1952 Century Sea Maid '18' -1/6th scale - Page 9 - RC Groups
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Jul 04, 2010, 10:07 PM
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RussellTate's Avatar
Nice Instructions on that wiring!
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Jul 05, 2010, 03:01 PM
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Now that all the wiring runs are basically done in the hull, you can continue on with the build with some of the sub assemblies as well as the deck framing of the hull.

The first assembly will be the angle frame work for the dash board which is glued onto the front of frame #F2B. Take a piece of the 1/8 x 1/4 basswood batten material and cut a piece 4 3/4 long. This piece will be glued on its 1/8 thick side against the face, flush with the bottom of the frame, between the laser etched lines on either side of the dash board opening. Then two additional pieces will be glued on top of the bottom piece to the top of the frame next to the deck batten notches. The two end pieces will be trimmed and sanded at an angle from the 1/4 base at the bottom to flush at the top of the frame.
Jul 05, 2010, 03:08 PM
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Now the previously finished dash board light box can be installed to the back of the frame #F2B. Making sure that the top of the box is below and centered on the center deck batten notch. The box can be glued in with medium CA glue.
Jul 05, 2010, 03:15 PM
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The light bulb can now be removed from the back of the light box, and the entire interior of the light box as well as the face of the frame inside the angled dash board frame work can be painted with gloss white paint.
Jul 05, 2010, 03:20 PM
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Gravman's Avatar
You go! Looking real nice.

Jul 05, 2010, 03:42 PM
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At this time cut free all of the numbered sub decking parts from laser sheets, SD1, SD2, and SD3. Using straight pins like legs on a table, stick pins in from the number side of the parts so you can coat the backs of all the parts with thinned out epoxy finishing resin. Also at this time take all the 1/8 x 3/4 x 36 balsa deck battens and coat one side of battens before use.

Some of the other parts which can be coated on the back side with resin are the floor board, S10, the kick board parts, KB, and the foot throttle parts, FT.
Jul 05, 2010, 04:12 PM
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While waiting for the resin to cure on the sub deck parts and battens, the seat sub assemblies can be built from the parts on laser sheet S3. Once all the laser cut parts have been released from the laser sheet S3, assembly is straight forward using the assembly drawings, DWG#1 for the rear seat frame, and DWG#2 for the front seat frame. The seats are glued together using medium CA glue.

Last edited by frankg; Jul 07, 2010 at 08:49 PM.
Jul 06, 2010, 08:14 AM
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pjesus's Avatar
Another runabout build log to drool over...
Jul 07, 2010, 07:38 PM
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The deck battens can now be installed into their notches in the frame work for the forward deck. The battens will be installed with the resin coated side down. The center batten will run from frame #F2B forward to the stem post and shears joint. Glue in with medium CA glue.

The two side battens will run from frame #F2B and let into the shears. They will be glued in with medium CA glue.

Once the battens have been glued in, proceed to cut and glue 1/4 x 1/4 blocking to the front of the frames #F2B, #F2, and #F1 in between the deck battens to allow for additional gluing surface for the sub decking.

Use the drawing DWG #3 for reference for the correct deck framing of the hull.

Last edited by frankg; Jul 08, 2010 at 07:46 PM.
Jul 07, 2010, 08:05 PM
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[FONT="Arial"][SIZE="3"]Before continuing with the deck framing, now is a good time to mount the radio receiver on/off switch into the hull. We used double sided servo mounting tape to mount the switch upside down in the center and in back of frame #F7A. This will allow you easy access to turn on the radio system in the hull by just opening the engine hatch.
Last edited by frankg; Jul 08, 2010 at 07:53 PM.
Jul 07, 2010, 08:29 PM
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Also at this time you can modify you receiver antenna by measuring the length of the antenna wire and writing it down on a piece of tape on the receiver. Now take the antenna lead in the boat and leave a 5 length of wire after it comes thru the frame #F7 and cut it. Also on the receiver leave a 5 length of wire coming out of the receiver and cut it. Using a small male/female plug from DEANS connectors, solder the plugs in place on the antenna wires.

Using some adhesive backed Velcro cut a 2 long strip and stick the receiver up on the side of the hull under the shears, in back of frame #F7. The receiver battery box can also be mounted with adhesive backed Velcro on the bottom of the hull against the transom on the right side of the keel.

Last edited by frankg; Jul 08, 2010 at 08:03 PM.
Jul 07, 2010, 08:33 PM
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[size="3"]Before proceeding with the deck framing, and while everything is hook up to the radio equipment for the steering/horn servo hook up, take some CA glue and place a drop on the threaded rod behind the kwik kinks to hold their position on the tiller arm and the servo arm when you drop out the rudder before the deck framing continues.

Last edited by frankg; Jul 11, 2010 at 08:20 PM.
Jul 07, 2010, 10:59 PM
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ClassicBoats's Avatar
PM sent.
Jul 08, 2010, 08:25 PM
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The next deck framing with the 3/4 deck batten material will be the three battens running from frame #F7A to the transom. They will be glued in as be fore with medium CA glue. Three more battens will be glued in from frame #F5A to #F5.

The next two battens to be glued in will be the hatch frame stiffeners made from the 1/8 x 1/4 basswood batten material. They will run from frame #F5 to the front of frame #F. Glue into their notches in the frames next to the hatch frames, HF.

The last four pieces of 3/4" balsa batten material will be glued in back of frame #F7A between the basswood battens and the shears, and in front of frame #F7A between the basswood battens and the shears.

Last edited by frankg; Jul 11, 2010 at 08:21 PM.
Jul 09, 2010, 10:50 PM
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The engine hatch is the next part to be assembled using the parts from laser sheet S1. Remove hatch frame left (HFL), hatch frame center (HFC)(2 pcs), hatch frame right (HFR), hatch frame 5 (HF5), hatch frame 6 (HF6), and hatch frame 7A (HF7A). Assemble the outside frame work first using a square, on a flat waxed paper surface, with the parts HFL, HF5, HFR, and HF7A, using medium CA glue. Once assembled insert the hatch frame centers HFC (2 pcs), in their slots and glue with medium CA glue. Use drawing DWG#4 for reference.
Last edited by frankg; Jul 09, 2010 at 10:59 PM.

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