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Jul 11, 2009, 03:24 PM
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Gluehand's Avatar
Originally Posted by Snorks
If i were you I'd just make a small aluminium rectangle with two holes drilled in it to match the holes in the lug.
Yep...that's a practical method, but as you all know, sometimes you just wish to "get things right", in an obstinate way... we'll see which solution that shows up first....
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Jul 11, 2009, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Snorks
Glue hand- If i were you I'd just make a small aluminium rectangle with two holes drilled in it to match the holes in the lug. Just bolt the plate over the top of the lug when you instal the motor. I have used this repair successfully in the past.
That's a good idea also if you wish to mount an engine and not have the washers on the screws marking the beam mount.
Jul 12, 2009, 08:57 PM
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JMP_blackfoot's Avatar
Originally Posted by JackHiner
I did not know about the Battleaxe reproduction. How about a photo?
Here are pictures of my Dunham Oliver Battleaxe, with as scan of the instructions that came with it.
It has number 51, I don't know whether of the total production or of the 1980's second production run.
As the instructions show, it is a low rpm, low power engine and I would have expected it to like bigger props. It weighs 226 gram (just under 8 oz). For reference, height from bottom of crankcase to top of aluminium finned head is 97 mm.
On the plus side, it is fitted with a cut-out which does work as a (rudimentary) throttle, and it is made well enough that one can expect a very long life.
I still wonder what kind of model is suitable for this engine. Anyone have experience with the Battleaxe?
Last edited by JMP_blackfoot; Jul 12, 2009 at 09:54 PM. Reason: Replaced pictures with decent ones
Jul 12, 2009, 11:50 PM
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JackHiner's Avatar
JMP blackfoot, Thanks for the photo. I wondered what this Oliver designed engine looked like. I just check the log book for the best rpm I got with a Graupner Cam carbon fiber non folding 12.5/6 prop with my best Oliver Jaguar 2.5 cc reproduction by Rustler Engines. One that I had hard chromed turns 5,400 rpm on a good day. Another turns about 5,000 rpm. My Dunham 5 cc Valkyrie does not turn up as well as My GB and the Drone BB with a variable compresson head is by far the best. It was in bad shape when I got it and had a hard chrome job done plus a new ball bearing. Jack
Jul 13, 2009, 09:25 AM
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portablevcb's Avatar
Just noticed this thread as I normally look in the electric and 1/2A area.

I'd like to see more engines in airplanes. Hiner's Playboy looks good.

I was bit by the diesel bug last year and have got around to building a plane made for one this year. Also got to fly Steve Staples Taube (45") with a .06 PAW.

I've got .06 and .09 PAW's. The .06 is going in Adrian Britton designed PA-12 and the .09 in a Chris Sweeney sport design.

Jul 13, 2009, 02:02 PM
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At the risk of turning this into a trade thread.... ( If deemed inapropriate pm me & I'll delete it)

I have an early 50's ED Bee MK1 series II in excellent cond but with the LH Lug completely broken off (still have the lug).
I also have a Allbon spitfire Mk 1 series 1 in new/unrun(?) condition which is missing the conrod & has a bent crank pin (where the big eng slides over)

I will be willing to swap either engine for the parts to repair the remaining engine I don't care which.

Will also swap a complete 1.5cc russian MAC drum valve diesel for a genuine ED Super Fury MK II conrod.
Jul 14, 2009, 01:24 AM
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JMP_blackfoot's Avatar
Beyond the Dunham Oliver Battleaxe, here are two more 2cc diesel engines from my collection.
First picture shows Oliver Battleaxe with CS Deezil repro and Modela (MVVS) Junior.
The Deezil is another long stroke engine with a large bottom, while the Junior with its silencer is a very cute little one.
Interestingly, recommended props for the Battleaxe are 8x6 to 10x4, and for the Deezil, Eric Clutton recommends 9x5 to 11x4...
Modela recommends 180x100 to 220x100 (7x4 to 8.5x4) for the Junior.
Jul 14, 2009, 03:14 AM
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I had one of the Dunham Oliver Battleaxes and whilst OK wasn't particularly good and in fact was less "friendly" than my Comp' Special. Alternatively the Burford Deezil was superb and gave much pleasure and was certainly as easy to start and run as Gordon had suggested.

My very early ED Bee was a gift from a close friend and was then, during the '90's, completely refurbished by Mike Crisp. I have to say that this came back in brilliant condition and although run a number of times still has yet to be bedded in fully. I suppose I should say that it is more just something of a sentimental ownership to the time when a Bee was my first engine.
Jul 14, 2009, 04:22 AM
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JMP_blackfoot's Avatar
Originally Posted by David Hipperson
I had one of the Dunham Oliver Battleaxes and whilst OK wasn't particularly good and in fact was less "friendly" than my Comp' Special. Alternatively the Burford Deezil was superb and gave much pleasure and was certainly as easy to start and run as Gordon had suggested.
I have run the Battleaxe and was not impressed by it either. This is why I am hesitant to put it in a model. Or maybe just as a conversation piece more than anything else.
On the other hand, while I haven't run the Deezil yet (should do soon), I look forward to flying it, so good it feels just handling it.
Jul 17, 2009, 02:46 AM
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JMP_blackfoot's Avatar
Pictures of my 1948 Micron 2,8 cc. It actually was modified to 2,5cc when this became the international standard (1951?). This particular engine belonged to Michel Vicré, who was my instructor when I joined the local model club in 1956. Power was given as 0.09 HP @ 4,800 rpm. Recommended fuel was 20% mineral oil + 5% automotive oil + 75% Ether

The other engine is a 2,5cc Taifun Zyklon, a dedicated R/C engine (R/C carb is part of the crankcase casting) which I fitted with an exhaust collector. It is a very nice engine, easy to operate and quiet. I like to use this engine with an 11x4 wood prop at around 6000 rpm in vintage models. It then closely approximates the performance of the original. I now regret selling the second one I had.
Jul 17, 2009, 07:00 AM
F1B is ok.
A few pictures of "Zyklon". Typical was the little black spring on the top.

Jul 17, 2009, 07:18 AM
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Warren B's Avatar
Speaking of little black springs - my latest aquisition has one too.
A very nice 1972 Taipan Series 13 TBR.
Runs very strongly indeed.
Starts in a couple of flicks after a choke or two and really spins up fast.
Not sure what I'll use it in yet, but amongst my collection of mainly old English diesels, I thought it was high time I added the classic Aussie.
Jul 17, 2009, 07:46 PM
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Wow, off [to work and no play] for the week and when I get back, look at all the wonderful diesels. I guess you lucky gentlemen could say ‘eat your heart out’!

Olmond, yes the broken rod was from a Mills, now long gone. Present ETA broken parts are around some where.

Snorks, you had the ETA correct, but not the .29 (glow). What serial number is your ETA 15D?

Warren, it didn’t take you long to ID the ETA 15D. I really like the Taipan 13 TBR. The cylinder/fins look a little like the Oliver. How does it compare in power/

Gluehand, you’re right, engines should be used, but then I’m always afraid if I break it, I can’t fix it or get parts. I guess at this stage of life, the engines will still outlast me.

JMP, you must have your own museum! Nice collection. Only 3000 to 5000 rpm on a 9x4 2cc Battleaxe. Maybe it would swing a bigger prop at the same speed, though that wasn’t listed. Did they list bore to stroke specs? Looks like it might have a really long stroke. The CS Deezil look good, but I’d go for the MVVS 2cc. I’ve got the glow version, and does it ever haul. At times it thinks a small header pipe is a tuned pipe when it jumps up in rpm. The Micron and Taifun Zyklon look like they’re ready to go, but I’d have to pick the RC version.

Hastf1b, nice pictures of your Zyklon.

Maybe at some point further on when the ideas and pictures run out, we could all list the various diesel fuel mixes that we had, have now and perhaps what the future may have?

The only way I can buy ethyl ether in Canada is by using the canned diesel starting fluid. Speaking of ethyl ether, if anyone has an old metal can containing ethyl ether, be very careful when unscrewing the lid. If peroxides have formed in and around the screw threads, friction may detonate the material, and it may go BOOM.
Jul 18, 2009, 03:36 AM
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JMP_blackfoot's Avatar
Originally Posted by JohnAV8R
JMP, you must have your own museum! Nice collection. Only 3000 to 5000 rpm on a 9x4 2cc Battleaxe.
I checked the instructions again, it appears that the quoted rpm is for running-in purposes. No actual normal rpm is given.

A museum? Not really, but I do have about 85 diesel engines.

More of the French ones:
Micron Super-Sport 2,5cc. (red head), also came with plain aluminium head.
This one is new, never run.
It was a classic engine in France in the 60's and 70's, it also came in a double ball-bearing version (usually blue-headed) which on occasion could compete with the OliverTigers.
Note that this engine, like the Taifun Zyklon also uses a little spring as one-way brake for the compression adjusting screw

Next is the lesser known and older Micron-Météore 2,5cc (dark green head), which is a very friendly engine to use. This one is well-used, but in perfect mechanical condition. It is only missing the lower lug for radial mounting which was filed off by the first owner
Last edited by JMP_blackfoot; Jul 18, 2009 at 03:50 AM.
Jul 18, 2009, 06:19 AM
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rapmoz's Avatar
Hello, just found this superb diesel thread.

Here are 2 Taïfun water cooled sets:

the first is the Taïfun Marine from mid 50's with a Rasant I engine and a manual clutch inspired by the tethered hydroplanes of this era.

The second dated from 1959 is the Taïfun Delphin, and its Taïfun Tornado maybe the first model engine sold ith a recoil starter.
Note the unusual Archimede screw propeller.

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