My M5 Komrade has been busy making these carbon fibre tail savers.



He has run the proto version all last year and it stands up well to abuse and saves the notoriously weak rear mudguard. As a bonus, it makes launching the bike by hand much more positive.

They'll be up on eBay soon but if anyone is interested in the meantime then PM me.

Cost will be roughly £18. (ex p+p)

It was my first run out of the year (long overdue) on the MkII Thed track. We had a fair few 1/8 buggies tearing up the surface the previous week so it was quite rutted pretty much everywhere. Whitham69 had tried a lead tape trick from golf clubs a while ago so I gave it the full double sided treatment on the front wheel and see how she went.

FanBloodyTastic! The front wheel staid sure and true through the rough stuff and was just SO much better than I've ever had (standard steering spring length/tension) The front wheel shook lock to lock (just like an '87 KX 500!) but it remained so very easy to keep things going. I nailed a lap straight from the off after a 6 month lay off. It stayed straight and true and went where I wanted over rough bumps. I can't quite get my head round how things went! It cost me £4 from eBay for the tape. Definitely recommended giving this trick a try!

Also thanks to ThrottleJunkie for the link to the 40A esc on the MM thread. The e-gyro never missed a beat!

Happy bunny!

Originally Posted by Gspeed

Unfortunately 35wt oil will be no use at all in the rear shock, best option seems to be 3000 diff oil which works well.

Is that diff oil thinner, or thicker than the shock oil?

Any more opinions on which oil to use? Preferably one sort that suits both ends, if possible.

I tried 10w in the front and 70w in the rear revo shock at sweetnap. Works lovely at the front but the track still induced cartwheels which was difficult to dial out except backing off the throttle a bit or find the elusive sweet spot line.

Post Sweetnap damage report:

S.I.D. the rider is looking a bit broken, with collarbone injury and upper thigh splitting. His head is hanging on, just. Chassis posts took a bit of a battering and need straightening. The gyro seems to have developed a bit of side to side slop internally but it kept going. Need to fix this. Beyond that I had no problems mechanically with it. It's still proving to be one tough little bike.

Sweetnap itself had some vicious bumps in it and somehow the M5 seemed to get through it. I'm still amazed at how well you can hustle these things around when you work at it. It might not be MM fast, nor as capable over 1/5 scale SC created bumps as a bigger 1/4 ARx, but this bike still has me smiling!

Hi guys, I need a new rear tyre for my M5 and wondered if these would fit?

Proline Badlands XTR 1/8th Off Road Buggy Tyres
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2615904963...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Yes, you can use them over the top of an old worn out mx pattern tyre.

Use shoo goo to stick them together. In theory this should break down in acetone thus maybe enabling further recycling of the Anderson carcass. I've used Loctite 480 to great effect but it is a one shot deal. It's stuck on for good!

Just be aware that capping the tyre with a Proline Badlands XTR will lead to it being more akin to fitting a 1:1 example, tyre levers are definitely needed! There is a way of doing it very easily by hand but I've only ever managed *(more like fluked) it once!

I've found they are very grippy (too grippy for me!) for most grass types, will chew the outer knobbles way quicker than the centre ones and one side of the tyre will need a trim just to help with chain clearance. Not bad but not perfect on wet astro but better than an Anderson mx pattern.

Cool, thanks for the tips.

Any other tyre options that I should consider?

Did a little bit of testing of a JConcepts 1/10 SC Subculture when I had this bike. Small pin was used for the slick hardpack dirt track. Adds a bit more weight having the double rubber tires which is not good for rear shock with the heavy flywheel. Sc (short course) tires are square shaped so maybe not the best either. Just some pics for inspiration I grabbed from an old thread I had them in...

I suppose it all depends on where you are running the bike and what tread suits best. Beyond having a PBX, an Anderson newish mx and a bald version of it (my fave on dry astro) I can't personally recommend anything else as I've not tried them. I didn't keep the Anderson chocolate block tyres long enough to really assess them back to back on my bike.

However, if you're prepared to do a bit of tinkering, then you could try 1/5 car tyres as a possible option. Look at this blog and scroll down a bit. Written with regards a VMX/MM, it's still transferable in application to help broaden rear tyre choice. The front tyre just refuses to wear out but grips everywhere...

Edit: Oooh, forgot about that tyre JMc, I might have to try one of them.

I think that M5 is out font of the new Dirtbikes with E-gyro

I was thinking when Andersonmodels will build or simply update their bikes ..

The phantom 400 need a better engine , power is not impressive front of the SR4 and MX400 .

Originally Posted by Helicoy

The phantom 400 need a better engine , power is not impressive front of the SR4 and MX400 .

The Turnigy 4000 pack for the QRF from HK gives more power than the std battery and much longer run time.

Hello guys! Back with the M5 today!
I have changed the rear shock to a Revo which I filled (if memory serves me right!) with some heavy oil (2000 or 3000 Xray's finest!) and a hard(ish) spring.
However, I found that the lower ball mount of the shock as a significant play.
I changed it to the Anderson's original lower ball, which has a smaller play, but still the play is there, when moving the whole swingarm.
Any ideas to fix this?

The revo shock should come with a ball attachment which decreases slop, at least the gtr shocks I bought do...

It's about time you chopped in one of your toys and bought a lathe!

It did have a ball socket at the bottom but it had more play than the original's.
I also tried and fitted another ball into the bottom, but it seems they all have a bigger internal diameter than the M3 bolt that goes on the swingarm...
I m trying to find some sort of axle, now, that is bigger than 3mm diameter, and then secure it with a grub screw, like it does with the FM1e...
Searching the parts bins...