[QUOTE=Raehm;16569298]Can anyone advise me on the correct and safe procedure for re-soldering a charger lead to a cell?

Thanks,[BE CAREFULL!!!! Don't let the leads touch! Learn from my mistake.]

Are completely (down to zero volts) discharged cells still chemically volatile somehow? Apart from potentially poisoning yourself with Cobalt or Manganese, are there any risks when completely disassembling such a cell?

Have never seen a reported incident of a discharged lipo burning/smoking/etc, however, there are risks in opening the cells as the electrolyte/solvent is not human friendly.
See the MSDS-
http://www.batteriesplus.com/msds/Li...SDS%200905.pdf

Why do you want to dissemble the cell?

Originally Posted by hoppy

Have never seen a reported incident of a discharged lipo burning/smoking/etc, however, there are risks in opening the cells as the electrolyte/solvent is not human friendly.
See the MSDS-
http://www.batteriesplus.com/msds/Li...SDS%200905.pdf

Why do you want to dissemble the cell?

Thanks hoppy!

I would like to salvage the micro sized plug to make a plug adapter. I prefer to disconnect the plug from the cell without exposing the electrolyte/chemicals but it might happen that the seal breaks and I like to know the risks.

Sandor

Shouldn't be a problem as the wires are usually connected to a printed circuit board.

I've read the "stickyed" threads on damaged Lipos, and got my 3 cell back to 3.02, 3.00, and 0.70.
Is there a way to charge the one cell without overcharging the other 2?

Thanks,

JSflyer

Make a charge cord that connects to the balance connector for only the low cell.

Sandor, there aren't any boards in these little single cells. However if you carefully cut the plastic shield off you will find the plug has two short wires that solder to the cell tabs. You can:

a) desolder them. or
b) cut them off with side cutters.

Just do it one wire at a time and don't let the cell tabs/wires short out.

There is no need or likelihood of penetrating the cell itself.

You can also get the shield off the Turnigy cells which use hot glue by just heating the battery a bit with a hot air gun till it softens. May not work with batteries that use some other method of attaching the plastic shield.

Hope this is useful. I've also removed a couple of the plugs just by yanking the shield off, then cutting the wires but that's a bit drastic for the first time.

John

Originally Posted by hoppy

Shouldn't be a problem as the wires are usually connected to a printed circuit board.

Hi Guys, having some 5 year daily experience with Lipos I find in above posts that lot of you are playing with the "FIRE" trying to recover bad cells. The most importantly is you should not bring the voltage bellow 3.7V per cell if you want long lasting reliable power supply, Joe.

Thanks, good stuff!

buy a new one

I read through this thread and have a question. I'm trying to recharge a dead 2200 lipo 3cell on a onyx235. I selected nimh but it asks me to select the voltage. There is no 11.1 so which should I go with? I'm going to charge it at .5 amps. It is DEAD! It wont even light up the led readout on the voltmeter.

NiMH chargers mostly require only an amperage input.
Set it for 0.5A or less and monitor the voltage.
Do not go away and leave it!

When it reaches 10V, you can try it on the lipo charger.

If it gets warm, puffs, or does anything else, discharge and toss.

It's that my charger forces me to select a voltage even when selecting to charge nimh. I guess I'll select the closest thing to 11.1 then.

Try 10.8 .

Keep an eye on it when charging. If anything unusual starts to occur, take it outside.