Great Planes Reactor Bipe GP/EP Sport 3D .61 ARF Review - RC Groups

Great Planes Reactor Bipe GP/EP Sport 3D .61 ARF Review

The new Great Planes Performance Series Reactor Bipe 61 ARF is is big, bold, brash, blue and orange and downright bad to the bone. Electric or glow power, you had better fasten your seat belt!



Wing Area:1145 sq. in.
Weight:7-7.5 lbs.
Wing Loading:14-15 oz/sq. ft.
Servos:Futaba 9650 Digital (Seven)
Transmitter:Futaba 10C 2.4 GHz FAAST
Receiver:Futaba R617FS 2.4 GHz FAAST 7 channel
Battery:Electrifly 11.1V 3200 mAh 20C lipoly (Two in series)
Motor:ElectriFly RimFire 50-55-500 Brushless Outrunner
ESC:ElectriFly Silver Series 60 amp Hi Volt Brushless ESC
Flight Duration:5-8 minutes
Manufacturer:Great Planes
Available From:Your Local Hobby Shop or Tower Hobbies

Great Planes Reactor Bipe Review 2008

I was stoked to start the 2008 reviewing season off by doing the Great Planes Reactor Bipe. The original smaller park flyer sized Reactor Bipe so captured my fancy that it remains a part of my active hangar to this day. And it is on the very short list of planes I will immediately replace should anything happen to them. So, the chance to wrap up the latter part of the 2009 flying and review season by doing the recently introduced 60 size Reactor Bipe seemed a superb idea to me, and I jumped at the opportunity. Sporting a similar graphics layout but with a brash orange and blue color scheme, this larger sibling comes out of the box ready to accept either an electric or nitro power system. Other notable features in this latest member of the Great Planes Performance Series include air foiled tail surfaces, Monokote covering and pre-hinged control surfaces. Are bigger biplanes better!?

Kit Contents

In The Box

  • Built up balsa and lite ply fuselage, wings, and tail surfaces pre-covered with Monokote
  • Pair of wooden, pre-covered wing interstruts
  • Fiberglass cowl, landing gear, wing pylon and wheel pants
  • Clear canopy
  • White spinner
  • Pair of main wheels/tires and one tail wheel assembly
  • Hook and loop fastener (non-adhesive backed)
  • Large heat shrink for servo extension connections
  • Complete and comprehensive hardware and fasteners
  • Motor mount and fuel tank (For nitro version - unused in this review)
  • 35 page black and white photo-illustrated assembly manual
  • Lite ply CG marker plate and balancing jig
  • Lite ply power system battery mounting plate and speed controller bracket
  • Metal push rods and clevis'
  • One sheet of decals

Required for Completion

  • .61 two stroke, .70 to .91 four stroke or Rimfire .80 brushless outrunner motor
  • Electronic speed controller and lipoly batteries if using electric power system
  • 4-5 channel radio system
  • 7-8 servos
  • Various servo Y connectors and extensions, depending on builders choice of servo connection scheme
  • Propeller
  • Motor mounting hardware
  • Larger servo arms (for 3D flight performance)

Included for Review

  • Electrifly RimFire 50-55-500 brushless outrunner motor (80 size - Rated @ 1400 watts maximum)
  • Electrifly Silver Series 60 amp Hi Volt brushless electronic speed controller
  • Electrifly 11.1V 3200 mAh 20C lipoly batteries (two in series for 22.2V 6S)
  • Futaba 9650 High Torque, High Speed Digital Mini Servo (quantity seven)
  • Futaba R617FS 2.4 GHz FAAST 7 channel receiver
  • Futaba NR4F NiCad 4.8V 1500mAh flat receiver battery pack
  • APC Thin Electric 15X8 propeller
  • Great Planes Electrifly large motor mount for brushless motors
  • Great Planes 1/5 scale sport pilot


Reactor Bipe 60 Assembly Manual

The Great Planes instruction manuals are typically detailed, complete and comprehensive, and the Reactor Bipe 60 manual is no exception. Thirty five pages in length, its black and white photos serve as an excellent guide to help get the plane built quickly and correctly. It covers installation of both electric and nitro power systems and recommendations on the different types of servos that may be used, as well as a wealth of information on AMA safety guidelines, an extensive preflight checklist and even a page on proper push rod geometry. I did find a minor omission in connection with utilizing an electric power system. More on that in the "Completion" section below.

One small difficulty encountered during my assembly involved the screws to anchor the control horns to the control surfaces. When attaching control horns to control surfaces, it is commonplace to drill holes completely through the control surfaces and then use a twp piece control horn, effectively sandwiching the control surface between the control horn and its backing plate with a pair of screws. This kit comes with the standard two piece control horns BUT Great Planes actually deviates from what is typical and instead builds a hardwood insert or plate into each and every control surface on the big Reactor bipe. Thus, it is not necessary to drill holes all the way through the control surfaces, nor is it necessary to use the second piece of the control horns. What is necessary is to ensure that you locate the control horns atop the hardwood inserts, as indicated in the photographs in the manual, and drill 1/16" pilot holes for the #2 x 1/2 " screws. Harden the holes with CA after threading the screws in and out of the holes once, and allow it time to dry. Attach the control horn to the control surface and toss the control horn backing plates into your parts bin for spares. They are not used on this model.

Well, actually I did use them due to me not catching this detail in the assembly instructions! I like the design decision to embed hardwood plates but the manual could be a little clearer, especially since they include the control horn backing plates. The instructions reference a sketch that is non-existent and the precise locations of the hardwood plates are thus not dimensionally provided.

NOTE: Ezone reviews are not intended to be build guides per se, or to take the place of the assembly manual typically included in a kit. Here are a few highlights of my build of the Great Planes Reactor Bipe 60 ARF.


The Reactor Bipe 60 utilizes four individual aileron servos instead of one pair of servos and linked top and bottom ailerons as is the case on the smaller Reactor Bipe. This is certainly preferred on a larger airframe such as this. The bulk of the work in assembling the wings is getting the four Futaba 9650 digital servos used for the ailerons ready for installation (detailed in the Radio System Installation section below).

Pull strings are provided for routing the aileron servo leads to the centers of each wing. There are several ways to connect the four ailerons to the receiver, and it is best to read over the section in the assembly manual entitled "Radio/Servo Recommendations" before you start assembly of the wings. Doing so will help the builder obtain and install the proper servo extensions and/or Y harnesses.

Correctly mounting both wings on a biplane can be a difficult assignment but Great Planes greatly simplifies this process on the big Reactor Bipe. Lite ply tabs serve as the mounting points for the inter wing struts. Small 4-40 blind nuts are glued to these tabs and in part facilitate easy wing removal for transport or storage of the biplane.

When gluing these tabs into the wings, the manual advises using 30 minute epoxy. I used 15 minute epoxy because it is what I had on the shelf but I would not recommend using anything faster. It is important to have a window of time to ensure that the wing tabs and wings are perfectly aligned before the glue sets.

The method of attaching the two wings is engineered in such a way that it is very difficult to do it improperly, but only if the builder carefully and diligently follows the specific assembly steps. When adhered to closely, the wings will not only be easily removable but perfectly aligned every time they are installed.

The top wing center mounting pylon is a thick and sturdy fiberglass composition piece. I did find it necessary to Dremel a hole in it in order for the top wing aileron servo leads to pass through it on their way to the fuselage. This pylon has a pair of holes that index onto two wooden dowels that are epoxied into the bottom of the top wing. The top wing is fastened to this pylon with a long 6/32 socket head cap screw.

The trailing edge of the bottom wing comes with two holes pre-drilled for the bottom wing mount bolts (1/4-20 X 2" nylon slotted head screws). It is thus easy to properly position the lite ply wing mount doubler plate, and mounting the wing to the fuselage after the epoxy has been applied to it ensures a good glue joint. Just take care that no epoxy finds its way to the two nylon wing retention screws!

The four aileron push rods are constructed by spinning a plastic clevis onto the threaded end of the 2-56 push rod and soldering a metal clevis onto the non-threaded end. (See "Soldering 101" section below.) The three other push rods in the kit use metal clevises on both ends. I would have preferred the same on the aileron push rods.

Fuselage and tail

Fuselage assembly includes attaching the landing gear and gluing the two stabilizers in place. I was duly impressed with the quality of the fiberglass landing gear struts, cowl and wheel pants that came with the smaller Reactor Bipe and this larger Reactor maintains the same high standards with it's glass work. The paint is deep and glossy and perfectly matches the color of the bright orange Monokote covering. The landing gear and wheel pants are sturdy and assemble quickly. A trio of 4/40 socket head cap screws attach each gear leg to the fuselage. Don't forget to Dremel a flat spot on the axles so that the wheel collar can get an enduring bite.

Though the four ailerons come pre-hinged, the builder will have to hinge the empennage. CA hinges are provided. My horizontal stabilizer slid into the slot in the fuselage with some resistance, which I thought a good thing. Due to dual elevator servos being utilized, there is no need to install an elevator joiner rod to connect the twin elevators. Unlike the smaller Reactor Bipe, this bigger sibling includes a tail wheel assembly. My ears were thankful to find it included, as the smaller Reactor's lack of a true tail wheel causes it to make quite the sound as it scrapes along the pavement on a take off roll! The horizontal and vertical stabilizers, elevators and rudder are all notably air foiled.

The two elevator and single rudder servo openings in the rear of the fuselage need the covering cut away in order to expose the servo mounting areas. The Futaba 9650 digital servos slipped right into the cut outs with no need to make the holes larger with a file or sandpaper. Pay attention to page 30 in the assembly manual. It is entitled Proper Pushrod Hookup - Avoiding Flutter, Maximizing Servo Output Torque and contains some very good information on both proper pushrod configuration and pushrod configurations to avoid.

Power System Installation

Mounting the Electrifly power system components is covered in the assembly manual. Using the recommended components limits the need to improvise or engineer any modifications. The firewall comes with blind nuts pre-installed, and the battery hatch on the belly of the fuselage makes for easy access to the back of the firewall. It is very easy to get the motor assembly mounted to the firewall. If you forget to apply thread locking compound to the four motor mount screws, it is easily done after the fact by squirting a dab or two on them from the back side of the firewall. The proper amount of thrust is built into the firewall and is easily visible, especially after the motor is attached to the firewall.

Electrifly makes a selection of sturdy and adjustable electric motor mounts. I like the way they feel in your hand, beefy and stout. One was included for this review. The Rimfire motor mounted directly to it with no need to drill any holes or even modify existing holes. To make the motor/mount assembly meet the recommended firewall-to-spinner backplate dimension, I had to adjust the mount to it's shortest dimension. In actuality, I would have liked to lose another few millimeters from this dimension so that my spinner to cowl clearance would have been smaller than it ended up being. To successfully accomplish this would have required a little Dremel time so in the end, I decided the gap between the spinner and cowl was not so large to justify the time required to cut the mount down a little.

Electrifly has recently been adding higher capacity speed controllers to their line up. This is the first time I have had a chance to look at their 60 amp controller. It is an aesthetically pleasing package, with a large black heat sink dominating one side of the package. The Reactor Bipe kit includes a 3 piece ply ESC mount, onto which the Electrifly 60 fits perfectly. Small screws are used to secure the ESC to this mount, which is then epoxied to the lower area of the firewall.

I assembled the ESC mounting platform with CA and then used five minute epoxy to secure it to the firewall. I like the design and inclusion of the ESC mount. Often times, it is left up to the builder to decide the where and how of mounting the speed controller. Great Planes took the guesswork out of it and at the same time, their mount locates it in a location sure to get a decent supply of cooling airflow.

A lite ply battery tray is also included in the ARF box. Several long pieces of hook and loop fastener are provided to wrap around the twin 3S 3200 mAh lipoly batteries and the tray upon which they will rest. The assembly manual recommends gluing the tray into the fuselage. The supplied battery hatch is held strongly in place with magnets on its aft end. The forward end of this door has a lip which fits under the fuselage bottom. Battery insertion and removal is quick and easy.

Radio Installation

One small detail in connection with this kit that I really like is the inclusion of large heat shrink to be used for securing the servo extension connections. I have in the past used electrical tape or string or even dental floss to make sure my extensions are secure. I really like using a large diameter heat shrink to insure that the connections will not accidentally pull apart. But most of us do not have heat shrink of this diameter just lying around our shops, so kudos to Great Planes for including it in the box!

Using the Futaba 9650 servos included for this review project on the Reactor Bipe 60 gives this plane big ears! You talk to it with your transmitter, even in a whisper of a stick movement and it listens right away and responds immediately!

The four aileron servos get mounted in a method that is pretty typical. Hardwood mounting blocks or sticks are epoxied to small plates made of lite ply. The servos are mounted to the hardwood blocks with their included hardware. Always harden the mounting holes with a few drops of thin CA. I like to space the servos so they "float" above the ply plates a small amount, instead of just letting them lay directly on the lite ply. This helps isolate them from the vibration of the airframe, as does using the rubber mounting grommets included with most servos. When mounting them, make sure you orient them correctly so that the centerline of the servo horn aligns with the center of the horn slot on the ply plate. If you are not observant during this step, you may mount them backwards and have clearance problems when you mount the aileron servo assemblies to the wings.

Though not necessarily cavernous, the interior of the fuselage has ample space for mounting the receiver. In my case, I needed to plan my layout so I would also have space for the 1500mAh receiver battery pack. Small nylon ty-wraps do wonders for keeping a radio and servo installation neat and under control. It is much easier to spot something out of place when the servo leads are all neatly run and ty-wrapped together than when the leads are just balled up and crammed into the fuselage. A small ty-wrap suffices to hold the receiver in place.

Push Rod Soldering 101

I used to do a lot of soldering as a part of my occupation, mostly of printed circuit boards and the installing of components like resistors, capacitors, etc. The soldering necessary to assemble the push rods for the Reactor Bipe is slightly different than that used to mount electronics on a PCB, however. The assembly manual does a nice job of clearly explaining exactly what is needed and how you go about making the push rods up. I thought I would document my efforts as a supplemental set of instructions, to be used in conjunction with the instructions provided by Great Planes. One of the most important parts of the process is the flux. What is flux and why is it needed? The answer is:

Cleanliness is essential for efficient, effective soldering. Solder will not adhere to dirty, greasy, or oxidized surfaces. Heated metals tend to oxidize rapidly. This is the reason the oxides, scale, and dirt must be removed by chemical or mechanical means. Grease or oil films can be removed with a suitable solvent. Connections to be soldered should be cleaned just prior to the actual soldering operation... When the surface has been properly cleaned, a thin, even coating of flux should be placed over the surface to be tinned to prevent oxidation while the part is being heated to soldering temperature.

The photo above illustrates everything you will need to make up the push rods for the big Reactor Bipe.

Thread a plastic clevis onto the threaded end of the push rod. Add two pieces of the included fuel tubing, which acts as a locking device for the clevises. Neutralize the aileron and measure from the center line of the holes on the servo horn and aileron control horns. Slide one of the metal clevises to be soldered onto the other end (the unthreaded end) of the push rod. Position it so the measurement just taken will be the distance between the pins on the plastic and metal push rod clevises. Trim the push rod if necessary. Mark this position with a Sharpie.

Clean the end of the push rod to be soldered with rubbing alcohol. Roughen the end up with sandpaper or an emery board. The metal must be free of any oxidation or impurities for the solder to really flow properly.

Apply a little flux to the end of the push rod. Heat it with a soldering iron. Slide the metal clevis onto the push rod. Position it by using the alignment mark made above. Apply a little more flux, and then start heating the joint with your soldering iron.

When the joint is hot enough, apply some solder. It should flow and look shiny if the temperature is right. When it has cooled, verify that it is the correct measurement. Small adjustments can be made by turning the plastic clevis in or out. The aileron push rods are different than the elevator and rudder push rods in that they have a plastic threaded clevis on one end and a soldered metal one on the other end. The rudder and elevator push rods are metal on both ends.

The completed joint should look shiny and the solder should have flowed into the clevis and pretty much filled in around its open jaws. It is a good idea to try to pull the soldered end off. A proper solder joint will not give at all, no matter how hard a person pulls on it.


The pilot figure pictured below does not come with the ARF but can be purchased for a few bucks. The one I chose was a wee bit tall for the cockpit of the Reactor, and so I took him down a notch or two with a razor saw. After removing the covering from the place in the cockpit where he will be seated, I used hot glue to permanently anchor him in place. Though the instructions suggest the use of canopy glue to attach the lexan canopy, I instead used very small wood screws to attach the canopy to the fuselage to allow easy reentry into the cockpit if necessary.

When using an electric power system, a supply of cooling air to your motor, speed controller and battery is usually imperative. Many of the newer lipoly batteries have such C ratings of 30 or even 40 and they can endure a little extra heat. Though the assembly instructions do not mention the need to provide a path for cooling air to enter and exit the air frame, a hole is provided in the fuselage bottom just aft of the trailing edge of the wing. You will need to locate the hole and then remove the covering from over the top of it with a sharp hobby blade. I used my Dremel to cut a nice hole in the cowl for the cooling air to enter the fuselage. Air in ... air out!

Though the cowl on the smaller Reactor Bipe attached to the fuselage with several magnets, this larger one uses small screws. Small wooden discs get inserted between the cowl and fuselage to spread the load of the screw heads out onto a larger area.

Great Planes includes a very simple piece of ply in the box, with three lines etched on it to help the builder properly transfer the recommended range of CG to the underside of the top wing. Providing this simple tool helps minimize, if not eliminate, any assembler making a potentially catastrophic mistake when measuring for the critical point of balance. The piece of wood indexes onto the two aligning dowels located on the underside of the top wing and the three marks are then transferred to the wing by using tape or a Sharpie. Though a nifty lite ply balance jig is included in the kit (assembly required) and I also own the one manufactured by Hobbico, I tend to just use my two index fingers when checking the CG.

Recommended Range of CG
Maximum Forward Limit 4.5" (114mm)
Recommended Starting Point 5.25" (133mm)
Maximum Aft Limit 6.0" (152mm)
(All measurements made from center LE of top wing)

Though the two wings are easily removable, the 48" wingspan Reactor Bipe will fit fully assembled into many SUVs and crossover vehicles.

Loaded into my 2003 Nissan Murano



Great Planes makes the following control throw recommendations in the assembly manual:

Recommended Control Surface Throws
Low Rate High Rate 3D Rate
Elevator (22.2mm)1 3/8" (35mm) 2 3/4" (70mm)
Ailerons 3/8" (9.5mm) 7/8" (22.2mm) 1 1/2" (38mm)
Rudder 2 1/4" (57mm) 3 1/2" (89mm) 5" (127mm) **
** The angles on the elevator halves inhibits this amount of throw being attained

I recommend making the first flight on low rates. If your Reactor takes to the skies as straight as mine did on its first flight as mine did, you will be reaching for the rates switch in less than 60 seconds! Just make sure you have your seat belt fastened tightly!

Taking Off and Landing

With nearly 1400 watts on tap, takeoffs with the big Reactor Bipe are akin to launching a rocket into space. Though the all-up-weight is around 7.5 pounds, the big Electrifly Rimfire motor yanks the biplane skyward with a vengeance! A slightly different but equally exhilarating style of takeoff involves letting the tail come up, keeping the bipe planted on its mains and then intentionally holding it on the ground until the speed builds.

Landings are described in the assembly manual in the introduction with these words: "handles amazingly well at slow speeds and is an absolute hoot to bring in nice and slow for a landing.

The twin wings generate a substantial amount of lift, and the Reactor Bipe will keep flying at a fairly slow speed. When you do reach the point where the wings no longer generate lift, the nose will predictably drop straight forward. Aerobatic planes like the Reactor Bipe like to be flown down the glide slope and onto the ground. Use the throttle to control the rate of descent and resist the temptation to use the elevator until you are back on the ground and need to keep the tail planted. This larger Reactor lands very much the same as its smaller sibling. I like to slip it into high alpha and use the two wings to bleed airspeed in preparation for landing. It is easy to harrier the Reactor down into a three point landing, and it really looks great with its nose pointed high as it settles back to earth.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

This is the first larger plane that I have flown that is equipped with Futaba digital servos on all control surfaces. I have to say that I definitely perceive a reduction in overall latency when flying the big Reactor Bipe as equipped. My trusty Futaba 10C transmitter with the 2.4 gHz module is an excellent choice for flying this one, especially since you can configure triple rates with it. With the flip of one switch on my 10C, I can transform the big Reactor Bipe from a pattern style ship to an aerobatic machine and then on into a maniacal 3D monster.

With the nearly 1400 watts of power yielding a power to weight ratio of almost 200 watts per pound, unlimited vertical up lines with maintained and blindingly fast aileron rolls until the big Reactor is specked out, will leave most onlookers shaking their upturned heads in disbelief. Flip the bipe on its back, and it will continue on its way with barely a touch of down elevator required. Inverted turns will require a bit more pressure on the stick to keep the nose from falling but the Reactor Bipe is amazingly neutral with the CG in the middle of the recommended range, no matter which way is up. I notice a lot of similarities between the smaller park flyer sized Reactor Bipe and this larger version. High alpha flight is the forte of both, with this larger Reactor being more than willing to parade around the sky with its nose pointed high. Knife edge flight has very little coupling, provided you are not leaning on the rudder stick very hard. With increased rudder deflection, I did notice a tendency for the bipe to tuck towards the gear. I tend to just correct it with the other stick, instead of mixing it out in the radio programming. The airframe is more than sturdy, as full throttle maneuvers were all handled with no complaints. I did notice a tendency for the pitch axis to be overly sensitive at higher speeds when on mid or high rates, so I increased the expo and decreased the throws a little also. Coming across the field fast and low, with a hard pull up into a wall and on into a hover is another maneuver the Reactor performs very well. There is plenty of power produced by the big Electrifly Rimfire outrunner to hold the bipe in the hover and the vertical punch out is good, although it does take a little for the big bipe to start climbing heavenward again.

Is This For a Beginner?

This plane is not just the three-in-one aircraft as which it is marketed, but I would argue that itís a four-in-one biplane. Though it is true that this air frame can do triple duty as a pattern type ship, an aerobatic performer and a 3D maniac, I would venture to say that it is also a capable sport plane. Keep the control throws dialed down and on the conservative and tame side, and this plane will cruise around the skies all day in a very well behaved fashion. Though beginning pilots definitely need not apply, any aspiring pattern/aerobatic/3D pilot with intermediate skills could safely get this plane up and down and then keep growing with it.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery


For those readers who may prefer a glow engine power system, Jason, a Hobbico employee and Futaba sponsored factory pilot, puts the Reactor bipe through its paces with an OS .91 Surpass four stroke engine stuffed in its nose. (See YouTube video link below)


Because I was lucky enough to review the smaller original Reactor Bipe almost two years ago, I cannot help but compare this larger one to it. The smaller one is an incredibly capable, and in my opinion overlooked, airplane. I have let several of my aerobatic and 3D pilot friends fly it, and they all were surprised and amazed at what it could do. This larger Reactor Bipe is all that and more. Bigger is better, and this version of the Reactor is even more capable than the smaller one, with its smaller mass. I really like that they kept the same high quality fiberglass parts, with their deep and glossy paint finish. And I am thrilled Great Planes went with a bona fide tail wheel on this larger version.

The Reactor Bipe 60 ARF is big, bad, blue and orange, and it really rips on the Rimfire 80 brushless outrunner and 6S power system. Whether you prefer a more precise style of flying, hard core aerobatics or the unlimited style of 3D flying, this airframe will be of interest to you. Even casual sport flyers will probably enjoy the honest attributes of this biplane. Keep it electric, and it will reward you with years of mess free and relatively quiet high performance radio control flying.


  • All four ailerons pre-hinged out of the box
  • Can be built to go with either a nitro or electric power system
  • Air foiled tail surfaces
  • Super deep, glossy paint finish on all fiberglass pieces
  • Large heat shrink tubing for securing servo extensions included
  • Can do anything you ask it to do, and then some
  • Bigger is better!


  • Instructions could be clearer on the mounting of the control horns and the cutting of the hole in the underbelly for cooling air to exit

A special thanks to Terry, Don and Neil for their assistance with this review!

Last edited by Bajora; Oct 20, 2009 at 04:15 PM..
Thread Tools
Oct 20, 2009, 04:41 PM
Flazo's Avatar
Any other Choices for electric motors?


BTW really nice review.. I must get that small bipe.
Oct 20, 2009, 05:09 PM
Registered User
Michael Heer's Avatar
Vimeo videos were password protected when I went to check them out. Otherwise another very nice review. Mike H
Oct 20, 2009, 05:29 PM
Failure is ALWAYS an option
I've been waiting so long for this review! Once again great job! I love the complete coverage of the entire kit from the mailbox to the touch down.

Keep it up!

Oct 20, 2009, 05:49 PM
Bajora's Avatar
Thanks Mike...I'll remove the passwords now
Latest blog entry: My Blade 200S
Oct 20, 2009, 08:43 PM
Pug Pilot
moxjett's Avatar
Last edited by moxjett; Oct 22, 2009 at 06:18 PM.
Oct 20, 2009, 11:28 PM
We shall serve the Lord
kingsflyer's Avatar
Great job, Jon. I just sent a link to one of our club members that has been waiting for your review before he starts his build.

1400 Watts! Oh, My. No wonder it goes like that.

Latest blog entry: LEDs on my T-28
Oct 21, 2009, 08:22 AM

How much expo?

I'm getting ready to maiiden mine and wanted to know how much expo are you using.

Oct 21, 2009, 08:51 AM
Registered User
mexico's Avatar
Doesn't 7.5 lbs sound like a lot for a 48" model? Even if it is a bipe. I had a Twin Shark biplane a few years ago. I think it had a 55" span and weight only 6.5 lbs.
Oct 21, 2009, 09:11 AM
Bajora's Avatar
I use 40% on low and mid rates, 50% on 3D.
Latest blog entry: My Blade 200S
Oct 21, 2009, 04:37 PM
Pug Pilot
moxjett's Avatar
Last edited by moxjett; Oct 22, 2009 at 06:17 PM.
Oct 21, 2009, 05:11 PM
Registered User
mexico's Avatar
Why would you select a mono wing model as the appropriate comparison? Why not another biplane? I am not saying there is anything wrong with the Reactor. It was just an observation.
Oct 21, 2009, 05:35 PM
Pug Pilot
moxjett's Avatar
Last edited by moxjett; Oct 22, 2009 at 06:17 PM.
Oct 21, 2009, 10:31 PM
Cant fly enough
Greg Beshouri's Avatar
Jon, how do you do it!

I just discovered this airplane yesterday and you already have it with a complete review!

You are my hero!

Oct 21, 2009, 10:39 PM
"I Am The Animal!" in training
helifryer's Avatar
hey barnsjonr

nice review! i love the plane!

i would like to know where you got the RCgroups Decal sticker that you have on the aileron. i want one for my reactor (the smaller monowinged yellow/red one. )


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