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Oct 13, 2012, 08:33 AM
Dieselized User
gkamysz's Avatar
Club YS should be a popular thread.

Greg
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Oct 13, 2012, 09:36 AM
Hope to get out of life alive
kenh3497's Avatar

FA 120 & CG Pitts Monster S12


I just acquired a Carl Goldberg Monster Pitts S12 and a Saito FA 120 to power it. The plane needs some crash damage fixed first I don't know what the plane will weigh when finished.

In the opinion of those out there, will the 120 be an appropriate engine for this airframe? Extreme aerobatics is not necessary, although that is kind of what the Pitts is meant to do. It looks like I may have a double standard here

Now with the above said.... I always am looking for more HP out of a package. Has any body increased the compression of the 120 for a little more oomph? I prefer not to run fuel over 15% nitro and in fact prefer 10% nitro.

Thank you!

Ken

EDIT; Is there any advantage to tapping the valve covers to drain excess oil / promote oil flow when running inverted or upright for that matter? I read about the cam cover mod which mine does not have.
Last edited by kenh3497; Oct 13, 2012 at 10:00 AM.
Oct 13, 2012, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Gary Cee's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gkamysz
Club YS should be a popular thread.

Greg
Popularity of a support group is by no means a measure the product .
Oct 13, 2012, 04:06 PM
I HATE GLOW PLUGS!
SrTelemaster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenh3497
I just acquired a Carl Goldberg Monster Pitts S12 and a Saito FA 120 to power it. The plane needs some crash damage fixed first I don't know what the plane will weigh when finished.

In the opinion of those out there, will the 120 be an appropriate engine for this airframe? Extreme aerobatics is not necessary, although that is kind of what the Pitts is meant to do. It looks like I may have a double standard here

Now with the above said.... I always am looking for more HP out of a package. Has any body increased the compression of the 120 for a little more oomph? I prefer not to run fuel over 15% nitro and in fact prefer 10% nitro.

Thank you!

Ken

EDIT; Is there any advantage to tapping the valve covers to drain excess oil / promote oil flow when running inverted or upright for that matter? I read about the cam cover mod which mine does not have.
Some answers to your increased HP mod questions here.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/post...sp?id=11261371

AS for your last question, there is a discussion in this thread starting on page 172 on this thread. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2579 It continues on page 173.
Oct 15, 2012, 03:04 AM
Vitalijus Pilkionis
Which version of 270 twin is of a newer design - the one with intake and exhaust ports looking back and carb on the back?
What are other design and technical differences between these two?
Oct 17, 2012, 02:12 PM
Fly'em like you Stole'em
MikeMcChiken's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by prunner
Hey Guys, I've got a FA-150 with 15 flights on it. I had a bearing seize up just after take off with my Edge 540 last weekend. I only stripped the landing gear off, so I'm calling a successful landing . I bought the engine from a member here on RCG as new, which it is/was.

Can you direct me on how to replace the bearings. Also, which company makes the best bearings?

Thanks
Looks like no one has answered your question . I always use Saito bearings . I have tried others and always go back to Saito . There made in Japan so you know you are getting quality . On page one I have a link to advantagehobby . They have great service and a nice parts finder .

Here is a thread that might help you on the job itself.

http://www.theprofilebrotherhood.com...ng+replacement
Oct 17, 2012, 03:00 PM
Registered User
Gary Cee's Avatar
If you could still source US or European made bearings , the choice would be easy indeed . Now that most bearings in these sizes are from China , Japan or India it gets a little close but the edge probably goes to Japan .
Years ago , when I serviced air and electric power tools , the Japanese bearings were just getting a foothold here . We were very eager to try them as it had the potential to save us a load of money . As it turned out , the Japanese bearings had a very high early failure rate and we were forced to go back to US/ Euro made bearings , just as Mike went back to Saito .
Oct 19, 2012, 06:32 AM
I HATE GLOW PLUGS!
SrTelemaster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeMcChiken
I would like to start a Thread for people with questions or small talk on Saito engines . RCU has a thread like this which I personally am tired of . Too many moderators and deleting of posts . If anyone has good knowledge of Saitos or questions subscribe to this thread and lets get it moving . .
I too am tired of all the "post nannies" over on RCU deleting post & direct images. I plan to move the bulk of my posting over here.

My current Sato herd: FA 91S CDI, FA150 CDI, FA180 CDI, FA180HC CDI, FA300TTDP CDI, FA200Ti (soon to be CDI).

All are running or will soon be running C&H CDI setting off glow fuel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by I TOBOR
The Club Saito over at the competition is seldom if ever Moderated.
Sadly that seems to no longer be the case. I have never seen such a penchant for deleting posts that might spark some debate that might go against traditional beliefs/practices.

Hopfully that won't be the case here.
Oct 19, 2012, 02:53 PM
Registered User

Saito Engines


Well I got to the sign in box and got that done. Looks like a nice site. Got to learn my way aroun here. Capt,n
Oct 21, 2012, 11:06 AM
Hope to get out of life alive
kenh3497's Avatar
I pulled my 120 apart yesterday and found a not so good thing. When removing one of the bolts on the back cover, the threads came out with the bolt. I can grab two or three threads but I don't think that will be enough to hold as tight as it needs. Every bolt on this thing was gorilla tight. The T-handle I was using would "snap" every time a bolt came loose.

I think.... There is enough room to drill and tap the hole to 4mm. My plan would be to make a 4mm aluminum plug drilled and tapped to 3mm and red locktited in the new 4mm hole. I have a Taig Micro Lathe so making the bushing is no problem. FWIW it is the upper right hole looking at the back of the engine.

All this was prompted by the wish to remove copious amounts of carbon in the exhaust port and check the bearings which it needs. The bearings sound like a "toy" electric motor with dry bushings

Ken
Oct 21, 2012, 11:45 AM
Registered User
In a pinch, a self-tapper will probably do the trick. Sounds like butchery, I know, but it does work.
Oct 21, 2012, 11:50 AM
Dieselized User
gkamysz's Avatar
I would use a helical thread insert.

Greg
Oct 21, 2012, 12:31 PM
Registered User
Reginald's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenh3497
I pulled my 120 apart yesterday and found a not so good thing. When removing one of the bolts on the back cover, the threads came out with the bolt. I can grab two or three threads but I don't think that will be enough to hold as tight as it needs. Every bolt on this thing was gorilla tight. The T-handle I was using would "snap" every time a bolt came loose.

I think.... There is enough room to drill and tap the hole to 4mm. My plan would be to make a 4mm aluminum plug drilled and tapped to 3mm and red locktited in the new 4mm hole. I have a Taig Micro Lathe so making the bushing is no problem. FWIW it is the upper right hole looking at the back of the engine.

All this was prompted by the wish to remove copious amounts of carbon in the exhaust port and check the bearings which it needs. The bearings sound like a "toy" electric motor with dry bushings

Ken
Helicoil or Recoil may be the answer if there is enough material left
Oct 21, 2012, 08:06 PM
Registered User
Gary Cee's Avatar
Ken , This is not all that uncommon with threadlocked steel in aluminum . If You can get a good grip on say 6 threads , you may find a threaded rod "stud" more suitable . You can then bottom out the stud to take all threads and use a nut on the exposed end . In fact , studs in this application are far superior to screws .

Otherwise , a thread insert will be very close to the 4.0 MM number so you could consider just going up a thread size and , if clearance allows use a larger screw or better stiall a stud .
Oct 21, 2012, 08:43 PM
Hope to get out of life alive
kenh3497's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Cee
If You can get a good grip on say 6 threads , you may find a threaded rod "stud" more suitable .
If I'm lucky there are three threads there. An old tool and die guy told me once you need a minimum of 1 1/2 bolt diameters to hold a bolt or stud. He was talking about cast iron at the time. My guess is 2 diameters in aluminum would be safe. I don't think a stud would hold. Even it the 4mm bushing caught the edge of the crankcase a tad I could just dress it a bit to clear the back cover. I have all winter so no hurry except to put it together so I don't loose the parts

Ken


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