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Jan 22, 2011, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ysolomon
You're kidding me... I'm using whatever YOU recommended, and YOUR methods from your videos... This is the standard Pep Boys Brite Touch General Purpose gray primer. I think I already am using my 4th can... Sand, prime, sand prime, sand...

I'm actually about to start playing with yellow and blue on this baby... I've got all the yellow and blue (and semi-gloss finish) I need.

If the panel lines came out nice (they did)--I have YOU to thank!
Thanks! Regardless of how they got there, they sure look great! Can't wait to see when it's painted. I better get cooking or you're going to finish yours before mine! LOL.
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Jan 22, 2011, 07:41 PM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Look! They're blue... I forgot I should start with the Yellow first. I hope the Blue will not have a big effect on the Yellow on top... Otherwise--back to sanding...

Also--take a look at the rear (motor) hatch cover. I have just glued ply pieces under the opening in the fuselage, which is where I will embed the 6-32 blind nuts.
Last edited by ysolomon; Jan 22, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
Jan 23, 2011, 10:05 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ysolomon
So, what is the consensus on the CG location for this electric conversion?
Really looking good guys, I have actually been working on mine to get ready for the WRAM show beauty contest...adding the LEX Fences and an antenna mast that will cover my hatch latch.

As for the CG mine is exactly what the book calls for, no variation.

Kan, as far as the CC 160 in the airflow it's really not necessary as it's so overkill for these setups. I would be worried about all that weight back there as well as a disturbed airflow. Mine was barely warm after each flight.

On a side note I needed to re-adjust my pull-pull for the nose gear and broke the servo horn, so for all of us that wondered removing the servo was not too bad, just shortened an allen key to get to the servo screws and some patience. One tip for those of you that have not put it in yet DO NOT Loctite the servo screw and use the shortest mounting screws possible...

Lots of Hornets in the air this year!!!
Jan 23, 2011, 11:19 AM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
So that would be 12-1/2" FORWARD from the TE at the root? Ted--where did you put your hook? It looks like it goes right into F3, or slightly forward?
Jan 23, 2011, 01:05 PM
Dream Build Fly Scale
strictlyscale's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by ysolomon
Look! They're blue... I forgot I should start with the Yellow first. I hope the Blue will not have a big effect on the Yellow on top... Otherwise--back to sanding...

Also--take a look at the rear (motor) hatch cover. I have just glued ply pieces under the opening in the fuselage, which is where I will embed the 6-32 blind nuts.
After you mask out your area for yellow, mist in a thin coat of silver. Then paint yellow over that. Yellow (like red) is notoriously tough color for coverage. I've found that a little silver underneath makes the yellow pop...and saves you having to add many coats of yellow to get it to cover. Try it on your test pce first of course.
Jan 23, 2011, 02:11 PM
Build'em and Crash'em
Ken Lapointe's Avatar
Trying to figure out why my duct work does not fit great. The aft end seems to stick way to far out, I cant get the real exhaust nozzles back on easily. I know the tips need to be cut, but I am hitting the end where it starts to split.

Anyone else seen this problem ?

I guess I could cut the front part that attaches to the fan, but that part appears to taper, I hate to play with that at all
Jan 23, 2011, 05:17 PM
Registered User
bri6672's Avatar
Ken mine align nice but you have to fiddle with it, take some pics for everyone to see before you modify anything.
Jan 23, 2011, 07:32 PM
Registered User
I didn't have to cut my tailpipe at all but I made the section from the back of fan to the thrust tube from flight skin. My fan is actually back an 1 1/2" from the intake as well to make a smoother transition.
Jan 23, 2011, 07:42 PM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlyscale
After you mask out your area for yellow, mist in a thin coat of silver. Then paint yellow over that. Yellow (like red) is notoriously tough color for coverage. I've found that a little silver underneath makes the yellow pop...and saves you having to add many coats of yellow to get it to cover. Try it on your test pce first of course.
Thanks, good advice! I'll do that.
Jan 23, 2011, 07:44 PM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Lapointe
Trying to figure out why my duct work does not fit great. The aft end seems to stick way to far out, I cant get the real exhaust nozzles back on easily. I know the tips need to be cut, but I am hitting the end where it starts to split.

Anyone else seen this problem ?

I guess I could cut the front part that attaches to the fan, but that part appears to taper, I hate to play with that at all
Ken, if I remember correctly--you moved the fan back to get the right CG, and you are still using the original engine ducting. If so--you would have too much thrust tube... I am not planning on using the original engine unit, and use Fliteskin instead, cut to exactly what I need so that the thrust tube fits perfectly. With moving the motor/fan back--it makes you need to add another tube of Fliteskin in the front, too.
Jan 23, 2011, 08:34 PM
Build'em and Crash'em
Ken Lapointe's Avatar
No, I used the standard fan location, right up front against the inlet, then the kit parts.

I decided I did not want to deal with making the round to oval shape after the fan

I tried to insert the tube in as far as the lip, but that does not seem to be enough. If I go much farther than that then it bulges up
Jan 24, 2011, 09:53 AM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Ken--I don't think the "round to oval" transition is something you have to do. The thrust tube, if you push on it from the sides, is actually round. I am simply going to make a Fliteskin cylinder that goes into it, and if it wants to naturally take an oval shape--let it... It should be a simple cylinder...

However--I heard from many that this airplane would be nose heavy if you put the fan in the original plan (although it does save you making one tube...). I just got the batteries last week. Those are two heavy bricks, I tell you... They will make this plan nose heavy...

My 2 cents.
Jan 24, 2011, 11:29 AM
Build'em and Crash'em
Ken Lapointe's Avatar
I do need to see how it balances. I have some flight skin so its worth a quick check on my end to see how hard or easy it would be to move the fan back a bit and do it that way. Though I'm not sure I can really move the fan all that far back and make a big difference. I'm not sure I make any headway if I move the fan back and the ESC forward.

I also think I need some stiffer springs for the landing gear. My gear is almost bottomed out and the batteries are not even in the plane yet.
Jan 24, 2011, 11:41 AM
Another one on the way...
ysolomon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Lapointe
I also think I need some stiffer springs for the landing gear. My gear is almost bottomed out and the batteries are not even in the plane yet.
You know something? I have a suspicion I have the same problem. When I tried it (even without the fan, let alone batteries)--I felt it was too low... Let me know what you end up doing.

Yoram.
Jan 24, 2011, 01:47 PM
Registered User
bri6672's Avatar
GUYS DO NOT CHANGE THE SPRINGS!!!! I know that they bottom out and according to Yellow thats what they are supposed to do! Any additional stiffness will make taxiing the plane a nightmare! Both Charles and Shaun at Yellow have assured me this is the way they need to be for it to taxi correctly!


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