1952 Century Sea Maid '18' -1/6th scale - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Jun 19, 2010, 01:41 AM
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The sub planking will continue toward the bow in the same manner as before, marking and cutting the planking for the butt joints at the center line of the keel. The bottom planking will start over lapping the side planking at the trun of the stem post.

As you work closer to the turn of the stem you will start angle sanding the butt joints for good fits, on the butt joint, as you get to the sharper entry of the bow.
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Jun 19, 2010, 01:53 AM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
This step by step photo tutorial is the best instruction manual I have ever seen.
Jun 19, 2010, 02:05 AM
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Thanks Tom for the kind words. We have been trying to come up with the best instructions we can with our kits so that anyone can complete the build with little or no trouble. We took the best from all the manufactured kits on the market, and then tweaked it a little, into something I like to think works.

Nothing gives a model kit a bad name better than lousy instructions.
Jun 19, 2010, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Kmot
This step by step photo tutorial is the best instruction manual I have ever seen.
Top Quality Instruction !! Best one!
Jun 19, 2010, 07:36 PM
Registered User
With all the bottom sub planking glued on, proceed to block sand the bottom planking true to the side planking starting from the transom and working forward. As you get to were the bottom planking starts over lapping the side planking, keep checking with a straight edge to keep the sanding true to the side planking of the hull. This will be come more obvious as you work toward the stem post.

Jun 19, 2010, 07:58 PM
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At this point in the build the hull can be cut lose from the building board using a hack saw blade to cut the frame feet and the stem post free from the board. The hull can then be righted for the build to continue. Note: The use of a card board box for a make shift stand will prove useful in the build.

All the frame feet and the stem post can be cut and sanded flush with the shears along with the side sub planking of the hull.
Last edited by frankg; Jun 19, 2010 at 08:28 PM.
Jun 19, 2010, 08:25 PM
Registered User
The two piece balsa transom is the next to install. Before installing we coated the back side of the two piece transom with thinned out epoxy finishing resin, and let it dry. Once dry we block sanded the surface making it ready for gluing to the transom frame work. The bottom half of the transom was the first to be installed using 12 minute epoxy glue. It was held in place until the glue set up using masking tape.

Once the glue has set up on the bottom half of the transom, the top half of the balsa transom can be glued in position with the 12 minute epoxy glue, again using masking tape to hold in position until the glue sets up.
Last edited by frankg; Sep 01, 2013 at 06:12 PM.
Jun 19, 2010, 08:47 PM
Registered User
All of the sub planking of the hull can now be block sanded true starting with the hull bottom and then the sides of the hull. It is best to use a 180 grit sand paper for this so you don’t sand unwanted hollows or gullies in the balsa sub planking.

You will get the feel of the curves of the hull sides and at the entry at the stem post on the bottom run of planks.
Jun 21, 2010, 08:05 AM
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The start of the mahogany over planking is done with the 1/16” x 1/2” x 36” mahogany veneer strips. Take on of the strip and let it extend off the transom 1/4” and place a pencil mark for reference. Now line up the edge of the strip with the center line of the bottom and with masking tape, tape it down to the bottom every three inches going forward. As you progress forward with the strip it will start to run off and cross over the center line of the boat at the turn of the stem post. Do not twist the plank to try and keep the edge on the center line, but rather, mark the back of the plank with a sharp pencil the edge of the sub planking as it runs off with the turn of the stem post. Also mark on the sub planking on the outside edge of the mahogany plank were it runs off the stem post and also down the side of the plank to the transom. Remove tapes holding the plank, turn the plank over and trim the plank with a sharp Xacto knife, following the pencil marked curve of the stem were the plank ran off at the bow.

Now with medium CA glue, starting at the transom with the plank on the 1/4” pencil mark start gluing the plank down keeping the inside edge on the center line of the hull. Work your way forward,, gluing a few inches at a time. The use of the CA kicker helps in setting the glue, when gluing the planking down, but use it sparingly. Once the plank is glued down. Block sand the end of the plank where it runs off the stem, flush with the opposite sides sub planking.

Jun 21, 2010, 08:31 AM
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Before laying down the next mahogany plank, block sand the back bottom edge of the butting edge of the side of the plank to achieve a perfect fit next to the plank already glued down. This will be done for all of the rest of the planking done on the entire model, and will give you an almost seamless look to the finished model.

Now take the strip and again place a pencil mark 1/4” in from the end of the plank were transom is. Again tape the plank down every 3”, with the plank butting against the first plank. As you work toward to turn of the stem you will notice the plank will want to lay down over the first plank and the center line of the hull, let it. You will in fact have the outside edge of the second plank over lapping the end grain of the first plank exactly. Again mark the back (or under side) of the plank with a sharp pencil were the out side of the first plank is. This will be your trim line, but when you cut it with a Xacto knife, cut to the out side of the line so you can block sand the end of the plank after it is glued down to the sub planking.

After the plank is glued down the cut outs for the shaft alley and the rudder stuffing boxes must be cut in.
Jun 21, 2010, 10:59 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Good to see more talented people designing and producing kits and short kits for model boats and planes that people want to build. I would like to see somebody develop a line of non-cartoonish, poseable. people figures. An open runabout zipping around with no one aboard just looks incomplete. Model plane builders and ARF model flyers also need pilot figures and busts. There ought to be sources in China, etc., able to turn out little people for our models that are inexpensive and realistic.
Jun 21, 2010, 12:56 PM
CG Bob's Avatar
Several years ago, at the Toldeo Weak Signal;s Show, I approached all of the bootrhs that had airplane pilot figures, asking them to produce boat figures. Every one of them said they didn't think there was a market for them. One of these manufacturers was across the aisle from the Horizon Hobbies display with the ProBoat Classic Runabout - which I pointed out.

It has been discussed before.
1941 Chris Craft Hydro
"Realistic" figures
1/8 - 1/9 size figures
Jun 21, 2010, 10:26 PM
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The following mahogany planks will be easier to fit since there will be no cut outs for the shaft alley and rudder stuffing box, just straight runs to the turn of the stem post. When you lay out the planking sequence, make it so that the planks on each side will alternate the over lapping of the opposite sides plank at the stem post. You can plank each side until you have a total of 4 planks glued down on each side.

Before continuing on with the planking you want to strike a pencil chine line running to the stem post on each side of the hull. This is done by taking one of the 1/8” X 1/4” basswood battens and tape it to the side of the hull with the top edge of the batten following the hard chine of the hull forward to the stem post. Mark the chine line with a sharp pencil line on top of the batten all the way to the point of the stem post on both sides of the hull. The next 5 mahogany planking strips on both sides of the hull will run over the marked chine line by at least 1 inch.
Jun 21, 2010, 10:40 PM
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We now continue with the mahogany planking for a total of 9 planks on each side of the hull, over lapping the penciled chine mark by at least 1 inch. We now re-tape the batten back in place on the side of the hull following the chine again all the way to the stem post. As before mark the chine line on top of the batten with a sharp pencil line. This will be your cut line to follow using a Dremel moto-tool with a circular cutting blade.
Jun 21, 2010, 11:00 PM
Registered User
Once the chines have been cut into the 9 planks already on the hull, planking can again resume as before, planking the entire bottom of the hull all the way out to the chines on the sides of the hull. Once all the planks are glued down, they can be trimmed back and block sanded smooth with the sides of the hull.

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