1952 Century Sea Maid '18' -1/6th scale - Page 8 - RC Groups
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Jun 29, 2010, 08:46 AM
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Westquay- Go to www.Towerhobbies.com and search for "foam safe ca". It's odorless and does not affect me. A small sniff of regular ca gives me flu-like symptoms.
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Jun 29, 2010, 04:48 PM
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Thanks 420TEE, I keep getting told about Tower hobbies! I take it they'll ship to Britain?
Jun 30, 2010, 08:06 AM
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Now the deck framing starts with the gluing in of the sub frames #F2B, #F5A, and #F7A in their laser marked slots in the shears. They can be glued in with medium CA glue from underneath the shears.
Jun 30, 2010, 08:49 AM
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From laser sheet S2 remove the hatch frames HF (2pcs) and install them in their slots between frames #F5, #F6, and #F7A. Glue in place with medium CA glue.

Frame #F6 can now be cut out flush with the insides of the hatch frames, HF.

Now take a I/8” x 1/4” basswood batten and measure and cut two pieces to fit in the notch next to the hatch frame HF, running from the front face of frame #F5 to the face of frame #F7. Glue in place with medium CA glue.
Last edited by frankg; Jun 30, 2010 at 08:05 PM.
Jun 30, 2010, 08:47 PM
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While continuing with the deck framing, you can also do the sub assembly of the dash board gage light box, which will be used to light up the instruments with the optional light package, #707L. The light box is made up of five parts from laser sheet S2. The parts are light box bottom LBB, light box ends (2)LBE, and light box sides (2)LBS. The box is assembled with medium CA glue and then coated inside and out with epoxy finishing resin.
Jul 02, 2010, 06:52 PM
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While the hull is still pretty wide open with no deck battens to get in the way, it is a good time to measure and fit the two inside side 1/8 x 3/8 balsa battens that go from frame #F1 to frame #F5 and are glued into their notches with medium CA glue.
Jul 02, 2010, 07:07 PM
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From laser sheet S2, remove the side shelf bottoms for both the left and right side of the hull. They are laser marked left front bottom (LFB), left rear bottom (LRB), right front bottom (RFB), and right rear bottom (RRB). They are glue glued between the frames #F2 and #F3, for the front bottoms sitting on the out side planking batten, and between frames #F3 and #F4 for the rear bottoms, again sitting on the out side planking batten. They all are glued in with medium CA glue.
Jul 02, 2010, 09:31 PM
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One the shelf bottoms are glued in position, mix a small batch of epoxy finishing resin and coat in the shelf bottoms and the inside of the sub planking between the frames. This well give you a smooth surface to sand and paint with primer.

Also at this time it would be a good idea to string the hidden antenna wire thru the holes in the frames, under the shears on the left side of the hull. The antenna wire will run thru the frames starting at frame #F7 and proceed thru all the frames and thru frame #F1, then across the top of the frame and back thru the hole on the opposite side were it is glued off. Take all the slack out of the wire back thru frame #F7, and leave the extra wire coiled up back by the transom for later use.
Last edited by frankg; Jul 03, 2010 at 02:05 PM.
Jul 03, 2010, 02:28 PM
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If the working light package, #707L, is to be installed in the model, now is the time we must run the wiring and make the wire harness for the different lights on the model.

First thing to do is drill an oversize hole in the top of the stem post and coming out the right side for the bow light wires. This hole can be quite large so that the wire can be pushed down thru it easily. When we start the deck sub planking we will make a much smaller hole for the wire to pass thru. Now taking the hook up wire in the light package run the wire thru the bottom right side hole in frame #F1, and then up and thru the hole drilled in the stem post. Take abut 4 of wire and coil or knot it so it does not slip back thru the stem post hole.
Last edited by frankg; Jul 03, 2010 at 07:51 PM.
Jul 03, 2010, 03:14 PM
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Run the wire coming from the bow light to frame #F2 and cut. Now cut another piece of wire 12 long from the hook up wire. Locate the dash board light #7064, and solder the two leads to the end of the 12 wire. Remember to cut and install the heat shrink tubing before you solder the wires.

Now string the wire thru the holes in the top center of frame #F2 leaving about 3 of wire with the light free. The other end of the 12 wire will run to the right side of the frame and thru the laser cut hole under the shear and then down to the bilge to join with the bow light wire, and the end of the hook up wire in parallel hook up. Again make sure that you remember to install the heat shrink tubing on the wires before soldering.

Jul 03, 2010, 03:24 PM
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You now have all the wires joined to one set of wires running back. Measure the wire back to frame #F4 and cut the wire. Now string the wire thru the right side hole thru frames #F2 and #F3. Locate the 2 red female mini plugs in the light package. They will be wired in parallel with the wire coming from the bow light along with the end of the hook up wire, which will be going aft to the stern light. Again, remember to always put on the heat shrink before soldering the wires together.

Jul 03, 2010, 08:14 PM
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Now with the remaining hook up wire run the wire across the bilge between frames #f3 and #F4 and up the side of the hull, in back of the side batten to the laser cut hole on the right side of frame #4, under the shear. The wires will run back thru the laser cut holes in frame #F5, #F6, and #F7. Coil up the remaining wire and leave up till latter.
Jul 03, 2010, 08:37 PM
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Before any deck battens or sub decking is installed on the hull, we must take care of some sub assemblies which have to be fit while the hull is still relatively open.

The first is the steering servo mounts set, which are supplied, being mounted to the servo for placement against the transom inside of the hull. Once the servo is mounted to the mounts, it is placed against the transom, on the left side of the keel, looking aft. Using a sharp pencil mark the mounting screw holes in the mount on the transom. Remove the servo and mount and drill the four pilot holes for the mounting screw.

Before mounting the servo on the transom, you must turn on your radio equipment to find neutral on the steering servo. Once you have the servo in neutral, turn off the radio and disconnect the servo from the receiver. You can now mount the servo to the transom.
Jul 03, 2010, 08:53 PM
Retired for now
It's a darned good motor too. I have six of them and four are well over ten years old and working just fine thank you. Pete
Jul 03, 2010, 08:58 PM
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The electronic horn assembly can be mounted using the attachment tape on the micro switch mount. The switch will be mounted to the right side of the keel look aft and positioned so that with the rudder deflected all the way for a right hand turn and the trim all the way to the right, the rudder tiller arm will hit the micro switch lever and blow the horn. With the trim on the radio back in neutral, you will have full right and left rudder movement with out the horn blowing. The electronics for the horn sound can be mounted on the transom with the attachment tape on the back of the unit.
Last edited by frankg; Aug 21, 2010 at 01:01 AM.

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