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Jun 09, 2012, 12:47 AM
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What about a piece of inner bycicle tube over the rear damper to protect against mud?
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Jun 09, 2012, 03:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnilre
What about a piece of inner bycicle tube over the rear damper to protect against mud?
I'll be doing as you suggest when I'm happy with the handling, it's almost there but I'll be taking it on the track I hope to be racing at tommorrow to do some testing
Jun 09, 2012, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonzodog690
I'll be doing as you suggest when I'm happy with the handling, it's almost there but I'll be taking it on the track I hope to be racing at tommorrow to do some testing
good luck let us no how it goes m8
Jun 11, 2012, 08:25 AM
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Kev71H's Avatar
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Jun 13, 2012, 10:12 AM
Vzzznnnn...
vegos's Avatar
Upgrades are continued :-)

I replace the steering link with the optional oil damper set:


And new motor!
4300kV (9T) EZRun


(on the stock pinion/spur gears and on the same ESC, Etronix 60A)

So, I'm waiting for the weather to change (36-37C today) and go out for test run
Jun 16, 2012, 07:27 AM
Vzzznnnn...
vegos's Avatar
Update:

After installing the 4300kV (versus the 3930kV in my previous setup) and replaced the Steering Linkage with the (optional) Oil Damper Set, I have *too* much front wheel shaking in high speeds.
I had 20wt oil in the damper, so I replace with 35wt and will see if the shake will be reduced. If not, I'll add another one damper, without springs, just to use as a stabilizer.
Any other ideas?

After my last crash (and most probably overtightened screws) I broke the front hub carrier and as I disassemble the bike for service/tuning/cleaning/etc, I tried to straighten the rear frame with no luck. It brokes (I also totally broke my 2nd radio, the one I use for my nitro bike -- I pretty sure that I'm the biggest disaster ever made lol).
So, I'm in the waiting-for-parts mood....

My current status:



(The rider is resting... Had so many crashes hehe)
Jun 16, 2012, 07:34 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
steliosh's Avatar
poor guy... poor bike!!!!
you know... in the end... when you make a bike faster, you crash faster and MORE!
And... the damages are more... ummm... expensive!
All in the sake of speed...

(ask me how I know!!!)
Jun 16, 2012, 07:37 AM
Vzzznnnn...
vegos's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by steliosh
poor guy... poor bike!!!!
you know... in the end... when you make a bike faster, you crash faster and MORE!
And... the damages are more... ummm... expensive!
All in the sake of speed...

(ask me how I know!!!)
Hehe, I know, I know....
The only reason that I put a bigger motor is for more wheelies.
Anyway, right now I'm servicing the nitro bike. I think it's time for a ride!

(The funny thing is that I have to service my real bike, but I don't have time due to R/C service lol)
Jun 16, 2012, 08:07 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by vegos
Update:


Vegos, I got a comment.

I canīt believe itīs cold in Greece on June and you know that metals tend to soften with heat, so...

Put the bike away from the radiator or more bent chassis parts are expected!!!!

Jun 16, 2012, 11:44 AM
www.steliosh.net/rcmoto/
steliosh's Avatar
Good one Cesar!!! Actually it is 32C today, here! (I live about 20-25km away from vegos!)
Jun 21, 2012, 08:57 AM
Vzzznnnn...
vegos's Avatar


Just installed a Core RC Steering Damper (Stabilizer) (Part No CR136).
I hope that will reduce the headshake :-)
Jun 28, 2012, 12:47 PM
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vegos's Avatar
Today, as I receive the replacement parts for the damaged ones, I went out for driving the M5.
I have installed a Core RC Steering Damper (stabilizer) and the optional Oil Steering Damper Set (that replaced the steering linkage with the springs).

Finally, the bike with the 4300kV motor is not headshaking anymore (but it's a bit slower in turns).

I need some fine-tuning, as I realized that the rear shock is too soft for my driving style. What oil do you use? I use 35wt (with the stock shock absorber and spring).
Jun 28, 2012, 02:01 PM
RC Dirt Bike Action
JohnnyMc's Avatar
You have 2 options for steering I think:
1) Add thicker wt oil to damper thats on the servo for tighter steering. Or,
2) Put the original spring steering rod back so you can have full adjustment of springs.
Having 2 dampers doesnt seem necessary. Now that you have a good damper on left side, maybe having the original sterring that can be adjusted will work fine.

I replaced my rear shock with a revo shock, but for stock I think I was up to 1000cst or more. My AE 80wt shock oil is 1000cst, and above that Im into diff oils 2000, 3000, etc. I think I was trying 2000 diff.
Jun 29, 2012, 03:36 AM
Vzzznnnn...
vegos's Avatar
Thanks.
I will try today heavier oil and maybe a hard spring.
Jun 29, 2012, 03:39 PM
Vzzznnnn...
vegos's Avatar
I replaced the rear oil with 80wt and the spring with the hard one (green).
I went to the local "dirt" track, had some jumps and the bike seemed smoother.

BUT, after some jumps....



The piston unscrewed and the spring went away with the spacer. Luckily, after 10 minutes of searching, a young boy found it (I think I need eye-glasses lol).
I end up as I had no tools with me, come back home and put a lot of loctite. (The bike has to be sponsored by loctite. I don't know how much I have use for every screw! hehe).

I also put a Ptoline Racing Bow-Tie Step-Up XTR Dirt Race Tire (1/8 - #9024-00) on top of the very used (almost slick) stock tire.



I think it's perfect and has 1mm space between the tire and the chain! The traction with that tire is better than the Anderson's Chocolate Tire (but not as good as the stock one). BUT is cheaper! (13€ for 2 tires).

As I was cleaning/fixing the bike, I replaced the oil steering damper with the stock one to check it tomorrow...

PS I also remove the rear dark metal fender, and with the missing/broken lexan fender it looks ugly, but who cares? Now it's time to learn how to hold the bike to wheelie, without going down I think it's more difficult that the on a real bike...
Last edited by vegos; Jun 29, 2012 at 07:09 PM.


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