base screws, check the valve lash & set it @ .4mm (.0015").

Install the rocker covers & you are done.
Nov 07, 2012, 03:40 PM
Chuck it and see!
Wing-span's Avatar
Thank you.

Seems simple but I will have to work out how to set the .4mm tolerance as I do not have a gauge or tool to do this, yet. I'm not sure what you mean by 'valve lash' is this a reference to the timing of the valves?
Nov 08, 2012, 07:01 AM
I HATE GLOW PLUGS!
SrTelemaster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wing-span
Thank you.

Seems simple but I will have to work out how to set the .4mm tolerance as I do not have a gauge or tool to do this, yet. I'm not sure what you mean by 'valve lash' is this a reference to the timing of the valves?
With the piston on TDC & both valves completley closed (on the EX/IN TDC they will both be slightly opened) there must be slight clearance. (lash)

You can get a feeler guage @ any well stocked auto parts store or Sears. Make sure it has a .0015" gauge. A .002" will work.

Loosen the locknuts on the adjusting screws & adjust the lash so that a slight drag is felt when the gauge is withdrawn. Double check after tightening the locknut as lash tends to increase or sometimes decreases when the locknut is tightened.


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