*** ASSASSIN vs WIDOWMAKER - Toughest plane on the planet!*** - Page 12 - RC Groups
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Jul 17, 2009, 06:46 PM
Lee's Avatar
The shock absorber actually came from Patrick S. who used it several years ago on one of my Roswell designs. We forgot about if for a while then brought it back to reinforce the Peregrine tail. We were looking for a way to reinforce the motor area of the Assassin and so far we have not had any failures that we know of. It is simple, inexpensive, light and easy. Something that goes along with the ideas we are trying to post here.

Take a look at the second and third row of pictures of post #8. It shows you how to do it.

I keep updating the early posts in this thread as new ideas come along. I try to keep the first 20 posts current. Don't be surprised if we add new ideas and make old ideas better.

This plane has the shock absorber built in.

Assassin #9 (2 min 42 sec)
Last edited by Lee; Jul 18, 2009 at 09:29 AM.
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Jul 18, 2009, 11:58 AM
Registered User

Shock chord

Originally Posted by chewytm

Pardon me, but I must have missed it. These late nite readings, you know, and nodding off in front of the pc. But, what is a shock cord? Could you please give a link to the description/pictures?

Chewytm, Did you get the explnation? This is post #167 or something on page #1 out of 12, yes the page numbers are oposit of normal. On the upper right of this page is the page number we are on and this space is indicated as to the thread number. Go to page number twelve, the first page, and scroll down. The page has the entire Assassin build, pictures of completed planes and subjects like the "string theory".
Good luck, Chico John
Jul 19, 2009, 10:20 AM
Registered User
Got it. Thanks

Jul 20, 2009, 12:07 AM
Lee's Avatar
Another PM topic I have seen several times on the complications of setting up the DX6i radio.

I just found this post tonight, maybe this explains my flight today with my new DX6i, I had a very fast roll rate to the left and a much slower one to the right.

I used your quik set up planfor the DX6i that you posted in the Assassin build.

hmmmmmmm I'm at work right now I need to go home and check this out!

I was using low rates would this still have made a difference?

"Did you know that when a "travel adjustment" is made on the DX6i Spektrum radio that you have to separately adjust the right and left sides. I thought that the single adjustment would adjust both and it doesn't.

Also if you are flying a plane with elevons and want to adjust the travel to 125% you need to make the same adjustment for up and down elevator and right and left aileron" from your "what I learned today thread"

This is correct. In post #9 at the first of the "Assassin Thread" I made several entries about this problem. It took several days for me to figure it out too.

Look at the bottom here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...77&postcount=9

If you don't mind I am going to add this to the Assassin thread again to remind people.



Have to post a great video of one of the other planes we designed and kit called the (EPP) Snowball. Flown and shot by Dave it is a totally different plane but tons of fun.

Thanks Dave


Snowball thread, If you are like me and like videos we have a good group for the Snowball. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=930241

Snowball's Chance in Heck! (4 min 29 sec)
Last edited by Lee; Jul 20, 2009 at 09:59 AM.
Jul 23, 2009, 04:52 AM
Registered User
ATONAL6173's Avatar

Here I go again...

Thanks to you too Lee. Just thought I'd let you know I decided to take a shot at the Assassin too. It's cut, glued, taped, and awaiting electronics in my shop. Wish me luck!

I'm so glad that you and others share so openly all your hard-won knowledge, as I am now able to get over my fears of cutting airfoils and the mystical geometry involved. Can't afford to support your Son at the moment, and had just enough foam left, so I dove in and started copycatting. Please excuse me as I drivel on about the minutiae of the process...it helps me understand what I'm doing.

I zoomed in on the pic of the 18% Clark in the beginning of the thread until it was 8" on my display, taped a piece of paper to the screen and used that to trace out the pattern. I cut my 8"x4" (root x tip), 24" wide wing blocks and set up the jig. I carried the lines of the LE and TE out via two long straight edges until they met and made that my pivot point.

I remember you saying (in the Roswell build, I think) that you offset the TE of the wing jig 4" or so away from the pivot point to get a consistent TE.....but...I couldn't wrap my head around this and was worried that if I didn't have the right distance of offset, it would screw up the airfoil. Anyway...my way, parallel with the pivot point, did not end up with nice thick TE. But I think it will suffice, they came out pretty well for my first airfoil, if I do say so myself! I had to forgo the string around the TE, but will try to reinforce in another way.

Cutting the toe-in and the flat spots for stabilization was easy, but I encountered something curious cutting the sweep. I measured twice and cut on a line from the LE corner and one inch back on each wing TE. Put them together and the sweep did not appear anything like the pictures, so what the heck! Two inches each side. Now it looks right. Still scratching my head over that one... ...The wing core blocks are supposed to have a right angle at the TE center, right? Maybe I'll draw some pictures...

Here's something I can contribute...I had an epiphany (or nightmare - we'll see) about my motor mount for this bird. I couldn't exactly copy what you've modeled, but I think/hope my solution will work. Currently I don't fly combat with anybody and I don't think I can get the wife and kids to come to Utah with me , so it looks sturdy enough for my self-inflicted abuse.

Ruminating about it, I mean staring at it, for a while, it occurred to me that the wing core beds make a nice negative for the wing core positive. That is, could I make a 2 or 3" wide section of the wind core bed into a motor mount? They have the same angle, there's a nice flat spot at the back for the motor, and there's lots of surface to spread the forces out.... Well I did. I thought I'd have to use part of the L wing and part of the R, but the angles seemed acceptable using 3" of just one side. Anyhoo, it's all glued and taped together and feels as strong as others I've used and liked well enough! When I'm able, I'll post some pics...

Last edited by ATONAL6173; Jul 23, 2009 at 04:53 AM. Reason: because...
Jul 23, 2009, 10:50 AM
Lee's Avatar
I'm sorry to hear you can't move to Utah. We are one of the sunniest places on earth without all the humidity. Great place to live.

I have always encouraged people to learn to cut foam and am pleased that you are trying. Our foam cutting tutorials have more action than the threads where we discuss plane ideas. Foam cutting however takes space and a very tolerant wife. It also has a learning curve. Most people in our club who have helped cut foam still have TJ and I do it for them. There is this nasty little learning curve and the cost of the EPP makes it so miscuts add up quick.

I flew combat yesterday with the club and all but one of the combat planes flying was cut in my shop.

Look at these threads for motor mount ideas. We have 2 Pinata building tutorials where we have described several ways to build a motor mount: I was using plumbing parts most of the time before we started to have the stainless steel motor mounts machined for us.

Notice also how the planes are covered. We have always used the reinforced tape but used it under the Ultracoat covering.


As far as trailing edge. Just cut the wing it and trim the trailing edge after the cut. Even now if the blocks of foam are off even 1/8" we will have to trim the trailing edge again after the airfoil is cut.

Good Luck


PS here are some real combat planes.

Last edited by Lee; Jul 24, 2009 at 10:36 AM.
Jul 24, 2009, 10:04 AM
Lee's Avatar

We have recently had some reports of the reinforcement tape yellowing and the tape drying out and adhesive releasing over time possibly due to UV affect on the tape. We may be jumping the gun and giving an alert before we need to but I want you to know what I am hearing so that you can watch for problems.

This is a slow process and does not happen all at once and can be easily fixed so there is no immediate danger if it is happening. I need some help to accurately diagnose and come up with the best solution to fix the problem.

We have used the reinforced tape for years under Ultracoat but having it exposed to the sun may have some consequences that we did not anticipate. Please give us feedback if you start to see problems. I peeled the Ultracoat off of a flying wing that had been covered for more than 2 years to inspect the tape and the tape is fine. Paint over the tape also seems to offer some protection so we are assuming that it is a UV problem.

The plane design is sound and conventional covering methods shown in these threads will fix the problem.


So far only the exposed tape is a concern. We can cover the plane with an iron on covering like Ultracoat to eliminate the problem but we like the simplicity and weight of the bidirectional tape method.

If you see deterioration of the tape gently warm the tape with an iron and peel off the tape and replace it if you need to. It will not damage the EPP foam cores.

We are testing the tape exposed, under paint, under laminate and under ultracoat at this time trying to get more information.


Last edited by Lee; Jul 24, 2009 at 11:36 AM.
Jul 24, 2009, 06:39 PM
Womb Drifter
Phiber Optik's Avatar
WOW! What an awesome thread!!!

I'm really starting to dig the Assassin. When my swift 2 gets trashed, this looks like my next plane!
Jul 24, 2009, 06:58 PM
Registered User
Jimmi's Avatar
Its a very nice plane phiber, I got a few issues with my motor at this time and havn't put any time into as of yet. I just finished my superfly for one and thats out of the way now. I have the motor taped but looks like I'm going have to remove the tape and re tape it. Also my screws backed out some so the motor is a bit loose. Nothing serious at all but it takes time I havn't had. I have flown it twice already and until its fixed and everything is ok. then I will give my 2 cents worth. So far I'm very happy with it
Jul 24, 2009, 08:13 PM
Lee's Avatar
Don't worry about the tape until you have trouble with the tape. The plane is strong enough to fly without any tape. I have been flying mine without problems for months.

Jul 24, 2009, 09:36 PM
what is a rudder for?

DX6i Differential

Lee; Do you set up your radio for differential and if so what settings do you use?

If I understand it right, you can dial in less down throw on the ailerons than up throw. This is supposed to result in a more axial roll.

Thanks Mike
Jul 24, 2009, 10:57 PM
Hey, all you guys flying combat with the $11 MG servos from HK mentioned in the parts list (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=8610)
Have you broken horns? Found replacements? I hear that HiTech HS-50 servo horns work but want to confirm. I'd like to get something like this if they do:

If not please make a recommendation on servo savers that work with these!

Jul 25, 2009, 01:04 AM
Heli Humbled Daily
I got 4 of those servos, and the output shaft had no threads for the screws. Ended up having to tap them and install my own screws.

I have not broken any horns yet, and have no HS-50 to try, but I bet a hobby store would let you open up a pack of horns to try out.

BPhobbies now has the DElite LED system in stock. About the same price for the lights as the HC variety, but they run off of the receiver, so only gunna get a max of 5-6V power out of them.


Not going to be as bright as the HC lights, but might be an alternative for night flying.
Last edited by Telemachus; Jul 25, 2009 at 01:17 AM.
Jul 25, 2009, 01:41 AM
Registered User
Jimmi's Avatar
Lee its the tape that holds the motor down, it has some play in it and I think I need to shoot it with some adhesive so it can stick better. I will take the old tape off and redo it.
Jul 25, 2009, 09:00 AM
Lee's Avatar
More planes. I am still using tape but trying to put paint on it to block some UV.

The Roswell is a delta we used to cut that I am now playing with again but I am now trying to go finless.


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