I really don't know if it is original, but suspect not, but the spraybar fitted has two holes, i.e. one hole drilled straight through. I installed it with the holes at 3 and 9 o'clock.

Any ideas where I might find a single hole jet needle assembly? Would it be the same as the small PAW one I wonder?

Interesting post from clipclop about the dissolved butane, I did seem to have some bubbles in the line, but I had thought this was more about the set up with the oversize tank etc.
sparks

Originally Posted by Chas

Mark, have you ever actually done this?

Don't lose that propnut! The bugger is 3BA, and you won't find those in B&Q!

I bought 3 (in case of losses!) from an engineering suppliers (in England) - they are available.

Next time that i'm in Mussafah, the industrial area of Abu Dhabi, I'll have a look. 3BA nuts may be doubtful, but I have seen BA taps, so i'll buy one and if I lose the original, i'll make something myself.
Thanks for the heads-up Chas.
sparks

Originally Posted by Chas

Mark, have you ever actually done this?

Chas, to be honest, no, not with the JD product.
We used to get a similar product years ago (in SA) called Quickstart I think from memory. Used to tap the Ether out of them regularly.

I used a sharpened hardwood dowel to puncture the (inverted) can and the gas / propellant would fiz out with the dowel still in, then when it stopped would pull the dowel out, turn it over and the liquid which was mainly ether would pour/squirt out into the jar.

Yes you spilled a bit, and cutting the bottom out could work, but I think, again from memory, the dome shaped bottom of the cans we got would not have been cuttable with a normal tin opener and I was not going to risk dicking around either and possibly creating sparks or worse...

As someone mentioned though, if you could smell the ether then there was enough to run the engine, maybe not well, but it would run and whatever else was mixed in, if in a small enough amount is irrelavant. Again, the mixture is not critical to get it to run. Anything in an even vaguely equal amounts of Ether, oil & kero will work unless there is some mechanical problem with the engine.

It is only when you want the best performance out of them that the different fuel mixes and additives start making a difference.

Mark

I don't bother letting the propellant out of JD. Refrigerate the can and spray it into your mixing or measuring container. Your going to lose some anyway. At least spraying it doesn't commit you to using up the entire can of ether.

If you didn't read the link to RCU about starting sprays, JD is ether with a little oil in it after all the propellant is released. There is no need to compensate for anything, just measure the liquids as 100% ether.

Greg

Yep, if I wanted to maximise the atomised ether lost to atmosphere, that's how I'd do it.

you are such a card Chas

You know what? I just realized that I do it with a straw on the nozzle. I steal a nozzle from a can of spray lube that has a straw on it.

Greg

If you are going to try the above spraying route, get a “long” straw and a tall cylinder to contain the mix. Add the kerosene about one third of the volume, immerse the long straw to the bottom of the cylinder and try gently releasing the spray so it doesn’t bubble over. The “gaseous” or vapour portion will partially dissolve in the kerosene, minimizing the loss.

Hey guys,

I'm grinning like a Cheshire cat!

Found a little brass pot in a small 'knick knack shop, it seemed a lot easier than cutting up the small tin cans, and i couldn't find gluehands proverbial mustard pot, so the brass pot won out.
drilled two holes and soldered in a suction and vent pipe from the brass left over from the crappy clunk tank, then soldered around the middle of the pot and gave it a blow in some hot water...no bubbles so it was game on.

Mounted the PAW in my timber test bearers..on the model board..on the dining room table, filled the tank with some fresh mixed fuel and hooked up the line.

A couple of priming strokes to pull the fuel through then I started flicking.

The first six or seven were mostly just to get things whetted and bring on the compression, 1/8 or so at a time...then, nearly at the right point and a little kick, a tad more on the screw and next flick .... after around 36 years of dormancy in a cardboard box...

the little PAW was deafening everyone in the flat!

Whatta great little motor it was..and still is.

Thanks to all of you guys for your words of encouragement, tips, reminders and advice.

need to get something set up outdoors so that I can give it a good run now!



sparks

Originally Posted by sparks59

I'm grinning like a Cheshire cat!

Nice to hear the good news, Sparks..!...and you seem to have found a good source of pre-fabricated tanks too...(what is it..?)

Another good candidate is a small brass float from a moped- or motorcycle carb.
A float for an old 50cc moped engine (like the one below), contains about 20 cc of fuel, and for use on a real small diesel, it could be split into two halves (just melt the soldered joint at the middle), and a flat brass cover soldered to the open end.

Thinking about it, a split moped float with a flat backside would make a nice external "F/F" style tank, fitted on the fuselage side, well polished..

Footnote: My 1 cc M.E. Heron runs 6 minutes on 10cc fuel, with a master 7x4

Colemans Mustard tins are great! Well done Sparks

Cheers guys.
I spotted the 'tank' while looking for a little lidded tin box in the shop. It was part of a small mock camping dispay set, all in brass. Two burner stove, pan, lantern with a real wick and...to answer your question gluehand.. a mock propane/calor gas bottle (Hence the carrying ring around the top)

I might investigate the float... but suspect that most available here will be for modern Honda's and Suzuki's...and most probably all are plastic. They might have one for an Enfield Bullet though...

sparks

Originally Posted by Gluehand

Yes, why not give it a try....

One thing came to my mind, though:
I've heard rumours (of which's certainty I'm not sure...), that some PAW's have 'sub piston induction', i.e. when on TDC, the piston skirt opens a small slot to the atmosphere, seen through the exhaust port. If so, there's no chance to get stable throttling properties.
However, the old PAW that I mentioned above, did not feature SPI, as well as the more modern ones that I have now.....so this may be just a 'rumour'.

I thought I'd just mention this...it's easy to check.

I dug out a few of my New in Box PAW Diesels to check this rumour Gluehand. I have a 19-BR (single ball race) which has definitely got sub-piston induction of at least 50% of the exhaust port area (see photo of engine at TDC). This engine (luckily) came with the original purchase receipt (from H.J.Nicholls) dated Feb. 1968, so it probably left the factory in late 1967. An earlier (?) Combat Special Mk. 2 also has SPI, but only just - about 1/32 in. A later 19-DS (Diesel Standard ie. plain bearing) has absolutely zero SPI at TDC. Its purchase receipt (from Hobby Hideaway in the US) is dated 1977.

What a wonderful lump of metal is the PAW 19 Twin-stack. I had one bolted on the nose of a Mercury Monitor (I think) trying to pull it's front end away in 1974/5. Easy to start and an absolute brute of a thing after a couple of years with pee wee's tee dee's baby bee's wasps merlins and the smaller brother 1.49PAW!
sparks