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Old Oct 12, 2011, 11:44 AM
Jantar2A is offline
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Just chillin @ 403 MPH
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I've used a thin piano wire insted of the cable inside of the tube.
the wire must be bent precisely to allow smoothe operation without binding but when done properly it's rock solid with no slop.
Though I agree with Joe,you can't beat a servo in the tail,,makes for a rock solid slop free easy install.

Nick
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Old Oct 12, 2011, 06:34 PM
spotterone is offline
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Can you DS it??
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe manor View Post
The issue I have seen is actually coming from inside the housing. The cable is too small in diameter compared to the ID of the tube. Doesnt matter if the housing is glued all the way or not I have been getting a small amount of play coming from the cable inside the tube. The foam in interesting but I have had great results with the D60,80, and 130 by having the servo in the tail. I think I would like to go that route with these as well. Have been planning on making a new fuse plug. That will come soon.
I would LOVE a new fuse! If you do decide to make one with provision for a servo in the tail, will it fit the current wing, and will you be offering it separately? Either way, you can count me in for sure!
Old Oct 12, 2011, 06:46 PM
rothlisburger is offline
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the occasional flyer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spotterone View Post
The foam that these guys are talking about is SOLID... There is very little flex in it so it has it's own stiffness. Add that to a D40 wing ... and it will assist in making it even stiffer.
I propose a simple test. Take a carbon tube, clamp one end to a table. Hang a known weight from the other end, and measure the tip deflection. Now, fill the tube with any plastic you want, including your high-density foam, and repeat the experiment. I predict no measurable difference.

The thing is, the foam seems stiff if all you're doing is trying to bend it with your hands. But, as far as material properties go, the carbon composite has a modulus of elasticity (stiffness) 20 times or more greater than the foam. That's why you build the wing with carbon skins, instead of just plain foam.

Cheers.

-David
Old Oct 13, 2011, 01:42 AM
slope4evr is offline
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Eagles are my nemesis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rothlisburger View Post
carbon composite has a modulus of elasticity (stiffness) 20 times or more greater than the foam. That's why you build the wing with carbon skins, instead of just plain foam.

Cheers.

-David
Any wing will have some sort of support. Be it a spar, foam or what have you. If you had foam core in your wings, it's not there to hold it's shape till the epoxy cures. It is the support material. Keeps the skin stiff and rigid. Also keeps it from breaking like a potato chip. So basically transferring the load from one skin to the other.
Anyhow, It would no doubt make the wing stiffer. A carbon tube not so much
Last edited by slope4evr; Oct 13, 2011 at 01:52 AM.
Old Jan 29, 2012, 09:13 PM
areid is offline
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Managed to tear the middle half of one of the flaps on my D40 yesterday in a less than perfect "landing" (would have written off any other plane, but that and a stripped D47 were the only marks on the D40...). About a third of the flap hinge is affected.

Whats the best way to repair this? I was thinking of just taping the bottom, but this might not be enough. Or maybe force a tiny bit of silicone in the gap and then tape it. The wipers mean I can't really get any access to the hinge from the top without taking the whole flap off.

Any ideas?
Old Jan 31, 2012, 10:04 AM
joe manor is offline
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Stay in it!!!!
You should be able to tape the outside, remove your linkage, and drop the flap down far enough to get some silicone or something spread on the inside of the hinge. If that doesnt work then your solution should work fine as well. Just add the material from the outside then clean it from the skins and tape over. Be careful not to put too much as you will not be able to remove any extra if your wiper is in the way.
Old Feb 02, 2012, 09:20 PM
areid is offline
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Have done this and seems to be perfect now. Managed to get the silicone in from the inside. Thanks for the advice.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:16 PM
jonathan4000 is online now
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Jonathan Wells
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D40 tip weight?


Joe,

I have recently purchased my first D40.

I would like to add 5oz of tip weight (per tip) but Iím finding it difficult to squeeze it in. What is the best way of doing this?

Thanks in advance.

Jon W
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:39 PM
joe manor is offline
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Stay in it!!!!
Use thin sheet lead. 5oz is about all I can fit in with 1/16" sheet lead. If your careful you can use shot and epoxy but it is risky as you can end up glueing your ailerons at the tips if your not careful.
Old Jan 30, 2013, 02:04 PM
dsman is offline
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More like crunchman....
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Blimey, Jon, you don't do things by halves!
Old Jan 31, 2013, 12:53 PM
jonathan4000 is online now
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Jonathan Wells
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joe manor View Post
Use thin sheet lead. 5oz is about all I can fit in with 1/16" sheet lead. If your careful you can use shot and epoxy but it is risky as you can end up glueing your ailerons at the tips if your not careful.


Thanks Joe,

What are the dimensions of the lead sheet as I am struggling?

Jon
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 01:22 PM
ALEX HEWSON is offline
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Remember... Fly for fun!
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Anyone tried DS65ks in a D40 yet?
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Old Mar 16, 2013, 12:44 PM
luis94 is offline
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Puerto Rico (USA)
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Push Rod?


Hello,,
Got a question regarding the Push Rod,can the (.056 Brass Plated SS
Flexible #508) be used in change of the (.032 Very flexible #507)???

Luis.
Old Mar 17, 2013, 06:42 AM
dsman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALEX HEWSON View Post
Anyone tried DS65ks in a D40 yet?
I recently fitted two into a Stab Elite & awaiting wind to fly - previously fitted with DS100s.

Have another to fit into the fin of my D40, though it's not at the top of the build list.
Old Mar 17, 2013, 10:07 AM
spotterone is offline
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Can you DS it??
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luis94 View Post
Hello,,
Got a question regarding the Push Rod,can the (.056 Brass Plated SS
Flexible #508) be used in change of the (.032 Very flexible #507)???

Luis.
It might work, but you will probably get some binding in the bend at the tail. I used something like that in the first one I built, but in the end I got a very good result using the one Joe recommends.


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