Originally Posted by Car6on14

Hi, thanks for the reply but I think I described it incorrectly. The bottle opened fine with some gas release, it sat for about 20 sec while I went to get my pump and fuel line to fuel the airplane. The moment my clunk touched the fuel, after my bottle was open, is when the reaction occurred, and what I did not expect. I got some kero today, I will add it. I did not add it since I read I could treat the other half of the starting fluid as kero. It kind of made making 30 oz easy, as 2 cans is 20 oz, which I thought would be considered 10 oz of ether and 10 oz kero, and all I needed to do was add about 10 oz castor.? Kero is cheap here, $3.8 a gal. Ether I cannot get only starting fluid

well your life be misery if you use John Deer starting fluid as ether.the other 40% of the JD can has ingredients that will cause your diesel engines to be temperamental at best ,run hot and be down on power .

Originally Posted by Car6on14

Guys, I just made my 2nd batch of diesel this weekend. My first batch last year had some older Kero and while my engine ran it seemed low on power. This year I opted not to add kero, as my starting fluid is only %50 ether and from what I read the other %50 can be treated as kero. I chilled the starting fluid cans in my refrig this time too and it seemed to slow the flow out of the bottle which was nice. SO today I opened the bottle, dropped in my clunk and line; and Woosh, it all bubbled up very quickly and almost half shot out of my bottle, from 30 oz to 20 in no time Does the kero help stabilize the mix? Could there be propellant trapped in my liquid since I chilled it? It was at room temp when I opened it today. Any help / thoughts appreciated....

chill the can or not ,BUT you MUST get rid of all the propellant INSIDE THE CAN before putting a small hole in it to pour the contents out wear gloves and face mask .YOU were lucky today!

The other 50% in the can ,CAN NOT be treated as kero!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is the MSDS for an Australian made starting fluid containing 51~57 per cent Ether:

http://www.campbellswholesale.com.au...D319162125.pdf

Apart from propellant gases the balance is "Petroleum Ether".

Petroleum ether (or petroleum spirits) is a flammable liquid distillate of petroleum heavier than Naphtha, and lighter than Kerosene.

I suspect it may be similar to White Spirit, which I have successfully used as a fuel base in my model diesel fuel.

I will buy some of this product and try a fuel made from it, plus 10% by volume kerosene and 25% by volume Castor Oil. Could be interesting.

good luck ,your motor will be hard to tune,runs hotter than usual ,down on power and just quit for no reason ,ask me how i know this .Nah best lessons in life are the ones you learn yourself,the hard way.

Originally Posted by condo

chill the can or not ,BUT you MUST get rid of all the propellant INSIDE THE CAN before putting a small hole in it to pour the contents out wear gloves and face mask .YOU were lucky today!

The other 50% in the can ,CAN NOT be treated as kero!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Keep in mind the BOILING point of ether is 32 F Degrees ( 0 C degrees ) so yes you were very lucky there was not an accident - chill the ether well below freezing before thinking of puncturing the can, then chill it again.... outdoors only. or better yet, buy some model diesel fuel if possible.

Best regards,

Jeff

Originally Posted by JeffMac

Keep in mind the BOILING point of ether is 32 F Degrees ( 0 C degrees

Please check your references diethyl ether boils at 34.6°C

Greg

Hi
Do any of you UK guys know what happened to Model Engine Spares? I got some NVA's etc off them and want more but can't get an answer, or do you know of anyone else making NVA's, conrods, comp screws etc.
Thanks Barry

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diethyl_ether
As a fuel[edit]
Diethyl ether has a high cetane number of 85-96 and is used as a starting fluid, in combination with petroleum distillates for gasoline and diesel engines[8] because of its high volatility and low flash point. For the same reason it is also used as a component of the fuel mixture for carbureted compression ignition model engines. In this way diethyl ether is very similar to one of its precursors, ethanol.

34.6 C BP

Sorry for my mistake regarding the boiling point of ether..... I hope that did not cloud the purpose of my post of using extreme caution with pressurized cans of starting fluid.

jeff

Barry:

Try

hayley.kirby@ntlworld.com

I suggest putting 'NOT SPAM' in the title due to spam filters.

Originally Posted by Reginald

Finally decided to restore this little one I've had for a long time, I do not have that kit just the plane, when found it had a far too large Enya 1,5 on it, replaced it with this OK 074, will have to make a new engine cowl, but where were these made ? USA or Japan ?

It was fun doing this, kindergarten level of difficulty really... just that spinner is so thin and flimsy I wonder if these things really flew with them, and a Mustang without a spinner does not look right...

Originally Posted by Reginald

It was fun doing this, kindergarten level of difficulty really... just that spinner is so thin and flimsy I wonder if these things really flew with them, and a Mustang without a spinner does not look right...

Reggie,

Very nice work!

Johnny

This is my FROG 3.49 D Marine, appears to be D.C. produced. This one seems to be very well made and still has excellent fits. The brass cooling jacket and flywheel make this, to me, an attractive little engine. I do also have an air cooled 3.49 D.

Best Regards,

Jeff

They are a nice running diesel.
The AC version was in my first RC model, a Good Knight.
The marine version, I had one in a PT boat once. Plastic props often broke when setting the running diesel in the water. I gave mine away to a friend many years ago. It might show up one day on EB***. I had my name engraved on the bottom.

John thanks for the comments ! I need to run a few diesels this summer, one on that " list " is the FROG 3.49 D air cooled.....

best regards,

jeff