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Starting the build with a couple of questions . . .
Hi Guys,
Here's the plan: 1. 3S version bought- pulling out the "guts" and adding some aftermarket stuff 2. Adding Full BellyPan, extension, esc fairing from Gary 3. Adding 1/2a control dubro horns and 2mm threaded rods and metal clevis(s) 4. Added HET 2904 w/ 2W-20 motor 5. Added HET 75A ESC 6. Adding emax digital MG servos 7. Adding 3.2mm cf rods running from battery try to nose and up each delta wing from aft to front. 8. Using 4S3000mah 35c or 4S2650 mah 40c batteries Look ok? Thought about just brusing on some West Systems Resin straight to the foam without the cloth? Need to program the HET 75A for any special setup? Any last minute tips or suggestions? Thanks all, I'll try and document as I go . . Tbird911 |
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Maybe lightly sand and fill the mating surfaces and use an old credit card to spread the epoxy like a squeegee, use a folded paper tower and carefully blend the stroke marks. Better yet ad bubbs to the epoxy. Micro balloons @ 50/50 per volume would require some finish sanding but be really nice.
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I think when you say epoxy, in my case we're talking about the West Systems 105 resin. I assume that adding the bubs adds volume when the material sets up and then it can be sanded down and used to shape, even out and contour where the surfaces have dents, pits or join. Right? So, now that we have the "top coat", what adhesive works best for actually building the plane, joing the wings etc? I always wondered what the best solution is for applying 5-7 minute epoxy to the pieces (wings in this case) that are being joined. Once you mixe the two solutions together and stir, are you guys using some sort of swabs or brushes or? to distribute the stuff to the two joing pieces? How does Gorilla Glue stack up against the competition in being used for joining the wings versus regular 5-7 mintue epoxy? |
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Don't use West System Epoxy straight onto the foam.
It's like coating ice cream with that liquid chocolate stuff. A good blow on the surface and it will dent and flake. Besides it's heavy. .5oz glasscloth set in WBPU is much more protective, is lighter and can be lightly sanded to a super finish which can be painted without any primer coat. I speak from experience. (Don't ask me how I know) Paddy. |
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Haven't taken the time to experiment with the GG. Go with what you got if you don't want to spend more. The bubbs and poxy will glue your wings well. Use a .10 cent flux brush from soldering supplies to brush the stuff lightly on both surfaces, all the corners etc. Line up the bottom edges perfict and masking tape in position, wipe off the ooze with a paper towel and alchohol and wait an hour. If you go with wpbu to finish use a foam brush, clean up with water. Don't worry about what you finish with as it will all crack eventually when applied to foam. Try to get some carbon rod for fuse and wing spars. This time around I simply brushed on wpbu sanded tween coats for a tougher finish. The only glassing done is on the tunnel for the dreaded landing flop.
Just remember it your plane, you can finish it any way you want, it just hurts more when It's number is up. (ask me how I know) My suggestion is simply, build it, fly it, and if you like how it performs then imediately order another one and start building a back up. |
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Hello Guys
This plane seems great. It should fly well with the 2w20 I got in my Twister. I think I am going to take the electronics from my Twister to put in the Squall. I am wondering if this one is the real one from RipMax Prices seems very low! http://shop.eflypower.com/shop/views.asp?hw_id=1985 I know it comes only with TV and EDF, but it's cheap. I am not sure it comes with all the linkages...... What do you think ? |
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Hi Squallers! Yes after my last flight with my old Squall! on HET2W/6904 (-> I should have pulled earlier . . .) I could not resist, I grabbed 4 weeks later, last saturday a new one. Now a 4s HP with the TV-unit, on 4s 2600 40C hiQ lipos. The upper side is sprayed, the inlet is glassed with mats and PU-coating (the same as WBPU) and afterwards all was painted 3 times with PU-coat. All stock equipment. 780gr AUW. I am happy to maiden it next weekend. Only some CG adjustments and the ride can start Thats after the phase 3 EF 16 the best easy jet foamie - I love those
markus |
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Latest blog entry: Eagletree Guardian vs. Eagletree Vector
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uh . .oh . .ok . .. |
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Latest blog entry: Eagletree Guardian vs. Eagletree Vector
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.."I should have pulled earlier" ...sounds to me like he did not complete the bottom part of a loop...or something similar..aka..he crashed..!
Bill |
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Oh sorry - my message was another. My HET 2W Squall! was fine. The prob is that she "was fine", as I crashed it. From the crash the lipo died and the motor also - never had something like this. Now I built a stock HP Squall! because I have not enough time for a modded one . . . and want to fly immediately.
But as I checked the crashed HET-version I saw that the high Amperes of the 2W (60A) showed some effects. the solder points of the motor wires looked a bit toasted and the area where those passed the fuse showed some melted foam. I think a 2W-20 on 4s with some lower Amperes could be the better way to go. But now I have to check my new one. What would you speculate the 4s HP to perform in comparison to my old HET 2W driven? Will the speed be significant lower. From calculating it the HET had around 720 W (12Vx60A) - the stock 4s HP should reach around 670W (16Vx42A). The TV unit may waste some watts I believe. Ah the "I should have pulled earlier" was a (to low) dive, where I didnt manage to pull her up. It crashed on the belly/inlet (another 2 meters and I had rescued it...) , the ESC shot through the plane and the motor was damaged from the impact. A friend said "yes - yes those jets dont get to old". markus |
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