Originally Posted by yanrc

The servo gear survived, the rubber bands act like a damper, soften the crash impact...

Just how hard are you landing?

Hi Pat,

Excellent thread! I just completed my first profile parkjet (a 6mmFlyRC MiG-29) that I figured I'd build and fly before I completed my full bodied Steve Shumate F-18.

I was just wondering about your thoughts on leading/trailing edge sanding and shaping. I noticed in quite a few videos that some people don't round the edges at all and the model seems to perform quite well. However being an older fart I've always rounded leading edges and tapered trailing edges (I got lazy on the MiG and didn't taper the wing trailing edges) and wondered if anyone has compared between the two?

I've also glassed my wing with 3/4 oz. fiber glass and water based minwax and it seems to have stiffened up the wing quite a bit as well as glassing the belly with 3/4 oz. cloth and epoxy for some abrasion resistance. She came in at 17oz, ready to fly (still have a few more more markings to add).

Thanks again for a very informative thread!

Robin

Robin,

Edge rounding is not required, they fly quite well as is. It is more of a personal desire thing than anything else.

PS - Good looking Mig you got there!

Pat

Thanks Pat, all you guy's on these parkjet threads were the inspiration! Now I need to order another to have a 'beater' MiG to play with!

Do yourself a favor and get the F-22. By far my all-time favorite of the pushers, and I still have one of my mini's that I used to sell when I ran Nico Hobbies.

Pat

Originally Posted by crxmanpat

Do yourself a favor and get the F-22. By far my all-time favorite of the pushers, and I still have one of my mini's that I used to sell when I ran Nico Hobbies.

Pat

That was my first profile pusher and I agree. For the simplesty of the build and the fun factor it is one of my best plane to fly.

Thanks for the recommendation guys, I may just have to order one (or cut one)! I just purchased a bunch of depron, two 2212-6 motors, a pair of 30 Amp ESC's, and an armload of plans from a gentleman in Reno so I have the materials on hand. Once I get a little stick time with the MiG I'd also like to give a full bodied version a shot.

PS - I did a CS (paint scheme) for the Yardbird F-22 on RealFlight (along with 9 for the MiG-29) so the F-22 would be a logical choice.

Originally Posted by crxmanpat

There are some people who seem to have trouble finding the right paints for foam. In the years I've been doing this, I've u......

....USAF block type font.

Here's a decal application instruction guide that I have on my website:

http://www.nicohobbies.com/store/fre...structions.pdf

Pat

Sorry for bothering you, but the link quoted above won't work: It says it is no PDF document.

Thanks anyway for your good instructions, mate!

Regards,
Georg

Georg,

I closed down Nico Hobbies 3 years ago, so the site is no longer up. I have attached the guide here.

Pat

Originally Posted by crxmanpat

OK, mounting the motor has probably been one of the most challenging items that I've encountered on these builds, but I think I have it down to a science now. If you are cutting your own plane from scratch, DO NOT cut out any of the slots for the motor mount (just cut out the prop canyon). Instead, leave that foam in place until you get all parts cut out and can do some measurements.

My motor mounts consist of:

- 1/8" lite ply motor mount with 6mm notches cut in at each polar location (see pic)
- 6mm depron disc cut to match the ply mount

Step one is to measure the dimensions of the notches in your mount so you will know how wide to cut the slots in your foam. Next you will need to take your motor and attach the cross mount and prop adapter/prop to it. Then take the depron disc, ply mount and assembled motor and determine the cut distance needed so that the prop hub winds up in the middle of the prop canyon when looking from front to back. Once you have all your measurements, cut the necessary foam from the parts.

After the plane is fully assembled, check to see that the area where the depron disc will glue to is completely straight and level. These jets do not require you to add any thrust angles on the motor due to the fact they are in a pusher configuration aft of the CG. Next, glue the ply mount to the depron disc with hot glue. After the glue sets, place the motor cross mount on the ply and mark the screw holes, then tap the holes. Then mount the motor.

Normally you can glue the mount in with the motor already attached, and the prop installed. If you can do this, then that is the preferred method. If not, you will need to mount the motor without the prop attached. Use hot glue to secure the motor mount to the plane, making sure you "build up" some glue at all the joints.

The biggest problem with the motor mounts is that they tend to break loose after a while due to prop strikes on the ground. It helps to inspect the mount on a regular basis. Hot glue stays slightly flexible, and is not as susceptible to vibration as epoxy is.

Pat

I add an addition piece of lite plywood attached90 degrees to the mount about 6-8" long and adjacent to the mount. I then run that up the center of the cross point of the fuselage and the wing junction. It becomes part of the fuselage and wing. I have also added a flat piece about 2x3" below the wing connected to the 'firewall'. Now the connection is tied to the wing in a large area and also supported inline with the fuselage.

anyones got links to where i can get plans for really large scale depron edf jets? 80/90mm

Hi, did you had a look on Jetworks web site ?