1952 Century Sea Maid '18' -1/6th scale - Page 7 - RC Groups
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Jun 23, 2010, 04:31 PM
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The first mahogany plank on the side planking will just over lap the bottom planking enough to be sanded smooth with the bottom planking at the chine. Starting at the transom and working forward to were the side plank will transition from over lapping the bottom planking to butting the cut bottom planking running into the stem post. As you plank the sides remember to alternate the lapping plank at the stem post. The first few planks will be long enough to run from the transom to the stem post in one piece. Remember to sand off the bottom edge of the butting edge of the plank for a good tight fit on the plank seam.
Last edited by frankg; Jun 23, 2010 at 10:09 PM.
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Jun 23, 2010, 10:15 PM
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As you progress up the side of the hull with the planking you will get to a point were the 36” long mahogany plank will not be long enough to run from the transom to the stem post in one piece. You will have to have an end butt joint of two planks to make the run. Usually the splice or butt joint is between 1/2 to 2/3 the length of the hull and no two adjoining planks will have their but joints together. One joint should be at the 1/2 length mark the next at the 2/3 length mark and the next could be in-between the 1/2 and 2/3 marks. Block sand the but joint for a good fit. When done correctly the joint will be almost invisible.
Last edited by frankg; Nov 12, 2010 at 11:41 PM.
Jun 25, 2010, 08:07 AM
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The planking of the side of the hull continues down to before the plank will cover the shear line at the stem post, about 6 planks on each side, then stop. We do not want to run the planking to the shears until the sub decking is on the hull, at which time the last few side mahogany planks will cover the edge of the sub decking at the shears.
Jun 25, 2010, 01:23 PM
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ClassicBoats's Avatar
Originally Posted by frankg
As you plank the sides remember to alternate the lapping plank at the stem post.
frankg: Why do you alternate? I've always just chose one side over the other, but I've always had a cutwater to cover them. Just curious?
Jun 25, 2010, 08:48 PM
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CLASSICBOATS- I do it so that the stem post does not walk to one side with the planking, but as you stated , with a cut water, it does not really matter. Now in boats that do not have a cut water , like the “California Cracker Box”, it makes for a nice looking stem post. I guess I am just a creature of habit. If you feel like it is not necessary, don’t do it, it is your model.
Jun 27, 2010, 01:34 PM
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Before we continue on with the deck framing and sub planking, we block sanded the bottom planking and the side planking were it overlaps the bottom planking and then butt planks as it goes to the stem post. If you have a electric palm sander it will help with the finial sanding with 220 grit paper. This will eliminate any chipping out of the mahogany side planking which was overhanging the bottom planking.
Jun 27, 2010, 02:00 PM
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Now using the 3/8” x 1”x 12” balsa blocking material measure and cut two pieces of blocking to fit between the transom and frame #F7 on each side of the keel. Glue in place with some 12 minute epoxy glue.
Jun 27, 2010, 02:18 PM
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At frame #F5 using a razor saw, cut out the frame down were laser marked down to the top of the keel. This will allow the propeller stuffing box to pass thru the frame.
Jun 27, 2010, 03:57 PM
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Locate the motor mount board (1/4”x 2”x 3 1/2” ply wood) and mark the center line of the board on the 2” width. This will be lined up with the centerline of the keel when glued into the boat between frames #F4 and #F5 on the angled cut keel with 12 minute epoxy glue.

Before gluing the motor mount board into the boat, seal it with a thinned coat of epoxy finishing resin on all sides and let dry.
Jun 28, 2010, 07:29 PM
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At this point in the build, you must decide wither or not you are going to make the model full house R/C or not. This means are you going to include the sound effects and lighting systems along with the power package for the model. If so then the optional sound, light and power packages should have been already purchased for the inclusion in the build. At this time the speaker and the wiring harness going back to the electronic module are to be installed in the face of frame #F1.

Take the wiring harness with the plug ends and pass it thru the speaker hole in frame #F1 going toward the stem post. Then pass the wiring harness thru the bottom left side hole in frame #F1going back toward the stern of the hull, passing the harness thru the left side frame holes in all the frames as you go back toward the stern. Once you pass thru Frame #F4, just coil up the wire and leave it in the bilge until latter in the build.

The speaker can be mounted with medium CA glue fitted into the hole in frame #F1. After tack gluing in place, you can go back and run a heavy bead of the CA glue around the speaker were it is fitted into its hole in the frame from the back.
Jun 28, 2010, 11:24 PM
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The running hardware can be installed into the hull at this time. Take the propeller assembly (7038, 0937/3, & 7232-1) and install on the propeller shaft. Then slide the propeller shaft thru the strut and then the propeller stuffing box. This whole assembly with be slid into the propeller shaft alley in the bottom of the hull so that the back of the strut base will be 1 3/4” from the front of the rudder stuffing box. Mark the location of the strut base with a pencil. If necessary to get the strut base to lay flat on the bottom of the hull, trim out the mahogany with in the marked area of the strut base.

Once the strut is aligned and flat to the bottom, tack glue the propeller stuffing box to the shaft alley with medium CA glue, making sure that the front of the stuffing box inside the hull is even with the cut out of the keel.

Remove the propeller shaft assembly form the stuffing box and the strut and set aside. Tape out with masking tape the stuffing box to the bottom of the hull. Tape your time and do a good job of taping so that when we fill the shaft alley from inside the hull with epoxy finishing resin, it will not leak out the bottom around the stuffing box. Note: This is a good time to plug the ends of the stuffing box with some soften candle wax so that no resin can enter the stuffing box.
With the hull sitting bow high, slowly pour a mixed batch of finishing resin in the shaft alley around the stuffing box. Fill the shaft alley completely with the resin. Let it set over night before handling .

Last edited by frankg; Jun 30, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Jun 28, 2010, 11:39 PM
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Next take the Model Marine Motor #5045 and mount one end of the #UD-2 universal on to the motor shaft. Now take the motor and universal and install into the hull on the motor mount plate, sliding the other end of the universal on to the propeller shaft. Now with the universal kept as straight as possible in line with the center line of the keel, mark the motor mounting holes with a pencil. Remove the motor and universal and drill pilot holes for the mounting screws. Note: the motor can be removed from it mount to install the motor mount, then reinstall the motor into the mount.
Jun 29, 2010, 06:23 AM
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Frank, may I ask why, when all the frame sections of the bottom are straight, you don't use a single sheet of, say, 1/16th" ply for the sub planking?
A la Aerokits, etc.?

I was also told by the WEST systems Epoxy rep that thinning epoxy weakened it substantially and might affect its curing abilities. Acetone and Xylene are also rather nasty substances.

And what adhesive would you recommend for those of us with a reaction to CAs?

Jun 29, 2010, 07:55 AM
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WESTQUAY- The reason we use the diagonal planking with balsa is that it allows the average modeler to be able to plank a hull with compound curves with relative ease. To plank a hull with sheets of balsa or plywood , you can not have double bending of the stock in two different directions. Also by planking with diagonal planking of balsa and then over planking parallel to the water line with the mahogany planking, gives unbelievable strength to the hull skin.

As for the thinning of the epoxy with Xylene to make a penetrating resin on the first coat of the of the epoxy, it seals all of the exposed wood surface as well as locking the stained color surfaces for the finish on the hull. All the build up coats of the epoxy we only use a cap full of Xylene to the mix to break the surface tension of the epoxy to release any trapped air bubbles for the finish. I have never used the WEST system of epoxy, I use only the Z-poxy by Pacer, and have never had a problem with this procedure.

As for not using CA glues in building of the model, you will have to use what works best for you. I do not have a problem with using CA glues, and like the fact that it provides for a quick build and fast tack and cure. This is something you have to take into account when looking for a different type of glue when you start doing the mahogany over planking.
Jun 29, 2010, 08:31 AM
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Thanks Frank. Maybe Z=poxy is differently constituted.
CAs and me never get on! The smell gets to me after a few minutes.

If you have only straight sections to a frame, the sheet ply would simply twist over them all. I noted your warnings about checking their straightness which suggested ply for speed AND strength. Compound curves like the sides are, as you say, where planking is needed and double diagonal is best, of course. I did my Rivas in exactly that way sides and bottoms because of the fairly extreme flair they used (hence a very "dry" boat)


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