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This thread is privately moderated by jetset44, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Jun 18, 2009, 01:49 AM
Park Jet Guru
jetset44's Avatar

T-38 Talon Park Jet

This model uses the same construction methods and motor setups as the F/A-18 and F-15 park jets. Normally, models of the T-38 are challenging to build and fly, but not this one. It's quick and easy to build and handles beautifully in the air—smooth, stable and very graceful. And best of all it is a true parkflyer and flies well in small fields. It's one of my favorite and most-flown park jets.

This model can be easily converted into an F-5, and templates for the parts required are provided below. These include a new canopy (which is interchangeable with the T-38 canopy), wing root strakes, and wingtip missile rails. A few enterprising individuals have even converted this T-38 into an F-20 Tigershark--see the build thread below for more details.

Wing area: 218 sq in
Span: 28.2 in
Length: 45.4 in
Weight RTF: 16 to 20 oz
Wing loading: 11 oz/ft2
Motor: Littlescreamers Super Park Jet
Battery: 1500 to 2100 mAh 11.1V Lithium-polymer
Prop: APC 7x5E
Flight controls: Wing flaperons, full-flying horizontal stabilizer, rudder (optional)

Useful links:

Build Thread:

Flight video: This is one best park jet flight videos I've ever seen--from Steevie in Switzerland: And here's another good one from Steevie:

Kits available from: or

Construction article published in: Model Airplane News, September 2007
Last edited by jetset44; Mar 11, 2015 at 11:57 PM.
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Jul 09, 2014, 01:19 PM
Registered User
carr52's Avatar
My model is coming along nicely but I was wondering about flaps. Are they a must have? Its only one more servo so no big deal there. I bought four servos for this build.

Jul 09, 2014, 02:09 PM
Park Jet Guru
jetset44's Avatar
Flaps are not at all required, the model will fly fine without them. But it will fly noticeably better with them. I've stopped using them for takeoffs and landings since they really aren't necessary for that. But what I do use them for 100% of the time is elevator-to-flap mixing. Set a mix that drops about 15 deg of flaps with full up elevator and you'll notice the airplane turns much quicker, responds to pitch inputs faster, and lands slower. And no further pilot inputs are necessary (no flipping switches), it just works automatically. I do this now on all of my park jets, but the small-winged T-38 benefits from it more than most.
Jul 09, 2014, 02:17 PM
Registered User
carr52's Avatar
I'm not quite sure how to do this mixing but it looks like its time to learn. Thanks for the response. Its starting to look like a plane now and not just a bunch of parts. I think my next build will be the EDF Bandit. Thanks again.

Jan 15, 2018, 01:05 PM
Registered User
I see that you recommend APC 7x5E prop. But in the build thread and instructions other size is mentioned. Wondering what is the correct prop. Running the recommended Greyson motor. Thinking about using 2100mah but I also have some 2500mah packs I might use.
Jan 16, 2018, 11:47 PM
Park Jet Guru
jetset44's Avatar
The recommended Grayson motor works fantastic in this model, but use a 6x4 prop with that motor and 2100 mAh 3S pack. It's a great combo!
Jan 17, 2018, 11:16 AM
Registered User
Thanks! I too am enjoying the combo. Can’t beat the price and performance. I have used it on the F-22 and now the F-18. I have not flown the F-18 yet due to the deep freeze going on in Kansas City. But that gives me time to build the T-38!
I love your designs.
Jan 18, 2018, 12:26 AM
Park Jet Guru
jetset44's Avatar
Glad to hear it! You know, I grew up in Warrensburg, MO, not too far from Blue Springs!
Jan 18, 2018, 07:41 PM
Registered User
Wow! I grew up in Knob Noster and went to CMSU. Whereabouts are you now?
Jan 18, 2018, 08:08 PM
Registered User
Oh I see in your profile Seattle
Jan 18, 2018, 10:48 PM
Park Jet Guru
jetset44's Avatar
Yes, I was born and raised in Warrensburg, but moved to Seattle years ago when I got hired by Boeing. Been to Knob Noster many times (remember Bill Sharp's BBQ?), and also went to summer school at CMSU and got my pilot license there. Small world!
Jan 19, 2018, 12:58 AM
Registered User
Ah yes, Bill Sharps BBQ. I remember it well. I graduated CMSU with a BS in Electronics. Installed commercial electronic panels for a while. Fire alarms, nurse calls, paging systems.
Then I went to work for Harmon Industries as a Software Engineer for the railroad industry. We made train defect detection equipment that used pyrometers to scan train bearings and wheels for defects. They got bought by General Electric. Then my product got sold to Progress Rail, a division of Caterpillar. After 18 years of working on Hot bearing detectors I left Progress and went back to GE, which is now Alstom, a French company. I now work on the computer head end in the locomotive that is in charge of Positive Train Control, to prevent railroad accidents. Been at that job for a year.

My RC hobby is just for fun, but I have been building balsa forever. Your designs are my first attempt in the foam medium.

I would love to do my own designs someday. But I think I would want a laser CNC to cut parts, and at least a 36” printer.
Nov 03, 2018, 07:02 PM
Registered User
byrocat's Avatar
I'd picked up a gently-used T-38 plan earlier this year and got around to setting it up. Did come with everything but the motor, speed controller and receiver.

When I got everything set up, I found that I had massive elevator chatter, and believe that this is either due to the ESC being inches away as well as the wires from the battery, or I have a dud elevator servo.

I'm leaning towards the latter, and going on that basis.

Is there any discussion on how to pull the elevator servo and to install a new one?

Yes, another approach at the moment would be to use another ESC to drive the receiver and then check the servo that way.
Nov 06, 2018, 11:58 PM
Park Jet Guru
jetset44's Avatar
Certainly try another ESC first, but if you need to get the servo out don't fret it. It's super easy to cut hatches in the foam wherever needed to get access, and then glue them back in when done. Just cut the hatch outlines at an angle so the piece fits back in flush with the surface. Done well, you can't even seen the hatches when done.

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