40" Dynamic Build Thread - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Sep 12, 2009, 06:46 PM
Jim in San Diego
Pismo's Avatar
Louie and I started our D40's last night. I have a few comments/questions -

Did the stab placement get fixed after the first batch of planes? The incidence looks fine on Louie's and mine.

There are some great posts and information posted in the "Taking Orders" thread that I think are worthwhile linking into this thread. If the OPers would continue to pass along any add'l info here that would be great.

CG, all up weight, throws, and other info:

Another with similar info:

First flight info and similar to above info:

Another start and info:

Good info on aft-ward elevator servo placement:

There's starting to be a good amount on information floating around out there for these planes. Like Joe said, there are a lot of different ways to do things and I think a lot of "good, better, best" ways to do something for a particular purpose so if you got some good gouge please share.

I'll see if I can take any worth while photo's of Louie's or mine and post.

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Sep 18, 2009, 04:48 PM
Registered User
D40s over the pond (coppied from UK build thread)

George has gone for a 4 cell pack, ill be using 5 cell.

servo plugs will be cut off and replaced with 1 mpx 6 pin, plenty of room for nose weight (i hope!)

ive also drilled the ariel holes and elevator push rod (cable) is installed.
Sep 18, 2009, 04:49 PM
Registered User
They are finally done :co

Had to re do both keels as bending the ply to get them in and out was just too much (snap!) so i cut them and cynod some mylar to them to form a hinge. Go in really easy now.

And i finally gave up trying to squeeze a savox in there for the elevator and opted for the SD100s all round. And these still sit proud of the wing skin by a couple of mm at the back despite them being 8mm thick

C/G was set at around 47mm with lead shot and epoxy in the nose and then ballanced at 41mm for george and 42mm on mine with lead on the keel so they can be fine tuned to suit.

New Keels, (you can just make out hinge line on 2nd pic)

ply plate with blind nut to hold keel in place and Sd100 tucked nicley in the back to allow for future ballast under the wing,

This shows how much the keel needs to flex to be installed

All in

Ready to rock!

Luckily i have a few servo covers lying around, as the D40s dont come with any

But they did come with a nice switch / charge lead.

That elevator horn is about 4mm tall!!

Really looking forward to these, :colm:
Sep 20, 2009, 06:31 AM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
Geo420's Avatar
Hi guys
Can anyone give some settings for DS please?
Just programming my D40 and would like some base line please

Sep 21, 2009, 04:49 PM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
Geo420's Avatar

Maidened at last!

Well tonight Adam and I went up to Honey Pot and flew the D40's on the front side.

Nice Joe. Not so small as they seem in your hands. I was a little worried about seeing them, but its not a problem in flight.

We both had a moment one from turbulance and one from snap flap...

They dont slow up much with brakes do they?

Camber for lift did not seem to do alot, but may help in more wind.

All in all a very sweet ship! WE LIKE EM!

Here is a still or two.

The first D40's to fly this side of the pond?

We cant wait to get some of the right wind and go and put some laps on these little muthers ...

Thanks Mr Manor!

Sep 21, 2009, 05:14 PM
Registered User
Top pics boys! Nice!
Sep 21, 2009, 05:23 PM
Paul Anderson
I have played with both spoiler an flap for glide path control and the flaps definitely work better. I also tried camber and snap flap and determined neither seems to benefit this section much. But then again I am flying mine only in 25+ mph conditions and at 35+ oz.

Glad the maidens went great.

Sep 30, 2009, 04:44 PM
Registered DSer
Kahnx's Avatar

D40 repair question

I crashed my D40. It had all the ballast in it, so, amongst other damage, the wing hold-down nut pulled through (stayed attached to the wing).

Joe or others, can you please provide some suggestions on the best way to re-install the nut so that (a) it is correctly aligned and (b) doesn't get glue in the threads.


Sep 30, 2009, 06:24 PM
Paul Anderson
Replace the stock nut with a 3mm blind nut bonded to a plywood plate and then glue the plate under the existing hole and tighten the wing up.

Or you could just use tape. It is amazing what a few wraps of tape over the wing flange and around the fuse will do.

Oct 01, 2009, 05:25 AM
Mach 0.261 ... Hiccup of Wiggy
Geo420's Avatar
Good point Paul, Tape works for the erwin!

Oct 01, 2009, 03:45 PM
Registered User
Adams D40 today ....they do accelerate quick dont they ....not an epic day round the back but overall a cracking little plane
Oct 01, 2009, 04:15 PM
Just Fly it

T nuts

I have had disapointing experiences with T nuts. Soft metal, and imprecise threads, so any excuse to replace the Tnuts works for me. I like plate steel which i cut out to size, and then drill and tap. It then gets JB welded in where the plywood would have gone. Vaseline up the screw, and bottom of the wing, and install wing and measure it to center perfection. The slow JB weld epoxy gives you plenty of time.
Oct 02, 2009, 01:35 PM
Can you DS it??
spotterone's Avatar
I just finished building mine. Looks awesome, and I can't wait to maiden it!

Mine is pretty much a stock build with a few exceptions. I fly Spektrum, so I got a kevlar fuse, used an AR6200 and stuffed the receivers as far forward and aft as I could get them. They are a good 2" in front and behind the wing, so I would think I am safe from the dreaded carbon shadowing issues.

I made a pentagon shaped 5 x AAA eneloop pack with some sheet lead in the centre to hold the pentagon shape. I still needed 50 grams or thereabouts of lead in the nose to balance it. I mixed up about 10g of epoxy and poured it over the lead shot (read: small sinkers) so all up its about 60g of nose weight plus what's inside the pack.

I used a HS-5055MG servo for the elevator, as it was the only thing I found that would fit. It sits about 2/3 of the way back from the front of the fuse cutout. That was about as far back as I could get it and still solder the thread adaptor onto the control rod. If I was doing it again, I would glue the point in the tail last so I could move the servo even more aft. The wing servos are D60's.

Also, I put the switch jack behind the servo, as I need all the room I can get to put the battery in.

AUW is 510g or 18oz. Should be good for most of our flying days, as we don't often see much more than 15kts, and our little hills aren't condusive to massive speeds anyway.

Hopefully I'll have some speeds to post soon!

Oct 03, 2009, 11:20 AM
Stay in it!!!!
Good luck with the maiden Leo. Fly fast!
Oct 03, 2009, 01:07 PM
Registered User
wakumann's Avatar
The D40 is the most efficient small model I ever flew, actually that wasn't a surprise.
Accelerates nicely out of the corners and kept on step even with just 18.5 oz.

D40 at SDR (2 min 3 sec)


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